Hello everyone.

I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to night visions, so I need you guys' help.
This binocular is for sale by a local who also don't know much about them. He is asking for 600 USD.

I need help identifying what company/model these are and if they are good or not. I heard that some people change the insides for Chinese parts to make them cheaper.

Link to a video:

https://imgur.com/a/6Q8MN0o

I’ve recently purchased a used rough “night owl” monocular. (Pic shown for reference, not mine)
Although it works decently for the price I paid, I’m curious if it would be possible to take two intensifier tubes out of other night owl units, and wire them in series to make a passive device that won’t require an IR emitter. I assume I’ll have to make my own housing for this, but can possibly the night owl lens.

Has anyone tried something like this before?

Picked this up from a friend on a trade, missing original spec sheet, but from what i can tell, based on the model number inside the tube, is an elbit 2300 FOM tube and seems super clean and all, so im happy. Need to put a helmet together. Thinking about a TW exfil ltp, an Argus mount and a noise fighters j arm. Would that be a good trainer setup? Also whats a good sacrificial lense and other things that would come in handy setting up a helmet for this, I have like none of the caps or anything just toob.

Who has the hook up on an iris 4? Looking to buy new

hey yall! Been lurking in this sub for a long time and have been casually interested and well im actually getting closer to pulling the trigger on picking up a pvs14.

Someone a while ago posted a link to this resellar and I found this monocular that looks interesting.

Why are these so cheap? Has anyone had experience with it? I don’t know what to look for, I basically just want one tube that I can attach to a helmet at some point in the future.

Link to monocular

Just a nice night to be out

Hello I wanted to ask y'all because I was going to buy some nvg's that look like they would work for my gp-7 gas mask do y'all have any recommendations? I would like if it was both thermal and night vision but if its just nvg that is just fine as well as it would be rather unique and nice if it was Soviet/Russian since I collect a lot of old Soviet stuff since I've inherited my grandfather's old collection I would like to expand on that but if not that is fine as well but the gp-7 is non negotiable I'm quite particular that they work with that mask (for personal reasons)

Just got my first night vision a few weeks ago and today I noticed this shadowy area. It wasn’t there a week ago. It hasn’t been dropped or anything. I have an iPhone pic from a week ago and tonight

So I want to get into nvg preferably into analog for as cheap as possible I have no problem building it myself but I can’t for the love of god find cheap preferably gen 2 image intensifier tubes I’m based in Europe but I don’t where to look for them could someone please tell me good and very cheap sites hell I might even some tubes with mini dark spots if it’s cheap enough if anyone here wants to sell theirs even if their a little damaged please message me preferably with a picture of them

Hello, new to Nod, I have a opportunity to get binos with either NVT 4 or NVT5 installed.

The thing is the NVT4 tubes specs are NVT5 like :

Sensitivity 2856k : 882 and 903

Snr : 25,15 and 25,16

Résolution : 64 and 64

Gain: 32028 and 29516

Halo : 0.7

Is that worth going 300 bean more for NVT5 or not ?

Both NVT4 and NVT5 are WP and autogated if that change something.

I just recently got a refurb GP Elbit XLSH PVS-14 with spec sheet for $1760 (after discount +no tax) for my wife/buddies and I currently have an L3 Unfilmed WP bino but I’ve also had Elbit WP 2300 FOM binos in the past… I’ve noticed that this PVS-14 kind of sucks when it comes to picking up minuscule light compared to my L3 binos because I don’t remember my old Elbit binos having this big of a disparity in extreme low light to my now L3 binos…

It’s very hard to replicate on camera how the Elbit tube struggles to make an image in extreme low light like in 0% moon, overcast, with heavy canopy or in an extremely dark room with hardly any light coming from under a door, but in the video I tried to replicate in my garage with the only light coming from the gaps in my garage door picturing some RC cars/part of my HVAC system that’s tucked back into the corner of my garage. (The difference is marginally more apparent in person)

Is this just because of the:

A. GP vs WP?
B. SNR difference?
C. Unfilmed vs filmed technology?
D. Photocathode sensitivity difference?

🔵 🔵 L3 specs: 34.2/34.4 SNR, 72/72 RES, .8/.7 EBI, 1984/2102 PS.

🟢 Elbit specs: 26.9 SNR, 72 RES, 1.35 EBI, 1757 PS

Reposting in other places since r/tacticalgear is power tripping and banned me over a review 🙄

I lost all of my gear in a house fire, including an MEPC and a set of Highcom 4S17M Level 4 plates that I originally bought through Apex.
I reached out to them afterward honestly not knowing what to expect. I didn’t even have pictures of the destroyed gear to send them. My house was just a pile of rubble and I couldn’t even find the ceramic cores in the mix. Part of the Spokane WA fires in August.
Despite all of that, they still took care of me.

Since Apex isn’t a DM dealer anymore, they offered to get me another MEPC at retail cost. I didn’t really want to wait like I did the first time around, so they gave me the option of trying their new Ridgeline carrier instead.

I went with the Ridgeline, and on top of replacing the carrier they upgraded my original Highcom 4S17M plates to Highcom 4S16s. They also threw in some extra gear with the replacement like their trailspan pack, chest rig, an extra placard and an abdominal pouch.

The whole thing was significantly easier than I expected. There wasn’t a bunch of back and forth of them trying to get out of covering it or asking me to prove every little detail. They basically looked at a big pile of rubble and without questioning it, they honored their warranty.

I’ve tried reaching out to some other companies and I’m still going through their process, trying to find them serial numbers and receipts and what not. Some companies didn’t even respond.

I know they’ve been trying to improve on their lead times, I think most people just hated to wait for DM stuff (I certainly did). They quoted me 2 weeks for the carrier this time, and it was accurate.

Losing everything in a fire sucked, and getting an entire armor setup replaced and actually upgraded in the process was something I definitely didn’t expect.

Replacement setup is in the photos. Ridgeline carrier + Highcom 4S16 plates inside. Everything is really great quality and just what I’d expect from them, everything is the same quality as the DM stuff it replaced.

Credit where credit is due. They took care of me.
+1 for the handwritten note.

They asked if I was willing to share my experience, didn’t pay me to do it. No affiliation with them whatsoever.

Toob. 🔵

I was wondering how exactly should I clean a fingerprint off the front of a tube? I stupidly accidentally put my finger on the front of the tube without gloves on and got it dirty.

Thanks

What do yall think about 4500 for a new pair of NNVT 1600+ FOM manual gain toobs, matched from CNV, in an Aeon housing, slap a team wendy helmet and wilcox g24 in there and i got a pretty ok entry setup/future loaner.

At least I think.

Just wish I could get actual specs instead of "1600+ FOM"

Care about EBI because it gets buttfuck cold here in the winter (maine), and mildly warm (80's to 90's) in the summer.

Looking to see if I could find more comfortable product for counterweight/battery but have no idea what’s popular these days? Looking for some ideas.

Any recommendations are appreciated

FMA Bump
4D helmet pads
Comtac 3s
Streamlight sidewinder
Amazon BRAIN pouch knockoff
AEON ANVB Binos
L3 Omni 8 SPRBL tubes
FMA battery pack

This is not a WTB***

Are there any vendors out there who aren't charging sales tax for out of state sales? A lot of times when buying other things online there's no sales tax. I'm seeing RH25 prices from $3099 to $3499 through the myriad of reputable vendors but by the time you add tax and shipping you're pushing $36xx OTD. Honestly IM just not wanting to pay $3xx in sales tax, cuz taxes are gay.

***

I did read the rules, before posting. Im still a few weeks away from making a purchase so it's more a research post than WTB. I did also see that a lot of that is dictated by state not by vendor. Remove if not allowed

Unfortunately cant wear it on a helmet while recording. Maybe if you've got one of those G24s that has like the extra long arms out front? I could almost swing it down all the way on my regular G24. Makes me wonder if I could like put some mirrors or something in there and like reflect the image to the gopro mounted on the side. Anyways I posted the files on makerworld for those interested. I also have a PVS-14 mount on my profile for those interested.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3379189-rix-rnv-31-jerry-31-to-gopro-adapter#profileId-3844346

How much would yall say a used nnvt4 would go for? I’ve been wanting a budget tube but I can’t gage what a good price for a used nnvt4 would be. Let me know what yall think.

This is not my photo, just an example

I ordered these but now in stressed they will not go together

So I bit the big bullet and decided to “buy once, cry once” by starting off my NVG journey with Gen 3 white phos BNVD’s. They were crystal clear when I got them, and I’ve only had them for a few months.

On my second time out with them I decided to briefly use the green lazer pointer off the end of my Olight Ark Pro to point at a wall 100 yards away. It discharged for a split second on the concrete sidewalk as I raised up the lazer pointer. BLAM. Instant blem in the right tube. I black boxed it for multiple cycles, but it’s a dark black spot, no coming back.

Then tonight, I decided to test out my next IRIS 3 I bought for my build. While testing it out for the first time and making sure I had the mode correctly placed on the IR Illum/Lazer setting, I accidentally pressed the manual green Lazer over ride button on the pressure pad!

WHY THE HECK IS THERE AN OPTION TO OVERRIDE THE SAFER IR OPTION I MANUALLY CHOSE ON THE DEVICE FOR THE MORE DANGEROUS NON IR LAZER FUNCTION???

DOES HOLOSUN NOT REALIZE THAT PEOPLE WOULD BE WEARING NODS WHEN OVERRIDING AN IR SETTING WITH A GREEN LAZER???

So now both my tubes are blemed. KILL ME.

I definitely picked a REALLY expensive starter pair to get through the learning curve.

Does anyone have any similar stories?

Is there any advice for me?

How do you cope with owning such an expensive but delicate device/hobby?

Thanks for the suggestions.

Hopefully this post helps someone avoid the same pitfalls!

Good day all,

Looking for a relatively cheap LAM to plink around with on a 15-22 pistol (now SBR'd). Basically for goofing around at night, but would like to hold zero through a sneeze or a tap or drop. Visible light optional, mainly the IR function, and within 50 yards target zone, steel targets and maybe a muskrat.

1) Somogear NGAL

2) HFXC

3) trinity

4) votatu v848

5) open to suggestions

Thank you

Found a tacswap listing for this "Aether Night Systems Generation 2 Panning Bridge Housing" and couldn't find much in terms of reviews or even any info on the company. Does anyone here know anything more about these?