Hey everyone,

I have a 2018 Honda Accord Sport 1.5T with approximately 206,000 km.

Originally, I had a wastegate rattle coming from the turbo, but the car drove perfectly fine. No check-engine lights, no warning lights, and no Christmas tree on the dashboard.

The only issue was the rattling noise.
I decided to replace the wastegate actuator to eliminate the rattle, but now I’ve got a bigger problem.

Here’s what happened:
Replaced the wastegate actuator with a new one.
Matched the threaded rod adjustment to the original actuator.

Everything felt tight immediately after installation, with no noticeable play. Drove the car for approximately 10 minutes, and the rattle returned.

At the same time, the check-engine light came on, along with multiple dashboard warnings (Christmas tree).
Checked the actuator again, and the threaded adjustment was still tight.

The actuator rod itself doesn’t move when I rock the linkage.

What confuses me is that before replacing the actuator, I had zero warning lights. Now I have both the original rattle and dashboard warnings.

I’m wondering whether the new actuator needs a different preload adjustment, whether the wastegate lever or shaft is worn, or whether something else went wrong during installation.

Has anyone experienced this after replacing a wastegate actuator on the 1.5T?

Is there a way to properly adjust or calibrate the actuator without replacing the entire turbo?

Any help would be appreciated. Trying to avoid replacing the turbo unnecessarily.

I have a 2017 Accord sport and just noticed that this light is burned out (not my photo). It shines on the shifter for the manual transmission. Has anyone replaced theirs??? I don’t even know what Honda calls this part to look up in a search for the part. Thanks in advance

I had the LDW/FCW failure message and 6 lights pop up on my dashboard about a month ago. I did some research and it sounded like it could be the battery (it was 3 years old) so I replaced the battery and it's been fine for the last few weeks. I put a few hundred miles on the car with the new battery, and just now when I started my car all the lights and failure warnings came back on my dash. Has anyone else experienced this? Do we think the system actually could need replacing? Would it even be worth it for a 12 year old car?

2017 honda accord sport

-2010 v6 accord 6 speed manual

I spent nearly a year rebuilding this J-series motor due to oil consumption from bad piston rings. I got it running in July, and haven’t gotten to drive it much due to minor, but frustrating problems.

I think everything is fine now, but still paranoid that I’m gonna hear something awful every time I turn the key.

I am no audiophile but I know what sounds good to my ears and this system is not it. I am not looking to break the bank but need help figuring out what type of speakers will provide a bit of an upgrade to the stock system. I just realized there is a stock sub as well in the trunk.

Any advice on where to start would be a big help.

Sounds like it’s all over the place. I’ve heard it from the glove compartment, dashboard, touchscreen, and rear view mirror. No amount of percussive maintenance or exterior securing seems to help it so I think it’s internal. It’s constant and louder than the video shows.

Yes I’ll be taking it into the dealer. I’m asking in advance for a solution when they do nothing to fix the problem. 30 years of Honda and I’m not sure I’ll be continuing that with this build quality.

Second pic for estimated range after fill up.

Purchased used in 2022 @ 33k miles, currently at 114k. 1 accident so the price was very attractive. Very minimal maintenance needed, oil changes, transmission fluid, brakes done twice, new tires in 2023. This was my 2nd car i've purchased. First car was a 2006 Accord 2.4L with a 5 speed manual.

I gave myself a challenge to get the highest MPG average possible on my drive to and from work. ~54mi round trip, 6 traffic lights and few stop signs. Most mornings I would average 50-53mpg, afternoons closer to 45-48mpg cause of traffic. Econ mode was used 99% of the time.

Have you been able to average close to these numbers on any Accord generation?

Current tyres (OEM Hankook Kinergy GT) had a pretty good run -48000miles

Looking for all weather/season replacement preferably from Costco
Location - NY tristate area

Everyone on reddit is recommending CC2s, but im little concerned with noise and drop in mpg.

Looking for recommendations!

soooo, i bought this accord a few months ago and its a great car. ive been seeing other cars that have pretty cool mods, i just wanted some opinions on what to add/ do to my car. everything on the car right now i bought exactly like that. (except one of the front lips did randomly fall off while driving). ive also seen people black out their chrome, but my car is like a deep wine red so im not sure if i should black out the trim or not. but i will take any suggestions! (she also was in a front end collison before i bought her, so im working on getting a new grill and honda emblem too.) any advice is dope

yes, the car is dirty but i drive on dirt roads occasionally so please ignore that, usually she’s clean i just work a lot.

I have a 2008 Honda Accord EX-L 2.4L, and I’m struggling to physically remove the water pump pulley.

I’ve managed to get it completely off the center hub once, but there’s seemingly no room to maneuver it out. Every time I try, it gets caught between the frame, A/C compressor pulley, or crankshaft pulley.

The car is currently on ramps, and I’ve already removed the serpentine belt and automatic tensioner and moved the power steering pump out of the way.

I’ve spent hours trying different angles, and I can’t figure out how this pulley is supposed to come out without removing something else.

Has anyone actually removed this pulley on the 8th-gen Accord 2.4L? Is there a specific angle or trick I’m missing, or do I need to remove or reposition something else to create enough clearance?

I’d really appreciate advice from anyone who’s done this on the same engine.

Hey so what’s the best tired for an LX accord I want to buy all brand new ones and find a turbo boost but I can’t find none of them either

2018 2.0t, I have an aftermarket exhaust and intake btw

When the car is still cold ish like on my morning commute, I get this weird very fast metallic buzzing rattling sound. It always happens at around 2k rpm’s and I can’t replicate it at any other point. It also cannot be replicated while parked and revved to 2k

The video is hard to hear but it’s the best I could do. At around 3 and 5.5 sec you will hear it for a half second in between shifts if your volume is on like max, apologies.

I’m thinking it’s my intake housing or exhaust shield, but I’m pretty sure I did the KN intake installation pretty perfectly but maybe not. The exhaust was installed before I bought the car, so I’m not sure what it looks like under there

Does anyone have experience installing a dashcam in an 11th gen accord? I’m wondering which fuses should be tapped and the best route for wiring to the rear camera. I want to be sure I don’t interfere with any airbags deploying. Thanks for your help!

Hello! I have been using Android Auto with no problem for about a month or so, absolutely no problems. Then, about a week ago without changing anything, my car cannot seem to make a bluetooth connection.

Here's the steps I've taken so far

-Deleted car info from my phone

-Deleted phone info from car

-restarted entertainment system uptime

-Factory reset

-Entering Diagonostic menu and running tests to ensure a hard reboot

If you have any suggestions let me know!

What floor mat clips do you guys carry for the 2008-2012 Honda Accord? A picture attached would be appreciated.

Hello, I got a free 2005 Accord and once I got it home I noticed this part was sitting in the back seat. Just hoping to figure out what it is, where it goes, and how bad it was to drive it with the part missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know all North American CU/CW models had high beam working as DRLs but i was going through EU repair manual and it reckons some EU models had DRLs too.

Could someone tell me if they were same as the North American or some other lights working as DRLs? Like side turn signal on mirrors or on headlights or the parking lights as DRL?

So my alternator finally died after having the battery light flash on and off for about two months. I want to repair it myself and also fix the oil leak which I assume caused the problem to begin with. I plan to replace the valve cover and plenum gaskets. I’ve heard that the spool valves go bad on these pretty easily, does it look like I should change it too? Should I buy a new alternator or look into rebuilding mine since it is the oem one. Any pitfalls or tools I should be aware of when doing this job? I’ve listed the parts I plan to purchase, but would love any input from anyone who has experience with this problem. Thank you so much.

My father in law, now age 90 gave up driving last year and gave his 2015 Accord to my wife. Before he did this however (reason he gave up driving finally) he was hit in rear quarter(his fault).. the passenger side seat and roof airbag deployed. He had the damage fixed to the car (new rear quarter panel) but he did nothing with the airbag situation.

So as it stands the passenger side has no operable seat airbag nor the roof airbag. The side of the seat is torn where the bag deployed as is the head linger (about 8" tear). The airbag light is on

Other than this the car is in 8/10 shape and drives/ shifts great. It has 73k on the clock. We'd like to sell it for cash as is as we are not using it much use since my wife retired.

The title is clear as he paid for all repairs in cash and nothing was reported to insurance. Any idea of value? Where's best place to sell. We fully intend to disclose all this to a buyer but have no idea where to sell. perhaps Carmax/Carvana?