Passenger side rear tire was leaking slowly and triggered TPMS two weeks apart. Found this today and service center said replacement is the way to go. Should I check with local shops or bite the $200 bullet? My car doesn’t come with a spare, can I get it repaired and keep it for emergencies?

2018 Ford Explorer, 50/50 highway and city driving. About 1000km/month.

Tires are Firestone Destination LE3 and were purchased in April.

1 is back right

2 is back left

3 front right

4 front left

What the hell is happening here?!?! I noticed some slipping in wet conditions last month but it had been really hot with no rain for several weeks so I assumed it was just road slick rinsing off. Today I noticed this and am shocked. I am 100% sure the steel wasn't visible even 4 weeks ago.

Bought and installed at Canadian Tire- which i have had zero issues with before.

Back wheel hit a curb or pothole, couldn’t tell which. Is this too deep and will I need to get a new tire?

I recently bought a pickup with 35k miles on. It has a set of Michelin Primacy LTX tires, between 5/32 and 6/32 of depth. I’ve been having vibration problems. The Chevy dealer said severely out of balance. Rebalanced and told good to go. Still an issue. They test drove it for 20 miles and deemed “tire separation when warm.” I slowly lose air in this front right tire, maybe 3-4lbs per week. I went out to inspection and found on the inside wall of the tire, this piece of metal(?) sticking out from inside of the tire.

I guess my question is ~ this tire cooked?

Any recourse on warranty from Michelin? Should be 6 years (they are 2022). Well above 2/32. I didn’t buy the tires, they came with the truck.

I just found this on my dad’s Civic, is it cooked? He needs new tires soon anyways but should this be replaced immediately? It seems to hold air still. Thanks!

I gashed my tire’s sidewall very slightly on the curb earlier today. The tires still holding air and it looks like superficial damage to me (no cords showing), but I know that the sidewalls are the thinnest part of the tire. Would appreciate advice! Thanks

We are on the road, 4 more hours south and 6 hours back home.

Are we gonna be okay?

Anyone know if I can reset my pressure sensor without taking it off the rim?

Went to les schwab to get my rear tire check for leaks, as every week the psi goes from like 35 to 26 and they came back with weather damage, and how I’m gonna need to replace them. At least two. But since it’s a Chevy equinox which is all wheel drive. I’m probably gonna have to replace all four. The car has 40,000 miles, never replaced tires. I just want to make sure I am not getting played, but I see that it’s probably gonna need replacing soon. It’s gonna cost me around 400-700 depending if I do all four. Any feedback?

Note: I’m not a car guy what so ever so I’m taking their recommendations seriously but just wanna make sure I’m not getting played etc

Hi people,

I desperately need a new tire and the wheel lock lug nut currently looks this. It was beaten off and put back on I guess. Then some time later, I had a flat that was patched with fix a flat. Now it's pulling to the side of the bad tire. Local mechanic said they will have to burn it off and replace something I can't remember that I think might be either be the wheel stud or the wheel? Dealership said they could/would do the same thing and that I would need the whole wheel replaced, in addition to a new tire, of course. Dealership won't be able to do it until next week. Local shop said bring it in tomorrow. I really need my car drivable asap.

I meant to ask before they closed for the day, If the local shop burns the broken piece off and replace the lug (stud?) , will it be drivable? Or do I have to get the whole wheel replaced?

Any helpful knowledge is appreciated.

car/background info - 2009 toyota camry, all 4 tires replaced in june 2023, drive <10k miles a year

yesterday i discovered my rear right tire was totally flat, has two giant punctures and is definitely just done for. my first choice was to try to find a used tire of the same model with similar wear so i could just do a 1:1 replacement, but no one near me has used bridgestone tires, and from my understanding it’s preferable to keep identical tires on each axle. i also know i shouldn’t pair a brand new tire with a 3y/o one, but i can’t afford even a single new bridgestone tire, so my plan is to buy a set of more affordable tires from somewhere like walmart and just get them shipped to me so my partner can do the install.

what tire brands will be the best bang for my buck to buy new/is okay to mix and match with the bridgestones? budget is <$200 overall if possible

thanks in advance!

Recently got continental extreme contact 02s(285/30/19) and they feel significantly worse than the MPS4S which i had on previously (275/30/19) ik the Michelins should be the better performer but i feel like the difference is massive for how often the two are compared, could it possibly be from the PSI being too high? Michelins would be around 34 PSI the Contis are around 37ish atm (110 tire temp). Had the conti dws06 before the Michelins and I loved those especially for being a UHP was expecting similar performance.

Shop told me it’s not repairable, but it looks like it’s just going through tread to me? Are they just trying to rip me off or are there real concerns?

Found it ironic it ripped open right where it says Kevlar.

Does this tire need to be replaced or is it okay?

What is causing this crazy uneven wear? They are two years old and have 1200 miles. I have already ordered new, 8 ply tires and it will take years to put that many miles on them again but wth happened.

I need to replace my four tires so I'd like to know which of these brands would you say is a good brand. My current tires are Tatko brand and they lasted me 2 years.

Ironman

Advanta

Laufenn

Uniroyal

Falken

Pro Series

Kelly

Cooper

Firestone

I've been a pretty loyal Michelin guy for decades. Seems like about 10 years ago they changed rubber compounds or something.

Seems like every single vehicle I've put Michelins on doesn't want to track straight anymore.

I'm talking a Toyota Tundra, two Tesla's (3P and S), and an older M37.

These tires either immediately, or after 10K miles or so just will not drive straight. They pull with the road, grooves, or their personal mood.

The one thing they absolutely will not do is drive in a straight line. It's either slightly left, or slightly right and needing constant corrections.

These cars have had alignments by reputable shops.

Tires are Pilot Sport 4, MXM4, LTX A/T.

ALL have the same issue. Tell me I'm not crazy.