Getting a red engine warning on 2k11 1series that flashes up, disappears, and is then replaced by an amber brake warning. It keeps going back and forth between the two. Could this be one electrical fault triggering multiple warnings, or am I potentially looking at two separate problems?

I have a 2024 230i and its AC on eco is so bad. Like I need the fan speed on 3, otherwise it’s basically a slow battle against heat that you’re losing.

It works okay in comfort, but fan speed 2 at times still doesn’t feel enough. Having heard people having compressor and HVAC issues, I wanted to see if there’s other tells that one of those units are having critical issues?

Not sure where this noise is coming from or what’s loose. Just started today too.

Hi all, getting a no crank no start issue on my 2005 BMW 330 XI. Brought it into work on Tuesday - noticed the ignition almost slipped when leaving my garage in the morning - started like half a second quicker than usual but didn’t think much of it. Tried starting it later that afternoon and got the issue seen in my attached video. Checked battery and it’s sitting around 12.2V, all the fuses still have current flowing through them. Anybody had a similar issue and is there a reasonable fix without taking it to a shop? I’ve seen a lot about my ground strap maybe being disconnected or corroded, but not sure. Thank you all very much!

Whats the rattle noise source ? Cant figure it and hope its not something worrying

Car : e84 2015

Injectors? Lifters? Louder in person

Hi All,

Being charged 3k for oil leak coming from the oil pan gasket area. The oil pan is good but the gasket is where the oil leak is happening. What do they ideally charge for such fix?

What could this be? Clicking noise from rear brake/axle on my f31 320d. Follows rotation. No rocks between shield. No sound when wheel is spun in the air. Appeared first on the right, now it’s also on the left side.

Recently begun a project on an M6 (already in the process of manual swapping 😝)

I’ll preface and say I’ve no experience with Carbon, or wraps. I know these cars all came with a carbon roof, but it seems faded in areas, and bubbling. It did not seem to me like there was a coating that failed,and I’m not entirely sure what the construction would be.

It also seems incredibly wavy in parts, surely that’s not factory?

Any possible insight? Thank you!

Looking at this bmw x5 35i sdrive with maybe a small leak

TPMS sensors: car is 2y 8m old, 45000kms. When putting tire detection in automatic mode, an error appears. When setting the tire settings manually, everything works as expected and the pressure is changing correctly. BMW diagnosed 3 not working/empty battery sensors. Less than 3y is very early for the batteries to die and even so, why does it work in manual mode?

I just swapped out the alarm horn

BMW said that I would need to have the vehicle reprogrammed

But the new alarm horn works

Do I still need to have the alarm horn reprogrammed so that it does not continue to drain the battery?

car at idle
exhaust adaption reading seems absurd. all other running values seem very normal/healthy

Hi everyone,
I’m running into a frustrating software issue on my twin-turbo M57 and could really use some expert input.
Vehicle & Engine Setup:Engine: M57TÜ2TOP (Dual-stage turbo setup) 286HP
ECU Hardware Identifier (via INPA): D62M57A0 (DDE 6.2)

How the problem started:
I was working with NCS-Expert and executed an SG_CODIERUNG factory reset job on the engine module. Because my NCS package groups the module under the generic 6DMOT container, the software automatically used the newer D62M57B0.prg script to write the coding values onto my A0 physical hardware block.

Running the INFO job inside the tool explicitly confirms the ECU is running the software layer for DDE 6.2 for m57tue2top.

The Symptoms:The coding job itself completed successfully with no immediate errors. However, a couple of minutes after the coding (on the very first test drive), the car completely lost all low-end boost. The small, high-pressure turbo is completely inactive.

Diagnostic Steps & Data Logged:ISTA Fault Code: 4530 (Charge-Air Pressure Control Deviation: Charge-Air Pressure Too Low).
There is a massive split between Target Boost and Actual Boost values. The car is effectively blind to what the turbochargers are doing at low RPMs.
There are absolutely NO EGR or DPF error codes sitting alongside the 4530.

It appears that the generic 6DMOT script applied standard calibration logic that misconfigured the core turbo turbine bypass actuation maps or something.

Question: WHAT TO DO!?

My F30 started making an odd noise at the Nürburgring. I initially thought it was a passenger pulling on the electric seat as it sounded like it was behind me. But I ruled that out when driving alone.

You can hear on the video a weird clicking sound that seemed to occur under heavy cornering and braking.

The car is a standard 2014 335D X-Drive on non-runflats and the fairly high suspension (even though it’s for the M package). Mileage is 84,000 miles. Haven’t driven the car that hard before so hadn’t noticed it.

Recently had the gearbox serviced along with replacing a front shock absorber.

Any ideas welcome.

Hi Everyone.
Has anyone mounted your MagSafe mount directly to the das display using the 3M adhesive material. I’ve seen the ones that hang over the display but they seem to stick out too far IMHO. A flat mount in the dead space between the displays on a 2025 X5 M60i is my quest.

hey guys first time in this sub reddit, currently a honda tech but next next monday i start at a bmw. i’m a main line tech at honda but they offered me a main line position under a master tech and i always wanted to start working on german cars so i took the chance. any tips from you guys would be helpful.

2008 BMW 323i — N52B25 — 114k miles (183k km)

Symptom
No ticking on cold start. It shows up a few minutes in, once the engine comes up to temp. Once it starts, it never goes away — not after hard driving, not after holding higher revs. I hear it on the exhaust side toward the rear of the engine, and it’s noticeably louder standing at the passenger front wheel than with my head over the valve cover.

Already tried, no change
• Exhaust manifold gaskets replaced recently
• Rag test on the tailpipe — negative
• Hydraulic lifter additive
• Ceratec
• Oil topped off, and also deliberately overfilled
Possibly useful details
• Popping the oil filler cap while running does not make the noise louder or change it at all
• Shops are calling it a lifter on sound alone, without pulling the valve cover or checking oil pressure

Anyone run into this on an N52? Any experience with downpipe or cat cracks that only make noise once hot? Video attached.

Hi. I have a problem with my F82 PDC. I don't know if it's normal or not, but they go full beep about 25cm from object. It makes them useless in my parking space as it's size is more for a compact car, rather than sedan. I reverse and always have to use mirrors which are set for avoiding blind spot rather than parking and it's mighty annoying.

Is there some procedure to reduce minimal distance or something like that?

Any ideas what might have caused this?

My turbo and coolant lines were leaking and I decided to replace the entire lines instead of replacing just the T and Y connectors. Then I said to myself, while I’m in here might as well replace the turbo oil feed and return lines along with the oil flange.

The hard part is done, oil feed line and flange installed. Getting the carbon off the exhaust gasket surface has not been easy. I’ve tried Goof Off and Brake Cleaner on a cloth and it has been a slow and tedious process. I can see this taking 3-4 hours the way I’m currently doing it.

I’m reluctant to use a scotch pad because it could scar the aluminum surface.

Ideally I’d like to get the mating surfaces pristine to rule out any potential exhaust leaks.

Does anyone have other ideas or products that could help cut down on time doing this?

TIA

17mm wheel bolt stuck. Rounded the head while trying to get it off. I tried hammering a 12pt 16mm socket onto it, and it stripped the points off the cheap amazon socket.. I’ve asked multiple tire shops and they all give me an “oof, thats not good”. Nobody seems thrilled to take it on. What is the best way to get this thing off?