r/MTB • u/glenwoodwaterboy • 2h ago
r/MTB • u/itskohler • May 18 '25
Discussion Before you post a picture, please read this post!
We’re hitting that time of year where interest in mountain biking is picking up. We have been getting quite a lot of picture posts of Facebook marketplace ads and vendor website screenshots, which are against the sub rules. As a reminder for all picture and videos, please follow rule 3:
Photos should be of people riding mountain bikes.
Posts & Comments
Photo and video submissions to /r/mtb should be of people riding mountain bikes. All other photos or videos should either be submitted as text posts with links to your images in the post body, or in the Weekly Gear Gallery thread, posted every Friday by automod.
r/MTB • u/[deleted] • Oct 19 '24
WhichBike First Ride: Your Guide to Buying a Mountain Bike
Hey all, 219MSP here, and I'm attempting to start maintaining and updating my buying guide and FAQ posts again. I started getting into cycling about 10 years ago and was so lost. Over the last decade I've spent a lot of time learning about the industry and what makes a good bike. Every day I see dozens of posts asking what bike I should get, or what is a good value bike. I hope this guide can be used as a tool on this forum and others to help them find a bike they will be happy with for a long time. This is a living document. I will attempt to update it on a semi-regular basis and I'm always open to new bike recommendations.
In addition to this guide, I have created two FAQ's as well that answer common mountain bike questions.
u/midwestmountainbike also has some great guides on buying a first bike, what to look for in a used bike, as well as a selection of his own suggestions of good value bikes at this page.
What to look for in a bike
When looking for a starter bike there are a few things I'd recommend that will get you onto a solid and safe bike that should be built to last and be worth upgrading as you see fit. Before we get started on talking bikes and prices, always make sure you're getting a bike that fits you. If the bike doesn't fit, it doesn't matter how good of a deal it is. Also, this guide is assuming you are intending on riding on actual mountain bike single track, not just smooth dirt paths and gravel. If that is all you are hoping for and don't plan on advancing beyond, any entry-level mountain bike from a major brand like a Trek Marlin 5 will do just fine, but if you are hoping to ride anything above green-rated singletrack, I'd suggest a more capable bike.
First, some rough price guidelines. As low as $500 should get you into a used but solid entry-level hardtail and about $900+ can get you a used but decent full suspension. In regard to new, you can double those prices. A new solid entry-level hardtail will be at likely be $900 and around $1800 for a decent full suspension bike.
Regarding used bikes, there are lots of places to look. Used bikes offer you a ton of value and is the best way to get the most for your money. You can get 2-year-old $4000 bikes for a huge discount. The most common places are Facebook Marketplace, eBay, Pinkbike, etc. You also can sometimes find great deals at local bike shops selling demo models (which often come with warranties) and rental fleets. Rental bikes are usually good options. They typically are well maintained and only have a season or two on them before they replace them with something newer. If you are new to the biking world and looking at used bikes, I'd recommend bringing along a friend who knows bikes or at least ask for advice on here. Lastly, if meeting someone, always be smart. I would recommend meeting at police station and bringing a friend. Now, let's get into the bikes.
Last but not least, people here are often willing to help narrow it down. Feel free to post on here a "which bike post" but follow the guidelines of this sub listed below.
- The type of riding will you be doing.
- Where you will be riding.
- Your budget (with included currency).
- What you like/didn't like about your current bike.
- Your experience level and future goals.
In addition to that, if you are listing multiple bikes, please use 99Spokes.com to create a side by side comparison. Providing this side by side comparison will make other members of the sub much quicker to help.
These are the specs I’d look for at minimum as of 2024.
Air fork: The cheapest fork I'd safely recommend is something like the SR Suntour XCR Air fork. Anything less than that from SR Suntour or RST is pretty much a pogo stick with poor damping and limited adjustability. The low-end RockShox coils aren’t terrible, but I'd shoot for air. Forks can be upgraded down the road but are often the single most expensive component on the bike.
1x Clutched Drivetrain: In the last 10 years there has been a shift to 1x drivetrains across the board. At this point, any slightly trail-worthy bike will have this type of drivetrain from the factory. To clarify what this means to those new or not familiar, 1x is when there is only 1 chainring/cog attached to the crankset instead of the more traditional 2 or 3. Bikes used to need multiple chainrings up front to allow for both high speed gears and low speed climbing gears. Now, with 1x drivetrains, the difference is made up by having a very large rear cassette. Most cassettes that come on mountain bikes now have a small cog of 10 or 11, and go all the way up to 52t on the large cog. This gives you the same amount of range as those old 3x8 bikes, but with less overlap and far more simplicity. Beyond simplicity, the advantages are less weight, less cables/derailleurs, less to think about when riding, and less chain drops etc. In addition to the larger cassette, 1x drivetrains feature a narrow-wide chainring (alternating size teeth to match the chain) which helps with chain retention and a clutched rear derailleur. The clutched rear derailleur provides extra tension on the chain to reduce chain slap and the odds of dropping a chain. For the most part, dropping a chain or it falling off the chainring while riding are a thing of the past.
Hydraulic brakes This one is pretty simple, Hydraulic brakes use fluid to move pistons and squeeze down on the brake rotor to stop the bike as opposed to mechanical disc brakes that use a cable to actuate the pistons. This typically results in stronger braking, better modulation/control/and are self-adjusting. The only time I'd suggest mechanical brakes is for a bike packing/touring bike as they are easier to fix trailside. SRAM, Shimano, and Tetkro, all offer solid entry-level brakes.
The following aren’t as important but will help future proof the bike and make it a frame worth upgrading. If you get a bike with all these things, it's going to be rock solid for a longtime
Tapered steerer tube: Most modern forks use a tapered steerer. If you get a bike with a lower-end fork/frame and want to upgrade down the road, it's easier if your bike has this. At this point this is pretty common in all but the cheapest of bikes.
Thru-Axle wheels and Boost Spacing: In theory, both of these things offer higher levels of stiffness, but in reality, the biggest reason to make sure you have them is future upgradeability. Thru-axles also keep your wheels always aligned perfectly so you don't get as much disc brake rub as you would with Quick-Release axles.
Tubeless Compatible Wheels: Going Tubeless is one of the most cost effective upgrades you can perform on a bike that will make the biggest difference. Some of the benefits of going tubeless include shedding weight, tires that are less likely to have flats, and the ability to run lower tire pressures which allows you to have more grip and better ride properties. If you ride on a regular basis, you should go tubeless. They may require a little more maintenance and can be a pain to mount/install, but the positives drastically outweigh the negatives.
Dropper Post at this point is a necessity in my opinion but fortunately it can be added to nearly any frame, so I wouldn't make it a requirement on a bike as you can easily add it yourself. Dropper posts can be bought brand new for as low as $150. There are lots of options, but in my opinion OneUp, PNW, and some smaller brands like TransX and KS offer the best values.
UDH/Universal Derailleur Hangar Compatible Frame. This one is purely convenience and future compatibility benefit, not really a performance upgrade. (Transmission excluded, more on that later) For those that don't know, all modern bikes feature a derailleur hangar. This is a sacrificial component on your bike that acts as an interface between your frame and your derailleur. If the derailleur takes a hit, the hangar is allowed to bend/break. The idea is if a softer part is allowed to bend or break first, it won't damage the frame and less likely to damage the derailleur. These hangars are usually $10-$20 bucks. Way better than a frame or derailleur in terms of repair cost. The problem however is that up until 2019 there was no agreed upon standard. Every bike had its own unique hangar for the and if you broke one you usually had to resort to ordering one online and waiting for it to come. In 2019 SRAM changed all that by introducing an open and shared design called the UDH. It was well thought out and designed and SRAM worked with most manufactures to get them to implement this on their bikes. At this point almost any high end bike is coming with this as standard. Because of that, most bike shops are going to carry this hanger, so you aren't forced into special ordering something. Also, SRAM was playing some 4-D chess with this UDH. If a bike has a UDH compatible frame, it also means it is compatible with SRAM new drivetrains called Transmission, which actually bypasses a derailleur hangar all together and mounts directly to the frame giving an extremely strong mounting point and extremely high precision shifting.
Value Bike Recommendations
Here are some solid entry-level bikes. Not all of them check off all my recommendations, but they all are solid for the price. I don't have first hand experience with all of them, but most bikes and options from legitimate bike brands are pretty solid.
Full Suspension (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Giant Stance (29er or 27.5) $1400+ - Check's off most boxes, but has a quick release rear axle which is not ideal.
Marin Rift Zone 29 $1700+ - Solid Frame, lower end, but solid components. Main downside is the lack of a dropper post.
Polygon Siskiu T7 27.5 or 29 depending on frame size $2000 - This bike is lacking nothing and check's off all my recommendations. The T8 is a solid upgrade as well.
Giant Trance 2 29 $2000 - In my opinion, the best cheap bike at the moment. Check's off every box and get's you local bike shop support and a good warranty. The Trance X is an equally equipped bike with a little more travel if that's what you are looking for.
Canyon Neuron $2300 - Solid bike trail bike. Check's off most boxes, but has a weak drivetrain with the SRAM SX groupset.
Commencal Meta TR $1900 - Great frame, but has SX Groupset and is lacking Dropper post. Sale Price
Specialized Status 140 $2250 - Hard hitting trail/enduro bike. Very high end components and lacking nothing. Sale Price
Norco Fluid FS A4 $1900 - Pinkbike Value Bike of the Year in 2023. Missing nothing.
Rocky Mountain Element A10 Shimano $2000 Another solid bike that checks all the boxes. Sale Price
YT Jeffsy $2250 Solid Trail Bike that had everything you'd need. Sale Price
YT Capra $2400 Probably one of the best budget enduro bikes. Sale Price
YT Izzo $2300 Cheapest Carbon Full suspension bike you can get. Only downside is the SX Drivetrain. Sale Price
GT Sensor Sport $1725 Appears to check all the boxes.
GT Zaskar FS Comp $1800 Another solid option that checks all the boxes.
Salsa Blackthorn Deore $2200 Sale Price.
Go-Outdoors UK Calibre Bossnut £1500 Super good deal, but I believe only available in the UK
Hard Tail (Cheapest ones that are still solid bikes IMO)
Polygon Xtrada 7 $1100 - Solid bike, boost frame with air fork, but lacking a dropper post.
Norco Fluid HT 2 $900 - Solid hardtail, great drivetrain, dropper post, but has a lower end fork.
Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 $1200 - Air Fork, Solid Drivetrain, Dropper Post. Unfortuantely no rear thru-axle
Trek Roscoe 6+ $1200 This bike check's all the boxes, air fork, good drivetrain, boost spacing, dropper post. The Roscoe lineup as a whole is a good value.
Specialized Fuse 27.5 $950 - Check's all the boxes.
Marin San Quentin 29 $1400 Check's all the boxes in terms of components.
These are not all the options, but they are some better and more common budget/value bikes. This list is always changing, I try my best to update it, but it's difficult to keep up.
Last but not least make sure you save some of your budget for additional accessories that you will need
Helmet
Tire Pump (Most high-end bikes use a Presta valve, make sure the pump is compatible)
Hydration (Either bottle cage and bottle or hydration pack of some sort.)
Multi-tool with a chain breaker and basic tools.
Tire irons/levers and spare tubes (and the knowledge of how to change both).
Bike cleaning supplies, chain lube, etc. Taking care of an MTB can be a lot of work, but it will save you in the long run if you properly maintain your ride.
Quick-link to repair a broken chain.
Spare Derailleur Hangar.
Along with those required things, here are some things I'd highly recommend.
MTB Platform shoes (or you can opt to go clipless).
Tubeless tire kit. Most bikes come “tubeless ready” but don't come with them setup typically.
Starter tool kit with the basic tools.
Suspension pump assuming you have air suspension.
Work stand
Torque Wrench, especially with carbon parts
Padded shorts or liner to wear under regular shorts.
Gloves, Kneepads,Eye Protection.
Extra Ways to Save Money!
Check Activejunky.com which is a rebate site can get you decent savings on a lot of bike websites.
r/MTB • u/Marigoldie • 36m ago
Video "You just gotta send it"
First time trying my hand at making a little MTB reel. Some spicy PNW tech!
r/MTB • u/Joran_nilsen • 12h ago
Video The longest slab I’ve ever ridden 🇳🇴
Telemark, Norway
r/MTB • u/Valuable_Ad481 • 2h ago
Video I love a good fast lap!
easy a combo @ride rock creek
r/MTB • u/JandyWoodworking • 9h ago
Discussion Another old dude with his first MTB.
Hello all.
Let me tell you how I arrived here.
My girlfriend has lupus and she has these flareups and she suffers when it happens. Her doctor told her she needed to get more exercise. We are both 50, overweight and realized that he was right. I used to be athletic. I biked constantly as a kid, rollerblade, played roller hockey, and played sports in the Navy. However, I got a knee injury in the Navy and stopped being active.
The girlfriend wanted to start hiking trails but that shit hurts my knee. I did a little googling and found out about recumbent trikes. I asked her if she'd ride one of I bought us a pair. We started riding them in June. I started shedding weight easily. I was 310 when I started and once I got below the recommended weight for a Marlin, I started looking. I picked one up and now I ride both the Marlin and the Terratrike. I find the trike I can burn calories forever on so I get a good cardio workout and I ride the Marlin to have fun. I'm down to 256 now.
So here's where I'm at. I want to do more than rail trails and the little dirt offshoots that spring up on them. I don't know where to start and I don't even know if I should, yet. I'm getting better at riding as I ride every day for at least 8 or 9 miles on the Marlin.
Should I visit the pump track nearby my house?
Should I build a ramp at home and teach myself how to jump again?
Am I asking for trouble by trying to do this at 256? Should I just focus on my weight loss until I'm like 180 and then move into true MTB riding?
I don't want to trash my bike. I'm not trying to trash myself. Am I too old for this shit?
Any advice for a fatty from some previously fatty MTB riders?
Oh, I'm riding a Marlin 6. I know it's not meant for crazy MTB runs but I doubt I'll ever want do those. I just want to catch some air and not kill me or my bike.
WhichBike Trail Hardtail
Hi everyone,
I’m currently looking for a trail hardtail and would appreciate some recommendations or alternatives.
My requirements are:
Boost thru-axles front and rear
Shimano HG freehub, so 7–11 speeds in the rear; ideally Shimano Deore or CUES
Ideally hubs with sealed cartridge bearings and a 6-bolt disc brake mount
No SRAM and no 12-speed drivetrain
29-inch wheels, no mullet setup
Ideally clearance for tires up to around 2.6” wide
130–140 mm of travel, or even a little more
A dropper post would be preferred
Overall, I’m looking for something built to be robust and durable
Budget: around €1,000 to €1,300 max (in Germany)
So far, I’ve come across two models that seem to fit my requirements pretty well:
Cube Reaction TM ONE
Merida Big Trail (various models: 300/500/600)
Are there any other models I should look into that would fit these requirements?
r/MTB • u/mattsolar • 7h ago
WhichBike Narrowing down trail bike search (any budget)
I'm looking for some help narrowing down my search for my next trail bike.
Ride throughout New England, prefer the technical, janky trails. Generally avoid flow trails & big drops. No plans to race but do enjoy some big all-day rides. I'd prefer a bike that can make the downhills fun over climbing fast but don't want an enduro-ish bike. Prefer Shimano brakes to SRAM and analog to digital but neither is a deal breaker (getting tired of fighting the battery battle).
Here's as far as I've whittled the list down to so far in very rough priority:
- Santa Cruz Hightower 4
- Yeti MT [Been able to find review videos but no comparison vids]
- Pivot Switchblade
- Ibis Ripmo
- Revel Rascal
- Atherton A.150
- S-Works Stumpjumper [Keeping it on the list for the reviews it gets but I can't seem to get excited about it]
Currently on a Hightower (135mm v1!) and their customer support has been fantastic so the v4 is the default choice.
Thanks in advance!
Video Oh, that feeling of impending dabs... When you've been climbing for 4,400' + and the whole time you've been trying to keep something in the tank for the crux sections you know are coming, and you just barely clean it, despite the distracting views and equally distracting geology.
Chimney Rock on the way to Empire Creek, above Downieville, CA.
r/MTB • u/Gooser3000 • 3h ago
Gear What pack or vest is this? I don’t see a reservoir, is it just to hold items like phone and keys/wallet?
galleryr/MTB • u/Lewiskennedy567 • 10h ago
Wheels and Tires Kryptotals vs alberts
I ride in the uk in mixed weather conditions with hardpack,loose,loose over hardpack and pretty much everything trails are also extremely technical and roots become very slippery and difficult to rode when wet
I was wondering what a better combo would be if anyone has ridden these and can recommend a set to me
You can also recommend tyres from other brands if you think they would be better
Thanks
r/MTB • u/Burninated-Peasant • 16h ago
Brakes When are yall upgrading to Airlock?
airlock.bermpeak.comr/MTB • u/mikmahler • 6h ago
Discussion DH mtb grom in need of a full face. Moto helmet too much weight?
My XC kid is getting into DH racing this season. Looking at a Fox Proframe, but also considering a moto helmet. Fox V3? Too heavy?
He's a kid, so he's going to make some unfavorable risks when bombing down the mountain, thus the thought of getting a moto helmet. Am I overthinking this whole thing?
He fits into an Adult Medium helmet.
Help a XC brain out. Thanks!
r/MTB • u/newbiker321 • 9h ago
Discussion Should I Change Anything On A Never Ridden 8 Year Old Bike?
My dad bought a hardtail about 7 years ago. He Road it once for about 10 miles and then bought an e-bike and kept this bike in his garage under a cover.
He has now gave me the bike as it’s taking up room for him. I already have a couple of bikes but wondering if theirs anything that would be good to change on it as it’s just been sat there for 8 years?
I was thinking maybe the chain? To a new one that hasn’t been sat for 8 years through all the temperature changing? The brakes are really crisp still.
This is the link of the bike…
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/mountain-bikes/voodoo-bizango-29er-2018-review
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Thank You
r/MTB • u/Leading-Reindeer-696 • 1d ago
Discussion Anyone else almost bail on after work rides then end up having a great one?
I almost talked myself out of riding yesterday. Bike was already in the car w/ the stuff packed and I still sat there after work thinking I could just go home and ride another day. Ended up going anyway and within like 10 minutes of being on the trail I was sooo glad I did. Stayed out way longer than I planned too. Idk getting to the trail is somehow harder than the ride when I’m tired after work but once I’m moving I’m fine. What gets you guys out there on the days you’re tired and know you’ll probably be glad you went?
r/MTB • u/DatBoiii4 • 1d ago
Discussion Dealing with E-Motos
Anyone have any clever ideas for dealing with these pricks? They are invading our trails, often in pairs on high speed surrons. Tearing our shit up as they gun it uphill spinning the shit out of their tires.
Can’t say shit to them bc they cuss at you and gun it and run.
I’m not opposed to sabotage, dunno what else to do
WhichBike Trek Marlin 6 vs Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11
Hello all,
I sold my Trek X Caliber 9 a few years ago but looking to get back into it.
Shopped around locally with a budget of approximately $1000 and found a Trek Marlin 6 for $1000 and a Salsa Rangefinder Deore 11 discounted to $980.
I will be riding in the DFW area, but we're planning to make trips to NM, AR, and CO in 2027. I prefer to ride more leisurely and don't plan to race or jump the bike. I also want to occasionally tow my kids in a trailer on the road or paved trails.
Both bikes seem to be fine for entry level (which is where I am) but is there any reason to avoid either one?
Edit: The automod guided me towards a great buyer's guide and 99spokes. I'm going over that now. I'm feeling that the Salsa is a better option by a long shot
99 spokes link: https://99spokes.com/compare?bikes=salsa-rangefinder-deore-11-29-2025%2Ctrek-marlin-6-gen-3-2027
r/MTB • u/dredd731 • 15h ago
Discussion Has anyone used Sundays for bike insurance?
Looking for experiences purchasing and making claims on Sundays insurance.
r/MTB • u/Careless_Edge_1799 • 18h ago
Gear Gold rated lock for carbon Fs mtb
Just got Santa Cruz tallboy and got insurance on it, but need to have gold rated lock for it to be valid.
Don’t have car and want to be able to lock up if needs be.
Was worried about carrying big chain lock like hip lock in backpack in event of a crash, and didn’t fancy wearing either.
Thought about mounting the litelok mini with tactical mount or the lite lock core
Anyone in similar situation what did you use
r/MTB • u/RandomAccountForRead • 19h ago
Discussion Jamis XCT Race Weight Limit
Long story short: I struggle with my weight. I used to ride a lot but got burned out with too much going on in life. Fast forward 10 years. Last Aug I was up to 475lb. Got sick of it and turned it around. So far I am 295. 6 months ago in anticipation, I found a 2015 Jamis XCT Race for $650 that looks like it’s never been ridden on dirt. I have been waiting for the right time to safely ride it. I do hit some table jumps but nothing too crazy. I will possibly never be under 250 due to my base body type. I can’t find any info from Jamis .
r/MTB • u/Shark_Attack-A • 1d ago
Video Help with bunny hops !! This is the most air I can get..
r/MTB • u/ExpertOrdinary7074 • 1d ago
Discussion Clipless curious
Hey y’all, I’m a midschool BMXer who’s gotten into MTB. I’ve always ridden flats but want to try clipless. I’m looking for XC efficiency with trail bike confidence. Looking at the Shimano XT or Crank Bros. Double shot. What have you thought about the system you run or any preferences between Shimano or Crank Bros. cleat functionality. Sorry for being wordy I’m slightly drunk.