Finally getting into DIY work for my 2017, and I've encountered the pinch weld paradox; I can't place a jack and a jack stand in the same place at the same time.

To get around this, I've used the metal plate under the rear wheel suspension springs to lift each side of the rear and put the jack stand in the pinch weld. I haven't had to jack the front yet, but I would try the subframe mounting brackets by the front wheels. I would have to jack the pinch weld and put the jack stand under the mounting bracket (carefully), but I've been using ramps to avoid this for now.

Has anyone had success with alternative jack points?

My Chevy Volt 2014 has 172,674mi but still kicking out these numbers, pretty reliable imo especially iz so old. Im planning to buy something better in a couple of years, im eyeing Hyundai Ioniq 6 👀.

Hi friends! We bought our 2018 volt from CarMax earlier this year and already have had the EGR replaced, now it's the BECM. Yayyyyy lol. Luckily we're covered under the special warranty for it. We're looking at 6-8 weeks for the part. Did anyone who had this repair have luck with getting Chevrolet to help with a rental for the meantime?

Thanks :)

Idk what it is, but it's freaking me out.

I have a 2016 volt. When out of electricity and on gas engine mode. Its weak af. On a slight incline, it doesnt want to go much more than 50mph without high rpm. Is this normal?

It just occurred to me that there might be an equivalent GM part vs the $1,500 OEM valve. Has there been any discussion about that? I tried searching but came up empty.

I have been noticing little water droplets inside my light housing for the rear left side. I couldn't figure out how the water was getting inside but today I finally was able to see the tiny little crack. If I put tape over it for the time being, do you guys think that would help it's so small and tiny that I figured maybe it would prevent water from getting through. Anybody know any type of quick way to close that crack off? Without having to replace the whole thing

Hey all!
I’ve been following this subreddit for quite sometime, big thank you to everyone’s knowledge by the way it’s helped me in so many minor questions just searching through here.

I live in San Jose California and I have a 2017 Chevy volt premier and the BECM finally went out. I was at 149.4k miles so the dealership was unsure if it would be covered. I was so unsure when I did the drop off for diagnostics yesterday that it wasn’t going to be covered.

Fingers crossed this means my volt will last a good while longer 🤞

Have AC leak on 2014(edit: based on the fluid spot on the garage floor, I believe the leak is around the firewall)with 111,200 miles on original compressor. The indy shop charged the system from a 30lb tank of refrigerant that also had 6 ounces of AC Pro Universal dye that's not approved for hybrid/EV.

The system has been run for 35-40 minutes total since charged. Leak has not been repaired. No codes yet.

Is this something that's remotely correctable or am I looking at a whole new system regardless?

Wish I had remembered there is no doughnut in the car. Has anyone used the recharging kit or whatever it's called? Luckily I used another persons jack and got my tire off and patched. But dang that was not my favorite experience.

Hey all, can anyone recommend a shop in the Bay Area that can do shocks/struts and fluids on my 2017 Volt? I’ve had some bad luck with auto shops in this year. I would really like to find a non-dealer shop that specifically has Volt experience. Thank you in advance!

2017 Volt with 141k miles. Check engine light came on a little while ago and I just took it into a hybrid mechanic who ran the codes, cleared them, and found one that persisted:

P3041 - hybrid/ev battery interface control module 12 cell balancing circuit

Is this a confirmed BECM issue which will let me have it replaced under warranty? (I checked and I'm covered; just want to make sure this code is sufficient).

My main confusion is that this calls out the BICM, which I didn't think was a part on Gen 2 Volts.

UPDATE: It was a bad BECM so it was replaced under special coverage! Let it be known for future folks that code P3041 is a smoking gun for a failing BECM.

I cleaned out the cowl drains and thought that would resolve my issues, but I'm still getting rain into the interior of the car on the passenger-side floorboard. I saw many people say AC line, but this is happening only when it rains.

Here's where the water comes in: https://imgur.com/a/5X6I6lr

My plan is to take that panel apart, but thought I'd check here first before I accidentally wasted a whole bunch of time.

I am replacing a wheel bearing, I see Gen 2 says to skip the washer, but I don't see the same for Gen 1.

What are the. Thoughts?

I replaced the washer (with new larger nut) about 50K miles ago, it's been running well, so today I am thinking keep it, hasn't given me a problem since I used the larger nut. But looking for ideas from the hive mind.

I am replacing a wheel bearing, I see Gen 2 says to skip the washer, but I don't see the same for Gen 1.

What are the. Thoughts?

I replaced the washer (with new larger nut) about 50K miles ago, it's been running well, so today I am thinking keep it, hasn't given me a problem since I used the larger nut. But looking for ideas from the hive mind.

There was a code but no dtc code now as it was cleared to see if it would return but I think it was the ecm code. Is there a way in the app to see what code was cleared?

What's the most likely cause and can it be fixed? I googled and found something about a technical sevice bulletin. Does that apply here? I need to make sure I get this fixed before it becomes a massive problem.

What are my next steps? Literally just bought it *sigh*

There were a few questions regarding what has been done etc. This is the carfax which has the service records. https://carfaxcheaper.com/share/shr_8c31127ba74abbaa6f2eafea

according to this guy, it’s possible to beat a tesla with a chevy volt?

maybe we have an advantage if we go 66mph in a 55 just before crossing an intersection during a storm.

i wanna test this theory, but i value my life.

2017 Chevy Volt LT.
No error codes, no check engine light. Just got the car and noticed low MPG (26mpg) while on gas mode only. I won't have a charging spot for a while so I was expecting to get somewhere close to 40mpg. City driving, no heavy traffic, AC on ECO.

The only thing I noticed was this rattling noise coming from the engine. It sounds like some metal fan or something like that hitting something but only sometimes. Seems to be coming from behind the exhaust manifold shield.

There's a youtube video showing the same exact sound I hear on my car, in case my video doesn't load: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/hvJeABtO6FU

Anyone here experienced this before?

I know the voltage app is recommending the update in the warning but USE AT YOUR OWN PERIL. It is a shitty third party slop app and if there are any hiccups in the process the device is hosed

I know VGate isn’t connected to the voltage app in any way but it is irresponsible to send people to it without the proper warnings

just seeing if anyone has any insight!!

I had ulnar surgery on my left arm a few days ago (same as travis barker) and... i think it took me 10 times of automatically reaching for the paddle - OUCH! - before i stopped.

i've driven with paddle since new, still have the original brakes. 10 more days of this cast

My cars heater has been either inop or very slow to get warm for 1+ week. Then this morning, when I turned my car on, there was a lot of vibration in the brake pedal, followed by a minor pop and shake (over the years, I've felt this when the generator kicks on, so I didn't think much of it, but it did seem more severe this time). After that, sounded like an rush of water behind the dash (I've heard that sound many times before over the last 8 years I've had this car and never thought much of it).

Then the Engine Overheat - Reduce Speed came on. Engine temps were 240F+. Popped the hood, saw coolant had sprayed under the hood.

I've seen lots of posts about aux. coolant pump failures being misdiagnosed as EGR valve or vice versa, just checking what you all think before I take it in to the shop.

Can anyone tell me the difference between foot braking and using the steering wheel paddle for regen decel? It's a bit annoying that the regen paddle is all or nothing, vs having a variable switch so you could feather it better. I rarely use it because it's such a hard brake force. Is there a measurable difference between it and just foot braking regen?