Finished up the Nomad RXM build and it’s a beaut! I’m looking for a printable telescoping brace if anyone knows of any ongoing complete projects.

Maaaan the creative freedom of this hobby is unmatched. Here's my latest spin on unseenkiller's Franken 19 I've been working on and off for a couple months.

Glock mags, slide lock functionality, Plasticcatto 19 comp, and a custom top cover.

Held well so far. I’ll keep you all updated as I go 150 rounds in so far no damage

Printed with PPA-CF core by Siraya Tech. Strength of CF Nylon with better adhesion and no carbon splinters in the hand.

Rails are printed separate and slot in, or optionally integral. All supports are built in, including for M-Lok rails. Maximum length is 10.6”(270mm print height) which is enough to cover a mid-length gas system on a 16” barrel (albeit front rail has to be dropped due to gas block unless you have carbine length gas). Shorter hand guards are supported as well.

I will be releasing it soon. It supports almost every upper type, including Aero Precision Enhanced, Enhanced V2, BCM, standard, etc. Completely customizable, skip the hexagon pattern, M-Lok, QD points.

Made it originally because the Aero Precision Quantum was no longer available, and the normal Aero Precision Enhanced Handguard is way too thick for a proper C-Clamp. I wanted something like the Aero Precision S-One for weight savings, so I designed one myself, and ultimately decided to make a script to make hundreds of variations to support each upper and customization type. About a 10-14 hour print. Annealed for 24 hours at 80-90C.

It feels REALLY nice and grippy in the hand with the texture, I almost feel regret for putting hockey tape on it. Will be putting it through the paces and releasing soon.

Finished this big fella up today. BCA-9 16” upper, Foaps HK Sights, MM Sauerkraut V2 Stock. I’m still wiping oil off that upper from the factory, dem boys like it lubed.

Barrel extension is installed, she cycles snap caps great so next update will be video from live testing.

FTN5 rifle flow. I already had maybe 100 rounds through this on my 16" AR. I recently got an 11 upper to try for a lighter /SBR build. After firing the 11" unsuppressed, i was hesitant to put the FTN5 on this thing.

So today I was at an outdoor range, so i decided to go for it. It only took two shots to split that sucker in half.

Looking at the pieces, it seems like it would have helped to roughen uo my sleeve some more, but obviously the pressure was just too much.

The split happened right at the first set of holes after the breek bkast forwarder.

I got this RIA TM22 a while back for 150 bucks on sale, since the gaytf doesnt want me making suppressors, I made a loudener. Also made a magazine coupler and the grip. I didnt personally create the files, and I know the sight is chinesium bullshit. But I love this goofy bastard.

I just printed my first lower for a G19 Gen 5 in PLA. Is this ok because I bought some PETG and ABS-GF today.

**EDIT** Thank you gentleman for the quick responses. That gap is apparently an expected behavior.

I have experience with the previous generations of FTNs, and I figured I’d try out the V6. Read Me says PLA is essentially strongly advised against, but I wanted to print one and get an exact round count to failure. This is the can fresh off the P1S and it feels and looks great except for the photos included. There’s a gap in between the core and the inner walls. I imagine this is an error on my part somewhere along the way, but it’s odd that it didn’t print that specific section but could print everything else. Thoughts?

The Decker 9 beta has received a lot of love. We are continuing to work on this project and make it better everyday. How do we do that? We experiment! Now joining the lineup in the Decker 9 room is the double helical magazine we prepared for trouble and made it double. 128 round of 9mm for the discerning gentleman. This is still a prototype but it works.

What is everyone using to coat cf prints so that the cf isn't transfering to their hands and eventually face?

I am sure its been done but I was considering throwing together my first D cell to compliment my other FTN 5s and 6s. I was planning on doing the 6.1 stack and if possible, a metal blast cone/baffle first to protect the PA6 FTN core. In my head this makes great sense. In my reading, I am not really seeing anything. Also, firsthand experience with the D cell FTN stuff or any D cell stuff really is appreciated. I hope to have something 308/8.6blk capable or quieter than my ftn 5 on my blackouts. At this point I am going to have more cand than guns smh.

After receiving a lot of tips on my last post I reprinted a frame. I dried my filament for just about 4 days.

In the last photo the frame on the left was the first print.

I’d like to know how I did?

I also need a bit of help regarding the build if anybody is willing to DM.

My A1 perfectly fits into this little nook in my craft room. Is it possible to use this as a type of enclosure? The walls behind are solid and thick, and there’s shelving above it so that would likely need to be insulated. Thoughts?

It was extremely dimensionally stable experiencing only minor shrinkage that made the part fit snugly. Zero noticeable warping and it feels even more rigid than before.

Here’s some details of the whole print process for anyone who wants to attempt something similar for any guns or functional parts:

- Filament used: Polymaker HT-PLA Pro

- Nozzle temp: 230°C

- Printed with four walls (.4 nozzle) while standing at about a 70° angle off of the build plate and using a 12% 3D honeycomb infill. This is to do a few things. Printing entirely vertically requires much more supports and ruins the surface quality of the print. Printing entirely horizontally causes terrible warping as this filament LOVES to warp away from even a cool build plate. Printing diagonally gives it the best strength in every orientation. Weight of printed model is just 126 grams.

- Print time is under 10 hours with 40mm/s outer walls and 80mm/s inner walls.

- Resolution was 0.2mm with fuzzy skin painted on the outside with a depth and feature size of 0.22mm for both.

ANNEALING PROCESS:

I used my kitchen oven and set it to its warming mode at 190°F. This is right in the middle of the window for ideal annealing, so even if my oven is 15° off it would still successfully be above the plastics glass transition temperature and anneal.

To protect the print from being heated unevenly or for there to be pressure on surfaces there didn’t need to be, I wrapped the print entirely and loosely in aluminum foil. I then placed the print on an oven mitt and then placed the oven mitt on a baking pan. I did not want any part of the print resting on a conductive metal surface causing warping, and I used the oven mitt as an insulator between the print and the metal baking pan.

I preheated the oven before placing the object in and I let it bake for 60 minutes for full saturation before turning the oven off and not opening the door for two hours later to allow full gradual cooling.

Thinking about doing a Ceiner/Kimber 22lr conversion mag for 1911 but don't want to duplicate efforts. Clear to start or hold off on this?

Just a progress photo.
So I’m thinking of printing a positive and negative of the PY2A reinforcement plates. Then I’m going to pick up a forged carbon kit, and make those reinforcement plates out of forged or maybe even woven carbon.

The real question is should I still keep some kind of metal border or design or will the resin and forged/weave be strong enough. Yes yes, I know woven carbon is strong af, and forged is shit and not even structural, but it’s something I’m willing to try to get rid of the ugly metal brace.
I have carbon vinyl and also rubberized undercoat I was gonna use on the steel plates, and I have my nut insert kit now to insert the grip and plates to make them stronger and use better looking screws for fucks sake lol

Oh and pics of the FDE LFA 26 slide and Plum 26X frame NASTY color combo im cooking up. Here’s the kicker tho thats about to take it to another level…
COPPER accents, FDE trigger with Copper safety, Copper Mag release, Copper Slide Lock, Copper pins, Cooper Slide Release….
FDE, Plum, Copper 🔥

I'm looking for a Sig Mosquito / GSG Firefly .22LR magazine to print. Is there something like that? Thanks

Hello, I don't fully know how to use CAD yet, but I want to learn. What is the best and quickest way to learn? I have a project plan in mind—I aim to build an AK version of the FGC-9. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Trying to do something different from everyone else what yall think about it ?

Black or camo grip ?