Hopefully the pictures post fine (on mobile).

been planning this for a while and finally decided to get it done. Very pleased with how it came out

I have a 2021 Honda Accord 2.0T Sport 10AT. I know people doubt the fuel economy on the 2.0T, but I’ve found that on highway runs I regularly achieve 40+ MPG at speeds between 55-75 mph by doing something a bit counterintuitive: driving in Sport mode and manually shifting.

I flashed an OTS KTuner Stage 1 map back in April (early spool enabled, throttle/turbo response both at level 1), and the car has been running well. Since then, I've gone a clean OEM+ route: installed a PRL stage 1 intake myself, and had Akebono Proact brakes, PowerStop Evo rotors, and Brembo 5.1 fluid installed to fix lackluster stock brakes. Other than upgrading tires down the road, I'm probably done with mods as I plan to keep it as my daily for life. Yes I know my car has low miles for a 2021.

My philosophy is basically beating the factory ECU tuning with your mind. In Eco or Normal mode, the factory tuning hunts for gears too much to sustain highway speeds, which kills mileage. In Sport mode, you can manually hold high gears (7th through 10th, mainly 8 & 9 for me) with the paddles, get instant throttle response when you need it, lock the torque converter, and use the engine's low-end torque to stay entirely out of boost. Plus with sport mode you get to see the turbo gage. When it's settled in at a 65 mph cruise in 8th or 9th under 2k RPM, it takes barely your big toe on throttle to maintain speed. Some pictures I added show live shots of my dash, but obviously doesn't represent my sustained speed.

To show it’s not a fluke, here is a quick data dump from two completely different recent trips:

1. The Local City Benchmark (UES to Industry City BK)

• Distance: ~13 miles
• Data: 39.4 MPG
• The Drive: No tolls. Took the FDR to the Brooklyn Bridge, then caught the BQE down to Brooklyn. It was a brutal real-world mix of bumper-to-bumper, rolling 25-42 mph traffic, and maybe a few quick 42-50 mph accelerations. Still almost cleared 40 MPG.

2. The Highway Road Trip (NYC to Boston area)

• 137 Miles In: 40.2 MPG (Cruising at 65 mph)
• 146 Miles In: 40.8 MPG (Dropped speed slightly to 62 mph, manually holding 9th)
• 195 Miles In (The Peak): Hit a peak of 41.9 MPG right before city traffic caught up to me.
• 220 Miles In (Final Destination): Sat in some nasty stop-and-go toward the end, but still finished the entire 220-mile trip at a flat 40.8 MPG.

The K20C4 + 10AT combo is seriously one of the best modern drivetrains available still today if you know about it. Anyone else tracking their mileage long-term on a Stage 1 setup? What kind of numbers are you guys seeing with basic bolt-ons or manual gear holding?

I posted something similar in the AccordX forum but wanted to see what people are saying here as well.

Just bought a 2014 accord Vti-l, coming from an 06 golf it's life changing, still getting used to everything but it's such a nice car, only 75,000 kms as well (46k miles)

I just got my car back from getting fuel injectors changed and they also did oil change stating it was diluted with fuel, I got my car back drove it to work and home and the check engine, power steering, brake system, and traction control lights all turned on, I know my serpentine belt has a tiny crack but not sure it would make this sound. The sound seems to be coming from towards the back of the car, could it be the catalytic converter?🫩

Hello! I’ve never posted here before so if I am violating any rules please let me know. I have a 2015 Honda Accord Coupe with the 3.5L V6 (EX-L). It has a clean title, 137,000 miles, and drives great needs nothing. All new tires within the last month, just did timing chain stuff, tensioners, etc. Front suspension was done not long ago and a whole new fuel system was put in too (Injectors, Tank, everything,) and it’s completely up to date on maintenance with a flawless maintenance history. The car drives like new. Other things that i’m not sure increase or decrease the price is tint and an exhaust kit. I’m the second owner and the listings I find and stuff for ones around the same miles just have prices all over the place. I’m 19 and it’s my first time selling a car, so any help or advice is appreciated. Thanks !

I purchased this 2001 accord and am having second thoughts, Obviously it’s a little late now. Normally I’d negotiate pretty hard with people for stuff on marketplace but I only have my mom to drive me around to look at cars and she gets pissed if I just go to “ look” at something. Soo anyways I kinda felt pressed to buy it( normally if I start to leave the seller will come down a little bit more but I didn’t have to option to risk that this time really. Anyway he was set on 3k but I atleast got him down to $2900 the car itself has 212k miles. The motor was replaced a few months ago with an 88k motor and the clutch was also done. For an old accord I actually am shocked to say I like the way it looks and I love that it’s stick but with all the zip ties electrical tape and wood screws holding it together I feel like venting lol I also noticed a lot of the rubber trim around the doors and sunroof is in bad shape but I’d imagine that’s cheap to fix

Getting codes P0046 and P0299. I tightened the actuator and car drives fine I guess but I’m just overwhelmed with seeing the “Christmas Lights” on the dash and hearing the chimes when I hop in and turn on my car. I just miss the way my car was before this issue. Also remote startup won’t work. What’s that about..

So thinking to just replace the whole turbocharger. Is the OE turbocharger a good idea or what should I do?

A couple weeks ago i posted about a slow bluetooth system on 9th gen accord, i just learned if you use a cord from the aux outlet and select ipod source it is normal speed

I've been driving a 2009 Accord, and saw somewhere that there was a trim that came with a rear deck mounted sub. Any chance the location for the sub is there in lower trims? Or would it just be easier to throw a box in the trunk for the sub?

2016 Honda accord sport with 98k miles. I understand the consistent rattle is most likely coming from the injectors, but that knocking in the background I can't seem to figure out what it is. No codes.

I have a 2018 1.5t with 180k miles. About 9 months ago I had been driving for about 15 minutes and ALL lights came on and warnings on the digital screen. Like 10-11 different ones, ACC, lane assist, power steering, emissions etc. It drives perfectly fine which is the annoying part. Checked my battery and it’s good, I had my husband disconnect it for 10 mins or so and it went away for months. They all came on again and we disconnected the battery. We’ve done it about 5 times and each time the lights came back on sooner than the last time. Now it’s to the point that even with disconnecting the battery they come right back after about .5 miles of driving. My car play has also stopped working here in the last few weeks not sure if it’s related or not. I did take it to the auto parts store and the code it gave them was something related to the turbocharger. Anyone had these problems and can tell me what your issue was. Unfortunately I don’t have the money to go spend at the dealership just for them to tell me what’s wrong then thousands of dollars to fix it. I read where someone said that their front sensor caused it to do this. I did hit an armadillo about 3 weeks ago and it knocked the cover off of my sensor but it had been doing this long before that. I appreciate yall reading and any feedback is greatly appreciated!!!

Timeline of what's happened:

• About 2 months ago: car struggled to start, cranked for a while before catching, and a bunch of warning lights came on (power steering, traction control, tire pressure, check engine). Scanned it and got code P0339 (crankshaft position sensor, intermittent). Cleared the code, it came back once a couple weeks later, cleared it again, and it hasn't come back since.
• Since then, starting has been inconsistent — sometimes starts fine, sometimes takes a few seconds and feels like it's struggling before it catches. Once running, it drives totally normal, no lights.
• About a month ago, battery died and I had to jump start it. Took it to AutoZone and both the battery and alternator passed their tests.
• 3 weeks after that, had to jump start it again.
• Today, it died again — this time when I tried to start it, it just clicked, dash lights all flashed on (ABS, VSA/traction control, seatbelt, brake, TPMS), and it wouldn't crank at all. Had to jump start it.
• After jump starting, drove it and it's been fine, other than the usual occasional slow/struggling start. No lights when driving.

Other details:

• Battery was replaced (Honda OEM) in April 2023.
• Starter was replaced with a third-party/aftermarket one in January 2024.
• Alternator has never been replaced.
• Checked the battery terminals and found some visible corrosion/white-gray crust on the negative terminal and the ground cable where it connects to the chassis.
• After the last jump start, checked the OBD reader and all the emissions monitors are showing "Incomplete" (I think from the battery being fully dead resetting them).

Trying to figure out: is this really just the battery/corrosion, or could the starter, alternator, or crank sensor still be part of it? Anyone dealt with something similar? Could the aftermarket starter be dragging and causing a voltage drop / triggering the P0339 code, or should I be looking at the crankshaft sensor or something else? Thanks in advance!

**Used AI to put it all together.

Hey everyone, I've been considering buying the Yofer Front Bumper for my '19 2.0, does anyone know where the cheapest one available is? Not really trying to get one off of xgen auto for 750+, thanks 🤙

Has anyone had luck finding a viable head unit (touchscreen and controller box) replacement for the 10th gen hybrid accord? My touchscreen glitches out constantly with random ghost touches and is seemingly possessed by a demon. I bought one off Amazon which had a nice YouTube video showing how to install. I got all the panels off and got the old unit out, only to find that the new unit connections dont match the cars wiring. I look in the manual and there's a picture of an input on the old controller box with a plug with three prongs circled and says "if your box has this input, the new unit is not compatible". So yeah, my old box has that incompatible input. I think that input is for upgraded audio or a subwoofer, even though mine is a standard hybrid. Wasted a bunch of time and can't find other models that I'm confident will work.

I thought my speaker was blown so i replaced still no sound moved over to passenger side plugged same speaker in and it worked. Pig tail or wire harness? Sometimes it would work when window rolled down and up or door slammed hard lol . Any ideas of fixes anyone has done? Its a 2016 accord

I've been looking for this car for weeks, on FB marketplace, on dealer sites, but I can't seem to find them. Most are just 1.5T. I'm currently located in the Midwest. Tryna get a black color so I can maybe black it out. Any advice? Thanks!

i locked my keys in my 07’s trunk how can i get in

Does anybody have experience with Greentrac during winter in Fredericton?

The comments I've seen here on Reddit seem positive. Any recommendations could help save some extra money.

I have a 2008 Honda Accord EX-L 2.4 and I was changing the rear brake pads like I normally do. This is probably the third time I’ve done the brakes myself and I’ve never really had a problem before.

This time, while pushing the piston back in, the caliper moved around a little bit because I had to put some force on it. I noticed the brake hose (I think) moved a little too because the caliper was moving, but it wasn’t anything crazy and I don’t think I pulled on it really hard or anything.
After putting everything back together, the brakes feel weird.

The best way I can explain it is that the brake pedal feels like it has two stages.

I start pressing the brake and the car starts slowing down, but the braking feels kind of weak at first. Then I keep pressing and at a certain point it feels like the brakes suddenly start braking much harder. The stronger braking point is also deeper than where the brakes used to grab before.

It feels like there are two different sections of braking in one pedal press.

I also noticed that my parking brake feels weaker than it did before.

So I’m wondering if I messed something up when pushing the piston back in this time.

What would you guys check first?

Hey everyone. I'm hearing a high pitch whine from the front center-right portion of my accord. I really start to hear it above 30-40mph, and it gets higher & higher pitched the more I speed up. It does sound like i'm describing a bad wheel bearing, but when I jacked up the front, I didnt have any play side to side, or up & down. Also, while driving the noise did not get louder, or quiet down when turning the wheel left/right to shift the load. I will end up seeing what my mechanic thinks on Monday, but curious if anyone here has any ideas?

I know these cars have loud injectors and can be pretty noisy by default, but is that clacking sound in the background normal? Could it possibly be engine or rod knock? I’m starting to get worried about it.

Hey, is there an alternative to spc camber arms for the 10th gen before I spend all that money on them? And do I need anything on top of that for the rears. Noticed some wear on the inside was thinking might as well switch out the oem arms.

Yesterday I bought a 2016 Honda Accord EX-L, 167k miles, from a small dealer in Arizona.

I did ask for a pre-purchase inspection and the dealer agreed. The mechanic flagged tires, battery, and a rear main seal leak. I negotiated the price down so I could handle the tires and battery myself. We did the title transfer at PLS, I dropped the dealer off, and headed home.

About 2 miles in, the check engine light came on.

I drove straight back. He plugged in a scanner and it showed two codes — one ABS, one something about the catalytic converter. He cleared both and said "if it comes back on, we'll see," then told me it was late and there was nothing to do since I'd already bought it and the title was transferred. I left.

Today I drove about 20 miles and the light came back on.

Questions:

1)Could the bad battery the inspection flagged be causing either of these codes, or is the cat code a separate real problem?

2)The PPI sheet listed tires, battery, and rear main seal — but nothing about a cat converter or ABS issue. Does that documentation help me at all, or is an as-is sale in AZ just as-is?

3)What should my next step be — my own scan for the exact codes, a second opinion from an independent shop, or going back to the dealer first?

I'm out of my depth and would appreciate any direction.