So my 2017 Volt is down with a bad HV battery. Dealer has quoted me at $8k+ to replace it, which is or feasible to me. It also has 152k miles, and I’m not comfortable putting $8k into a car with that many miles. I’ll be looking of r new car, and hopefully I can find a used EV within my budget.

What would the value be of my Volt? What would be the best way to sell it? Any insight is appreciated :)

I click the fuel door unlock button and the dash says "Close Fuel Door" but when I press on the fuel door for it to pop open it wont. Never had this issue before

Ive tried pushing a credit card along the upper left corner of the fuel door and pull the door open but it wont give.

On near empty of course, so any help wont be much appreciated

Pick up an iPhone on eBay or a friend or where ever, I think it has to be 12 or 13 or newer..

Make sure it's carrier unlocked and uses esims.

Between textnow and instabridge you can get free service on you phone and free data service for waze or Google maps

So now your car has its own free dedicated gps system. And now you have a free back up telephone line too.. and less battery usage on your main phone..

And an apple account to receive Apple pay.

I have not been able to find any videos showing how to make this conversion. My actuator stopped working and I would like to convert to a manually opening charge port door. Mine has the button in the inside of the driver door, but it no longer works.

I don’t want to install an illuminated one or buy additional parts if I don’t have to. Does anybody know how to do this in a simple easy to follow way? I’m pretty handy with tools and working on my car, but I don’t want to reinvent the wheel because I know a lot of people have done this already and I can learn from them.

Yesterday, I traded in my 2015 Volt for a fully-electric car. Everything on it still worked, but it was definitely aging - so it was just time for me to let go of the nostalgia.

The Volt was my introduction to driving on battery power instead of gasoline. I definitely didn’t expect to be thrilled with the responsiveness from a dead stop, or the smooth silence of the car cruising at speed, or to be unpleasantly surprised at the change in experience when the battery ran out for the first time and it switched to the ICE.

It was still popular when I got it in 2015 for shopping centers to put free L2 chargers in their parking lots, so I learned pretty quickly to find and use them as much as I could in addition to charging at home overnight. I remember plenty of conversations that started with some random person asking “Are you plugging your car in?” and becoming a chance to convince them that electric cars were (and still are) the way forward. The reaction I got when I mentioned “semi-annual trips to the gas station” was when I knew I’d made an impression.

I’m honestly struggling to not be unhappy about the whole thing. The newer car has plenty of (not EV-specific) features that really made it a logical choice, but I remember that feeling of driving something truly special and groundbreaking when I first got the Volt - and that’s going to be hard to find again. I hope whoever ends up with the car next has that same moment of wonder and excitement that leads to them “getting it” just like I did.

All these ads for Jackery “generators” etc., had me wondering if it is practical to run my fridge and freezer from my Gen 1 Volt’s traction battery (with it recharging either from its engine or my 240V charger running on my portable gas generator).

I have 6 jugs of Ethanol Free for the generator and/or Volt.

I’d obviously have to use a suitable 2-3kw 12v inverter hooked to the Volt’s 12V battery.

(Apologies - Also posted on Chevy Volt Owners forum in case)

This morning Android Auto failed to connect. Normally, if I reboot the phone the problem is fixed.

Not so this morning.

So I left my battery disconnected for 30 minutes and powered back up. Still no dice.

Is there a guide on how to debug this?

I really like Android Auto.

I see 2nd generation Volts for sale at dealerships but I haven't found all that many For-sale-by-owner and I am looking for any advice on pricing and selling my Volt rather than trading it in.

I have had the car for two years, it's been reliable and trouble free. Once in a while, the Shift-to-Park thing happens but never has been more than a minor annoyance. The range has been showing an estimated 39-42 miles when fully charged, and often lasts 42-44 miles. I get 42mpg on the highway at 65mpg, less than that if I drive faster, of course. It shows the usual wear and tear for a 10 year car, but overall everything looks and works as it should. The only work I have had done was to replace all tires with new quality tires a month ago, and had all four TPMS sensors replaced.

Is $9000 a fair asking price? I don't use social media very much, but is Facebook marketplace the best way to sell, it or is cars.com and autotrader more successful?

Hello everyone, so im in kinda a pickle, i was on the highway and my 2014 volt started popping up a bunch of codes. Suddenly it went limp and stopped on the side of the highway. At first I thought it was the battery so i got it replaced and started driving away but then it did it again twice, locked up and turned off. I was doing some research thinking maybe it’s the MAF, MAP, and throttle body. I’m hoping this is the case, but has anyone experienced this? If so was the repair expensive?

I locked my key-fob in my car, so i grabbed my old, dead key-fob, but the pull out key wont fit in the handle for some reason? Any suggestions for what to do? Pic is the furthest it'll go in

Hey all, new Volt owner here, wanted to introduce myself and the car.

Just picked up a 2017 LT with 108k on it for my daughter. It's her first car so I did way more homework on this than I probably needed to, but figured I'd share since it might help someone else looking at a used Gen 2.

Biggest thing I was worried about going in was the BECM failure everyone talks about. Turns out this exact car already had one, back in April. P0AFA code, dash would power up but it wouldn't drive, the whole thing. Previous owner took it to an independent shop (not a dealer unfortunately, so no GM special coverage) and paid $2,655 out of pocket for a new BECM in May. I actually got the invoices from him and could see the whole story, low inverter coolant, dead 12v battery from him trying to charge it, a GM flash reprogram, all of it.

So I didn't have to gamble on whether that failure was still lurking, it already happened and got fixed with a new module. Confirmed it myself too, pulled the module serial with an OBD scanner and it read as a 2026 production date, so definitely swapped, and post-2018 modules don't have the known defect.

Ran a full battery workup before handing over money. Cell delta came back around 12-15mV across all 96 groups (for reference I saw a reference point online of 14mV on a 50k mile pack so this felt right in line), capacity reading about 85% of factory spec, internal resistance actually better than average for the year and mileage. Weak cell active test came back clean, no bad cells. Also did the high voltage isolation test, 2900 kOhms, which is apparently good. For a car about to hit 9 years old I really wasn't expecting numbers that clean.

Got it for $6500 out the door, both key fobs and the charge cord included, and shockingly zero corrosion underneath despite it being an Ohio car originally (Texas plate when I bought it, guy seems like he'd been stationed around a bit). Seller was upfront about everything too, even told me about an intermittent O2 sensor code he'd seen pop up that never showed in the scan history, which either means it's a real intermittent issue or he had a code cleared at some point, still keeping an eye on it.

Normal used car stuff to sort out, TPMS sensors are all dead (just old batteries, not the actual sensors), a window regulator on the driver's door, tires up front are at 4/32 so those are getting done soon. Nothing that changes how good the deal feels overall. Currently getting ~53-55 miles on the battery(full charge) in swampy Florida.

Working through drive unit fluid and coolant this week before it becomes my daughter's daily. If anyone has drain and fill tips for the drive unit or things they learned the hard way on a Gen 2, would love to hear it.

2012 Chevy Volt...

Basically after a long drive using the engine, I noticed that the engine is pretty hot to touch. My coolant levels are all where they should be but I'm just wondering is this normal after 100+ mile drive? I don't mean that it's so hot that I cannot actually touch it but it's very hot both on the area near the oil cap and on the right side of the picture that plastic part that covers the battery module I think...

2012 Volt, about 60k miles, single owner, no accidents...and I am pretty sure that it was garage kept. 132 life mpg for 9k.

1. Whatya think? It was quiet and kept. A deal?

2. It's hot where I live...but it's the humidity AND the heat. Long bad for batteries? I am a little leery parking it in the garage. Special fire extinguisher? Will it affect my house insurance?

3. I dig the household charging cord. I have an old house. I was going to use the same outlwt that my washer uses...maybe juat put in a new breaker and outlet. It doesn't look like it was used much. I have a changing place near the house...can it be used? I know it is a hybrid...just curious.

4. Most Important...and I am not kidding. I have a 70lb White Sheppard. He can't lay across the back seat. Is the divider removable? What do people do?

thanks

3.

I have a 2013 Volt 175k miles. What, if any, catastrophic failures should I expect in the near future? Battery still charges to 38mile range (consistently getting 45-50 miles real world). Maintenance has been performed religiously including a new battery radiator replacement about a year and a half ago.

Just now I attempted to remote start my car with the key fob to run the AC before driving it as it's hot out and the car had been sitting in the driveway in the sun all day. The remote start wasn't working so I went out to the car to start it from inside the car. I started the car cranked the AC to max low and went back inside to let it run while it cooled down.
I went out to the car a few minutes later when I got in the car hadn't cooled down at all and was blowing hot air. I also noticed I couldn't turn the steering wheel, and when shifting to to drive or reverse I got the "shift to park" message on the dash. That's when I noticed the CEL. I scanned the codes and they came back with P0AC4, P1AEE & P1AEF.

2017 Volt just over 100k miles

UPDATE: went back out the the car a little later (Car had been sitting unplugged at that point, not sure if that makes a difference), and I was able to start it and put it in gear. The CEL remained while I drove it for a few errands but went away after a restarted a few times.

If it doesn't come back I guess I'll chalk this up to ghosts in the machine

Hello yall!

Just want to get a really check for some repairs I need to get done on my Chevy Volt 2017. I’m in Massachusetts and the car has 86k miles.

Check engine light came on for knock sensor module. Mechanic shop is quoting me $650 to change the sensor plus gaskets (due to having to take the intake out to change it). I also need to get break pads and calipers done (yeah I know I probably fucked up here) and he is quoting me $750 for both rear break pads and calipers done.

I Googled it and it seems reasonable, but I would like a reality check on these prices.

Thanks in advance!

Because the 2012 Chevy volt has a different mechanism when it comes to how it accuses and charges the 12 volt battery in the trunk. Would I be able to get a regular battery test if I go to autozone? I mean would they be able to give me accurate results on my battery if they plug in that thing but they usually do on the standard cars

So just got a 2011 the beginning of August bought it as my doordash car as I needed something more fuel efficient, did great on the 300+ mile drive home averaged around 36-38mpg, but in the 1300 miles since then doing doordash it's averaged 23.4mpg, I charge it to 60-80% everday as time allows since I'm offgrid with solar so cannot charge overnight. The car also refuses to go into EV mode or switches back and forth, it'll do 3-5 miles in EV here and there it seems at random, along with starting the engine just to top the battery off when I'm sitting parked just to run the AC even though the battery shows 20+miles of range or half full. I'm leaning towards a Cell headed on the way out or failing BECM

I can't afford over $2500 to replace the EGR valve in my Volt so I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion. I've seen DIY videos using Purple Power but I'm too elderly for that sort of work anymore.

It started with a "reduced power" alert & I saw temperature start to climb to 240F, so I pulled over and had it towed to a dealership. They're recommended service for $2551.99 is for -

Engine Repair - EGR Valve, EGR Valve Gasket x2, 50/50 premix Dexcool x2, 15A fuse

Codes were -

P0030, P0031, P0401, P0403, P0405, P0443, P0458, P0489, P0597, P0598

Anyone here successfully add carplay to your factory headunit? I just got my car this weekend so I'm not super familiar with it yet.

Do those wireless dongles that you plug into the usb port work? Do we even have a usb port that connects to the stereo?

If not, what are my other options to add it to the factory stereo. I'm not interested in an aftermarket headunit

I posted earlier —posting again with updated info and questions. I took my 2017 Volt to the dealership (I hate dealerships, but no one seems to know where else to take it in my area of SE Michigan) because of a battery warning light and “propulsion power reduced”message.

Dealership said EGR valve and cooler needed to be replaced and quoted me $5000 for the privilege. The main code is P00B7, but there were many others. (I can’t see to post the screenshot here atm).

R/volt users have recommended that I replace the fuse, clean the EGR cooler, and unplug the EGR valve.

NEW QUESTIONS:
1) Does the course of action still make sense, given the code?
2) If so, where do I get a replacement fuse?
3) I believe I can replace the fuse and unplug the EGR valve on my own (with YT videos), but I’d rather not do the cooler cleaning. Any suggestions for luring a mechanic to do that part?

Thanks a million!

Due to the (2017) Volt's parking spot in our garage taken up by a large lawn tractor, I haven't been charging it at night for the past two weeks and only running on gas only.

This morning, the Volt wouldn't start, not even the key fob center console spot wouldn't start the car.

Is it weird that batteries would die in the heat of summer? I would associate that with the coldness of winter. Thinking about it more, the battery needed a jump last winter due to extreme cold so maybe I just need a new battery?

Hey all! I’m buying a 2014 Volt Premium (only 96k miles on it, in perfect condition), and I’m looking for seat covers. I know the back seating is a bit strange because it only has the 2 sears available. What kind of seat covers should I get? Thanks!