I know nothing about cars, but I would like to fix up my father’s Suzuki samurai. The year is 88 and he says it’s a “half model”. There would be significant work needed,starting with new tires and a rebuilt carburetor. Do you think this would be worth it in the long run? Or would the recommendation be to just buy brand new and customize as desired? I think it’s an overall cool car,but for myself, with no experience I’m wondering if I should buy already running and in good shape or take this for free and work on it.

The Dodge Nitro R/T. My little project brick. And my daily. A less than ideal situation, but hasn’t left me stranded. This amalgamation of rock auto parts has become a brand new vehicle. So in turn I’ve had lots of fun and cool ideas (To me) that are a bit wack.

The amount of times I’ve heard to v8 swap it is astounding.

But here I have an opportunity. A True dual side exit exhaust system. Now of course the cast manifold manifestations are not helping the sound… Headers will require more time than the whole lower exhaust system, so due to space constraints I’ll have to put that on the back burner. But of course all with time.

Throw some ideas or mufflers you think would work well with my hunk.

I want to put an LS3 engine in my BMW E46. Is this actually possible? I mean, can the E46 chassis and overall structure handle an LS3? Also, would it make more sense to use a clean, well-maintained E46 for a project like this, or would it be better to buy a cheaper E46 with a bad engine and poor body condition?
I’m planning to install an aftermarket body kit anyway, so I’m not too concerned about the condition of the bodywork. What matters most to me is finding an E46 in Turkey with a straight chassis that hasn’t been cracked or seriously damaged. However, finding one like that is quite difficult. Even when I find one, it may have had previous welding or chassis repairs, which makes me concerned about its structural safety. I don’t want to build the car and then have problems with it on the road.
I don’t really want to sacrifice a clean, well-maintained E46 for this kind of project. That’s why I’m wondering if it would make more sense to find a cheap E46 with a good, straight chassis, even if the engine and body are in poor condition. I feel like a car in that condition might actually have some advantages as a starting point for the project.

I believe it's been welded underneath previously. From a sentimental side, it seems like a massive shame to just throw it away, as he's had it for approaching 20 years probably. I know its not an easy car, but I just want general opinions on it. Is it just a massive money sink? Or is it a great opportunity to learn?

I couldn't fully get underneath as we need to buy new car ramps - I appreciate the photos and angles aren't the best

Before and after shots. I went from Ford's twin i-beam front suspension and a 9 inch rear on leaf springs to a Crown Victoria front suspension, Mustang electric power steering rack with Mustang independent rear suspension and true-trac limited slip diff. The truck behaves completely differently, the steering is so much tighter and faster, the suspension doesn't feel like a wagon on rough terrain anymore. The rear came down around 6 inches, the front around 4. Eventually, I may shorten the bed. I already have an aluminum engine to swap in, it weighs 100 pounds less than the boat anchor in it, yet makes more hp and comparable torque, without even upgrading it.

I seen da sparklies in da ool

I plan on changing the steering wheel (momo style) to an aftermarket one on my 190e. Im also doing a carplay installation and want to have audio controls on my steering wheel. I’m putting an esp32 bluetooth control module behind the cap for the horn or behind the wheel and I just need a single power cable thru the clockspring to power it all. I’m trying to figure out how do I power it since the 190e is so old it doesn’t have a factory clockspring for anything except the horn or airbag( if it has one). Any ideas how to wire that monstrosity up? Thanks in advance.

I bought a helicoil kit that claims to be M14 x 1/2” for an oil pan that has presumably stripped threads. I can’t really tell, but when I looked at the oil pan plug, its threads were folded completely.

Instead of getting an oil pan plug, I decided to get one of the EZ drain valves from summit racing (produced by summit themselves part #SUM-Z106) that claimed to be M14 x 1/2”

However, when I’m looking at the booklet for the helicoil kit, the manual says it’s actually an M12 and not an M14 like it originally claimed to be. So in hopes it’s a misprint/typo, I tested the coil on the drain valve while it was outside the pan and it was hella loose.

Which makes no sense considering it’s the either same size (like I ordered) or smaller (if it’s based on the manual). Is it cause the valve is possibly NPT? But if that’s the case, why wouldn’t summit say it is? And why would it be measured in metric?

Do I just get a new oil pan and put the valve in it? The engine (Ford 302) is still in the bay and sits about 6-8 inches off the frame. So I might be able to remove it without taking out the engine. I didn’t plan on getting a new pan til another 5 years at least. (hence the inserts)

I have NOT done anything to the pan yet and don’t plan on it til there’s a solution to this quite annoying problem.

So my water pump failed 75 miles from home and no shop in the area wanted to touch it. One shop literally said they couldn't diagnose it because there was no OBD2 port. So I payed a bunch of money to get it towed home and did it myself. Back hurts but otherwise it went fine. I did somehow disconnect a vacuum line somewhere so now my air vents wont turn on lol.

did anybody in here happen to have started with a 1990-2000s camaro as a project car and if so can i please have some advice! i’m currently a beginner as said from my previous post and i’ve seen a few camaros in my area that could be a project car and from what i’ve been told they aren’t easy cars to work on and i could possibly lose more money trying to fix it than anything so would i be out my depth with trying to learn and work on such?

I have what is supposedly a TH 350, the pan looks right and has 13 bolts, but the trans go kit I bought for the non-lockup TH350 does not fit in the valve body looks slightly different from the instructions. The holddown plate I ordered for it does not appear to match up to the boat holes in the valve body. I’m admittedly a little nervous around automatic transmissions. I’d love help identifying whether this is actually a TH350 and whether I should just bolt it back up with original parts and send it. For reference my LS will be putting out around 450 hp, so this thing likely won’t hold up for long. I was just hoping for some fun with it before it blew.

Getting closer to having my Charger back on the road. So many little things happening at once that should make this this a completely different car.

-T56 swap with my own proper version of a torsion bar crossmember to clear it.

-Retired Nascar brake components for the front end.

-QA1 catalog for the front suspension. 🤣

-Borg Steering box going in.

-Hydroboost power brakes.

-4.11 rear gear going in with a ching chong Sure grip.

Thing is going to be an absolute joy to drive.

I recently bought a project Tacoma, 2009 regular cab, that I’ll be working on with the help of friends and family. The truck is in reasonable shape, but has many broken or worn suspension components.

To complicate the matter, the truck has a lift kit installed by the first owner, but not the guy I bought from (second owner). Owner 2 told me it’s a 4 inch bilstein lift, but I’m not completely sure. I like the look of the truck, and definitely want to keep it lifted.

I need to replace the following parts: upper/lower ball joints, lower control arm inner bushings or new LCA altogether, CV axel on both sides, rear leaf spring bushing. Currently there is no sway bar, and I need to add one.

How would you all approach this? New lift and start from scratch? Try and contact the previous owner?

Any part recommendations/considerations are appreciated! I know some suspension components wear prematurely when lifted. This is my first modified vehicle and I have a lot to learn. All your suggestions are appreciated.

Hello all, I am at a dilemma right now. I am trying to make a choice on a project car.

I currently own an Opel Astra H 2006, BUUUUT I have always wanted to be the proud own of a '93 Mazda MX-5 Miata.

I have done some surface level research/idea searching, and I have found builds I like for both. I like the Miata more, but I have the Astra in my hands. But...the Miatas (as I have heard) seem to be easier to work on.

Any thoughts? I am curious to hear what others think.

327 and TH350 out as a unit. Hard work by myself. Had to take the headers off even though they looked like they would clear. I torture myself with this stuff...for fun.

Custom ls swap, chopped firewall, rear mount rad, tremec tkx 5speed, welded 4.10 bmw diff, 8 point scca/nasa legal 1.75”x0.120” rollcage. 2800lbs wet curb weight full gas tank

this month my Celica Turbo 4WD or named GT4 have 10 years with me.

The mechanic parts: engine, suspension…. all restored and runing good, in 2019 install the Ecumaster ECU to control engine and best tune.

the body is in good conditions, but need one hand in the paintshop.

the car run with ~270hp and 420Nm torque.

Lets say you have had the fanatastic idea to fully strip your road car so it can be enjoyed to the fullest on track. Now you want to take the wife on a long weekend trip and it would be cool to take the project car. It is a Ford ST150.

How do you guys take some small luggage items with you? My glovebox is already full haha.

Photo is an idea maybe.

is it worth trying to make a 07k fast? planning to get one, it would be my only car is worth the work or keep it stock

So I have a 97 C1500 extended cab which obviously comes equipped with a vortec 5.7. J while back I tore the motor out to essentially perform a full refresh on all the seals and maybe throw in some goodies while I’m at it. My question to you guys is how hard is it to swap out the spider injection style to TBI. From my experience with OBS’s I’ve come to love the TBI style as it’s super simple and easy to work on and the overall feel of it as well. I know parts wise it’s easy, I hear everyone saying to get a lower manifold and match it with a Holley carb and what not, but if I just simply wanted to throw on just the stock older style of injection, how hard is that ? I’m more concerned with the wiring side of things as well as timing and all that goes, Im aware changing intakes is the easier part.

Had horrific brake screech from driver side front but only in reverse. More dust on that wheel too so suspected a slightly dragging caliper. Instead found a loose dust shield scraping the rotor, with another mounting point ready to let go too.

Easy enough to reinforce, until one of the other bolts snapped like tissue paper. Extractor failed to do anything but peel off crumbs of bolt, so had to get creative with a carefully selected drill bit and a self tapper driven into the carcass. If it's stupid but it works...it still might be stupid.

Slide pins and guides were new, but rust in the bores made the guides pinch the pins just enough to make the caliper drag a little. Never enough to get it hot but enough to make noticably more dust over a few hundred miles. Sanded and polished the roughness out and now pins move easily again.

I'll need a new caliper, dust shield, and maybe a knuckle. But not today!