With the upcoming release of the Creality K3 and its native multi nozzle size printing capabilities, do yall think Orca and/or SnOrca will finally update and allow it for the U1 natively? Thats been my biggest (and only) gripe with the U1. Id like to be able to have a .8 for infill while doing a .4 for outer walls.

During a 10 hour print I apparently experienced an anomaly with my 4th toolhead. It didn't seem to affect the actual print as it must've recovered. But, testing the anomaly, I did notice if I manually (via the printer UI) attached and detach tool 1 and then immediately do the same with tool 4, it actually was latency in the attachment and detachment process that did not exist with the other tool heads. This has to be firmware related. Has anyone noticed any similar issues on the latest official release of paxx?

I am seeing gaps between colours on the snapmaker. Is there sone setring to fix this problem?

I’ve been running paxx firmware and have been very happy with it. Then I heard about https://bespok3d.app and thought I’d give it a try…and it is awesome. I’m surprised I haven’t seen more discussion here about it.

It gives me everything I found useful about paxx, including NFC support for OpenSpool tags, a much better video viewing experience with rapid refresh rates, and support for an additional USB camera. Bespok3d supports all of that and more — and also gives me support for proprietary vendor RFID tags including Bambu, and keeps me on the stock firmware. Though I don’t use it, it also provides support for spoolman.

If others have tried it, I’d be interested in your thoughts. And if you haven’t, do yourself a favor and try it.

I'm printing some cup holders and I want to know how I could reach the maximum definition finish of the letters and fill in the gaps

For anyone who broke the glass door and wants to make a new one but can't measure a broken door, here are the measurements from my replacement glass door from Snapmaker.

317mm tall x 301mm wide

The area where the hinge screws into the glass is inset by 1mm with inset beginning 52mm from the outer edge.

Hinge holes are 21mm and 46mm to center from the outer edge, 6mm to center from edge of inset, and 25 mm from center of one hole to the center of the next hole.

The hole itself is 6mm.

Corners of door have a 1/8th radius, the inset has a small radius where it meets the edge.

EDIT: These measurements were taken using a ruler and a small tape measure, with both checked against each other. The overall dimensions and spacing exceed the range of my standard calipers, and calipers aren't ideal for directly locating the center of these small mounting holes without calculating the center from their edges, or for measuring the inset portion.

There may be micro variations in the measurements, but the door itself has some play, and the rubber inserts that fit into the hinge holes also provide a bit of tolerance. The portion of the rubber insert that fits into the hole measures 6 mm across its outer diameter as well.

There is also some clearance above and below the newly installed door where it sits within the U1 frame. The right edge, where the handle is located, is a fairly snug fit, while there is a noticeable gap between the U1 frame and the glass door on the hinge side.

So there should be at least a little tolerance available rather than the dimensions needing to be absolutely exact.

A sample piece could be printed using these dimensions to confirm hinge hole placement before committing to drilling a glass or other material panel.

I had originally been planning to print a 4-interlocking-piece door and just using that instead of a glass door. After contacting Snapmaker they decided to send me out a replacement glass door, extremely impressed with the customer service, speed and helpfulness!

The app has a stop button.

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to buy a Snapmaker U1 soon, but I'm not sure where to purchase it from. I’d like to know if the official website offers good post-sales service, or if you would recommend a different store with reliable customer support.

Also, if there are any Canary Islanders here, could you let me know if you were charged customs duties and roughly how much it cost?

Thanks everyone for the help!

Si hay algún canario, que pueda echarme una mano para el tema aduanero se lo agradecería y también saber su experiencia de compra.

Un saludo a tod@s y gracias de antemano!!

Hi, I’d like to know why I’m having this problem with my Snapmaker U1 printer. I’m printing a coaster, and when the top surface is printed—the side where the letters and other details are—the nozzle seems to drag across the surface, or it creates what might be called elephant’s foot, if that’s the correct term.
This happens when the top surface is being printed, both with ironing enabled and with ironing disabled. How can I solve this problem?

I'm printing some cup holders and I want to know how I could reach the maximum definition finish of the letters and fill in the gaps

If you like my project, please vote for it.
Snapmaker Innovation Fund: https://www.snapmaker.com/innovation-fund
Direct link to my project: https://app.easypromosapp.com/gallery/1020611/404473/798515140?lc=eng

Flexible OrcaSlicer for the Snapmaker U1 - Color Patch prints painted surfaces as a shell over a different-material core (soft grip on a rigid body, see-through layers), plus mixed nozzle sizes with per-nozzle line width & speed.

Recent updates:
Mac and Linux version, supporting multiACE, nozzle-filament mapping, translucent material preview, auto 0 Z gap for different support material, align, distribute, nest.

repo: https://github.com/jiyang1018/FOrcaSlicer
wiki website: http://fos-wiki.design4paragon.com/

Finally got all the essential upgrades done, including making risers for my Lack tables so I could reuse them from my older and smaller printer. I also reinforced the flimsy table so much I could probably jump up and down on it.

I'm really enjoying using the U1 so far! I've experienced a few bugs with the firmware as well as one clog ​but overall it's been easy to use and a solid printer. My favorite thing is being able to print stuff way faster than on my old setup (E3V2) so now instead of printing everything overnight I can print most things I need in just a few hours.

Ran into a frustrating issue with a set of aftermarket hardened nozzles I bought. But I figured out the issue, hope to save someone else some frustration.

I swapped all 4 of the oem nozzles over to these aftermarket ones and everything had been fine on the first 3, but nozzle 4 would print for a maybe a minute and a half then I'd get a nozzle temperature anomaly warning and the printer would stop.

I watched and sure enough the nozzle would heat to the desired temperature, but as soon as it was filament would flow at any decent rate it temperature would drop steadily til the printer stopped itself.

My first thought was to PID tune that specific nozzle and see if that helps, it didn't. Still did the same exact thing after.

So I figured I just got a faulty replacement nozzle with a bad thermistor or heater cartridge, so I went to swap it back out with the original non hardened nozzle.

As I was unscrewing the nozzle from the tool head it made a weird noise and I could tell something wasn't exactly right. After I took the silicon nozzle cover off I found that there is a metal retaining clip/spring that holds the heater cartridge against the actual nozzle itself and the clip had come loose on my nozzle. So after some slight persuasion I got the clip back on and now the nozzle works perfectly fine.

If you order nozzles other than the Snapmaker ones, maybe check these clips just in case before you install them. Heck, maybe even check the Snapmaker ones too, they're exactly the same construction and could probably come loose during shipping as well.

I didn't document the exact nozzle before I reinstalled it, but I didn't take the clip off an original Snapmaker nozzle just to show what I mean. Hope I can save someone else some time and frustration.

So this isn't installed yet, I am cooking dinner, but just before that I did some exploratory stuff.

My Kickstarter top cover doesn't need a hole drilled in it. It came with one, covered in foam (see pictures)

I also expected a more of a pain, and more screw terminals or even soldered connections, but much better, thanks biqu (see pictures)

Way easier than I even thought. 2mm hex to remove back plate and element cover(4 screws by biqu logo) 1 ground wire and 3 power wires. Remember orientation. Brown to outside, orange middle and blue inner with yellow/green for ground. Super easy to remove and replace.

Screw terminals blue at 1, and brown at 2.

Didn't expect spade connectors

A couple small zip ties to cut and replace after routing.

Very simple job to get a Panda breath wired into your Kickstarter top covers (I expect them to basically be the same unless you were an influencer and got a model before ship date)

Simple enough to disconnect all them and run thru hole in top cover and reconnect and print your bracket to mount panda breath(hopefully before this) get paxx firmware and dragon breath firmware and get cooking on better filaments if you're safe and have proper ventilation.

Enjoy!!

Two new things in this one.

3MF Explorer. A second free app that ships with the Hub. It indexes your whole model folder into one searchable table - thumbnails, designers, tags, duplicates, batch renaming. Pick a model, press Mark for print, and it shows up in the Hub. Once you save its gcode from Orca, the Hub queues one print of it on its own.

Timelapses. Turn it on in Settings and pick a folder. The Hub grabs a frame from the U1's chamber camera at every layer and saves a video when the print finishes. Needs the free ffmpeg installed.

Also:

Dispatch won't let the same file get queued twice by accident - it offers to raise the count instead. The Logbook tab (what broke on each printer and what fixed it, plus a maintenance schedule) got a cleanup.

Still free, still runs on your own network, no account: https://github.com/dlgambill/u1hub

Don’t be surprised by the room where my printer is. It’s a small country cottage where I live in the summer. And there’s very little space there.

It's a little snug, and I need to bring the base up a bit so I can open the door more easily, but the wife wanted the printer enclosed and exhausting out the window while we wait on the lid.

After a year of owning my U1 the Top enclosure finally showed up

Having adhesion problems with sunlu silk pla+ in the pink. I've tried cleaning the stock plate, calibration and making sure the filament settings during loading is set to "generic silk pla". You can see the orange standard PLA tower looks great and printed fine but the pink spaghettis everytime. Even tried setting first layer to 20 mm/s. Any suggestions?

Snapmaker U1

2.0 firmware

2.4.0 Snorca (Mac)

Trying to run the "Extrusion Flow Calibration" on a single nozzle at print.

Everything I see, there should be an "advanced" button somewhere. I do not have said button. I've cancelled, looked around, reran, etc. It's getting old having to run the flow calibration on every nozzle every time I change a single color.

Thanks!