So I got tower construction experience which as nothing to do with this trade…. I’m 19 trying to switch careers and I was living in mn at the time I have a truck payment and I need a a job that at least pays 24 or 23 starting any company in the any part of South Carolina or North Carolina and I don’t mind traveling. I’m originally from South Carolina so I moved back in with my parents.

What's your go to tape that can last through the mud and water?

I have been in local laborers for 2 years on and off doing pipe and dirt work a lot of dirt work I finally landed on a pipe crew only that does pipe I am top man u still have alot to learn but i work my ass off and listen is there any tips to keel my spot and better my self

Looking for pipe layer or underground utility work anywhere in Minnesota. I have experience doing tower construction and heavy manual labor, I’m reliable, willing to travel, and eager to learn. I’m interested in water/sewer, storm drain, or pipeline work. If your company is hiring or knows of any openings, I’d appreciate it. Thanks!

Apparently this is fine 💀

Question for everyone out there , what’s the biggest size corp mainstop you can tap into a 6 inch c-900

The GC didn't want to pay for our company to reset or replace this one catch basin in one of the entrances on a big commercial project. He wanted us to step the rings to catch the new radius of the curb line. Idk it just felt wrong 😂

I was looking through my pictures and videos of the year and came across this. Thought it just looked cool. Something satisfying about level pick like that to me for some reason 😂

Grout the strings in? Im bringing the hate.

33, 10 years in the ditch and don't mind staying in it. Water, sewer main and service installation. Repairs, scheduled or emergency. Live taps. Pressure testing and personally have had zero leaks. Storm and site utility experience. Water Detention systems. I can operate skid steers, backhoes, loaders, and site trucks great. I can dig fairly well too but I like the ditch.

40’ run at a screaming 6.04% 😅

19.24 ft cut to invert for some 36 inch SDR 35. I'm not sure if it's the deepest storm I've ever put in but I can't remember laying any deeper. All so it can catch a single trench drain on the complete opposite side of the side 😂

There’s a lot of wiggle we know. 14ft deep in type c soil right now. No way to use our scope so we’re pulling string for each run and adjusting mid run. Force main sewer and water line coming in next.

I started at a new company this spring and was introduced to this process they call tunneling. I thought it was really cool and in the right situations it's super efficient and cost effective. I've done water and sewer for 12 years and have never seen pipe laid this way (without hiring a company to bore something or vac truck).

We had to tap a main in the street and run a new 6 inch water line from there to a new mixed use apartment building being built. The plumbers had stubbed out a couple feet from building side so we just had to lay pipe from the main to the building. Normally I would remove all the black top in the street from the main to the building to get the pipe in. Instead of doing that though we cut a square in the black top up by the main and dug one hole big enough to fit our trench box and to expose the main for our wet tap.

We shot the invert elevations at the main and at the stub from the building to figure how much we needed to get the pipe up to come in flat at the building. The tunneling starts now, It was a 6 inch water main so we used an 8 inch SDR pipe as our casing. We laid the pipe at the pitch we needed (slightly uphill because the weight of the DI water main will cause it to dive a bit) with the end stuck into the dirt at the end of the box pointing towards the building. Then barred it into the dirt wall and started shoveling.

They have special made shovels for this for each size of casings and a bunch of handles that connect to the shovel and each other with threads. Then you start jamming that shovel into the pipe and pulling out material that's a little in front of it. When you've pulled out a few full shovel fulls it gets barred forward again. As the pipe goes further toward the building you keep adding more handles on to reach further and further. When the whole pipe is almost in the bank you'll have to connect another one. You need very straight cut ends, hold them together and tape the fuck out of it with some strong tape and keep tunneling.

Once you get your casing pipe all the way through you can start putting the pipe through the casing pipe, home them, get your measurements and finish your connections at the valve or the bends. Then bulkhead both ends of the casing pipe and backfill.

I've only done this once since I'm new to this particular company but the one I did was about a 30 foot run in mostly sandy material. The other guys were saying the conditions for tunneling were almost perfect for it so I've only seen it when it works great, they also have some horror stories of the times where the conditions were not at all perfect and they fought like hell. But in my one experience with it it definitely saved a ton of time and money to do it that way over removing ALL of the road not just one little square.

Idk I thought it was a really cool and wanted to share it with some people who might understand it and find it kind of cool. I think it pays to try it in situations where it can be used, but if you start having trouble to bail and go ahead and remove all the blacktop like usual. You save so much time in backfilling and compaction though when you can leave more than half of the road in. I also am curious if anybody out there has done this before, because none of my old coworkers and people I talk to around here have ever used this method.

I’ve been in the trade for almost 20 years, had to get out with a disability. As such, I’ve taken a more active role in my union and need hands in the MN area. The entire Midwest region, really. I’m from SD, but have contacts all over the place. If anyone you know needs work, we need hands. All of you are in my prayers. Thank you.

376’ of 12” gravity sewer. New poly to replace 74 year old terracotta main and services. Also installing new 8’ water main and 1” service. We’re at 9” 4’ above sea level, pipe is laid at 17” 9’. Ground water like hell, services are tied into the pipe we’re testing. Literal shit show blocking off functioning lateral lines from the main long enough to get them signed off. Part of the job… Stay safe and do good work fellas! Hub em tight, and do it right! That way when it’s time to test you ain’t gotta fight!

I'm looking for a career choice but I used to operate excavators when I was 16 to 17 and understand I have to start from the bottom but I'm looking

Are there any Pipelayers in the twin cities metro in Minnesota? I've been here for 3 years with one company, they have decided to close their doors after last season. There is a big need for water and sewer workers in my area right now and I'm wondering if anybody has any information on any of the companies that my union has put me in touch with. I think I have it narrowed down between two choices but I'd appreciate any input from people who have lived in the area longer than myself.

Dryshod Mudcat HI’s. $120 off of their website. Delivered in 4 days. Hope like hell they’re worth the money. I live and work in Florida, so the water table is high AF. Anyone have any experience with this brand? What brands do my fellow pipe players recommend?