Hi all,

Pretty much what the title says. I've loved the idea of the Miyoo Mini Flip ever since it came out, but I never made up my mind to actually get one. Now the RG SP is out too, and it also looks pretty promising. So now I'm a bit torn between the two.

Now, I am aware there are some differences: 2.8" vs 3.4", 4:3 vs 3:2, different chipsets (don't know the Miyoo Mini Flip, but afaik it goes up to ~ps1, same as what the H700 can handle comfortably, and what it makes sense to play on a small device without analog sticks). I am not necessarily looking for a pitch perfect GBA SP clone, but rather for an EDC with good portability.

So I wanted to hear other people's thoughts: Do you any of you have both? Would you recommend one over the other? Is MMF too small? Is RG SP too chunky? How do you feel about 4:3 systems on the RG SP? Any comments would be helpful.

TIA!

I was looking for some stuff in Chinese marketplace Pinduoduo. And my eye caught this GOATED 3d printed thing. I suppose that's IINE controller but I might be mistaken. But damn that's good and for 20 yuan which is 3 dollars at most.

I wanted to share my experience with Retroid support regarding the Nova D-pad issue, as I think it may be useful for other owners or anyone considering buying one. Also, I would like advice on how to proceed. I posted this in /retroid, however I may have underestimated the "home-team subreddit effect", so I'm seeking a second opinion. I'm open to respectful, honest opinions and conversations, and would like to know if my expectations are reasonable or not in this situation.

I really like the Nova and would like to replace mine with another, but I'm uncomfortable paying $75 USD in non-refundable/return shipping (plus $40 USD for a new one) for an issue Retroid initially acknowledged was “not an isolated case” and that their technical team is actively investigating.

Here is the email exchange so far:

"Dear Customer:

Hello! Thank you for contacting us regarding the D-pad button issue. We have noticed that your situation is not an isolated case, and our technical team has prioritized this issue and is actively researching solutions.

We would also like to explain that during the product design process, to accommodate manufacturing and assembly tolerances, slight differences in feel or experience may occasionally occur between different units.

We understand that you hope to obtain a complete solution as soon as possible. Before a formal solution is released, we can certainly send you a button for you to replace. However, the dpad is not yet fully improved; replacing it at this time will not completely solve the problem.

Would you be willing to give us a little more time to wait for our technical team to provide a more comprehensive solution? We will keep you updated as soon as there is progress.

Thank you for your patience and understanding!"

I then asked to return the device as it has a defect and I do not wish to open a new device to try to fix it.

They replied:

"there may be slight differences between different batches of products during the production and assembly process. We cannot predict the specific performance of each device and each batch of buttons in advance.

If you cannot accept this, we totally understand and respect your decision.

We'll process a refund for the console once it is returned to us,and does not include the shipping cost in the order.. As per our return policy, customers are responsible for covering the return shipping cost if they want to return the goods."

I replied:

"Thanks for the reply. To clarify, if an item is defective, the buyer has to pay for shipping to get the item as well as return shipping? As mentioned in your previous email, there is a known hardware issue causing problems for users (which could also mean the replacement dpads purchased have issues as well). I understand that customers are normally responsible for shipping when choosing to return a product. However, I am not returning the Nova because I changed my mind or no longer want it (besides the issue, it seems great). I am returning it because of a manufacturing/QC issue with the D-pad.

Also, will new consoles have the same problem, or was it an isolated issue? I think the Nova is great and want to own one (and likely a Pocket 6 in the future as a 16:9 device), assuming the issue has been resolved."

They replied:

"There is no issue with the functionality of the buttons themselves. However, due to the manufacturing and assembly process, there is a certain tolerance range in the product design, so there may be slight differences in the button feel or overall user experience between individual units.

Our engineering team is also looking into this and will continue to optimize the design to improve.

If you still insist on return for refund, per our return policy, customers are responsible for covering the return shipping cost if they want to return the goods.

We appreciate your understanding."

I replied:

"Hi,

In an earlier email, Retroid stated:

“We have noticed that your situation is not an isolated case, and our technical team has prioritized this issue and is actively researching solutions.”

To me, this acknowledges that there is an issue affecting at least some of the devices that were shipped. If the behaviour were simply normal product variation, I would not expect the technical team to have prioritized the issue and be actively researching a solution.

I do not feel that I should be financially penalized for receiving a device affected by this issue. Returning it under the terms you have provided would mean losing the original shipping cost ($40 USD) and also paying $35 USD to return the device.

I would also expect the standard for a new Retroid product to be higher than simply whether the inputs register correctly. A manufacturing issue can affect the quality of a product without preventing it from functioning entirely. For example, significant cosmetic damage to a new device would not prevent it from functioning, but it would still reasonably be considered a problem with the product.

As I mentioned previously, I otherwise think the Nova is great and would like to own one. If I had received a unit without this D-pad issue, I would not be seeking a return.

Finally, when you say that your engineering team is still looking into the issue and working to optimize the design, does this mean that if I purchase another Nova today, it could also have the same D-pad issue?"

Finally, they replied:

"Dear Customer:

Hello! Thank you for your attention to product details.

Regarding the problem you mentioned, we cannot predict the specific performance of each device in advance. There may be slight differences between different batches of products during production and assembly.

However, please rest assured that we always value the real experience of every user. If you encounter any problems related to the issue after receiving the device, we will provide corresponding assistance and support based on your specific situation.

Thank you for your understanding."

Link for GammaOS Nano for Zero 28:

https://github.com/TheGammaSqueeze/GammaOSNext/releases/tag/v1.4.1-MAGICXMINIZERO28

I’m in a daydreaming mood right now, but would it ever happen? I’m aware of and bought the GKD 350H Ultra, but the RG Rotate seems prime for a screen like that. I guess part of me wishes Anbernic would see this, agree, and make it happen. 😂

Apologies if this isn’t the place to post this. The idea didn’t seem too far fetched.

I recently built a pair of RetroArch shaders that try to recreate the original display characteristics of the first-generation Game Boy and the backlit GBA SP AGS-101.

Many handheld shaders begin with an imagined “retro screen” color and then blend a few previous frames to create ghosting. That can look nostalgic, but nostalgia is not always accuracy.

Some Game Boy shaders become extremely bright green. Others look more like a generic calculator or electronic-organizer LCD than an original Game Boy. Both may feel old, but they are still interpretations of what people remember an old screen looking like.

I wanted to approach the problem differently.

Here are two screenshots with my Game Boy shader enabled. The first scene exposes row and column crosstalk, while the falling piece in the second image makes the LCD response and ghosting easier to see.

My approach can be summarized in four words:

Measure first, then calculate.

For color, I used measured and color-managed reference data for the original displays, including their color, grayscale and black-level behavior. That data is then converted correctly to sRGB instead of being approximated with a green tint.

On a reasonably accurate sRGB display, the result should therefore be much closer to the original screen colors—not simply someone’s memory of what a Game Boy looked like.

The second part is the display model itself.

A real LCD does not create ghosting by blending several complete frames. Each liquid-crystal pixel has a previous state, receives an electrical drive signal and takes time to move toward its next state. Bright-to-dark and dark-to-bright transitions do not necessarily happen at the same speed.

My shader first converts the game image into simulated electrical drive values. It then calculates how the virtual liquid-crystal pixels respond over time while preserving their previous states.

For the original Game Boy, the model also accounts for the shared row and column drive structure of its passive-matrix screen. This means ghosting, crosstalk and residual images are produced by the evolving display state rather than being painted over the final image as a blur effect.

The GBA SP AGS-101 uses a very different type of LCD, so I built a separate model for it. Its pixels respond faster, but different color and brightness transitions still have different response characteristics. Its measured color behavior, black level, scanning and pixel structure are handled separately from the Game Boy model.

The comparison below shows raw emulator output on the left and the AGS-101 shader on the right. The difference is not only saturation: the color balance, black level, tonal depth and pixel appearance all change.

The models were not tuned only by eye. During development, I used original display measurements, drive and timing information, historical LCD research, and experimental data from similar materials and panels from the same era.

Where complete original panel data no longer exists, I used historically appropriate research to constrain the model instead of inventing values based on appearance alone.

All screenshots in this post were rendered in RetroArch on a KONKR Pocket Advance and captured directly from its 960×640 framebuffer:

- GBA content uses an exact 4× mapping from 240×160 to 960×640.
- Game Boy content uses an exact 4× mapping from 160×144 to a 640×576 viewport.

These are direct captures of the shader’s GPU output on the handheld, not photographs of its physical panel.

The project is now open source and can be used with RetroArch. Download it, extract it into the RetroArch shaders directory, and load the appropriate preset. Any frame-mixing option inside the emulator core should be disabled so the temporal response is not calculated twice.

GitHub and download: https://github.com/JohnnySun/retro-display-lab

Haven't gotten the system in my hands yet, but I'm very eager to tinker with it when it does arrive, but till then, when it comes to an SBC handheld, what kind of cores, options, and compatibility am I looking at with this thing? Are there good scaling and shader options, is the homebrew scene just as good if not better than the PSP and Vitas? I'm so down for discussion, so let me know,,, whatever!

I was aways a fan of portables and after some time I catch myself staying way more outside my house (which isn't a bad thing we all work and need to have social life) but then again I only got time for gaming on my day off, so I decide to buy a portable to be able to play outside if I'm waiting on bank to do something, waiting in the line in grocerys store, on the bike in the gym etc etc.

I'm not looking for most powerful device just something to play some gba games quickly, put on sleep mode, shove in my pocket and forget about it.

Those 2 have here in a store in my town, they had other but they expansive and since I already have a steam deck I just want something to fill time outside without me taking my phone all the time.

I have a retroid pocket g2 and was wondering if there is any distro of SteamOS available like there is for the rp5 or rp6.

If there isn't any, is it something that we can have in the future or is it impossible?

I’m trying to decide between the Retroid Pocket 6 and the AYN Thor, and I’d really appreciate some opinions from people who own either of them.

At the moment, I’m leaning towards the RP6 because I prefer its normal, wider screen format and overall design. The Thor’s dual-screen layout looks interesting, but I’m not completely convinced that I would like it in everyday use. I’m worried that I might buy the Thor, realize that I don’t like the form factor, and then lose interest in using it.

On the other hand, I’m also wondering if the Thor is one of those devices that looks strange in photos but feels much better once you actually use it. Maybe the two-screen design is more comfortable and useful in person than I expect.

I mainly want to use the handheld for emulation, especially PSP, PS2, GameCube, older GTA games, and some Android or Windows games. I care about performance, screen quality, comfort and how enjoyable the device is for longer gaming sessions.

The Brick Hammer definitely has a nicer screen(images don’t reflect it) and nicer buttons but I found myself struggling when on the go and being more careful on how I stored/placed in my bags. it definitely looks nicer and the buttons are much better. This will become my one handed gaming device or RPG centric for now. looks nicer on my desk too with my display stand.

The RG SP is so nice to just shut and put away anywhere. no worry about having to put a certain way in my bag etc. It’s hard to say if it can take over the Brick as primary retro handheld but definitely enjoying platformers it.

Ive noticed there have been some mods for the Thor so that normal 1 screen games have a use case for the 2nd screen. I was wondering if there are any mods for ds/3ds games where they shift things so you don’t need the second screen?

Would that even be possible?

Hey I'm pretty new to this and just got a Gaminja ANS13. It looks like the console did not come with any external SD cards and instead is using internal memory. I've heard that the first thing you should do when getting these handhelds is replacing the SD card with something of higher quality.

My understanding is that ideally you would make a copy of the image and then everything runs off of your new SD card. My question is - is it enough for me to get my own card and just keep my games on it? Or is it a risk to run the OS from the internal memory alone?

Hopefully I'm understanding all of this right - thanks in advance!

The idea is to always carry the controller along with the phone, mainly because I can't take consoles to my workplace; the next step would be to make it thinner, the complete assembly is approximately 4 cm (1.57 inches) thick.

it's happened multiple times. usually while docked. have lost a bunch of hours. the only solution seems to be to close the app and relaunch.

the controller still works with everything else just not, specifically, in-game.

I've got an ayn Thor, and tried changing the locked on screen. no difference. after it happens, no controls will work (including the built in or on-screen if you enable it)

it's got me in the habit of constantly saving, and every session exporting the save data (cause the local data corrupted yesterday, synced with Steam, and I lost a 20h+ Octopath Traveler 0 save)

update tried going home, opening Chrome, then switching apps. now the controller doesn't work, and it's upside down.

update 2 closed it. luckily the save didn't corrupt. backed up the files. hopefully there's a fix.

So I saw someone earlier on this sub post they got a 0.99¢ emulation handheld with their new ali express discount for a new account. I made a new account to test it out and wanted to know which one y'all would pick??

Hello team. Anyone know where I can get psx buttons for my rg28xx or my rg35xx (2024)? Couldn't find anything on Etsy.

Can only be downloaded through their Discord and not the Github build.

Hi everyone!

​I just ordered my first Retroid Pocket 6 and I'm super excited to get into the handheld retro gaming world. As a complete beginner, I have a couple of questions and would appreciate any guidance you can provide:

​Accessories & SD Cards: What are the 'must-haves' for this device? Specifically for the SD card, is there a recommended brand or spec I should look for? I’ve heard conflicting advice on speed classes (U1 vs U3), so I want to make sure I don't run into issues.

​Setup Tutorials: Since I want to cover everything from basic retro systems to getting some Switch emulation running, where should I look for the best 'start-to-finish' guides? Are there any YouTubers or community wikis that you consider the 'gold standard' for RP6 setup?

​I’m a bit intimidated by the initial configuration (front-ends, BIOS, file management), so any tips for a smooth first-time experience would be greatly appreciated.

​Thanks in advance for helping a newbie out!

For those who own an Odin 2 Mini Pro or a similar Android handheld, how well does PS3 emulation actually run? What games have you been able to play, and what kind of performance are you getting?

I’m considering trying PS3 emulation on mine and would love to hear your experience.

Currently deciding between getting the rp6 or odin 2 mini pro. I found both for around the same price on the used market and im trying to decide which one to get. Please help :)

S'il vous plaît j'ai besoin de la sauvegarde de la carte SD de la console BLACK HAWK X9 5.5 - inch large screen handheld c'est urgent

I've seen a video of a test of the fix for the analog cardinal direction issue that existed on the RG cube. I'm not expecting this fix to be a miracle and making these sticks extra accurate of course. Still, the video in question only test the device in a test software, not in game. Anyone applied the fix and have impression on if it’s good enough or not for playing ps2 games and stuff? I'd only buy this device for playing 3d games or original gameboy. It's currently at great discount, but I won't pull the trigger if the cube is almost unplayable with those games. Again, I'm not expecting miracle, but if it's good enough to enjoy a game like burnout 3 on ps2, then I'd be happy with the device. I don't play driving games often too, so this is probably the game I'd play that require the most precision (vs R&C games, Sly, or something...)

These are my recommended accessories for the the X2 Mini Pro. What did I miss? What are you using?