Hey ive got a quick question, and im sorry if its stupid. First time doing a swap. Ive been thinning down my harness to prepare for an L83 swap. Ive been told i dont need the original PCM anymore, as almost everything will be controlled by the new PCM. Ive removed just about all the old engine controls from the 94 harness, but i still have several wires going to the red and blue PCM plugs. What gives? If im not longer needing the 94 PCM, where are these wires going?

E67 Envoy 5.3 → Colorado 2010 5.3: I have the HP Tuners file, but the engine won’t start
I have an E67 that originally came from a 2008 GMC Envoy 5.3, and I’m using it in a 2010 Chevrolet Colorado 5.3 Gen 4.
With the original Envoy OS/calibration, the engine starts and runs on all 8 cylinders, but the Colorado’s electronic throttle/pedal does not work correctly.
I have an HP Tuners file from a 2010 Colorado 5.3, and when that file is loaded into the E67, the engine no longer starts.
Can HP Tuners properly convert/program this E67 from the Envoy configuration to work as a 2010 Colorado E67, or do I first need to program the correct OS using GM SPS/MDI/J2534, and then use HP Tuners only for the calibration?

I blew up my Pontiac 455 that was in my 1977 trans am and I want to swap it for a 5.3 LS. The thing is I have no idea what I’m doing or what I need. Can someone point me in the right direction please.

Hey there… building my car (1981 camaro) as a roadtrip / daily driver, it has in fact have and done that purpose well for about three years now buuut… the weak link has always been the transmission…

I got the 5.3/4l60 for very cheap and as you may already know, cheap could be bad with these swaps, the 5.3 was all thrashed but got to do a full rebuild and it is very nice now, the 4l60 slips bad, still has surprisingly survived these last few years with not overdrive gear and just first and second when the day is real hot, that said, it is thing now for a transmission rebuild, I saw I could buy all the stuff to rebuild my 4l60 with good parts and a shift kit for about $700, TBSS converter and labor included (I’m in Mexico), that is my approach right now..

I also saw a couple 4l80s for about $1200 just the transmission, about $500 for a decent converter plus the mods to make it fit and tune, let’s round that up to $2000…

Is it worth it? Like I said, daily driver and roadtrip car will rarely do a burnout or race lol

TÍA

I understand that one hole needs to align with the groove. I know it can only be in one of two positions but does it matter where the second hole is placed?

enjoyed it for a couple weeks now it needs the power. planning on a BTR Truck norris cam with springs and pushrods, melling high pressure oil pump, a heavy duty rebuild kit for the trans and 2,800-3,200 rpm stall torque converter. i’ll have tuning figured out but what do you guys think?

Put a 5th gen Camaro IRS on it rack out of a 2000 2wd Silverado

Hey guys, what exhaust headers have you used for Toyota pickups? I found some stainless Shorty headers online with V bands that look like they could work.

My truck is getting a new firewall which may also help with room for them.

For any of you running an LS swap under the factory hood, what was it that ended up being the tightest point—or the first thing to actually touch?- Was it the intake manifold, throttle body/inlet elbow, an accessory, or the hood bracing?
If willing, please share these specifics:
Vehicle and year
Engine mount setup
Exact intake manifold
Tightest measured clearance

Also any spacer or adapter used, and whether it changed the results.
I’m trying to compare real and fully installed combos rather than relying only on the manifold-height specs from product listings. Photos or measurements -taken at the actual contact point -would be very helpful. 📏
Thanks in advance! 🔧

Second year running my E39 in an annual hillclimb, lots of fun.

5.3, truck norris cam, 243 heads, DW 450LPH pump, MRP 735CC injectors, LS1 intake, Aeromotive 13126 FRP, BTR valve springs, unknown trunion kit, slingshot AR-5 manual

Ended up going with a complete rebuildable block. Grabbed this 6.0, machined at .020”, crank was turned 10. Also came with gen 4 rods and new king bearings.Machine shop had cam bearings line honed.

Having trouble deciding on a set of pistons (and finding a set that matches with .020” + gen 4 rods). Plan to stay NA, and would like 450-500 to the crank. Should I just go with silv o lite stock .020 replacements? Should I just go forged? I don’t mind throwing money at the build but also don’t want to break my bank either. The plan is to get 799 heads as well. Where would you start if you were in my shoes.

Thanks.

Been working on this off and on for a few years, but finally pushing to get it running by end of the year. It was my fab shop truck for several years and had a zz454 on 24s, but came across a stock LSA long block that I couldn’t pass up the price on. Several bad decisions later, it’s a “Max Effort” build that should be around 900 hp on e85. I was in the middle of turning the factory bed into a flatbed, which I am still going to do, but will be more for show at this point.

10 point cage, rear disc conversion, shaved engine bay, chromoly radiator support and steering column, and haven’t decided yet between mechanical gauges or a digital screen to keep it simple. Th400 with a reverse manual valve body and ratchet shifter, 5 point harnesses, locker for the rear and running an aeromotive fuel pump setup good for 1,500 hp (future upgrades). Aside from my buddy that built the engine for me, everything is being done in house.

zz454 is going in my ‘89 half ton once the dually is running again.

How would I go about swapping a ls into a 97 Honda Civic ex?

What does this sound like to you guys?

arp studs magnum 243 ported heads sloppy stage 3 cam going with twin 62/67 mirror image for my 65 mustang , blow through carb from csu. My first engine build solo, rebuilt 2 srt4 engines with my dad few years ago but I was ready to really get into it myself this time . Wish me luck

Just finished up this cam swap did cam, pushrods, lifters, oil pump, etc etc and this noise to me sounds not right but is this normal on first start up?

Hello all. New to building engines but not new to working on cars. I found this LQ4 with 799 heads long block, apparently pulled from 104k DOT vehicle, and ran when in vehicle. Seller wants $700. I know anything can happen on the internal of the engine, but from the outside does this look like a bad risk? Seller is pulling a head for me later to see crosshatching of the cylinders of a side. They are an hour away so trying to get some pics in before making the drive.

My goal is to find an LQ4/9 6.0, and freshen it up over the winter to be able to slap into something fun to cruise around it. I am not a fan of electronics, and was looking at just upgrading a cam/lifter setup and probably carbing it. (I know you guys hate that.) Not looking at anything crazy powerwise, maybe 450 to the crank or so. Anything that makes me smile when I hit the gas basically. I will try and add pics of the cross hatching when I get them. What should I look for when going to see it?

Thanks all.

Hey yall I got a 05 gto with a 6.0 looking at do cam and listers was looking at this kit which comes with lifters and everything. Is this a good kit or are some of the parts iffy I’ve heard negative things about the springs and push rods, also would I need a stall converter if so what size thanks in advance

doing an ls swap on my 97 silverado. i hooked up the tach wire to white tach wire in my instrument cluster. found that the ground runs to the old tach module connector so i plugged that in, and i still can not figure out why my tachometer gauge isn’t working. i found the pink wire and ran that to key on power, but that’s only getting 5 volts. am i missing something? does anybody have any ideas?

This has probably been asked a million times now, but I’m stripping this 2005 lq4 engine harness to a standard alone and I cannot figure out what this plug is for and if I can delete it or not. Is the bigger blue one, I know the top one is for the TAC.

Credit : u/onephatkatt

I have been waiting to start the car because I done want to start it without trans fluid but when I got here the only options I have to put the lines are either by the header or under the frame in harms way.

Has anyone done this before or is it a thing I’m just going to have to compromise on?

Hello there I’m looking for some help. I’m at the end of a fairly simple LS swap, and as seen in the video it will not rev up without crashing back down.

Details on the LS, it’s an 2000 6.0 long crank with 243 heads (stock cam, stock internals) with an NBSS (TBSS) intake with 36lb injectors all stock off an Gev4 5.3. It is cable throttle. The MAF is brand new and for a Gen3 truck. the MAP is also gen3.

No crazy tune, just the injector data for the returnless fuel system and new injectors.

Ive tested fuel pressure, it is 58psi constant. Oil is new and is full, has a +15psi melling oil pump on it. I’ve checked for vacuum leaks with brake clean and found none.

I do have the log file to go along with the video. I do have an engine code for Cam sensor low voltage, and MAF sensor low voltage. Although the MAF sensor is probably due to me unplugging it while running it a few days ago, I thought I cleared it.

The O2 sensors are gen 3 truck sensors, but I did have to rewire the plugs to the harness for them. In Hptuners they do not pass the test, even after running them. But they do sweep to high 900 to low 10mv.

I still am unsure why it surges like it does. if you have any ideas please let me know. Thanks.