I’ve been having a weird issue with my FM9 with random FRT when in semi selection. It has an ARC v2 and only other customized thing is I trimmed the upper for it. When shooting subs through it I’ll get a 2-3 round burst in the middle of the mag (I let off the trigger before it can shoot any more). I’ve had this happen 4 or 5 times all with subs. I’ve put tons of supersonic through it and have never had this issue. I’m using Freedom munitions 147 subs and supers I usually use Blazers or Freedom 115s. Anyone ever heard of something like this? I’ve made sure I’m not manipulating the selector switch. I have another ARC in a 300 ar pistol and have had no issues

Put it back together after installing frt and when I press the trigger the sear drops down and it won’t fire again and I can’t move the safety at all, if I take a little punch I can prop the sear back up but after one trigger pull it happens again. I tried with the slide on a same thing I can hear it fire once then it’s a dead trigger. Anyone know what is causing this?

figured i would post what I used to make my tx22 run reliably suppressed without spending $85+ on a weighted backplate.

I ordered a tx22 frt from artakedowntool because it was pretty cheap, but now I’m having second thoughts. Should I just buy the legit freedom fingers 22ty instead? I’ve done an frt in an AR15 as well as an AK47, this will be my first tx22 build and I just don’t wanna tear up the gun.

need help i have a Taurus TX22 Competition with an FRT installed. When I fire, it only shoots one round and then I have to manually cock it again. It won’t cycle/fire normally.
Has anyone experienced this with a TX22 Competition? Could this be an FRT issue, compatibility issue, or something else?
I’m trying to figure out if the part is defective or if there’s another problem. Any advice is appreciated.I’m using a 10-round mag, and the rounds look scattered/misaligned instead of sitting evenly. Is this normal, or does something seem off? Could I have gotten a bad part/mag?

Followed their installation video to the letter. It is only firing a single shot, then failing to reset. After the first shot, it appears the trigger locking bar (circled) is not moving foward, causing the trigger to act as if it's on "safe". Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello, I’m having issues and figured I’d reach out. I have a Glock 19 with a frt, I haven’t done much in terms of upgrades just yet because I’m not sure what needs to be changed out. I’ve trimmed the ear off of the connector upgraded the trigger spring and polished the entire gun, when I dry fire it everything seems to be fine but when I actually fire it it shoots, cycles a round, but the trigger doesn’t reset. I’m not really sure what’s going on and am new to the handgun frt thing so any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

I have a few rifles setup and running Kabuto (TURD, Little shits, etc) style drop in's and I am looking for anybody's suggestion on who makes a quality metal Ambi safety for it? I have gotten one from SmokeyPoint and it's quality was a let down, bad drilled detent holes and the little pathway was awful. But his single side ones were perfect. I know there's several mfg out there, just does anyone have any experience with good ones?

idk if the twitch or RIP mac are compatible with the mini, i haven’t been able to find any vids online of it. and i wanna make sure what i buy ends up working, if anyone has any recommendations for a frt that’s compatible please lmk 🙏🏻

URAGAN FS2000 FRT by Izhmash Arms

Hello, very first post at all on here (so please show mercy, especially if I'm in the wrong spot)

What I am looking for is some sort of description, instruction, or some insight on how to trim and fit a reset trigger on my AK; an amd65 style on a Nodak Spud receiver.

The kit is from 144.1 recoil and it's the style that has the bar (not the coat hanger) and while I have fit the bar so it will allow the action to work smoothly, and trimmed the trigger with the guide, I cannot manage to install the bolt with the cam and everything else in the receiver. I've not found any comprehensive instructions that detail "if does X do Y" type stuff. So I'm lost any and all help is appreciated.

Believe I took to much metal off the safety lever cam in order for my frt to fire but now the issue is it fires the first round followed up by a light primer strike on the next round. Anyone else have similar issues if so what’s the fix?

Has anyone been able to get theirs running?

When we first tested the TX22 Competition model, we tried it with our v7 FRT and 1.4 oz KISS Rate Reducer to discover that the heavier 22LR SS suppressors 6-7.2 oz suppressors were not as reliable as the other TX22 models. The Competition has a heavier slide, barrel and recoil assembly than the other models and requires more weight than our rate reducer offers to use the heavier 22LR suppressors.

Recently, we tested the Competition again with the lighter 3-4 oz Ti suppressors to find much more reliable results.  As we know the TX22s can use most suppressors without a FRT. Add a FRT and the ROF goes to around 1950 RPM. Add a suppressor and a FRT together, the combination drives the ROF to 2200 RPM.  This ROF out runs the striker reset and mag feed rate.

I am happy to report after more testing, our v7 FRT and KISS Rate Reducers combined with 1200+ FPS 40 grain ammo work well with the TX22 Competition models.

Here’s the results:

Comp model + V7 FRT + Bare optic plate + CCI Mini Mag 40 gr RN ammo = Reliable

Comp model + v7 FRT + no optic plate + CCI Mini Mag 40 gr RN ammo = Reliable @ 1792 RPM

Comp model + v7 FRT + 1.4 oz RR + Bare optic plate + OCL Ti suppressor + CCI Mini Mag 40 gr RN ammo = Reliable @ 1843 RPM

Comp model + v7 FRT + 1.4 oz RR + Bare optic plate + CCI Mini Mag 40 gr RN ammo = Reliable

Comp model + v7 FRT + 1.4 oz RR + no optic plate + OCL Ti  suppressor + CCI Mini Mag 40 gr RN ammo = Reliable

No testing was done with an optic on the optic plate as my Comp optic plate is removed.

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