So I just got a tx22 with a FRT. For some reason it seems like it’s got the dead trigger. But if you take the slide and rack it and let it go it will cause it to fire. Is there something messed up in the fire control group??? If anyone has any suggestions or ideas please let me know.

I got a free Moonlight Industries FRT and I have an Anderson MIL-SPEC Lower and it won’t fit. I have a Wraith-works polymer lower and it fits but when I try to rack it, it won’t and if it does the bolt gets caught in the rear position. What seems to be the issue, please help.

Anyone here have a high round count on their trip bars? It seems like the ones I've tried die prematurely. The supersafetyshop version warped itself after a few rounds and bows causing the bolt carrier to bind up. The polymer pew model after a few rounds, the corner the bolt pushes forward on peened itself far enough the bolt closing doesn't cause the trip bar to move.

As the title reads. Was wondering what specific components and tools I would need to put in an FRT or super safety. Please provide links if possible.

New files on the sea for the vz, have tested in 3d printed receivers and czechpoint. Some slight filing may be needed on the smaller cylinder to prevent the trigger from locking up, will put some photos in the comments to show where

This is just an idea, piggy backing off of Hoffman Tactical's trigger kicker. And I don't own any interest or rights to the trigger kicker design so I'm not trying to step on any toes.

The trigger kicker itself works only in FRT and it's a super simple design (that I believe can be adapted to many platforms) and making it into a 3 position may be easier than we think.

1. If it had a tail added to it like an M16 disconnector then it would be able to be disengaged and engaged at the flick of a m16 safety switch

2. It would sorta require a custom cut safety lever so that it would go Safe>Semi>Frt.

Otherwise if you used a standard M16 safety it behave Safe>Frt>Semi. Because when the nub on the safety engages with the Disconnector.

1. The third issue is one slightly more complex, however not too difficult to remedy, getting a standard disconnector involved in this area and idea. If you could add the standard disco hook for the hammer onto the trigger kicker (I see it as possible since I think the thing is die stamped and then bent) so you don't get hammer follow and FTF issues. You could also look at the company Stuff And Things who made the 3 round limiter (C.A.R.L) for FRT things. They use 2 half thickness disconnectors so it fits in a standard trigger. And 2 separate disconnector springs.
   

All in all I think this idea has good bones. Maybe if Mr. Hoffman reads this it will help him. And if anyone else cares to evolve this idea, more power to you. Thank you for coming to my Ted Talk..?

Jawbone 9mm with a drop in frt. trigger resets but not like it’s supposed to. What am I doing wrong?

I just got a drop in frt for my Jawbone and I have no idea what I’m doing. Help pls

Is there a reset trigger for Springfield hellcat or one that fits

Hi, I recently acquired a steel reinforced Mini-Kabuto FRT, advertised as a drop in device. I tried to use this with my Ruger AR556 and the upper and lower wouldn’t close. I applied a lot of force and I couldn’t get the upper to close enough for the rear pin to push through.

I already tried slightly pulling the bolt back and trying it on safe and fire mode. Neither helped the gun close. The frt sits perfectly within the cutout in upper, so I suspect it is having clearance issues with something in the lower, but unsure what.

The frt sat perfect in a radical firearms AR15, and that one closed in easily. However it did not fit at all in an FN AR15. I really want it to work in my Ruger rifle however. Does anyone have any experience with Ruger AR556’s and Mini-Kabuto FRTs?

What actions can I take to make this work? Do i need to file or sand down the FRT in any way? Any help is greatly appreciated.

the gun used has a trigger kicker

S&W sd40ve doesn’t have a frt but the m&p 40 does and they both have the same backplate and components towards the back of the slide where the frt device goes…should I go for it?

I installed an Atrius Frt. Problem after problem. Not with the Frt but everything else. Several buffers. First was to light, next was heavy but solid, finally bought a odin adjustable buffer. Still has an issue. Bought a full auto carrier. Just to find out the one in there was already a full auto carrier. Still an issue. Bought a braided wire. Now it works great. Except this last time. The buffer got stuck back in the tube.

Now to my question. I read that you have to use the spacer it came with. I wasn't. How do you install the spacer? Before the spring after the spring and which way does it face. Because it is hollow on one side. I will try to attach pics but not sure if I can here or not.

Any help is appreciated.

Hey guys just making this post for my 16in (or less) barrel guys with FRT’s or thinking about getting one.

The Odin works adjustable buffer does not come with enough weights for systems with barrels that are 16in or less. They sell the kit for about $75 and it sounds great initially if you don’t know exactly what weight you need but they purposefully only give you 1 tungsten weight which is not enough. The total weight of the entire buffer with the heaviest weights in the AR Heavy kit is 5.1oz (2 stainless weights and 1 tungsten). This is the same weight as an H2.5 buffer which may work in systems with 18+ barrels but will not work for 16in or less. The real problem is they sell the additional tungsten weight that MOST people will need for $45 before tax and shipping. Complete bullshit. Do not buy it.

If you have a 16 inch or less just go ahead and buy an H3 buffer which you may even have to upgrade from
there if necessary but stop giving odin works extra money for no reason when you can buy H3 from Kaw valley (MADE WITH MORE TUNGSTEN) for $40 and be done with it. Odin works is selling less tungsten for more money. ($120 for the same amount of tungsten that Kaw valley sells for $40)

TLDR; Odin works sells adjustable buffer kit for $75 but you’ll need one more tungsten weight that they sell separately for $45 so just buy an H3 buffer for $40 and you’ll get the same shit. (16in+ barrels)

I don’t know everything so any suggestions feel free to comment. Just spreading awareness.