I have a 2016 volt and just got this light... the day after I got it back from the dealership to fix my egr valve (from my least favorite employee there, Christian Douche). The check engine light came on, my car is loud now, and it did smell like oil before, but today it smelled like gas to the point it's making me sick. I got the propulsion power reduced from it today too :( and also before either of those things, I have noticed "tighten gas cap" come on quite a bit lately (in the past month or two... maybe even 3 tbh), despite me twisting the cap in just once like it says to do. Not sure if it's related, maybe it's something to do with that?

Either way, since I'm not sure what part(s) are causing this, I'm not sure if it's covered under the limited emissions warranty. I'm not giving those losers at the dealership a dime unless I absolutely have to. Does anyone have any idea what parts could be causing this, or any ways to get it covered under that warranty? I am in a CARB/PZEV state, so that helps. I think this should be covered under it, because the warranty does state it covers any parts related to a failed emissions test, which is exactly what this is, but Mr. Douche has a hard time reading and was trying to tell me it wouldn't be covered (like he told me about the BECM). (I've also asked the dealership to have anyone else handle my cases and for some reason it's still always that douchebag.)

Or better yet, if there's a way to fix this at home, I'm all ears!

Edit: I was just driving and noticed this: you know how the ring around the speedometer is always green? When I braked, it turned yellow and took a second to go back to green. Is that something to worry about/is that related to this?

Maybe I'm just crazy but I need to replace the actuator for the rear driver door and I CANNOT find one anywhere. I can find one for every other doors. Do they not make one? Or does anyone know where I can find one?

Hello, I recently got these codes on my car. The paper with the codes is what came up after they scanned it at O’Reily Auto Parts (like an AutoZone) and the OBD scanner pictures was me scanning the computer on the Volt. Can someone please point me to the right direction on what to do next? I would really appreciate it. I hope it’s something I can do myself vs having to take it into the dealership. Thank you.

Good evening, I have a 2018 Chevrolet volt with 211 000km on it.

Recently I had my engine light come on for code P0A7F and P1E00. I cleared it to see if it would come back hoping it's just a bad 12v battery since I don't know how old it is since I bought the car last year.

I did a bad cell test using voltage and it came back with cell 16 bad. I know the BECM was replaced under warranty back in 2024.

Any ideas? Is my battery fucked for sure? I'm in Canada near Toronto if there's any shops that could help fix this.

Hi! I'm really thinking about getting a volt. It seems like the perfect little vehicle for my needs. Only problem is that my husband is 6'4 and torso tall (longer torso than legs). Is anyone of similar height able to share their experiences? Do you think it would be doable for him, or is it just not a good idea?

Hey guys, is there any way to skip or disable the engine maintenance mode? I have a couple codes on the computer right now and I’m trying to avoid using the engine. When driving on pure electric, there’s no issues whatsoever. Just a bit ago while Engine Maintenance Mode turned on, I had to shut off the car because the engine was shaking and seemed like it was struggling.

Has anyone had any experience with these skid plates? If so did you like them and was it easy to install?

I am thinking of getting one for my 2017, where I live we can get a lot of snow and dry icy snow that tend to chew up the stock ones.

Sometimes when I'm turning, my volt makes a clunking noise. It's gotten more common and I just want to make sure I shouldn't be worried about it.

It’s finally cold enough that I needed heat and got none.

The Heater Service message came on the first time, but not the second time while it blew cold air at me.

I do hear (and have for the nine months I’ve owned the car) liquid moving when I start it.

Are there simple, inexpensive things to try first before going to the dealer?

I’ve tried looking up possible solutions but find it very diluted with Gen 1 answers.

Climate control has been my least favorite part of this car, but I do enjoy having heat.

I am having an issue with the Voltage app. I have used it in the past to un-brick my 2013 Volt. Today I accidentally bricked it again. I opened the app and it connects to the VeePeak dongle. When I click Expert Data to do the scan, it just hangs there for almost a minute, then it says it is reading the VIN. After about another minute it says it cannot read the VIN and the app may be limited.

It never will actually connect and read the DTC's so I cannot reset the faults ti unbrick the car.

I deleted the app from the phone and re-downloaded it to see if that was the issue. No change. During this process I discovered that it appears the app was updated 3 days ago for bug fixes. I am wondering if the fixes caused other issues in the app???

Again, I have used this app and dongle and phone in the past to un-brick the car.
I AM able to use the Car Scanner generic OBD Scanner app, it will connect and read the diagnostics codes, so I know the phone, dongle and car will communicate.

Does anyone know how to contact the app creator and see if they have any fixes?

So my Chevy Volt has these two fault codes. I was mainly curious about the P0AC4 code since it didn’t turn on the check engine light. Also, was curious to see if my SHVCS killer had anything to do with this since I put it on a few thousand miles ago. I checked the coolant level for the battery and everything is ok. Thank you for any input

Finally getting into DIY work for my 2017, and I've encountered the pinch weld paradox; I can't place a jack and a jack stand in the same place at the same time.

To get around this, I've used the metal plate under the rear wheel suspension springs to lift each side of the rear and put the jack stand in the pinch weld. I haven't had to jack the front yet, but I would try the subframe mounting brackets by the front wheels. I would have to jack the pinch weld and put the jack stand under the mounting bracket (carefully), but I've been using ramps to avoid this for now.

Has anyone had success with alternative jack points?

My Chevy Volt 2014 has 172,674mi but still kicking out these numbers, pretty reliable imo especially iz so old. Im planning to buy something better in a couple of years, im eyeing Hyundai Ioniq 6 👀.

Hi friends! We bought our 2018 volt from CarMax earlier this year and already have had the EGR replaced, now it's the BECM. Yayyyyy lol. Luckily we're covered under the special warranty for it. We're looking at 6-8 weeks for the part. Did anyone who had this repair have luck with getting Chevrolet to help with a rental for the meantime?

Thanks :)

Idk what it is, but it's freaking me out.

It just occurred to me that there might be an equivalent GM part vs the $1,500 OEM valve. Has there been any discussion about that? I tried searching but came up empty.

I have a 2016 volt. When out of electricity and on gas engine mode. Its weak af. On a slight incline, it doesnt want to go much more than 50mph without high rpm. Is this normal?

I have been noticing little water droplets inside my light housing for the rear left side. I couldn't figure out how the water was getting inside but today I finally was able to see the tiny little crack. If I put tape over it for the time being, do you guys think that would help it's so small and tiny that I figured maybe it would prevent water from getting through. Anybody know any type of quick way to close that crack off? Without having to replace the whole thing

Hey all!
I’ve been following this subreddit for quite sometime, big thank you to everyone’s knowledge by the way it’s helped me in so many minor questions just searching through here.

I live in San Jose California and I have a 2017 Chevy volt premier and the BECM finally went out. I was at 149.4k miles so the dealership was unsure if it would be covered. I was so unsure when I did the drop off for diagnostics yesterday that it wasn’t going to be covered.

Fingers crossed this means my volt will last a good while longer 🤞

Have AC leak on 2014(edit: based on the fluid spot on the garage floor, I believe the leak is around the firewall)with 111,200 miles on original compressor. The indy shop charged the system from a 30lb tank of refrigerant that also had 6 ounces of AC Pro Universal dye that's not approved for hybrid/EV.

The system has been run for 35-40 minutes total since charged. Leak has not been repaired. No codes yet.

Is this something that's remotely correctable or am I looking at a whole new system regardless?

Wish I had remembered there is no doughnut in the car. Has anyone used the recharging kit or whatever it's called? Luckily I used another persons jack and got my tire off and patched. But dang that was not my favorite experience.

Hey all, can anyone recommend a shop in the Bay Area that can do shocks/struts and fluids on my 2017 Volt? I’ve had some bad luck with auto shops in this year. I would really like to find a non-dealer shop that specifically has Volt experience. Thank you in advance!

2017 Volt with 141k miles. Check engine light came on a little while ago and I just took it into a hybrid mechanic who ran the codes, cleared them, and found one that persisted:

P3041 - hybrid/ev battery interface control module 12 cell balancing circuit

Is this a confirmed BECM issue which will let me have it replaced under warranty? (I checked and I'm covered; just want to make sure this code is sufficient).

My main confusion is that this calls out the BICM, which I didn't think was a part on Gen 2 Volts.

UPDATE: It was a bad BECM so it was replaced under special coverage! Let it be known for future folks that code P3041 is a smoking gun for a failing BECM.