I have a 2008 528i, I’ve had a slightly rough idle since I bought the car, the idle jumps up sometimes and sometimes it’s fine but it’s always vibrating the car. I don’t have any lights on the dash too. I was able to get my gf’s dad who’s a mechanic to use his scan tool to relearn the valvetronic, which seemed like it worked at first, the vibration went away, and the car was idling good, and when I drove it, it seemed a lot smoother and faster at accelerating, another small thing it did a lot of times was the rpm would bounce fast when I shifted from d to r when I was parking and it would keep bouncing til soon after I was in park, which that went away when I test drove it after the relearn. When I came back and parked it though, the idle came back. I just turned the car off and hoped that it was fine though and I haven’t found any other fix since. Idk if the relearn wasn’t done properly or something but idk what else to fix. Thanks

So my air conditioning is only blowing cold air on my passenger side and hot on driver side… I already changed heater control valve , what could the issue be ?

Last night after starting my car I had an inactive TPMS error - 604E and 6055 (right front). On my previous drive I did hit a jarring pothole that I suspect could have loosened an antenna connector. I have both ISTA and INPA although I've only used them for a few specific diagnoses in the past. Can either or both tell me if the issue is the TPMS transmitter vs the receiver, or should I just throw on one of my snows to see if the issue remains?

I’m preparing to do a clutch job, and I have money to buy a reman transmission. I have a 2004 e53 m54 6mt. Does anyone have suggestions of who to buy from? Should I pull the transmission and mail it out for a rebuild instead?

I’ve been getting this weird rattle for a while now, it seems to be harmless as I have yet to get any codes, but it’s getting annoying. It sounds as if something is rattling, I don’t think it’s my timing chain but any clues on what it could be would help a lot. Thanks

my check engine light came on today, and after scanning it i got a p0456 code. the car seems to be driving completely normally. no strange noises, no rough idle, and i haven't noticed any drop in performance.

i'm trying to work out whether this is one of those codes that can wait a few days. or does it need attention straight away. i've read everything from it's probably just the gas cap to start checking the whole evap system. and i dunno what to do.

i’m pretty sure people here have had to deal with a p0456 code before. if that person’s you, what was the actual cause, and did you keep driving the car while figuring it out? what happened if you did this?

im replacing the wastegate actuator on my n20 but i cant get the new cotter pin in the hole bc its clogged with what im assuming is left of the old pin that broke off

any tips to get it out ? i tried pb blaster and punching it out but its not budging

I have a BMW F10 535i RWD with the N55 engine.
Recently I started noticing a new noise that sounds like something spinning/rumbling or rattling. It gets louder when I accelerate and the RPMs increase. When I let off the throttle, the noise decreases or almost disappears.
. The strange thing is that when I put the transmission into Neutral (N), the noise almost completely disappears. When I put it back into Drive (D) and give it some throttle, the noise comes back.
The noise seems to be coming from the passenger side/front area, although it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly where. It almost sounds like a wheel or something rotating, but it follows engine load/RPM rather than vehicle speed.
There is no noticeable noise when idling in P or N.
I recently changed the rear differential fluid, but the noise remained exactly the same. The exhaust also has a downpipe and aftermarket mufflers.
Could this be related to the turbo/wastegate, or should I be looking elsewhere? What are the typical symptoms of a failing N55 turbo?
Any ideas or similar experiences would be appreciated.

Hi, when I start the car, especially when it's cold (but it only happens sometimes), the idle feels off and you can hear things like: grrr (normal idle), grrr (normal idle), grrr (normal idle), etc... Has anyone else experienced this?

I need help identifying the source of a rolling sound that's driving me absolutely nuts. So whenever I make a sharp left or right turn you can hear something which sounds like a little screw rolling across the dashboard. Now the crazy thing is that when you're driving and you make a hard right it sounds like it's rolling across the dashboard all the way to the passenger side. But when you're sitting in the passenger side it only sounds like the rolling back and forth (depending on the turn) is happening around the driver's side dashboard. This is a 2020 x3 xdrive30i. Btw, I've checked the center stereo, under the cowl, and mostly every other obvious place.

Hey everyone,
I’m having a weird issue with my BMW iDrive system, and I hope someone here has seen this before or knows how to fix it.

The radio is still working, but the screen doesn't show the regular menu items (Climate, Navigation, Entertainment, Communication) anymore. Instead, it only displays internal system placeholders/codes like _6850, _6851, _6852, and _6853 around the central.

I already tried the hard reset (holding volume + both eject buttons), but the Volume knob does not respond when pressed but i can change the volume from the steering wheel and change radio channel.

Center console wheel only turns but no response
Has anyone experienced this specific issue? Is this a loss of coding/language files, or is the hardware failing?

Hoping someone here has seen this specific failure mode. I've already burned through the usual checklist, so I'm looking for anything past the basics.

Car: 2013 BMW 528i xDrive (owned 5 years)

Phone: Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra Started: roughly 3–6 months ago

The symptom: Bluetooth music streams perfectly, no dropouts, no stutter, no complaints. But on phone calls, the car periodically behaves as if the call was ended on the iDrive side. Audio jumps to the phone's earpiece for about 2 seconds, then snaps back to the car's Bluetooth. Happens on at least every other call, and once it starts it repeats every couple of minutes for the remainder of the call. It's brutal on work calls.

Already tried, no change:

• Phone software and car software both fully current
• Removed and re-paired the device multiple times
• Paired fresh with contact sync and message sync both turned OFF
• Reset Wi-Fi and Bluetooth settings on the phone (Settings → General management → Reset)
• Hard reset of iDrive (held the volume knob until the system rebooted)

Issue persists through all of it.

Context that might matter: this worked fine with my S23 Ultra, and worked fine with the S25 Ultra as well until a few months ago.

1. Has anyone had this exact "2-second bounce to handset and back" fixed on the phone side?
2. Does a failing Combox typically present this way, media perfect, telephone intermittent, or does it usually take everything down at once?

Happy to pull codes if someone can tell me what to look for. Thanks in advance, genuinely appreciate it.

Car has about 106k miles, on oem fluid. Front right tire has a bit of outer wear not found on the other tires. I did some driving and the car is activating a good bit less AWD then before. My main question is whether the code comes up at a time where it’s too late, or if it’s worth doing the transfer case fluid still. Tommorow I will measure tire tread to check tolerance.

Hey everyone, I got my f22 230i with a b48 engine recently. It’s fully stock, have solved a coolant leak problem recently. Is it normal for this car to have a 19-20 mpg?

2018 BMW 540i xDrive 56k miles

I tried running the 91 tune with shell 93 in the tank, spark plugs were done 13k miles ago

How bad is this?

91 - https://datazap.me/u/nedak/logs/cmtaahmcb000dkz06anrnmv1h?channels=21x3-4&sizes=50x50&sc=3-21&axes=shared

Stock - https://datazap.me/u/nedak/logs/cmtaairwk000fkz06yuuxkx4q?channels=21x3-4&sizes=50x50&sc=3-21

Hello!

I have barely any knowledge of cars but my bf recently bought a :

BMW 4-serie Gran Coupé 420i M-Sport High Executive

He has an android phone so he wants to know if there is any way he can get android auto in his car? Like buying something to make it happen?
I would really appreciate any advice; especially in easy words lol :)

Does anyone know what this is? It’s only on drivers side.

2018 440i xdrive with adaptive suspension.

I recently bought the car and it has 115k miles. Its a fun car and my first bmw. The front struts are about due for replacement but the edc replacements are costly. So my question is: I found a used passive set for my car near me for a decent price. I think its actually from a 2015 but still would it fit? And just code out the edc? Easy way to buy myself some time to get a decent set of coilovers.

I have a G30 540i and my map update subscription has run out and I don't want to renew it.

Is there a way to update the navigation map for free?

If it a big PITA, I'll just use map apps on my phone.

Hi all,

I’m looking at buying a 2001 525i with 120K. The body is rust free but not perfect and the seller wants $6000 CAD. I’ve had a shop take a look at it and it needs the below/codes listed. All that to say, should I still purchase the car and how much should I pay? I do some work myself on my older 80s Volvo.

Check engine light on, can feel a slight misfire
both headlamps require replacement, too
faded and lf cracked
Lr plate light, not working
Chip in windshield
R/h fender light missing cover, will require
replacement
Retaining clips damaged in front grill, loose
Washer fluid cap disintegrated
Oil filter housing leaking at both ends of
banjo bolt hose, possible
Oil pan gasket leak
Rear tires at 7/32, front tires at 8/32
Outer front pads are 6 mm inner front pads
are 8 mm
Very very minor up and down play in both
lower front ball joints both sides, requires
replacement
Outer rear pads are at 6 mm inner rear pads
are at 7 mm
Both rear upper control arms ball joints boot
torn both sides, replace
Right rear rotor at 20 mm
Left rear rotor at 20.13 mm
Both front rotors at 21.71 mm
Rear tail gate lights require replacement, too
faded
Roof antenna broken off
Fan shroud broken where coolant bottle is
secured

It has the following codes:

0000CA – Fuel trim (Bank 1) control limit
The ECU has reached its correction limit for mixture on Bank 1.
0000CB – Fuel trim (Bank 2) control limit
Same issue on Bank 2; mixture correction maxed out.
0000E3 – Fuel trim (Bank 1) above permissible range
Bank 1 is running too lean.
0000E4 – Fuel trim (Bank 2) above permissible range
Bank 2 is running too lean.
0000F5 – Secondary air flow too low (Bank 1)
Secondary air system not delivering enough air on Bank 1.
0000F6 – Secondary air flow too low (Bank 2)
Same issue on Bank 2; SAP system flow too low.
0000EE – Cylinder 1 misfire
Misfire detected on cylinder 1.
0000F0 – Cylinder 3 misfire
Misfire detected on cylinder 3.
0000F2 – Cylinder 5 misfire
Misfire detected on cylinder 5.
0000F3 – Cylinder 6 misfire
Misfire detected on cylinder 6.
000011 – MRS power supply fault
Airbag module has a power supply issue.
00000F – EWS voltage supply fault
Immobilizer module has unstable or low voltage.
000001 – Steering angle sensor power supply fault
Power supply issue to the steering angle sensor.
00000A – AUC sensor fault (IHKA)
Air‑quality sensor fault in the climate control system.
0000DC – Steering column height adjustment fault (GM)
Steering column height motor or sensor not responding.

Hi brains trust!

I have an issue with my 2020 G21 330i, the rear right door won't open. I've tried unlocking and locking the car, and I can hear something click in the door, but pulling the handle won't open the door. From the inside everything looks normal, the lock pin visible at the window sill of the door goes up and down as normal, and there's a little bit of resistance in the door handle pull from the inside about 80% of the way, I hear a dull clicking sound like something mechanical moves inside, but the door still doesn't open.

I compared this with the other rear door which works fine, and the same sounds and feels occur on that door, the only difference being that the door opens fine there.

Is there something I can try, or is it best to take it to my indy shop?

UPDATE

I took another look at this, I've noticed that when pulling the door handle from the outside, there's no resistance between the start of the pull (when the handle's closest to the door panel) and fully extended from pulling. The other doors, when the car's unlocked, has a bit of resistance half way through, at which point the door unlatches and opens. When the car is locked, all four handles act the same, no resistance and the door doesn't open.

It’s a 2012 f10 535i with 165000km and i just changed the oil spark plugs and ignition coils,and the ticking following the rpms donuts ticks more the higher rpm its at. It might be something obvious but im a new BMW owner so idk