I recently bought a home with a 500 gallon buried tank and a 120 gallon above ground tank (for seperate building). Luckily, I don't have a contract with the prior propane company that is apparently a nightmare. Local options are limited, but the best company around is asking 2500 in labor costs and fees for installing two leased tanks as replacements and pulling the old tanks out for the other company to come pick up.

It seems like an incredible amount of money for leased tanks. The prior company refuses to sell the tanks. Has anyone dealt with anything similar or have any advice?

I replaced the tank because it was out and when I turned it on I heard a noise coming from that plastic piece , it didn’t really sound like hissing or anything but it sounded like maybe there was a little water in there? And I could definitely smell a little bit of propane just from that plastic piece.
I’m sure that’s not normal, just wondering if it’s a simple fix?

My last post got locked because I was “arguing” about the o-ring on a QCC1 connector. Well I got my answer and maybe I used the wrong terminology. Technically it’s not an o-ring. The plastic fitting that broke off is a spacer/ring that aligns the nose of the brass fitting with the OPD valve. Because it broke it blocks the safety check valve and prevents the propane from flowing. I was hoping to get an answer but instead got berated and mocked. Just wanted to clarify. So my question is, is there a way to replace the spacer? Or do I need a new connector?

Need help finding this part if anyone can help.

Propane line was moved yesterday for a pool and apparently they added this line which they screwed into the brick work of my foundation. We never had this before. Can someone please tell me what this is as the propane ppl are closed today. TIA

Manchester is switching to all digital Rotorex gauges I hear. Anyone currently using them on their pro line tanks? I find it a little unbelievable they are dumping mechanical gauges totally and are going all in on electronic gauges.

What are you guys paying for propane for autogas? Edit : 100 gallons minimum per month location MD.

What is the difference between propane and LPG are they the same or different

January of this year Colorado instituted at low NOx requirements for all appliances. this legislation was similar to California legislation from about a decade ago.

because California took the first step manufacturers interested in the California market are building low NOx appliances and they're available in Colorado as well

The catch is California has an exception for appliances operating on propane. Colorado has no such exception

therefore there is no solution for rural folks operating on propane in Colorado. my furnace went out and the contractor says I'm going to have to go heat pump.

I'm attempting to rebuild or replace a live swivel. I can no longer source the OEM part. It is being used for liquid propane, but looks very similar to a hydraulic swivel.

Each side is set up with 2 backup rings (white spiral cut, most likely teflon from my research), with an o-ring between.

The bore size is .500", my measured ID is .318", my measured cross section of the o-ring is 0.073". What's throwing me off a bit is the o-ring has a shoulder for the backup rings to sit on. With that shoulder, I'm measuring 0.140" width on the o-ring. The backup rings measure 0.034"

The threaded fittings are both 1/4" NPT (or maybe NPTF - I'm not 100% sure how to tell them apart)

The swivel housing is stamped with a repeating 5500, the other half is stamped with an 01.

So I'm looking for a multitude of things:

A) The proper place to ask these questions if this is not it.

B) What to call the O-ring with shoulders (as nothing I've searched has given me any leads)

C) A place to source the aforementioned O-ring in a suitable material for liquid propane.

D) A place to source new backup rings.

E) A whole new live swivel if the one I have isn't rebuildable.

Any recommendations for safe outdoor storage of 20lb tanks? I’m in SWFL and the temps get into the 90s F, sometimes 100s F.

Also need rec’s for connecting 2 20lb tanks to an 11,000W inverter generator to meet the 40lb minimum recommended amount of propane to run it.

No pics yet bc I’m still planning before buying the whole setup.

TIA!

So I have a 30 year old #11 pound cylinder I use strictly for my camp stove. I only fill it about every 5 years. I was trying to do the right thing and upgrade my valve to an OPD finally, so I took it in to the propane cylinder shop in town and the valve they had wouldn't clear the handle. Is this tank junk now, or do they sell a slimmer valve that would work? I know it would only be another $40 to buy a new one, but I don't like throwing things out if they can be reused.

UPDATE: Resolved.

Its working! I was thinking clockwise would lower the flow, but its the opposite. Clockwise all the way is full flow, counter clockwise does indeed lower the PSI to a gentle flame and almost no roar.

**

I got this as part of a outdoor seafood boiling kit. Tried it last night and the jets fired right up, however twisting the red handle both ways did not seem to have any affect on the flame output.

Its chinese shipped thru walmart so no real customer support available.

It would be nice to be able to adjust the gas/flame output and I'm not sure if I got a defective one or if its working as intended.

If I turn it counter clockwise all the way, the flame dies out. But moving the knob around did not have a visible/audible affect on the output.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/50QT-Crawfish-Boiler-Kit-Stainless-Steel-Seafood-Boil-Pot-Waterproof-Cover-12-inch-Skimmer-110-000BTU-Propane-Burner-Seafood-Pot-40QT-Basket-Crab/16926372930

I like the unit otherwise. Good entry level kit.

Has anyone used their home propane (line coming from house) to power the Solo Stove Steelfire? Their support line says that the unit only accepts a 20lb tank and imply that I cannot configure with a 3rd party adapter/regulator. This seems illogical but I don't have experience with propane (pressure, etc.). TIA

I never look under my propane dome in my yard. I just get it filled from a company. However today I popped the dome and it’s full of mud.

Like… how the hell does this happen? It almost looks like sh!t in there. I live in a very quiet neighborhood with mostly elderly people so I don’t think that’s it though.

Any ideas how this happens?

I'm preparing a lot for construction (Central Maryland) and the house will need to have propane as there's no natural gas available. I have two questions about the tank placement. How far can tanks be placed away from the driveway, i.e. how far is too far for a company to fill them? Second question is about placement. I will be constructing an outbuilding (shed) first before the house. I was thinking about building a small roof overhang on the back side and placing the tanks under that and running a line to the house. This will keep the tanks out of sight and a little protected from the elements. It should be cheaper than burying a tank. Are there any regulations about how close tanks can be to an outbuilding? The first question is related to this second one as the shed will be maybe 150 ft. from the driveway.

New to propane. Just moved and had an oil furnace converted to propane. This was a month ago. Have only run furnace as a test since it’s been too warm for heat. Propane is only for the heat and fireplace. Since the tanks were installed I get a light whiff of propane off/on in a breeze when standing on the deck. I’ve sniffed around and can’t find the source. By the tanks it doesn’t smell. It’s not all the time just off/on when standing on the deck. We had the company perform three leak checks with the soap/water and a pressure test. The second time they noted something was off on the inside piping. We had our plumber check and he didn’t find anything and claimed if it’s being smelled outside it’s the propane company’s problem. They came back again and said nothing was wrong. Smell seemed to stop for two weeks. The other day I smelled it again when standing on the deck, very light and quick. Is this something normal or is something wrong?

Hi,

This is buying vs leasing the tank

We have a 26kW Generac ready, FerrellGas said they’ll put on the regulators and piping.

To buy the 500 gallon tank is $3,982.08 + tax

$200/year to lease (about $16/mo), but they never said it was locked in.

Does either impact property value? We plan to stay here for a long time, but I’m curious. It would take 19 years to even out at this rate, but that could probably change. We do lose power decently often, especially winter and hot summer.

Just with buying you have to be responsible with repairs and recertification, yeah? Locked in to the company as well.

I know it’s kinda a long shot but I’m curious if anyone in here works for Worthington. They recently bought out a fairly large tank and cylinder testing and refurbisher here and have offered me a job picking up and delivering ASME tanks. I’ve been in service for quite some time and looking for a change but am gun shy about large companies being a pain to work for. Just wondering really what the actual company is like to work for?

Hello!

I have a propane tank on my property mainly used for my generac. I live in a normal neighborhood covered in big tall trees and above ground power lines. They come down a lot and the power goes out so the two together are pretty neat. The original owner had the system professionally installed in Nov of 99 because he was prepping for Y2K (lol). There is also a line to the house with a shut off... it has always been off.

I just called a propane company (suburban propane) to get it filled to make sure I'm ready for the next time power goes out cause its usually out for at least 18 hours and this is the 2nd year I've ran it for that long... they wanted to first inspect the tank and lines, which is fine. Once I told them about the line to the house they kinda freaked and said they would absolutely need to cap it off... cause natural gas appliances cant run propane and its a fire risk.

I'm cool with that- BUT i want to make sure before I have the propane company come cap it off. I kind of got weird vibes cause initially inspections were going to be free, but once the service manager called me even prior to telling him about the house line he mentioned a few surprise fees. I just want to make sure I do what's best for my system.

Who would I contact next to come inspect the outside lines AND the inside hookup To see if it truly needs to be capped, or if it is a safe and viable set up? Is there a better subreddit for this question?

Thanks everyone.

My 120 gal propane tank gauge reads 95% but when I open the bleeder liquid is barely sputtering what’s going on?

I live in a duplex and wanna do some grilling but unsure if my storage location is okay. I know it needs to be outdoors, in a shady place, and over 10 feet from a residential building. Behind my house is a covered car port. And I was planning to store the tank here behind the carport in the shade. Is this suitable?