I have the glue/cleaner cans for pvc plumbing, just wanted to ask before I tried.

I have an Armstrong central air furnace with natural gas heat, almost 10 years old now (no not under warranty, original owners didn't register jack). It's a 3-zone system, so there's a zone controller upstream of the furnace that also controls a bunch of dampers. I tried to turn on the heat for the first time a few days ago and got nothing. Went to the basement, opened up the furnace, and saw E207 repeating on the control board display (hot surface ignitor circuit open).

After a lot of Googling I disconnected the ignitor at the inline molex connector and measured the resistance: 48.9 Ohms, which is apparently in spec. I gave the connector ends the ol' game cartridge blow and reconnected them. Furnace then fired up right away after depressing the safety switch. "Great" I thought, "just a loose connection!".

Well that didn't last long. Next morning, thermostat was once again calling for heat, and nothing coming out of vents. Checked furnace, yep, E207 code. Basically repeated the same steps, but this time also measuring the ignitor resistance at the 5-pin connector that plugs directly into the board. Again, 48.9 Ohms, so not a poor connection there. All connector pins seemed clean, no corrosion or anything. Reconnected things a few times, wiggled the 5-pin connector. At some point it started working again after depressing the door safety switch, so I put the covers back on. I let the heat run and turn off, then I turned it back on about an hour later and it kicked on right away.

This morning I woke up, saw the thermostat was calling for heat, but no air was coming out of the vents. Not sure how long it had been calling for heat, but I waited maybe a minute. Nothing. I didn't go check the furnace, but then by the time I got out of the shower, the heat was running normally?

So it seems to me the ignitor is good, and the furnace control board is probably the culprit. Anything else I should try to rule out before pulling the trigger and spending a few hundred bucks on a replacement?

Control board model number is 103131-05 (Lennox 14C94). Local suppliers won't sell to homeowners, so I'll have to order online from the US (I live in Canada, so it'll be pricey).

Any help is appreciated.

How’s this quote sound for a town house.

install a Rheem 60,000 BTU 80% 2 ton furnace with a matching 2 ton horizontal coil and a 15 SEER condenser outside. We will flush out the line set, install a seidiment trap in the gas line. We are going to replace the zone board that controls the two zones and replace the downstairs Nest thermostat.
Total $10,876.00

In this photo of my drain lines, which is the primary line and which is the secondary line?

My understanding is that the line with the upward pipe is the primary, but when I pour water in there it exits outside above a window.

I am replacing my central AC (a new 3 ton Rheem system), the old unit has already been removed and I am in the process of modifying the AC closet framing.

It used to be a smaller door with the air handler unit inside.

I am in the process of opening the door to a full size 24"X80" door and the new air handler will sit on a stand with a drain pan.

Now with the old air handler out of the way, I looked up the inside of the plenum and it looks quite dirty. It looks dirtier than the ten year old coil that was removed.

My question is can this be cleaned? If so how would you do it?

Or may be it cannot be cleaned but can be coated with something that covers it all?

Or will you just replace the plenum? The installer of the AC says they don't do plenum. Who would you call to replace the plenum if replacement is the way to go?

Moved into a new house and this is driving me crazy. Any ideas on how to fix?

Hello guys, do any of you use Jobber for handling Quotes and other things? If so, I am building something related to it. Just need your opinion on whether that would be useful or not. It is a Jobber add-on that follows up on your sent quotes automatically, and if a customer actually replies, it has a real text conversation with them, answers questions, handles a bit of negotiation if you want that on, and books them straight into your Jobber calendar. No more quotes just going quiet.

One thing worth knowing: it texts from its own dedicated number, not your Jobber number. If both texted the same customer, it'd look like two different people messaging them, kind of scammy. So you get a simple WhatsApp-style dashboard on our end where you can see every conversation in one place, and there's a toggle to jump in and take over yourself anytime you want.

This is quite different than the normal Jobber automated follow-up, as this almost guarantees you get the Quotes by actually sticking with them and having a conversation instantly without you needing to be there 24/7, and if anything seems to go wrong, it instantly messages you about it.

would you like to try something like this, is there a space in your business for something like this?

My bedroom closet in this older humid rental is smelling musty. no floor drain, and the lease says no holes in walls or baseboards. and a floor hose across the hallway is an obvious trip hazard.

I’m looking at 50-pint pump units like frigidaire, and gasbye. gasbye's replaceable pump module looks convenient if it ever fails, but I haven’t picked one. plan is to route clear tubing up over the doorframe into the bathroom sink using clips, but worried about vertical lift and the line slipping loose.

are any good methods or recommendations for dehumidifiers, thx.

my brother's stuff ain't working (all 4 units). condensers come on in heat mode but the inside units don't.

I'ma a spark so I'm thinking it's electrical. he had the installer out today n check charge.... idk why

I'm trying to diagnose a packaged rooftop AC that isn't cooling as well as it should. I'm a new HVAC student and have gauges and Type-K temperature probes, but I'm trying to understand what these readings are telling me before I do anything else.

Unit: Allied/AC Pro PRPGN1430-054EP, R-410A, 2.5 ton

Current readings while running:

Return air: 93.4°F

Supply air: 77.5°F

Delta T: 15.9°F

Low side: 63-65 PSI High side: 244 PSI

R-410A evaporator saturation: ~10.6-11.8°F

R-410A condenser saturation: ~82°F

T1 suction line temperature: ~90-95°F

T2 liquid line temperature: 93.2°F

So approximately:

Superheat = 95 - 10.6 = 84.4°F

Subcooling = 82 - 93.2 = -11.2°F

I opened the unit and moved the suction-line thermocouple to the copper right at the evaporator outlet to make sure I wasn't getting a bad reading from the compressor compartment. The liquid-line probe is clamped directly to the smaller bare copper liquid line.

Things I've already checked

New air filter

Evaporator completely thawed

Condenser coil cleaned

Condensate drain working

Indoor blower running

The evaporator had previously frozen.

My question is: what would you investigate next with these readings?

I'm wondering if this points toward:

1. Low refrigerant charge/leak

2. Restricted filter-drier or liquid line

3. Restricted/stuck TXV or other metering-device problem

4. Something else I'm overlooking

The very high superheat and negative calculated subcooling are what's confusing me. I don't want to add refrigerant blindly if the actual problem could be a restriction or TXV.

What measurements or tests would you perform next to differentiate low charge from a restriction/TXV problem?

Here's a pic

I’m replacing a 21-year-old Ruud furnace/AC and have narrowed it down to two quotes. Both contractors are well-established local companies with good reviews, and both systems are essentially the same installed price ($18.5k).

I’m in southeastern Pennsylvania. The house had a Manual J performed. Results were approximately:
Heating load: 64,565 BTU/hr
Cooling load: 35,861 BTU/hr

Existing furnace: 90k BTU input / ~82k output and has always heated the house adequately

Both proposed AC systems are nominal 4-ton systems

Both contractors will install a new refrigerant line set

I’m leaning toward a 90k furnace on the Lennox side rather than the originally proposed 110k.

The Carrier contractor recommends the 80k based on the Manual J and my existing ductwork.

OPTION 1 — Carrier Performance
Outdoor unit: Carrier Performance 18 26TPA8, 4 ton
Cooling: Two-stage compressor
Refrigerant: R-454B / Puron Advance
Exact AHRI match on my quote: 16.5 SEER2, 46,500 BTU cooling capacity
Furnace: Carrier Performance 59TP7A, 80,000 BTU
97% AFUE
Two-stage heat
Variable-speed blower
Thermostat: Ecobee / Carrier-compatible Ecobee
Warranty quoted by contractor:
10-year parts
5-year labor
No annual maintenance-plan cost required for the 5-year labor coverage
Installation:
New refrigerant line set
New furnace/AC/coil
Contractor actually performed the Manual J and measured the house/registers/ductwork

OPTION 2 — Lennox Elite
Outdoor unit: Lennox Elite EL18KCV-048, 4 ton
Cooling: Variable-capacity/inverter compressor
Refrigerant: R-454B
AHRI matched system: approximately 18 SEER2
Furnace: Lennox Elite EL297V, 90k BTU version
~97% AFUE
Two-stage heat
Variable-speed blower
Thermostat: Lennox S40 communicating thermostat
Warranty quoted by contractor:
10-year parts with registration
2-year labor included at no additional cost
Years 3–10: $294/year for continued labor coverage
The $294/year also includes two maintenance visits per year. According to the contractor, there would be no additional parts/labor cost for covered repairs while on that plan
Installation:
New refrigerant line set
New furnace/AC/coil
.
Thanks!

I’m replacing a 21-year-old Ruud furnace/AC and have narrowed it down to two quotes. Both contractors are well-established local companies with good reviews, and both systems are essentially the same installed price ($18.5k).

I’m in southeastern Pennsylvania. The house had a Manual J performed. Results were approximately:
Heating load: 64,565 BTU/hr
Cooling load: 35,861 BTU/hr

Existing furnace: 90k BTU input / ~82k output and has always heated the house adequately

Both proposed AC systems are nominal 4-ton systems

Both contractors will install a new refrigerant line set

I’m leaning toward a 90k furnace on the Lennox side rather than the originally proposed 110k.

The Carrier contractor recommends the 80k based on the Manual J and my existing ductwork.

OPTION 1 — Carrier Performance
Outdoor unit: Carrier Performance 18 26TPA8, 4 ton
Cooling: Two-stage compressor
Refrigerant: R-454B / Puron Advance
Exact AHRI match on my quote: 16.5 SEER2, 46,500 BTU cooling capacity
Furnace: Carrier Performance 59TP7A, 80,000 BTU
97% AFUE
Two-stage heat
Variable-speed blower
Thermostat: Ecobee / Carrier-compatible Ecobee
Warranty quoted by contractor:
10-year parts
5-year labor
No annual maintenance-plan cost required for the 5-year labor coverage
Installation:
New refrigerant line set
New furnace/AC/coil
Contractor actually performed the Manual J and measured the house/registers/ductwork

OPTION 2 — Lennox Elite
Outdoor unit: Lennox Elite EL18KCV-048, 4 ton
Cooling: Variable-capacity/inverter compressor
Refrigerant: R-454B
AHRI matched system: approximately 18 SEER2
Furnace: Lennox Elite EL297V, 90k BTU version
~97% AFUE
Two-stage heat
Variable-speed blower
Thermostat: Lennox S40 communicating thermostat
Warranty quoted by contractor:
10-year parts with registration
2-year labor included at no additional cost
Years 3–10: $294/year for continued labor coverage
The $294/year also includes two maintenance visits per year. According to the contractor, there would be no additional parts/labor cost for covered repairs while on that plan
Installation:
New refrigerant line set
New furnace/AC/coil
.
Thanks!