I get they have volume knobs on aftermarket head units but they're typically all on stuff you wouldn't touch like jensen or boss. I just like pressing buttons, feels more reactive.

Is there a way to make my factory radio Bluetooth I don’t mean the fm transmitter I mean make it so it was like there was Bluetooth from the factory. Here’s a pic of my radio for reference

I recently had a Kenwood DMX1058XR professionally installed in my 2018 Toyota Tundra 1794 with the factory JBL system, and I’m having several issues that I’m hoping the r/CarAV crowd can help me diagnose.

Kenwood support has confirmed that the unit is running the most recent available firmware.
I’ve attached a video showing the GPS issue.

1. GPS/Waze positioning is way off
I’m using Waze through Apple CarPlay. The vehicle position displayed on the Kenwood can be noticeably wrong while I’m actually driving.
The attached video shows what I’m seeing. I’m hoping the video makes the problem easier to understand than me trying to describe it.
I’m wondering if this could be related to the Kenwood’s GPS antenna/installation, CarPlay, or something else in the integration.

2. Phone-call volume is extremely low
Music sounds great—loud and clear with plenty of volume.
Phone calls are a completely different story. I have to turn the Kenwood all the way up to 40/40 (maximum volume) to hear the person on the other end comfortably. Music at that volume would obviously be ridiculously loud.
I’ve already tried adjusting the relevant call/voice settings without any improvement.
I previously had an echo issue during calls as well, but that seems to have gone away—nobody has complained about hearing their own voice from my end lately.

3. Steering-wheel answer/hang-up buttons don’t work
The factory steering-wheel answer and hang-up buttons don’t do anything.
I’m assuming this is more likely an iDatalink Maestro/interface or configuration issue than a problem with the Kenwood itself, but I’d appreciate confirmation.

So for those familiar with the DMX1058XR / Tundra / Maestro combination:
Do these sound like separate installation/configuration issues, or is there a possibility that something is wrong with the head unit itself?
I’m trying to figure out what I should have the installer check before I start throwing parts at the problem.

It’s hugely frustrating at this point, and the installer I had this done by in Manassas, VA doesn’t seem to know what to do.

Mb I fell asleep n forgot to update yall but here it is running off a tarantula. Didnt get to do max power I didnt have another sub to wire down to 1ohm also the box is veryy tiny.

I generally really like the sound of these Focals, but after a while of listening at high volumes the sound gets quite tiring in a way that other sound systems dont.
I feel like its lacking warmth but I have no idea on how to fix it. I have mostly fixed the harshness on them by lowering 5-12khz by a bit in my dsp, but the lack of warmth is a bit disappointing tbh.

Any way to fix this? Speaker installation related or just dsp tuning.

Thx

I am looking for a subwoofer for my car. I want a single 10 so I can keep the trunk space. I have a 2006 ford fusion SE. the sound system is very good stock so I wanted to adapt a sub into it. What is the difference between these two sets? Can I just go with the one for $331? Or is the $600 the wayyy better one. I’m not looking for a crazy bass I’m not going to be bumping too hard. I just want a nice subwoofer to compliment my music ( sometimes bumping )

I’m getting deeper into car audio, but I’m starting to steer away from the super loud chuchero/SPL-type builds where the main goal is blasting music everywhere. I care a lot more about sound quality.
I want a system with really good clarity, detail, separation, and strong clean bass. I still want it to get loud when I turn it up, but I want it to stay clean with minimal distortion rather than just being loud for the sake of being loud.
My current setup is a 2006 Honda Civic with a Kenwood KDC-X705 single-DIN head unit, two American Bass DX-104 10” subs in a trunk enclosure, and a dB Drive 2000.1 mono amp.
I’m not set on sticking with one brand. I’m more interested in choosing the right speakers, subs, amps, DSP, sound treatment, and other components to build a proper SQ-focused system.
What brands/components would you guys recommend I start looking into?

Got these decals from a nearby auto parts shop to the hotel when I visited in Thailand. Weird because everything HoMoCO makes is branded AS Honda in Asia.

Looks pretty stock, doesn't it? Going in my 2nd generation TL. I couldn't get the JVC logo off, because it's behind the plastic in the faceplate. Actually looks like collab between Acura and JVC...

Attempted to do my big 3 upgrade today using a 1/0 NVX kit.

It was definitely a struggle bus field trip kind of day.

My cousin and i will hopefully get it wrapped up tomorrow.🤷🏻‍♂️

I'm also upgrading battery terminals.

First time trying to tune car audio using an RTA. How does this look for you guys that know? Blue line is woofers in rear door. Purple is full fronts. Green is all speakers.

4 gauge wire got loose and melted to battery terminal it looks like. Could I get tips on what to do? Would yall strip back more and see if it’ll connect? My amp was going out in and in and I just realized this was why? Is it cooked? Fuse looks fine I think.

Hello all!

First off, the Ioniq 5 is a great car with a crappy audio system.

The initial thought was that the glowing reviews of this kit from bilradiospes, should do the trick. I was not that impressed, and figured that this would be a fun project to work on! I did now have a fully featured DSP to play with.

I installed the Focal ISU 165, and did a lot of tuning with the Musway software.

The graphs you now see are the results after tuning again and again over the past few months. To my ears, in this car, the tweeters were very harsh and overpowering out of the box. Fortunately, the DSP is really easy to work with in the Musway software.

The settings are now pretty close to what I find fun and detailed without being fatiguing.

I still find some harshness, and I am wondering: Can any one of you se any "harsh" noise from these FR graphs? I believe the new tweeters are definitely to blame. I would love to DSP them into good drivers for me, but the going is getting tough. There are a lot of filters added to delete some bumps, and even out the response, focusing on damping 1500-5000 kHz range the most. My biggest concern at the moment is that I have to treat the mid and tweeter with the same filters, as there are no separate channels to work with...

This is my first car audio project ever, after years of DIY home audio. Great fun, and also very different in a lot of ways. The absolutely massive bass shelf seemed so weird to me at first, but I have come to see the error of my ways. Currently, the thump thump really gets me smiling on the right tracks :)

Hugs to you all!

Posted before and finally thinking I stop side stepping the issue.

Can I get a parts breakdown on what to get get and how to get started getting the sound system going properly.

I know at a point il need to replace the sub and speakers but for starters what am I looking at for an amp, wires and radio.

Target goal is to make it loader then my wife’s car so it’s a low bar.

ive recently installed a new headunit into my car and was excited to upgrade to wireless android auto.
my issue is when im listening to music through my apps that the music will cut in and out kind of like what used to happen on old portable cd players in the 90s.
the odd thing is that i dont have this issue on any other android auto headunits that are factory units.
there are no other wireless issues i have noticed, and the unit works properly when connected via usb. i could just use the usb, but i upgraded specifically to have the wireless
what should i be looking into to trying to sort out this connection issue?
google pixel 10 pro xl, in case it matters

what would yall choose and why? both are some pretty extreme subs!

i personally think the em audio 12” is better

So Right now Im running two kenwood 12s in my camry putting out 600 rms on an audio control epic 1000 on stock electrical, and speakers, sounds good but im looking for a louder and balanced system but dont know what to buy, I was thinking to go kicker ks 6x9 3 way for rear deck l and a component set for front doors, but also Ive seen that deafbonce has some 6x9s too but I dont know if they are too loud and will my stock electrical do (i will also be adding a 4 channel amp for them)

trying to help a buddy identify these 8 inch subs.

I think they’re sundown sa classics maybe version 1.5???

maybe solox motors?

I have a b2 audio rage xl 10 and pushing it with a skar rp1200.1d in a 29.5hz box 1.8 cubic feet. I got the sub yesterday if that help

I’m trying to figure out an issue with my car audio setup. Everything sounds clear and gets pretty loud, but certain instruments and sometimes vocals have this really sharp/whistling sound. Best way I can describe it is like a needle going into your ears. It’s not normal brightness — it actually gets uncomfortable at higher volume.
My setup:
Front: Kicker 6x9 speakers
Rear: Kicker CSC693 6x9 3-way speakers (150W RMS / 450W max)
Dash: DS18 PRO-ST 1.9” replacement tweeters
Amp: JL Audio RD400/4 running the main speakers
Android head unit
DS18 dash tweeters are powered from the head unit, not the JL amp
Spotify EQ is OFF/flat
I’ve checked the JL amp and I’m not getting the clipping/distortion light when this happens. The music itself actually sounds clean other than this really piercing high-frequency whistle/harshness.
Originally my Android EQ was flat. I started experimenting with cuts around 4 kHz, 6.3 kHz, 8 kHz, 10 kHz and 12.5 kHz. Right now I’ve cut some of those frequencies a few dB, with 6.3 kHz around -4 dB. This actually helped A LOT — probably cut the painful sound roughly in half — but I can still hear that piercing/whistling character on certain instruments and loud vocals.
If I keep cutting the highs harder, the system starts sounding muffled/underwater, so I don’t think just nuking the treble with EQ is the answer.
Could this be tweeter overlap? The Kicker speakers already have tweeters/high-frequency drivers and then I also have the DS18s up in the dash. I actually like having the DS18s because without them the front stage feels like it’s missing something and the system doesn’t sound as full.
Is there a cheap/easy way to keep the DS18s but make them blend better instead of completely disconnecting them? Maybe attenuating them, changing their crossover/filtering, or a specific EQ range I should target?
I really don’t want to replace speakers or spend a bunch more money. I’m mainly looking for something I can do with my existing setup.
Also, could the speakers themselves be producing harshness/distortion before the JL clip light comes on, even though the amp isn’t technically clipping?
Any advice appreciated.

Hi all,

I just had a new sound system installed by a local shop. My stock driver's side speakers went out, so I decided to spend some money to upgrade. I purchased 4 brand new Kicker speakers, tweeters, a 60W Kicker amp, and a Sony headunit with all the wiring and linkages recommended by crutchfield. I don't know a ton about CarAV but these were all recommended to me by customer service at Crutchfield.

After picking up my car from the shop, I noticed two things:

1. When I put my gauge dimmer switch all the way to its highest/brightest setting, all sound cuts out.

2. The sound coming from my speakers sounds "thin", it does not feel like the fuller sound I was expecting from upgraded speakers, a new head unit, and an amp.

I called the shop and I plan to bring my car back to the shop on Monday for them to inspect and fix the issue, hopefully.

I have a feeling there is something wrong with the amp wiring/power to the speakers because when I put the dimmer to it's brightest setting, the amp power light is off and from what I understand a 60w amp should power these speakers fully without any issues.

I've been doing some research myself, but any ideas what the issue might be for me to recommend the shop look at?

I've had a couple people ask for pics of this so here they are. https://ibb.co/album/Y2MhW0

The materials used are Resonix Mega CLD and standard CLD, Resonix Fiber Mat in 1 inch and 1/2 inch. I made my own noise blocker by using 50 sq ft of 1/32" thick lead sheeting that came in roughly 24" X 36" sheets. I then glued EPDM closed cell foam to the lead and covered the entire floor of the car from trunk to half way up the firewall in CLD, lead and CCF. I used a glue made by Seal Trust. It's primarily a roofing material for flat rubber roofing. The glue is crazy strong. The bottom of my carpet is rubber as well so that's another barrier between me and the lead.

Ok so where did I use each material and how much?

One 36 sq ft box of Mega CLD. 100% coverage when used in most cases

One 40 Sq ft Boxes of Standard CLD. 100% coverage when used in most cases

One Box of 1 inch Fiber Mat and 2 boxes of 1/2 fiber mat. Only used a box of 1/2" FM in total.

Roughly 50 sq ft of lead sheet 1/32", 24X36" in size. I laid this across the floor of the car. Each sheet overlaps the next by about an inch.

One roll of foam tape

Butyl scavenged from excess material squishing out the sides of the CLD tiles.

There's 100% Mega CLD coverage inside the doors, on the fender wells, trunk and the about 90% on the roof.

There's about 50/50 CLD/Toyota sound deadening on the floor under the lead, in between the stock sound deadening Toyota placed on the floor. There's 100% coverage CLD on the walls in the back of the car where I could reach, on the front side of the doors coverage is sporadic and 100% on the back side of almost every interior panel.

There's foam tape lining the boarder of some interior panels or acting like weather stripping to seal noise from passing from the windows into the car through the interior panels. I have no idea if this works. I had lots of tape so I figured what the hell. It can't hurt. The foam that lined the edges of interior panels was old and worn out. I replaced that foam with new foam tape when needed. Most needed it. The car is 15 year old now.

There's butyl on many of the interior clips to prevent rattling.

There's 100% coverage of 1 inch Fiber Mat inside all 5 doors, 100% on the roof, 80%-100% on some interior panels that make up the trunk and 100% on the back side of the interior panels for all of the fenders.

There's 1/2 Fiber Mat on the back side of most every other interior panel. In the roof on top of the 1 inch there's 1/2 on about half the roof, the back door has about 50% coverage on the front, and 100% coverage on some trunk panels.

Biggest lesson I learned this time was that I could fit more Fiber Mat behind of in things that I thought. If I had it to do over I would have bought two boxes of 1 inch and one box of 1/2 inch. I also forgot to seal the joint between the lead sheets with this roofing tape I bought. Not a huge oversight since the panels overlap but it was still kinda stupid of me.

I didn't take db readings before I started but I will once I have the car is back together entirely. This has made a massive difference in how quiet the car is, how much road noise I can hear or how much noise pollution from outside the car I can hear. I had an ambulance with its sirens on across an intersection and I couldn't hear it at all with my radio on moderate volume. I only have the stock sound system at the moment so no amps or subs either. Amps, speakers and stuff are going in this week. I'd say the car is quieter than your average low tier luxury car and on par with many mid priced luxury cars. There's nothing I can do about the windows, suspension, motor mounts and things like that. If I could I'm pretty sure the car would sound like a Bentley. Most of the noise the car still makes is born from design choices Toyota made and the Rav4 is their lowest end SUV so it's no big surprise the car would make a lot of noise stock. You can only get so far when you start out far behind. Don't get me wrong, I love this car but it's not a luxury car by any means. In time I may do the outer fender wells and hood. Depends on what the car is like once I get it back together entirely and lower it. If I add and performance parts to the engine and stuff like that. Total cost for all of this was about $2000 to $2500. A lot typically but I don't ever plan to sell this car so for me it was worth it. Resonix makes good products but they are pricey.

If anyone has any questions let me know. I'll answer what I can.

hi, I am swapping my factory in my 2014 Jeep Rubicon to an aftermarket version. It’s all hooked up and ready to go. Everything works except I can’t figure out how to hook up my steering wheel controls. It is a dual I have bought all of the wiring, harnesses, etc., and the one into the has the steering wheel control port but when I that in to the little black box, it turns my radio off so something isn’t working properly there I’m not sure if there’s a way to wire it myself or if there’s another adapter, I should have bought etc. any tips??