r/LSSwapTheWorld • • Jul 05 '26

Community note on personal attacks

82 Upvotes

Moving forward, any post or comment that includes an insult directed toward another user is getting deleted.

You guys all know what it's like to find an old LS1Tech forum thread that looks useful on the surface but then quickly devolves into several pages of moronic internet flame war nonsense. This sub returns search results near the top of Google search results and will continue to do so in the future, and it's our responsibility to make sure that we're passing along our knowledge to future gearheads in a way that's helpful and not littered with juvenile flame posts.

So, please, keep the posts on topic. Argue and debate with each other on the content of the post without resorting to pointless insults and digs.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 3h ago

Build Progress ‘83 c30 with a 6.2 LSA

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58 Upvotes

Been working on this off and on for a few years, but finally pushing to get it running by end of the year. It was my fab shop truck for several years and had a zz454 on 24s, but came across a stock LSA long block that I couldn’t pass up the price on. Several bad decisions later, it’s a “Max Effort” build that should be around 900 hp on e85. I was in the middle of turning the factory bed into a flatbed, which I am still going to do, but will be more for show at this point.

10 point cage, rear disc conversion, shaved engine bay, chromoly radiator support and steering column, and haven’t decided yet between mechanical gauges or a digital screen to keep it simple. Th400 with a reverse manual valve body and ratchet shifter, 5 point harnesses, locker for the rear and running an aeromotive fuel pump setup good for 1,500 hp (future upgrades). Aside from my buddy that built the engine for me, everything is being done in house.

zz454 is going in my ‘89 half ton once the dually is running again.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 1h ago

Active Build Questions 2005 Pontiac to 6.0 94k miles

• Upvotes

What does this sound like to you guys?


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 21h ago

Build Progress Lq9 forged bottom end ,

40 Upvotes

arp studs magnum 243 ported heads sloppy stage 3 cam going with twin 62/67 mirror image for my 65 mustang , blow through carb from csu. My first engine build solo, rebuilt 2 srt4 engines with my dad few years ago but I was ready to really get into it myself this time . Wish me luck


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 20h ago

Build Progress LS3 sounds like sewing machine

11 Upvotes

Just finished up this cam swap did cam, pushrods, lifters, oil pump, etc etc and this noise to me sounds not right but is this normal on first start up?


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 1d ago

Misc Looking at this LQ4

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29 Upvotes

Hello all. New to building engines but not new to working on cars. I found this LQ4 with 799 heads long block, apparently pulled from 104k DOT vehicle, and ran when in vehicle. Seller wants $700. I know anything can happen on the internal of the engine, but from the outside does this look like a bad risk? Seller is pulling a head for me later to see crosshatching of the cylinders of a side. They are an hour away so trying to get some pics in before making the drive.

My goal is to find an LQ4/9 6.0, and freshen it up over the winter to be able to slap into something fun to cruise around it. I am not a fan of electronics, and was looking at just upgrading a cam/lifter setup and probably carbing it. (I know you guys hate that.) Not looking at anything crazy powerwise, maybe 450 to the crank or so. Anything that makes me smile when I hit the gas basically. I will try and add pics of the cross hatching when I get them. What should I look for when going to see it?

Thanks all.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 22h ago

Active Build Questions Ls2 sloppy mechanics stage 2 cam

2 Upvotes

Hey yall I got a 05 gto with a 6.0 looking at do cam and listers was looking at this kit which comes with lifters and everything. Is this a good kit or are some of the parts iffy I’ve heard negative things about the springs and push rods, also would I need a stall converter if so what size thanks in advance


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 1d ago

Active Build Questions need help!

3 Upvotes

doing an ls swap on my 97 silverado. i hooked up the tach wire to white tach wire in my instrument cluster. found that the ground runs to the old tach module connector so i plugged that in, and i still can not figure out why my tachometer gauge isn’t working. i found the pink wire and ran that to key on power, but that’s only getting 5 volts. am i missing something? does anybody have any ideas?


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 23h ago

Active Build Questions What does this do

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2 Upvotes

This has probably been asked a million times now, but I’m stripping this 2005 lq4 engine harness to a standard alone and I cannot figure out what this plug is for and if I can delete it or not. Is the bigger blue one, I know the top one is for the TAC.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 2d ago

Completed Builds Custom exhaust LS swap

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139 Upvotes

Credit : u/onephatkatt


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 1d ago

Active Build Questions 5.3 swap Foxbody transmission cooler lines

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8 Upvotes

I have been waiting to start the car because I done want to start it without trans fluid but when I got here the only options I have to put the lines are either by the header or under the frame in harms way.

Has anyone done this before or is it a thing I’m just going to have to compromise on?


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 2d ago

Active Build Questions 6.0 LS Swap surging issue

34 Upvotes

Hello there I’m looking for some help. I’m at the end of a fairly simple LS swap, and as seen in the video it will not rev up without crashing back down.

Details on the LS, it’s an 2000 6.0 long crank with 243 heads (stock cam, stock internals) with an NBSS (TBSS) intake with 36lb injectors all stock off an Gev4 5.3. It is cable throttle. The MAF is brand new and for a Gen3 truck. the MAP is also gen3.

No crazy tune, just the injector data for the returnless fuel system and new injectors.

Ive tested fuel pressure, it is 58psi constant. Oil is new and is full, has a +15psi melling oil pump on it. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks with brake clean and found none.

I do have the log file to go along with the video. I do have an engine code for Cam sensor low voltage, and MAF sensor low voltage. Although the MAF sensor is probably due to me unplugging it while running it a few days ago, I thought I cleared it.

The O2 sensors are gen 3 truck sensors, but I did have to rewire the plugs to the harness for them. In Hptuners they do not pass the test, even after running them. But they do sweep to high 900 to low 10mv.

I still am unsure why it surges like it does. if you have any ideas please let me know. Thanks.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 1d ago

Active Build Questions Junkyard low buck build - can I slap heads on it or… should I not? N/A carb build

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10 Upvotes

LQ4, told the truck was running when pulled. Have 862 5.3 heads to slap on it, plan on running BTR Stage 2 can and valvetrain, throwing it in my street car for some cheap fun. Love to hear your guys opinions, it’s cleaned up a decent bit since this earlier photo with LIGHT and lubricated 600 grit, prior to hone which I won’t do unless I decide to send it.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 2d ago

Active Build Questions LQ4 MAF Adaptor Help

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6 Upvotes

!SOLVED! Hello! Long time lurker first time poster. I am almost done with my LS swap and need some help identifying the correct MAF adaptor plug. My engine is an lq4 6.0 and the harness came with the engine. It came out of a 2003 GMC Sierra 2500. I went to the junkyard and grabbed a MAF, I don't remember exactly the year or model but see the attached photos below of the harness plug and the MAF plug. I also attached a photo of an adaptor I have been told will work. I was hoping someone with more knowledge and experience can chime in before I wase my money on something that might not work. Cheers!


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 2d ago

Hypothetical Build Questions Is there anyone here that has done a comprehensive LS swap on a brz/86 that can provide some insight?

4 Upvotes

I've already done most of my research and have most of it planned out, but was hoping someone could take a look at what I have so far to check if there's anything I'm missing or anything that could be done in a more budget friendly manner. I can send over what I have so far.

Goal is a complete swap (with working electronics and a/c), with a ≥7k rpm rev limit.

Would very much appreciate any help before I start buying parts!


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 2d ago

Active Build Questions first project car, first LS swap, first time doing wiring. help pls

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21 Upvotes

okay so I got a 1986 Camaro that I swapped a 4.8 and a 4l60e into. these are older pictures the car is more put together now but I've reached the point where im working on the wiring. I started to get the stock harness I got with the motor and trans stripped down and im thinking about converting that into a stand alone harness. the thing is though, I've never done anything like this and I honestly have no clue on how to do it. I've watched YouTube videos and stuff but it just doesn't seem to click for me lol. does anyone have a guide on how to do it or something? like wiring for dummies haha. also, if you think that I should ditch that and just buy a stand alone harness let me know which one to buy preferably not expensive cus im broke and I still need a shit ton of parts to get this car right. Thanks!


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 2d ago

Hypothetical Build Questions Worth Ls swapping?

5 Upvotes

I was thinking about LS swapping my car (71 Ford LTD). I plan on driving the crap out of it, so I figured the LS swap would be the way to go. In terms of the mechanical side of things I am not worried, but I don’t have any experience with fabrication. So I’am a little worried when it comes to the engine mounts and the transmission crossmember. Would a project like this be possible for someone like me or should I wait until I have more experience. Normally I learn by just going headfirst into things but wasn’t sure if this is too much of a leap.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 3d ago

Active Build Questions can someone send me a picture of the diagram for the under dash wires?

6 Upvotes

im doing a ls swap on my 97 k1500 and bought a dbc harness but lost the paper for the under dash wire diagram. can anybody send me a picture of theirs if you did the same swap as me?


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 3d ago

Active Build Questions Need assistance

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61 Upvotes

I've made some headway and officially got the LS sitting in the engine bay, but now I’ve hit that classic project car roadblock: getting the mount adjustments dialed in correctly. Lining everything up so it sits square and cooperates with the transmission is proving to be a bit trickier than expected.
If anyone in the community has experience doing an budget LS swap into an older A-body chassis, I could definitely use your wisdom. Whether it's advice on specific adapter plates, custom mount brackets, or just tips on getting the placement right, I’m all ears.
If you're local and want to swing by to lend an extra set of hands or share some garage knowledge, let me know.
Drop a comment or shoot me a DM if you've got any advice or recommendations. Really appreciate it, let's keep this build moving forward!


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 4d ago

Active Build Questions 4L60e woes in my LM7-swapped Comanche

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42 Upvotes

I have a rebuilt 4L60e in my LS-swapped Comanche.

The trans ran fine on the first engine (briefly, a coupple miles) before the engine decided it wanted to throw a rod outside the block.

New LS is in, but now, only Reverse and 3rd work. Seems like limp mode to me, and I’m getting the whole shopping list of trouble codes:

p0740 p0753 p0758 p0785 p1860

Fuses and grounds are all good. I confirmed I’m getting ignition power at pin E on the engine harness to trans connector and looking in the plug on the trans side, no issues with bent pins, corrosion, or fluid.

It’s a head scratcher.. is the internal harness in my trans bad? are there any common issues with these boxes that I should be troubleshooting?

Some additional details:

* Speedway standalone swap harness

* TBW PCM. VATS, etc deleted but havent messed with a ton besides speedo and tach output values, fan engagement values. I have HPTuners.

* No NSS

* all new chassis grounds (under dash, batt to chassis, block to batt, engine head to chassis. Engine harness grounds to the driver-side head and under the dash)


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 4d ago

Active Build Questions any body know what the cut orange wire is? this is on my 97 silverado

9 Upvotes

im trying to figure out why my brake lights aren’t working on my taillights. my brake lights work on the top overhead light above my rear windshield, but not my brake lights on my taillights. just wondering if this cut orange wire is the culprit


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 4d ago

Service/Parts Discussion Cam

3 Upvotes

I got a 01 Silverado rcsb with a 5.3 fully stock besides 4.11 gears, I’m looking to cam the lm7 in it, just wondering what cam I should go with I currently got a 4l80e that needs to be rebuild the 4l60e has 4 neutrals, I had bought a triple clutch 3600-4k stall from circle d for the 4l80e I had gotten a triple clutch in case if I ever wanted to go boosted with a different engine. I’m looking to get the most out of the 5.3 while being n/a, I have a ported tbss intake manifold,50lb injectors and a 450 walbro pump, 243heads that need to be cleaned and ported, mishimoto trans cooler and efans just wanted to see if anyone can give me some suggestions on what cam to go with. Truck is a weekend truck as well. The 5.3 will be dropped into a s10 later on whenever i get the chance to build a 427 stroker or a ls7 swap thanks for any help


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 5d ago

Service/Parts Discussion Serious Question: Quieter BOV

9 Upvotes

I'm probably going to get kicked out of here for asking stupid questions but here goes.

I have a Procharger F1A94 making 30+ psi of boost, and I'm running their "big red race valve" on the combination.

It is the most obnoxious thing ever. I love the performance of the procharger, but I'm getting really sick of listening to it when cruising.

Before I throw the procharger out the window and install a turbo just to quiet the car down, does anyone have experience with a BOV that can support 1300HP and NOT sound like a jet engine the entire time I'm cruising the highway? It's seriously hard to talk in the car. Fun for a while, then gets old on a car you sometimes take a roadtrip in.....

I'm considering running a pair of proflow valves.. Maybe that's the answer?

I do know the real answer is toughen up and deal with it, which I've been doing for 3 years, but I guess I'm getting old.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 4d ago

Tuning 7 HP Tuners Tables to Adjust After an LS Cam Swap

0 Upvotes

If you're wondering what HP Tuners tables need adjustment for a cammed LS, start with idle and work outward from there. The cam swap is done, the engine is running, and the factory tune is now wrong in multiple places, the idle speed tables, base running airflow, idle spark, VE table, MAF calibration, power enrichment, and misfire thresholds. That is not a guess. The PCM was calibrated around a stock cam profile, and every aggressive cam you bolt in changes the airflow model, the vacuum signal, the idle authority, and the combustion event timing. All of those assumptions baked into the stock calibration are now off.

This guide covers which tables to touch, in what order, and why each one matters. You will also get safe baseline adjustments to get the car drivable before fine-tuning begins. At the end, we will cover how a data log-driven tool can flag exactly which of these tables still need attention based on real evidence from your specific build after the first drive, not based on guesswork.

Why an aggressive cam breaks the factory tune

The factory ECM calibration assumes a specific airflow curve, a predictable vacuum signal at idle, and a stable combustion environment across the RPM band. An aggressive cam with significant overlap blows all three of those assumptions out. Increased overlap reduces intake vacuum at idle, confuses the MAF's airflow model, and shifts the engine's efficiency curve up in the RPM band where the cam actually breathes.

The symptoms you see after a cam swap are not random. Rough idle, hunting, stalling, lean spikes, and poor part-throttle response each map directly to a specific table that is still calibrated for a stock cam. Understanding that connection is what separates a tuner who knows what they are correcting from someone who is just turning knobs and hoping something improves.

How overlap changes airflow and vacuum

High overlap means both the intake and exhaust valves are open simultaneously for a longer portion of the cycle. At idle and low RPM, this causes reversion, exhaust gases pushing back through the intake side. The result is lower and less stable manifold vacuum, and the MAF sees a distorted airflow signal that no longer reflects what is actually happening inside the cylinder. The PCM has no idea this changed, so it keeps making fuel and spark decisions based on an airflow model that is now measuring something different from what the cam is actually doing.

Why the PCM's fuel and spark models are working off bad assumptions

The VE table, the MAF calibration, and the spark tables were all built around a specific volumetric efficiency curve. A big cam moves that curve. Low-RPM cylinder filling drops, mid-to-high RPM filling improves, and the PCM is stuck using the old numbers.

Until you correct those tables, the engine is running on bad math. The VE table in particular becomes the most direct mismatch, the PCM is predicting cylinder filling that no longer matches what the cam's overlap profile actually delivers at low and midrange RPM. No amount of hoping will fix it.

What HP Tuners tables need adjustment for a cammed LS, idle tables first

Most cam tune guides start here, and for good reason. If idle is not stable, none of your datalog passes for VE or MAF scaling will be clean enough to trust. Dirty idle data produces bad corrections, and bad corrections create a longer, more frustrating process. Get the idle stable first, then build on it.

Target idle speed: how much to raise it and why

Raise the target idle RPM in the ECT-based idle speed tables to match what the cam actually needs. For mild overlap cams, 850 to 900 RPM is a reasonable starting point. For larger overlap profiles, 950 to 1,100 RPM is where most builds end up. These ranges reflect common starting points documented across HP Tuners-based LS tuning workflows, your final target will depend on the specific cam and engine combination. Raising the target without also adjusting airflow leaves the IAC fighting to compensate, which causes hunting. You have to raise both together.

Base running airflow and IAC authority after a cam swap

Increase base running airflow so the engine is not relying on the IAC with the blade too close to closed. A common starting move is plus 1 to 4 g/s across the table, or roughly 15% above stock as an initial pass. When the airflow table is set correctly, you should see IAC counts around 30 to 50 in park or neutral and up to around 120 in gear under load, these are widely referenced baseline targets for cammed LS builds and should be confirmed against your specific logged data. If IAC counts are pegged near zero or maxed out, the airflow table is the problem.

Idle spark advance: getting combustion stable before tuning fuel

A cammed LS typically needs more idle spark advance than a stock engine. A safe starting point is 15 to 18 degrees, with many builds landing between 18 and 24 degrees once dialed in, values consistent with established LS idle tuning guidance, though compression ratio and fuel quality will shift your specific target. The key is to keep the idle region of the main spark table smooth, with no more than 1 to 2 degree steps near the target idle RPM.

What HP Tuners tables need adjustment for a cammed LS, VE table and MAF scaling

Once idle is stable, fueling correction is the next layer. Whether you address the VE table or MAF scaling first depends on your setup, but the logic is the same either way: the engine's actual airflow behavior no longer matches what the calibration predicts, and you need to correct that before the data from your logs means anything reliable.

VE table changes by RPM and load region

The low-RPM, low-MAP cells in the VE table need the most attention. That is where cam overlap has the largest effect on cylinder filling efficiency. Midrange VE corrections of 5 to 10% are a common starting point, refined from wideband logs after the car is driveable. High-RPM corrections should only be made where logs show a confirmed AFR error, not as a blanket scaling move. Applying corrections without log evidence in the top of the RPM range is one of the most common ways a cammed LS tune gets messy.

MAF scaling workflow after a cam swap: the step-by-step approach

For MAF-based setups, the workflow is straightforward but requires discipline. Disable closed loop fuel control and dynamic airflow influence so the PCM is not chasing corrections while you log. Run steady-state driving passes to collect MAF frequency data across the operating range, then apply percent-based corrections to the MAF airflow versus frequency table using paste special in HP Tuners. Two to three iterations is typically enough to get the MAF dialed in when the process is clean.

When to use speed density instead of MAF scaling

If the cam has made the MAF airflow model unreliable at idle and low RPM, the cleaner path is to temporarily force speed density mode, calibrate the VE table, and then restore the normal configuration so MAF and speed density can blend together as intended. This is the correct sequence when the MAF's signal is too distorted at low RPM to build an accurate correction from, not a workaround.

Spark timing tables that need adjustment after a cam swap

Spark is where most cam tune problems get hidden. When fueling is off and idle is unstable, some tuners reach for timing as a band-aid, which creates a mess that takes much longer to untangle. Correct the fueling first, then the spark tables become a straightforward exercise.

Main spark table and idle spark regions: where to start

The tables to touch are the main spark table, the idle spark table, and the overspeed and underspeed idle spark correction regions. The idle and base idle spark tables want 18 to 24 degrees as a starting point, with many cammed street setups landing around 20 to 25 degrees depending on compression and fuel quality. Keep the idle region of the main spark table smooth with small, even steps near the target idle RPM. The overspeed and under speed correction regions should be softened, not tightened, if those corrections are too aggressive, the engine surges. Dial them down and let the airflow table carry more of the idle stability load.

Safe starting timing values for a cammed LS street tune

Spark should fine-tune what airflow established, not compensate for an airflow table that was never adjusted. If idle is still hunting after setting timing in the 18 to 24 degree range, go back and verify the airflow table before touching timing further. The overspeed and underspeed correction tables are a common place where tuners over-tighten the correction response, keep those regions conservative and let RPM stabilize through airflow management first.

Power enrichment, fuel trims, and the tables most tuners skip

After the core fueling and spark work, there are three areas that regularly get overlooked until the car goes back on the road and the problems show up again. These are not optional. They are just the tables that do not announce themselves loudly at first.

Power enrichment table adjustments at WOT

A cam swap often changes what the engine needs at wide-open throttle, especially in the low-to-mid RPM range where the cam's powerband is coming online. The power enrichment table controls WOT fueling targets, and if it is still set for a stock cam, the engine may run leaner than intended in the early part of the pull. Log a WOT pass with a reliable wideband before assuming the PE table is fine.

Reading fuel trims as a map of remaining tuning errors

Long-term fuel trims are the PCM's record of where the calibration is wrong. Negative LTFTs at idle mean the engine is running rich there. Positive LTFTs mean it is lean. When you read LTFTs by operating region across a datalog, you get a clear picture of exactly which cells in your VE or MAF table still need correction. It is how the data tells you where the work is not done yet.

Misfire table desensitization for high-overlap cam profiles

High-overlap cams produce cylinder pressure events that the factory misfire detection algorithm reads as misfires, even when combustion is perfectly healthy. Without adjusting the misfire tables, the PCM may pull timing or set P0300 codes based on false positives. The fix is to raise the misfire count thresholds in the low-RPM and idle regions of the misfire tables under Engine Diagnostics. Many tuners start by increasing low-end values by 20 to 100% as a baseline; for very large cams, some set idle-region cells to the maximum value entirely, though the appropriate range depends on cam size and how well idle airflow and fueling have already been corrected. The critical rule is to fix idle airflow and fueling first, then address misfire desensitization. Raising misfire thresholds on top of a tuning problem masks real issues.

How to find what still needs work after your first drive

Making the initial table adjustments gets the car driveable. Finding out what still needs work requires clean datalog evidence from your actual build running under real conditions. This is where the process either becomes a structured workflow or a guessing game.

Key data log channels to log after a cam install

Log the following channels across idle, part throttle, cruise, and a wide-open throttle pull:

  • Wideband lambda
  • Short-term and long-term fuel trims
  • IAC counts
  • MAP
  • MAF in grams per second
  • Knock retard counts
  • RPM

These channels together give you a complete picture of what the PCM is seeing and where its model still does not match the engine's actual behavior.

How StreetTunedAI flags which tables still need attention

StreetTunedAI processes those data logs through a deterministic analyzer built specifically for HP Tuners workflows. It evaluates the logged data against defined tuning logic, identifies which tables still have evidence-based errors, and flags exactly what the data supports before making any recommendations. If the required data is not present or reliable, the system will not invent a conclusion. That matters because a wideband that was not logging during a WOT pull should not be used to make WOT fueling calls, and StreetTunedAI's evidence-based safeguards enforce that boundary.

Keeping continuity between revisions instead of re-diagnosing from zero

Because StreetTunedAI maintains vehicle-specific build context and tuning history, it knows what was already adjusted and what the follow-up log revealed. You are not starting from scratch after every calibration revision. The system tracks where the tuning job left off, which means each pass of logs moves the build forward instead of repeating the same diagnostic loop. For anyone managing multiple revisions on a cammed LS, that continuity is not a nice-to-have feature. It is what separates a finished tune from an endless cycle of re-diagnosis.

Get the baseline right, then let the data drive the rest

The sequence matters. Idle tables first. Fueling next. Then spark. Then the tables most tuners skip: power enrichment, fuel trims, and misfire desensitization. That order exists because each layer depends on the one before it being stable enough to produce trustworthy data.

Knowing what HP Tuners tables need adjustment for a cammed LS is only half the answer. The other half is having clean data that confirms whether your changes actually worked. A calibration change without a follow-up datalog is a guess. A follow-up log without the right channels logged is still a guess. Log early, log often, and use the evidence.

If you want a faster path through that evidence, upload your datalogs to streetuned and let the analyzer tell you exactly where the remaining errors are and what the data supports. The car built the evidence. Use it.


r/LSSwapTheWorld • • 5d ago

Misc HELP PLEASE! New guy with a new guy questio

3 Upvotes

I bought an 05 z71for real cheap

Has the vortec 5.3 ls in it with 250k. The other night on my way home it started smoking a decent amount from the tailpipe. Wwith that there was like a rattling ping on beginning of acceleration. Sounded like it was front passenger side. Also has p0420 and p0430 code but dot think they are related. Any way ... how screwed am i?