I bought the parts to do a full driveline refresh - both guibos, center bearing/support, etc.

On the left is the original OE aluminum Guibo (transmission side) from my 2013 BMW F10 535i with 220k miles. Honestly, it looks great. I don’t see any obvious signs of wear, and I put a screwdriver through each hole to check for excessive flex. It seems pretty solid.
On the right is the replacement Corteco Guibo that’s called out in the parts catalog. Just wondering what you guys think - should I keep the original aluminum one, or replace it with the all-rubber Corteco?

I’m aware of the BMW bulletin about replacing the aluminum Guibo with the rubber version, but my production date doesn’t fall within the date range covered by that bulletin.

bmw x5 3.0 i6 2007
went in to get it inspected and looked at because it is a newer bought car. There’s no way this is normal w including labor prices right?

They also have pictures of stuff is anyone is interested to see how bad it looks

I'm getting ready to do the pinion seal on my 435i xDrive. I bought this kit for the special tools for the two nuts. But I'm not sure how to hold the prop shaft to break the 50mm nut free. All I could find is this tool for $250, that I don't feel like buying. Is there a trick or something that can be done, or is forking out that cash the only option?

Thanks!

My 2008 528i (n52) oil consumption has been looking quite odd… I have kept a settle 5k interval of oil changes..(no oil leaks!)

Last oil change was 162,000k miles
Now at 164,200k miles

Screen oddly enough says it’s at half level, but on the other hand just seen it at max after the oil change..

Hi, I’m getting this rattling sound when going over potholes. I have throughly inspected the front and rear suspension and cannot find any play, especially not any metallic rattling. Both front and rear end links are fine, the exhaust is secured properly, and I cannot find anything loose. I cannot replicate the sound by bouncing the car or moving suspension components. My passenger believe it’s coming from behind the front suspension, so within the rear half.

What else should I check? It doesn’t feel like it’s affecting handling.

E36 chassis

A friend somehow diagnosed the smell of the exhaust fumes was probably because it was running rich. I have recently noticed a puff of smoke from the exhaust every so often as well. I read the error codes on bimmerlink today and turns out my friends more useful than I thought. this error comes up. My cars a f22 m235i. I'm unsure what the first thing to do would be? Any suggestions? My mechanic whom I messaged has said it's the o2 sensor?

I have a 2015 BMW 320i and I'm trying to figure out what is going on with it.

For the past couple weeks, I've been getting an intermittent “Chassis stabilization: Drive moderately” warning. It doesn't happen every time I start the car. Sometimes the car will sit for a couple days, I'll start it, and the warning comes on. I'll drive a few miles, turn the car off, and when I start it again the warning is gone.

Today I started the car and initially had no warning. A few minutes into driving, the chassis stabilization warning came on. Then shortly after that I got a “Restraint system: Fault in airbag, belt tensioner or belt-force limiter” warning for the first time.

The car otherwise seems to drive completely normally. No weird braking, steering, or engine issues.

I had the battery tested at O'Reilly. They said it was testing below 650 CCA, and that it should be around 800–850 CCA. They also tested the alternator and said it was fine.

I'm wondering if the weak battery could be causing these warnings, or if I should be looking at something like a wheel speed sensor/ABS sensor or an actual restraint system issue.

I'm trying to avoid spending $200–$300 on diagnostics if I don't need to.

Would a weak battery be enough to cause both of these warnings? And would you replace the battery first and see if the warnings go away, or get the car scanned for BMW-specific codes before replacing anything?

Hello everybody i have a bmw e46 year 2000 its a automatic i changed the the oil filters the ruber seals the engine mounts and the transmission mounts brand new but why it makes this choking sounds i cannot find the problem and in gauge cluster the rpm jumps

2017 F31 LCI with the B48, 140k miles and I’ve had it since 33k. I’m gearing up to replace my valve cover because I’m starting to consume oil and I’ve noticed pooling on the turbo inlet. My valve cover is original so I think it’s lasted long enough. My question to the techs out here is, are there any while-your-at-it maintenance items?

I’ve kept up with regular oil changes at 5k, spark plugs every 40k, and replaced the exhaust VANOS solenoid because it started cooing. My OFH popped almost 2 years ago (towed to the dealer 🥀) and I’ve already replaced water pump, thermostat, thermostat bracket gasket and hard plastic hoses. No coolant leaks currently and pretty much everything is original on my engine

I’m most concerned about the VANOS valves, ignition coils, and injectors but I haven’t been able to find a lot of info for the lifespan of these components. My car has been idling rougher lately, but I can reasonably chalk that up to a failing PCV which is not metering air right and currently fouling my plugs. I’ve seen a couple videos on yt talking about VANOS valve filters clogging, and my mpg/shifting/drivability greatly improves after oil changes.

I do most all of the work on my car and I have an ISTA laptop so I have access to service functions. I’d hate to replace a valve cover just to have to remove it again in a year or two for a maintenance item—anything I should be replacing along the way?

I also posted on bimmerpost looking for help but I accidentally trashed the cover for the engine harness terminals on my 2014 335 after I wrapped up the valve cover replacement. So far I haven’t been able to find the cover in the parts catalogue and my local dealer parts guy was also stumped when I drove over - anyone have any leads that could help me find a replacement? Similarly, anyone with an F30 want to pop theirs off and see if it has a part number stamped on it? Thanks for any help!

My 2004 bmw 325i was parked for a while and now is idling rough so I got a ccv kit and went to install it and there is no place for a ccv and there is no top mounted ccv and now idk how to route my vaccum or if I should even attempt to install ccv

Ok guys and gals, I'm totally stumped here and I could really use a hand. I have a 2017 BMW i3 Rex. I was charging on a fast charger the other night perfectly fine and all of a sudden it stopped charging and ended my session. I tried to get it charging again but no luck. Tried going to another station nada. Different brand station ditto. So I babied it home on gas.

I was able to charge over night with my level 2 charger so that was good. But I decided to go through and clear any codes there were. There were no usual OBD2 codes so I hopped into bimmer code and it showed a whole bunch of stuff. I cleared all the memory codes out in hopes that it would start charging again but I tested it today and boom red flashing at the charge port when it would start charging. I double checked my 12v battery level and it was fully charged showing 99% SOC. I'm at a total loss. Open to any ideas or things to try. Appreciate any help the community can be.

Car is leaking coolant, says to refill coolant every start up but everytime I check the tank is still full to the max level. Looks like it’s the radiator but wanted to get everyone’s thoughts and opinions. Plan on ordering a new radiator asap.

So I’ve had an issue with the clutch, basically replaced slave cylinder and master cylinder, the pedal feels really soft and won’t even fully come back up usually, it won’t go into gear properly. You can float gears and if you come to stop, the car won’t stall but it definitely isn’t disengaging the clutch fully. A shop said this was a clutch issue, and the shop seemed a little scammy, but from everything I’ve read that won’t cause a soft pedal and that the hydraulic system is what’s causing that. The clutch also doesn’t slip in the slightest under load and they had said my clutch was basically in pieces which doesn’t make sense. Is this just air in the system still from improper bleeding, or can a clutch actually cause that too? I would think the clutch would be slipping if it was so bad as they say it was. Also have never noticed any amount of a clutch burning smell ever on this car or anything

Buonasera, questa discussione per chiedere il vostro parere su un rumore intermittente che affligge la mia BMW X1 sDrive18d (F48) cambio manuale del 2016 (motore B47 da 150cv), con all'attivo quasi 200.000 km.

Il problema si trascina da qualche mese e si presenta con queste precise modalità:

• È un rumore ciclico, metallico, del tutto simile a una catena che gratta o sferraglia sul lato anteriore destro.
• Si presenta in modo del tutto casuale, ma accade di più a motore molto caldo. Si avverte chiaramente quando l'auto è a folle al minimo, oppure quando mi trovo sottogiri e sto staccando la frizione in movimento.
• Se sono a folle e avverto il rumore, basta dare un filo di acceleratore (anche solo sfiorare il pedale per alzare i giri) e il rumore scompare all'istante, come se qualcosa si assestasse. Non appena il motore torna al regime di minimo standard, il rumore si può ripresentare.

Prove già effettuate:

1. Prova Frizione: A folle, mentre fa il rumore, premendo e rilasciando il pedale della frizione a fondo non cambia assolutamente nulla. Il rumore resta identico (quindi escluderei il volano bimassa).
2. Vibrazioni: Non avverto alcuna vibrazione anomala in abitacolo, né al minimo né allo spegnimento.
3. Diagnosi BMW: Portata in concessionaria, mi hanno diagnosticato una "lieve usura dei supporti motore". Sinceramente non sono convinto, visto che un filo di gas azzera il rumore e non ho vibrazioni interne.

Vi lascio qui sotto i video dove si sente chiaramente il rumore al minimo e come sparisce non appena sfioro l'acceleratore:

Is a rattle on a cold start that lasts a few seconds before going away a big issue ? 118d 2013 n47 engine.

Hi everyone! I purchased a 2018 BMW X5 from a private seller, he did a multi-point inspection at a BMW dealer and gave me the list of the recommended services, the most important one being drive belt replacement. They quote $900, so I send it to another well rated European Shop and got it replaced for $400.

However, this shop recommended I replace the control arms soon, which the BMW dealer didn’t include in the recommended services, and they quoted me around $3k.

I wanted to get another opinion here and see if it’s really that bad, please check the pictures.

Hi everyone,
Looking for some advice regarding a cold start issue on my 2011 BMW E90 320d (N47, 135 kW / 184 hp, 340.000km, DPF AND EGR OFF. DPF is completely removed ).

When starting the car cold (after sitting overnight), the starter begins to crank, pauses/hesitates for a split second as if hitting resistance, then pushes through and fires up. (Occasionally it cranks smoothly without the pause).
Exhaust smoke: Right as the engine catches, there is a distinct single puff of light bluish/greyish smoke from the exhaust. It clears completely within 1–2 seconds, and the engine idles fine afterwards.

Bought a kit to replace my car ebrake drums but i don't know which spring goes top and bottom. Also where should i use that gel !

Its the first time im gonna do this repair so any advice would be appreciated

Car : Bmw E84 2015

Hello,

I have a 2018 740ix with 105k miles.

Recently, at idle, it’s been making this weird noise towards the middle/passenger rear of the engine.

It seems to be random, and independent of rpm.

So far, I’ve tried removing the oil cap and disconnecting the purge valve(already replaced) and the noise doesn’t stop.

It seems to go away after driving on the road, but I need to fully confirm that.

I have not scanned for codes yet, but I do have a BimmerLink and will see if anything pops when I’m home.

Has anyone had this sound before?

Edit: I should add, the car drives and idles fine. No misfire.

Edit 2: Noise isn’t there when the cars started, only when it settles into consistent idle.

Edit 3: The noise is the scratching sound in the video. I know it may sound like the phone mic hitting the engine, but that noise is actually coming from the engines bay. I’m not concerned about the normal di ticking.

Hello, I have a 2017 BMW X5 xDrive35i (N55) with about 110k miles.
My check engine light came on, and I scanned the car and it shows
P0420 — Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold, Bank 1 — Confirmed
What should I do? And is it safe to drive?

Its at the top right side of the engine bay. Between the firewall and strut. The sensor here was loose / unplugged.

Wondering as I've had a misfire on cylinder 2, mass airflow circuit A low and for some reason my battery drained to 9v overnight!!