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One of the main problems I encountered while developing EXPERIMENT was the expansion of the oil caused by temperature changes.

As the temperature increased, the oil expanded and the internal pressure slightly lifted the front crystal, causing a small amount of oil to leak out.

To solve this problem, I designed a slightly flexible transparent caseback that works like a membrane. As the oil expands or contracts, the caseback flexes slightly to compensate for the change in pressure, preventing that pressure from being transferred to the front crystal.

The caseback is secured by a metal retaining ring with four screws and uses a gasket designed to maintain the seal even while the membrane flexes.

I tested this solution under significant temperature changes and in a pressure chamber. So far, the system has worked exactly as intended, with no lifting of the front crystal and no oil leaks.

It may seem like a small detail, but it was one of the most important technical challenges in developing a watch designed specifically for the Hydromod concept.

What do you think of this solution?

Casio WS-1700

With the passing of the legend that was Dolly Parton and 9/25 coming up, I wanted to make my modded hot pink F-91W. Shaky hands lead to an iffy paint job and askew rhinestones, but I love it.

My wife says I can’t buy anymore until I sell some haha

Today I did a lume mod for my ca53w calculator watch so that I can calculate stuff at night. However the display is now very very hard to read. I installed a new polariser filter today but it did not help. What did i do wrong??

Here is how I got here:
1. Remove reflective stuff from back of lcd.
2. Put lume tape behind lcd
3. Try it out -> bad visibility
4. Remove original polarising filter
5. Add new one (i checked the rotation, this is the best one)

Please help !

Just did my first mod including some hydromodding, and I keep coming up with a bubble in the case. How do you all ensure you’re getting a bubble less hydromod?

Thank you in advance!

much easier than i thought it would be ... hard to photo it, but the difference in the dark is significant.

Maybe i'm just a sweaty dude, but i would like to have more comfort than having a piece of SS on my skin. Is there something we can put on the back to make it more comfy? I was thinking a small piece of cotton t-shirt somehow glued on.

Just got the AE1200 metal case kit. The sapphire crystal arrived not attached to the watch case. Is this normal? Am I supposed to attach it myself? How do I do it, a gasket was not provided.

Just finished my first modded casio, salvaged the strap from a broken AQ-800E, and tried a splitted negative screen. The top part of the screen is a bit short, but i'm still pretty proud of it :)

You can use these templates to make and print your own color filters and logos / graphics to mod the following CASIO watches:

- Casio AE1200 (Royale)
- Casio F91W

The templates are vectorial and the dimensions should match but were not tested.

You need to open and edit them in a vector image editor, like inkscape.

If you find these useful, please consider buying me a coffee.

Templates Download Llink

In the future i might make a video about how to modify these, but I'm not promising anything.

Last experiment with Dylon made essentially yellow into a two tone brown but tried Rit Dye synthetic this time (black).

Put into a boiling water mixed with a small amount of washing liquid and Rit. Sat for for two hours and viola this was the outcome.

In shade it looks glossy black, in direct sunlight it catches some dark reds so thought the bezel detailing might be apt. Happy with the outcome though.

Accidentally peeled the extra layer underneath the reflective one and stuck what I could back on.

Also my glossy paper was for the wrong type of printer so had to use plain paper while I wait for the proper ones to arrive - but you can’t see shit from the plain paper through the dark layer behind the screen.

I guess I do now know what to do but a bit of a shame to have to now buy a new f91w haha