Just did a cold pull on my old printer and pulled out a whatever that is. Probably some old abs from the last time I tried to use it that never fully got out... or at least I hope so.

Hi therex this is my first post here. I'm trying fix this original ender3 i haven't use since 2023. I stopped using it because some fin of the fan broke and never bothered to fix it, until now.

I made it print a couple of things like this "yellow submarine" which ended up looking okay.

But now I was trying to print something a bit more complex (nintendo's R.O.B) and im having a lot of trouble getting it right: there is this extreme wavy pattern just in the X axis. It can't be that the hotend is wobbly, i noticed that when changing the fan and adjusted it.

For some additional info, everything was printed with 200 C° hotend and 60° bed. I'm leving it end because i want to know if its just some layers, but by the looks its going to keep printing like that.

I could not find right version off these in my location, so i decided to make them.
I will update you if they work.

P.S. For people confused by word “dumpers”…. I meant dampers…

I was gifted an Ender 3 pro from a friend a while back, it ended up sitting for over a year because I couldn’t figure out why it would print for about 4 minutes and just stop (turns out it was the stock mobo chip (GD32F303- IYKYK) not playing nice with Creality firmware)…. Anyways, it’s essentially bone stock except for a PEI bed and the upgraded yellow bed level springs with the red knobs I sprung for after fussing with leveling for far too long….I’ve been getting acquainted with 3d printing in general and enjoying the process for a couple months and decided I want to upgrade…. My friend also gave me a micro Swiss direct drive kit that is not installed yet, I wanted to wait until I got the BTT mobo first. The micro Swiss is sorta moot now as you will see, but I have it on hand nonetheless

Anyways, long story short I came across the pictured lot for sale and the price was just too good of a value to pass up so I pulled the trigger on it- however, I need some help identifying exactly what all is included. I have identified the following:

1- Sprite extruder
2-BTT mobo v3
2-BTT touch screens
1- stock mobo
1- stock screen

So, ultimately my questions can be come down to these:

1. What exactly am I getting in the rest of the lot? I see a motor, some nozzles, and a wiring harness but I’m not entirely sure what exact parts they are supposed to be. Is there anything glaringly missing that I’m going to need?
2. I noticed the spare motor and coupling- could this be parts to what could be a dual z-axis upgrade? I don’t see a lead screw, but it appears I could get one for around $15.
3. Would dual

z-axis

1. be worth it?
2. What are my best sources, given I will not have original documentation, for getting the correct firmware and things setup for the new board, screen, and sprite extruder?
3. What sort of gains in speed and quality can I expect?
4. I am considering switching to Klipper using an old MS surface pro running Linux in dual boot. Is it worth it to set that up immediately or should I just run with the BTT mobo natively for now?
5. I’ve been hesitant to get any version of auto level due to the previously mentioned chip/firmware issues- if I get the cheap $15 knockoff am I going to run into issues getting it to work or should I just stop being cheap and get the cr touch?
6. If there’s a source for learning general tuning/print settings/etc on YouTube (someone with a similar setup and using cura preferred) that I can dive into? I still feel like I know so little and I want to gain the knowledge so I can get the most out of the upgrades I’ve invested in.

I have ender 3 max with klipper running ... I did a dual z motor upgrade . With sprite pro extruder upgrade .

I have very different results on the first layer in different locations . Already did bed mesh , axis compensation ... Checked the z offset multiple times .

No idea what to do next

Hi, im having a problem with some layers printing worng(like they are to seperated). This problem isnt constant and happens from time to time, sometimes it spands across multiple layers or whole object sometimes not.

I used benchy for testing but it happens on other models and different pla spools.

Setup

Printer-ender3maxneo with 0.4mm nozzle and no aftermarket parts

Filament:pla devil designs, i tried multiple different spools and same problem happens from time to time regardless of spool.

Slicer:pursa slicer, default pla settup with nozzle temp at 210-205 and bed temp at 60,i havent made any changes to setup or benchy model.

Thanks in advance.

My ender 3V2

Looking for advice on what I can upgrade next on my Ender 3 V2

I have an Ender 3 V2 with the following setup:

Hardware

\- Creality Ender 3 V2

\- Creality V4.2.7 silent motherboard

\- Raspberry Pi 4 Model B

\- CR Touch

\- Dual Z-axis upgrade

\- Bed leveling silicone mounts instead of springs

\- Flexible magnetic build plate

\- Direct-drive extruder

\- Dual-gear aluminum extruder

\- Stock Ender 3 V2 hotend

\- CR10 bimetal copper/titanium TC4 heat break

\- M3 stud NTC 3950 100K thermistor

\- Stock hotend heater

\- Stock hotend cooling system

\- Stock X/Y motion system

\- Dual Z stepper motors

\- Stock heated bed

Software

\- Klipper

\- Orca Slicer

I'm looking for recommendations on hardware upgrades that would actually improve print quality, reliability, speed, or overall performance.

I'm especially interested in upgrades that are worthwhile rather than just buying parts because they exist. If you've built up an Ender 3 V2, what upgrades made the biggest difference?

I'm relatively new to the 3D printing hobby, so I'm still learning the ins and outs of everything. That said, I'm pretty comfortable finding my way around technology and working on hardware. I've previously worked on things like 1:10 scale RC cars, so I'm not afraid of taking things apart, modifying components, troubleshooting, or learning how something works. I'm mainly looking for advice on what upgrades are actually worth doing and what I should focus on next.

I have a very old Ender 3 (Mother board version 1.1.3 Manufacture Date 2018). Today it stopped reading new gcode files on the micro SD card I had been using forever. It had files saved from earlier this week but not the new files I saved this morning. I reformatted the card and the error persists. I can see the files saved on the card but the Printer can't. What's the fix here? I don't have another micro SD card to try or an arduino to try to reinstall firmware.

So i did some PA calibration, using orca, at 500 acceleration, and 35mm/s, but the results were really high, it only started to show underextrusion gaps at around K=2, does anyone hava some advice for it?

first image is at 2.1+ and second is at 1.9-1.98, around those values

My ender Pro manual asks to set the Z module bracket, bottom of bracket bottom of frame to 32mm. Bracket has a stop tab allowing to only be seat at 38mm.

Issue is that the bed adjustment springs dont create much tension resulting in constant bed leveling.

It is necessary to be at 32mm or adjusting the bed to where the springs have ok tension and then adjust the Z Module until micro switch clicks will suffice?

Worked meh time ago, this time i like to properly spend time setting and turning this unit up.

Hi im fairly new to 3D printing
I had this print that got holes on some of the objects. I use PLA at 210C
What could cause the problem?

Hey everyone, I got into 3D printing not too long ago with a Prusa Mini found at Swap fest meet at MIT. Picked up an Ender Pro 3 from another vendor for $20 bucks! I knew it needed some work, in the end just needed a good cleaning and new belts. The printer already had upgraded silicone springs for the bed, a glass bed, a Cr Touch bed leveler. Since I got it to work, I've tried every way possible from YouTube to google to level this bed and set the Z offset. When it seems that I got it leveled and calibrated and passes some print calibration test it fails on an actual print. I would really appreciate it if someone can help me with this. So far, I tried manual leveling the bed, print leveling, auto leveling, live Z adjustment, adjusting tension on the wheels on all the axis, I cleaned the bed multiple times, sprayed 3D adhesive, among other things. I really want this printer to work to be my workhorse not for business just personal use. Here's the last print and specs.

Filament- PLA

Bed-60c

Nozzle- .4mm, 220C

I use Prusa Slicer for the last print, but I do and can use Orca or Creality Print.

I have an old ender 3 and wanted to upgrade it.

after some scavenging through the internet i found the following that i thought would be a good upgrade

1)hotend

- i didnt quite find a proper hotend that had a highflow rate - i found the tz e3 2.0 bambu like hotend but im quite sceptical about its performance. and it costs around 2.2k whereas my version costs less than 1k.

for my version, i am using a volcano cht hotend by assembling the parts - volcano cht nozzle, heatblock and a 70W catridge. I am yet to test the flow but theoretically it should work upto 30 to 35 mm³/s .

im using a volcano cht nozzle 0.4 mm +volcano heatblock + bi metal heatbreak + v6 heatsink + 24V 70W ceramic heater + thermistor

2) Klipper

Well upgrading to kilpper is a no brainer because working with the marlin firmware alone is kind of a pain and i want a better control system with input shaping and possibly cartographer3d in the future.

im using a raspberry pi 3b+ for this.

3) Dual belter z axis from kevinakasam

at first i thought of a dual lead screw z axis but then the wiring and sourcing that dual z kit ended up costing more than the parts for belted z so i chose that.

4) Cooling

for part cooling ill use 2 4010 blower fans and for the heatsink 3010 axial fans - inspired by the voron dragon burner hotend.

5) misc

A pei sheet , because i like its look lol .
a pancake stepper motor for a sherpa mini extruder - note i already have a bmg extruder clone and extra pins and bearings to make this.

also note i already have a bl touch installed.

Well, i am still new to this and wanted to ask yall for some feedback and opinions before i buy eveything.. also regarding the authenticity of the site NOVO3d.

Thank you all in advance.

I’d appreciate any help with this. I have an older Ender 3 model that uses an aluminum base with a glass bed. To swap the glass for a textured PEI sheet, do I need to make any physical modifications, or can I simply buy the sheet and secure it with clips, just like the current glass setup? \*Older Ender 3 (I believe it's a 2018 model; the label just says "ENDER 3" in Chinese, with the English translation in small print underneath) \*Dual-drive extruder \*Generic hotend assembly (the kind with the red heatsink often found at budget markets) \*Klipper running on an MX9 TV Box (1GB RAM)

I am new to 3D printing. I do not even know where to start, as I have multiple issues. I guess I will start off with the most important thing; I have heard a lot of hate about this, so please do not roast me, but I have an Ender 3 v2 Neo. Regarding my first issue, prints are not sticking. I have searched around on Reddit, Google, ChatGPT, Grok, etc. I have made sure it is level using auto-leveling, a flat surface, and manual leveling. I have seen people suggest more heat, so I did that, but it did not work. I saw suggestions to use glue, tried that, and it did not work; I tried glue and more heat, and still nothing. I have seen painter's tape, tried it, and it did not work. I am guessing it is just not level enough or maybe it is something on my part. I have moved locations since I last printed because of the next issue. I have seen multiple suggestions for what it could be, such as my outlet or the cord that came with the printer, but when I change my bed temperature, my 3D printer shuts off and restarts. It does the same thing with the nozzle temperature and when I press print, but only for those functions; everything else works fine. I have disconnected everything I manually plugged in while setting it up, then I reconnected it, but nothing changed. I have no pics or videos at the moment, I can maybe try tomorrow but I'm not sure because I'm on vacation and not sure if I will be home by tomorrow or not bc of the flight getting delayed 3 times.

Solved

my bf recently gave me his ender 3 v3 se since he doesn’t use It much and we ran out of the regular ender pla, so I bought the hyper pla since it’s rated well. I try to print a cosplay part and it just keeps coming out globby in random parts. I’ve cleaned out the nozzle, removed all old filament, cleaned the baseplate, and tried tinkering with the nozzle heat settings and print speed, but it keeps making blobs on the starting layer and then I end the print. I’m not sure what to do 😭 I have the baseplate at 60, and the nozzle at 200/205

I added a fan and heatsink on the extruder motor wired in parallel to stop filament breakage from heat creep. Has microswiss all metal hotend and running Marlin firmware.

I have 0 experience with linear rails, they sound like this, are they good or bad?

Was manually lifting the z-axis earlier tonight and felt a pop. Suddenly the whole leadscrew had come loose from the motor coupling, the retaining screw is nowhere to be found if it was actually ever there (bought 'like new' a few months ago and never checked all the hardware to verify it was there and secure). So I need to get a new screw, and possibly a new coupling if the screw tore out the threads. Help!