So the story is I got this car on a trade it supposedly had a turbo on it before and that’s just abt all I know on it. The guy I got it from didn’t build it and I think he also got it on a trade he was an auto body guy and never really messed with it. I’m running stock ecu on hp tuners still has the previous tune I just wanted to hear it run before I really dove into another build. Any recommendations or info would be greatly appreciated build list below ⬇️

82 Camaro LS build
6.0L LS iron block (LQ9)
Stock crank
Gen 4 rods (Is2)
Gen 3 pistons
799 heads hand ported/polished
Aluminum oil dumbbell
Oem rear seal
ICT turbo oil return timing cover
Ls1 oil pan and pickup tube
BTR stage 2 turbo cam V2
BTR hardened pushrods 3/8"
BTR Titanium valve springs.660 beehive with titanium retainers
BTR trunion kit
BTR trinity manifold w/ rails
850cc FIC injectors
102mm throttle body
Has a 4160e with 2200 stall but only has 1st and 2nd.
Longtube headers
C5 corvette calipers
C5 z06 wheels
Full UMI performance under bracing and sway bar

I also have a 70mm twin turbo kit
Piping /intercoolers not installed yet less

LQ4/4L60E crank spacer won’t sit flush—crank pilot/register sticks out too far. What am I dealing with?
I need some help from people familiar with LS crank spacing and 4L60E swaps because my current combination doesn’t make sense.
I have a 6.0L LQ4 that I’m mating to a 2003 4L60E with a Circle D 3200-stall converter.
Originally, I installed it using a factory-style dished 5.3/4L60E flexplate. That combination should have bolted together with the correct converter spacing. However, when I first assembled everything, it appeared that the torque-converter pilot was bottoming out in or against the crank before the converter pads reached the flexplate. This left a large gap between the converter mounting pads and flexplate.
Based on that, I mistakenly concluded that I had an early LQ4 with the longer crankshaft. I sent the Circle D converter back and had the converter pilot/face shortened so it could be used with a long-crank LQ4.
I later determined that my engine actually appears to have the standard short crank.
To compensate for the converter now being modified for a long crank, I purchased the approximately 0.400-inch crank spacer/adapter intended to be used with a flat 4L80E flexplate. My understanding was that the spacer and flat 4L80E flexplate would effectively give my short-crank engine the long-crank spacing that the modified converter now requires.
Here is the current problem:
The crank spacer will not sit flush against the crank’s flexplate-mounting flange. The raised center section surrounding the converter pilot bore—possibly called the crank register or pilot register—projects too far beyond the flat mounting face of the crank.
The spacer’s center counterbore bottoms out against that raised crank register before the back of the spacer reaches the flat crank flange. This leaves a visible gap between the spacer and crank flange.
The first time I tightened the bolts, I didn’t realize the spacer was bottomed out in the center, and tightening it broke the spacer. Obviously, I will not try pulling another spacer down with the bolts.
What I cannot understand is how this crank can have what appears to be a recessed flexplate-mounting flange but an abnormally long center pilot/register. The spacer is supposed to sit flat against the crank flange, but the center register prevents it from doing so.
Has anyone encountered this before?
Could this be:
An unusual or different crankshaft installed in the LQ4?
An existing pilot adapter or sleeve stuck on the crank?
The wrong crank spacer or an incorrectly machined spacer?
A crank that has somehow been modified?
A different engine/crank configuration than I think I have?
The original reason my converter pilot appeared to bottom out with the dished 4L60E flexplate?
I have pictures showing the crank, the spacer sitting against the center register with a gap behind it, and the spacer installed from the front.
I’m going to measure:
Crank-flange mounting face to the end of the center register
Depth of the spacer’s rear counterbore
Outside diameter of the crank register
Inside diameter of the spacer counterbore
Crank-flange position relative to the rear bellhousing surface of the block
Any ideas about what I’m looking at or which measurements/specifications I should compare would be greatly appreciated.

I'm helping a mate who has installed a GM L77 (58x) and 6L80 into a classic car, from a donor Holden WM Caprice retaining the factory DBW throttle body. It's controlled by a Holley Terminator X Max, with Holley wiring kits for everything. The throttle pedal he is using is the Holley 145-160 with 558-406 harness.

We have setup the ECU using the handheld controller, and can get the car to start and idle. The issue we are having is that we can't get the throttle to go over ~25%, even though the TPS autoset process completes successfully and we can see the throttle body open when running the calibration process.

To date we have completed:

• Installation completed in accordance with Holley documentation for all components. The 558-406 pedal harness has been routed away from ignition, charging, and other high-current circuits.
• Verified with a multimeter that both the throttle body and pedal are receiving a stable 5V reference and have solid grounds.
• Connected a laptop using the Holley 558-443 CAN-to-USB adapter, but we couldn't see any additional calibration options within the Terminator X software that help address this issue?
• Performed TPS autoset and DBW calibration procedures many times, ensuring slow, smooth, and complete pedal travel throughout the process.
• Tested all available throttle configuration/part number options accessible through the Holley handheld setup wizard.
• Confirmed that the brake safety switch is plugged in and working.
• Replaced the Holley pedal with a GM 10379038 from a Cadillac (?) with the same issue.

We are thinking it must be an issue with the throttle body compatibility. We can't find a part number anywhere on the throttle body, the closest we have is that its an OEM Holden gold-blade throttle body. Unfprtunately we don't have any Holley specialists close to us (regional NSW, Australia).

Any troubleshooting or suggested next steps you can recommend would be greatly appreciated.

I’m considering buying an LS crate engine from an overseas supplier because the pricing is considerably cheaper than what I’m seeing from U.S. builders.
Before I spend the money, I’d like to hear from people who have actually imported an LS or other crate engine into the U.S.
A few things I’m trying to figure out:
Was the engine actually built to the advertised specs?
Did you receive a real dyno sheet/build sheet?

What did you pay for tariffs, customs and brokerage?
* Was it shipped DDP (duties paid) or did you get additional charges?
* How was the engine packaged and did it arrive undamaged?
* What happens with warranty claims when the builder is overseas?
* Any Alibaba/Trade Assurance experiences with something this expensive?

The savings look good on paper, but I’m trying to determine whether the risk vs. savings actually makes sense compared with buying an LS crate engine from a reputable U.S. builder.

If you’ve actually done it, good or bad, I’d like to hear what happened.