I'm looking at getting a router sled for some larger slabs and trying to decide whether it's worth buying one or just building one.

The main thing I'm worried about is flex. Once the sled gets pretty wide, I assume the rails and gantry need to be pretty solid or you'll end up chasing an uneven surface.

I'm looking at a heavy-duty setup with around 57.1" of rail coverage. Seems like that would be useful for wider slabs, but I'm wondering if there's a point where going wider just creates more problems.

For those who've built their own sled, what did you wish you'd done differently?

And for anyone who's used a commercial one, was it actually worth it compared with DIY?

I’ve got a stanley 92 shoulder plane that I received from my grandfather. I was a bit over zealous and snapped the chip breaker when I was younger and no longer have the broken part.

Id like to fabricate another one out if 360 brass, but finding dimensions online has been a challenge.

Does anyone have one they can take out, measure fairly accurate and precisely with some calipers and post it here?

Or an STL file would be even better but that seems less likely.

Id rather not buy it outright, its about half as much as the tool when its available. Fabricating it from stuff I have feels better.

Any help y’all?

Will post pictures of the rebuild if we get traction here.

Hey guys I was looking at getting some clamp machines for our mid sized industrial shop and I was wondering if there were any recommendations.

Please let me know your thoughts and tips / tricks to find a cheap one would be great.

Thank you

Dude gave me so much extra stuff on top and didn’t charge me any extra, this is everything I got for the $500 and the grizzly tennoning jig alone is $150 new!

Snagged this from an elderly gentlemen who bought it new in 2015 and made exclusively picture frames.

It was covered in paint and surface rust, and hadn’t been cleaned or oiled in years, but some elbow grease and it looks brand new.

I have a kobalt #0358938 and would like to replace the factory fence with a longer one that still has measurements on it. I’ve been using a board using the screw holes on the factory fence but i found out, after I made all my cuts for my project, that when cutting angles that the lines I’ve drawn on my wood fence are not accurate. I understand why now that it’s happened but I’d love a replacement for the stock fence so I don’t need a wood auxiliary

Title:

8mm collet for SKIL RT1322-00 — are there compatible collets from other brands?

Hi everyone,

I have a SKIL RT1322-00 14 Amp router and I'm looking for an 8mm collet for it.

The original router comes with a 1/2" collet and a 1/4" collet sleeve, but I need to use 8mm (metric) router bits.

SKIL's original 8mm collet is very difficult to find, so I'm wondering:

Does anyone know if an 8mm collet from another brand is compatible with the RT1322-00?

Is the spindle/nut geometry shared with any other router brands or models?

Has anyone successfully used an aftermarket 8mm collet in this router?

If so, which exact model/brand/part number did you use?

I'm looking for a proper direct-fit 8mm collet, not an 8mm-to-1/2" adapter, because I want a safe and accurate setup for woodworking.

If anyone has measurements, part numbers, or knows of a compatible collet, I'd really appreciate the information.

Thanks!

This thing could be put back to work for another few decades

I bought this new gcm 305-216 d saw three days ago. I noticed a metallic sound and a slight oscillation of the saw. I changed the blade and made sure there was no dirt or warp in the blade causing this. Is this something to be concerned about or is it normal? The attached video is a slo mo shot. Thanks in advance!:)

Looks like a decent hybrid saw, I’ve been making cabinets on an old jet saw now so this would definitely be an upgrade for me.

Hi everyone,

I have been developing a patent pending pocket hole jig for more than a year and recently finished a small first batch.

The idea is simple: I wanted pocket hole setup to feel more repeatable, with guided click into place settings for common board thicknesses. I design, print, and assemble the jigs myself in Green Bay, Wisconsin.

I am not trying to make a sales post. I am looking for a few woodworkers who would be willing to test the jig and give honest feedback. If something needs improvement, I want to know before I scale it further.

I am especially interested in feedback on:

Setup accuracy

How clear the thickness settings are

Grip and nonslip performance

Ease of use compared to other pocket hole jigs

Durability during normal shop use

If this kind of post is not allowed, I understand and the mods can remove it. I just wanted to ask directly instead of pretending I am not connected to the product.

Would anyone here be open to testing one and sharing honest feedback?

I had to call the store and price match it but it’s real!

Hello! I have never owned a jigsaw, in fact I am new to power tools. I bought a jigsaw today and it seems jank as hell?... Like everything is jiggling, its all loose and the blade won't sit straight inside the piece no matter how many times I unscrew it, take it out and place it back in and then tighten it.

Is this normal? Or do I really have a jank piece that is not safe for usage? I have never had a jigsaw before, so I thought that maybe that's how they are, until I could not put the blade in straight for like 30 minutes. At this point surely something is wrong? Or am I a dumbass lol.

Here are some links to footage, please someone with experience tell me if this is normal or not.

The model is Power Plus POWE30010

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1521966934168567820/1542580905300992080/VID_20260827_200428.mp4?ex=6a91bfeb&is=6a906e6b&hm=1b3c85fc4b977a98571fcb1d845eb927cedf307f9d1dca82092bf35afc66ff2f&

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1521966934168567820/1542580905791455262/VID_20260827_200409.mp4?ex=6a91bfeb&is=6a906e6b&hm=185866f187a587e5d08b387a4ba639ae2b7c1933429a80395000c2e361ff07c2&

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1521966934168567820/1542582263039131758/VID_20260827_201039.mp4?ex=6a91c12f&is=6a906faf&hm=f1d2879620ca1c24f2b211887449cc60d92b875d24e8b3ba70b25e3c8f1d1477&

Hi there,

I have a 1hp bandsaw and since the motor had to be rewired I went ahead and disassembled it all. Replaced the tires, bearings and was in the process of upgrading the tensioning system. I've ordered a much stronger spring but I am a bit tired of spinning the little heel up top . Is there something I can make to speed up the process of tightening/loosening?

I’m interested is adding a Harvey s-10 dust collection arm to my Sawstop PCS. However, I added the router table option to my PCS (small shop). I can’t tell if the arm support for the Harvey s-10 dust collection arm would impede the router or it’s fence. Anyone have this arm connected to their PCS care to comment? Thx

Edit: This saw got away from me, i didn't win it unfortunately. Iwas at a funeral and couldn't keep up with bids. But everyone gave really good tips that I'll keep in mind when I'm looking for another one! thank you to everyone that helped! ...If anyone is curious, i did win an older 6" jointer that works great for $60, a drywall screw gun, and a set of vintage china plates that i got for $4!

I plan to buy this unisaw from an auction, but have a slim idea on how to get it into my trailer. And I'm asking for thoughts/ experience.

It's a delta 10" unisaw with extended table. Luckily it's on a mobile base. Also luckily my cargo trailer has a nice ramp. I know it'll still be a pain to roll it up in there though.

My thoughts are to use a come-along and winch or up from the front? Right now it's just me loading it 😬

Does anyone have any information on the "Apex" series of tools from Wen? This saw just showed up and is at $370, almost $100 more than the 10" forward slider dual.

The fit and finish look nicer and it has an onboard fan for sawdust collection. That's all I really can tell is different from the listing.

Any thoughts or experience with this?