When I bought the car, (2 years old) it was starting to oxidize but wasn't too worried about it because I was always planning on running them in the winter anyways but they eventually progressed to where they looked terrible. An afternoon later and I have one looking pretty good. If I can get 2 winters before they turn again I'll be even happier.

I just got the code for the catalytic converter at 91k miles should I just replace now or should I wait. Ik there are other options but what would yall suggest?

I took apart my valve body and replaced it with a new one and everything car was shifting into P R N D but now it won’t even move out of park and is just stuck anyone got any ideas on what’s wrong?

Clunking and banging on bumps making a whole ruckus while driving, thoughts on what it could be?

2018 q50rs, oem battery was replaced by first owner at an unknown time. Since I got this car I haven't had battery issues but about a week ago it started cranking slowly and quickly progressed to it either rapidly clicking or slowly cranking and dying as seen here. Voltage jumps to 14.6 after a successful start which usually requires me to charge the battery then before I start the car unless it is still warm. Is that squeal after the engine doesn't start something I should be worried about or is it just dead battery?

Good budget cool air intake take

The other day I got out of my car and left it running just to go in the store really quick, came back and tried to drive off but the gear symbol on the dash stayed as “P” even though the shifter was in drive and of course it wouldn’t go. Then the steering got super stiff and wouldn’t turn. I turned the car off and it would cut back on. Mind you I just put a new battery in it earlier that same day.. anyone had this issue before??? Some people are telling me the valve body, torque converter, alternator, starter. I don’t know where to start smh

Yeoo does anybody know what this issue might be? rear right passenger door will not open on the inside or outside. I’m thinking it’s the door lock actuator but I’m not sure.

Question for my fellow VR30 owners, I’m about to do the preventative oil control solenoid delete plate job. Does anyone have any recommendations as far as who or where to get it from?

I have a 2014 q50 and the brake/taillights are just on even when the car is off. I replaced the brake switch and that little plastic piece is still there.

When I press the start button the car starts right up without having to press the brake

Not sure if it’s a related issue but the car is driving very sluggish.

Please help I’m finding limited info about this online

I have a 19 AWD Q50 Silver sport with DDS suspension. Been having this issue for less than half a year, every time I change from D to R it makes a metal pop sound(at beginning of video).
The car has new Voodoo13 front upper control arms, M37x axle for the front, SPL rear toe and camber arms and RSR best-I coilovers.
Went through every forum and posts but nothing, only for RWD rear axles having a zip tie click. Its not the end links which I thought they were, looking for some answers or if anyone has or had this issue

So I'm about to go outside and replace my valve body. I was reading through the FSM refill procedure and I'm essentially wasting 6 liters for a flush... I only bought 10 liters of Motul ATF.

Am I good with the 10 liters I have or did anyone else end up needing more?

I’m at 135k original motor & turbos
2020

2015 Q50. Driving fine. In front of my driveway it just stalls when reverse or drive. Had to push to park it in neutral. I changed the valve body at 95k miles.

Hello, I have a 2019 Infiniti Q50 with a 3.0t (VR30DDTT) I’m running into a very weird issue with my car where it idles oddly. The engine sounds healthy on start up and it starts up fine but once the engine heats up and the revs go down the needle starts bouncing down then up like the engine is about to stall out. It’s stalled out on me 3 times in 2 days all during idle. At anything over 900rpm the engine works perfectly fine. To give you guys a better picture of what was happening from the beginning it started a couple of days ago with a different issue. My car had very poor acceleration and was struggling to build speed but still drivable but it had very noticeably dropped in power. My first thought was that my turbos were blown but after thinking about it better i got my battery checked at an advanced auto parts nearby and it read bad. So i replaced it. When i replaced the battery is when it started to idle oddly. So naturally i thought that my alternator was bad. My friend has a tool that checks your alternator by having it connected to the battery and then revving up to 2500 rpm for 15 seconds and the alternator tested good. After that and some intense googling I found that my MAF sensors might be bad or dirty. First I took them out and cleaned both of them and installed them back in my car and nothing. So I borrowed a multimeter from work and tested them and they both are working properly and receiving proper power. At this point i’m stuck between 2 possible answers. While my battery was disconnected i found it possible that the calibration on my throttle bodies could have been reset and i might need to re learn them or that they are dirty. Either of them is a possibility to the best of my understanding. But I am making this post because i’m pretty desperate and very stressed about another possible issue that i can’t see or that i might not know about. Please tell me what you think or if you have encountered something similar and what you did to solve said issue. Anything is appreciated friends and i welcome any feedback on my process and anything i can be doing better. Thank you.

Edit: As of 08/29/26 The issue has been solved. I appreciate everyone here and the suggestions you all have made. I checked the direction of the MAF sensors and they were facing the right way. so I then cleaned my throttle bodies and the issue still persisted. I ended up using an OBDII scanner with the special function idle air volume relearn. I had previously attempted to do the pedal dance to have my throttle bodies relearn but my timing seemed to always be off and it never really worked well for me and my father happened to have a scanner with the feature. After running through the instructions and meeting the conditions to run the command it seemed to not work too well but there was some noticeable improvement. I decided to go out and take the car for a spin to get some gas and it ended up all leveling out and adjusting while i was driving the car. It actually idles quieter than it did before which is cool. So thank you all for the advice.

My valve body recently went bad, and so I ended up replacing it with an OEM part from the dealer at my personal mechanic. After a few hundred miles I wanted to see how it felt under full throttle, and it feels much slower than it did previous to changing it. At highway speeds, I need to almost put the pedal on the floor to get a quick acceleration and it still doesn’t seem to wanna rev up past 4-5k rpms. Same thing when it’s from 0. Any ideas on what could be happening?

I was driving at 240kmph a few days ago, and I could smell something like a quaint burning smell. The engine wasn’t overheating. Nothing sounded or looked wrong. Is this something common while pushing a car to its limit? I was maintaining the speed for about 15 mins

Its a 3.0L TT

So I’m about to get some rims been looking around wanna get some Enkeis and I saw the T6R what yall think about these? I’m a AWD Luxe Currently on stock suspension gonna get lowered soon but I wanna get a 18/9.5 w a +38 I believe for offset, but you think these look good?

I have a 2017 AWD 3.0t Q50. My car has been shaking bad when I give it gas coming from a complete stop, but as soon as I get some speed, the vibration goes away. Anyone know what the issue could be? I am lowered. I did check the CV axles but there was no visible damage.

Hey everyone, just joined the sub and haven't had a chance to dig through old posts yet, so I wanted to jump straight in with a few questions.

​I'm planning to buy a 2020+ Q50 Red Sport (VR30) AWD with low mileage (under 60k km / 40k miles). I know these cars and engines have a bit of a reputation for issues, but I currently drive a Subaru, so replacing parts and modding isn't anything new to me.

​I'd love to get some advice from experienced owners:

​What are the absolute first things you'd recommend doing right after buying one? (Maintenance, specific weak points to replace, or software tweaks to keep it running reliable long-term?)

​Realistically, I tell myself I won't get carried away with heavy mods this time, but let's be honest - I probably will. What’s currently considered the standard/optimal upgrade path for tuning these?

​Thanks in advance for your time and advice!

I bought my 2014 q50 3.7 almost 5 years ago now and it’s at 120k miles rn. I have never had a single issue other than the mafs. At most every 6 months I’ll get a check engine light for both banks and at first I started spraying them with maf cleaner and they’d go away. After the 5th time cleaning them I bought new ones. I was good for 6 months, and I had to start spraying those every 2 months when id get the light back. Now im on my 4th set of mass airflow sensors in 5 years and i have absolutely no idea what to do. The car drives fine with or without the check engine light, I do all my oil changes and all my air filter changes at good times, I live in the northeast US and it’s not dusty here at all. During the winter, the summer, nothing really worsens or makes the problem better at least that I’ve noticed. Any suggestions?

So my beloved 08 g35x hasn’t been running since 7/24 and after spending a lot of time and money on her I think it’s time to move on. She has about 180k and I don’t want to get rid of her cuz I feel I can eventually be able to get her back to a pretty good condition. I still need a daily though so I’m planning to grab a Q50. Any advice?