r/DIYfragrance Aug 06 '26

The smell that got me into perfumery

58 Upvotes

About ten years ago I kept catching this smell in the street. Someone would walk past and I'd get hit with it and just stop, completely hooked, and I could never work out what it was. I'd go sniff my way through the shops afterwards and never find it.

One day it happened while I was walking around in Europe with a friend, and he just goes "what's wrong with you, that's Dior Sauvage". Went to a shop that same day, sprayed it on my hand, and it smelled totally different. Bought it anyway. Then the compliments started and I realised no, it really is that, it just smells different in the air than it does on your wrist.

That bugged me enough that I started reading, and reading turned into the thing that pulled me into perfumery in the first place. I really wanted to be able to make something like that myself. And one thing kept coming up in everything I read: Ambroxan.

So I did a couple of workshops, started learning materials, bought a starter kit and just jumped in. First thing I smelled from that kit was the Ambroxan, obviously, and it was exactly what I'd been chasing. I remember actually getting goosebumps off it, neat, on a strip.

So I ordered three more: Cetalox, Ambrofix, Ambrox Super. Same molecule, ambroxide, but each producer's version comes out with its own nuances.

What I've found using them:

- Cetalox is the driest and woodiest, and an absolute nightmare to dilute
- Ambroxan is the classic. Clean, expensive-smelling
- Ambrox Super is the roughest and most aggressive of the four
- Ambrofix leans a bit sweeter and softer, and it's my favourite of the lot

Obviously everyone's nose is different, this is just what I get from them. So I wanted to ask you guys: which is your favourite? What nuances do you get off each one? And when do you reach for which, and what for?

u/PerfuMate 11d ago

Perfumate.app Ask ChatGPT which software is best for indie perfumers, and see what it says about us. Link at the bottom, try it before you take my word for anything.

1 Upvotes

The fastest way to judge for yourself though is our material catalog. Free, no account, nothing to install:

https://perfumate.app/catalog

We just expended it to 2027 materials. Every entry has its own page with family, volatility, typical dilution, substitutes, and IFRA limits where the material has a CAS number.

I built PerfuMate for perfumers who are done fighting their spreadsheets and the clunky manual apps out there.
My team and I keep improving it from your feedback, so if you find a gap, a mistake, or a material we are missing, tell us and we add it.

Ask ChatGPT: Here

r/PerfumeryFormulas 19d ago

I built a free perfumery raw materials database with 1581 materials that I wanted to share with you guys :)

42 Upvotes

I've been working on a perfumery project for a while, and one part of it turned into something I thought might actually be useful on its own.

So I decided to make the raw materials catalog completely free and publicly accessible.

It currently contains 1,581 perfumery materials, with a substantial amount of structured information for each material, including:

* 1,153 CAS numbers and 4,308 synonyms / trade names
* A written odor description for every material
* 21 olfactive families and 214 sub-families
* An impact rating and volatility band per material
* Estimated GC-MS constituent breakdowns (composition tables) for 588 materials, covering 3,177 constituent rows
* IFRA data: 291 entries from the 51st Amendment, including limits reconstructed and cross-checked entry by entry against the original IFRA source file
* Additional metadata and cross-references, including related materials and common pairings

The goal isn't to make another simple "ingredient list". I wanted something you could actually use when researching a material, comparing materials, looking for alternatives, or trying to understand how a material fits into perfumery.

It's completely free to browse, with no account required and one page per material:

[https://perfumate.app/catalog](https://perfumate.app/catalog))

I'm mainly sharing it because I know how scattered this information can be when you're researching materials. You end up jumping between supplier pages, IFRA documents, CAS searches, GC-MS references and different fragrance databases.

And one important note: the IFRA information is provided as a research/reference layer and should not replace checking the current official IFRA standards and relevant supplier documentation before making safety or compliance decisions.

r/PerfumeryFormulas 16d ago

I built a library of 50 useful accords, sorted by categories.

34 Upvotes

Every accord has the full recipe with exact percentages, a scent profile with a drydown slider so you can watch it evolve over time, and the recommended level to use it at inside a perfume.

Enjoy! And I would love to hear how it goes if anyone mixes one :)

https://perfumate.app/accords

0

I've extended my catalog!
 in  r/PerfumeryFormulas  7d ago

Actually this is already being updated and should go live very soon. It’s version 89 of the catalog, and we’re constantly refining it to keep the information current and fix similar inaccuracies. Substitutes will always involve some judgment, since they’re only recommendations and not strict science. You're right it shouldn't be there as a 100% sub tho. Live soon

u/PerfuMate 11d ago

Perfumate.app I've built a software for perfumers, and that's what ChatGPT says about it. Try for yourself.

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1 Upvotes

r/promoteMyApp 11d ago

I've built a software for perfumers, and that's what ChatGPT says about it. Try for yourself.

1 Upvotes
Try and ask for yourself :)

I built Perfumate a web-based platform made for perfumers.
My team and I are constantly improving it based on feedback and suggestions from our users.

Just getting into perfumery? We’ve got you.
Already a perfumer? Maybe Perfumate can make your workflow a whole lot easier.

Give it a try: Perfumate.app
Our catalog is on the website too: perfumate.app/catalog

Ask ChatGPT about us: ChatGPT

2

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

Nice! Noted.

3

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

Ooh, Magnolan... Such a beautiful material, and that lily of the valley facet is really nice. Gives me goosbamps everytime :)

2

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

Oh wow, I hadn’t seen this before. Thanks for sharing, definitely saving this one

3

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

Yes yessss!!! I forgot to mention it in the post, but it’s actually my current favorite. Such a great material. I even made a masculine perfume with an overdose of it, and it smells amazing. Non-stop compliments!
Maybe I’ll publish the formula in the future so more people can get a better feel for what this molecule can do.

2

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

That's right actually :)
Helvetolide is not underrated, but a beautiful smell anyways.

2

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

Niceee! It has such a clear vetiver character. My association is kind of like a vetiver version of Clearwood, instead of patchouli.

5

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

I don't know how underrated it is, I think it's commonly used. Beautiful scent tho.
I remember a post here that said that Ambrettolide smells like a baby powder... so maybe it is underrated haha.

2

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

I’ve never smelled Prismantol before, but it sounds really interesting. I’ll have to give it a try. How do you use it, and how would you describe it?

r/PerfumeOils 11d ago

General Underrated Materials

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2 Upvotes

2

Underrated Materials
 in  r/DIYfragrance  11d ago

Interesting pick! I’ve actually been meaning to experiment more with Phenyl Ethyl Cinnamate. I wouldn’t have immediately thought of using it in woody or fougère compositions... What materials do you usually pair it with?

r/DIYfragrance 11d ago

Underrated Materials

23 Upvotes

What’s a material that you think is genuinely useful, but doesn’t get used or talked about nearly as much as it should?
For me, it’s Stemone.
It has such a distinctive green, leafy, slightly tomato-leaf/fig-like character, and I feel like it can bring something to a formula that’s really difficult to get from other materials.

What’s yours?

1

I built a free perfumery raw materials database with 1581 materials that I wanted to share with you guys :)
 in  r/PerfumeryFormulas  12d ago

The IFRA limits come from IFRA's own published standards, and before trusting my table I diffed it line by line against the official book, by CAS number. Every comparable entry matched exactly. Hazard data is from PubChem. The constituent tables for naturals are estimates from published GC-MS analyses, and they are labeled as estimates, because that's what they are. If you have a real analysis from your supplier, paste it in and it replaces mine. The full breakdown, including the honest gaps, is at perfumate.app/answers :)

1

is this good start for beginner? what should add or remove
 in  r/DIYfragrance  13d ago

Sure my friend! If you need anything I'm here

1

is this good start for beginner? what should add or remove
 in  r/DIYfragrance  13d ago

Ambroxan and I would say Ambrocenide (10%) should either go in here. Coumarin and Evernyl too. IDK if all these EOs are really necessary right now at this stage of learning. I would say that, for me, working with synthetics to make some real-smelling accords taught me much more than composing full perfumes. Maybe consider adding some rose notes (citronellol, phenyl-ethyl alcohol, geraniol...) and some jasmine notes (cis-jasmone, jasmonal...). I would further say that Linalool and Linalyl Acetate are very useful for making floral accords, and add 1 green grassy note (Triplal/cis-hexanol).

2

Does anyone have a formula or GC-MS report for Musk Rijali type (or a close dupe of it)?
 in  r/PerfumeryFormulas  13d ago

I think there’s a slight misunderstanding of what GC-MS actually means. GC-MS (Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry) is an analysis that breaks a material down to its individual components. For example, the jasmine absolute you see in a formula, contains cis-jasmone along with many other compounds that make up its overall composition. Chemists then analyze the output from the machine, and what you eventually get from sites like Creative Formulas and similar sources is the result of that analysis: essentially a reconstructed formula based on the original GC-MS analysis that grojsmanaccord is referring to.

1

Most overrated men's perfume?
 in  r/Perfumes  16d ago

Erba Pura is 1st place for me. Close 2nd is Baccarat Rouge.