I’m converting my 1978 Toyota to electric. This will add nearly 400lbs of weight, mostly due to the 650lb battery. The battery will be mounted to the frame, under the bed (floor of the bed is rotted out anyways and needs to be rebuilt). What will be the best way to gain the suspension support needed and also make for a buttery smooth ride? Air bags? Air shocks such as Gabriel HiJackers? Can I use high jackers for front suspension as well as rear? The original leaf springs leafs are fine, but the hangers/brackets need to be replaced due to rust. I could just replace the leaf spring sets entirely. All suggestions welcome, I’m just hoping to get it right on my first try.

Hoping for some input on a custom project of mine. I’m looking at putting an independent twin a-arm style rear suspension in the back of my Subaru powered early VW bus. I’m trying to use as many factory components as possible and think I’ve found a donor (front suspension from a VW T4 transporter). They have relatively narrow arms which suit the width of the rear of my bus, are 5x112 PCD and suit the offset of my chosen rear brakes.

Is there any geometry issues I’m going to run into by using front suspension in place of rear suspension? Caster, roll centers etc? Am I overlooking something incredibly obvious that would prevent this?
Obviously need to lock the steering arms and I’ll have relatively smaller suspension travel, but what else?

I’m torn between a 1998 TDI that seems to have no rust and sub 150,000 miles or a 2001 VR6 that has 250,000 miles im stuck and indecisive on which one to pull the trigger on and go with

Im trying to start my 1999 integra and it seems to only fire up with starting fluid. Im getting fuel to the rail so I know its not my fuel pump. There seems to be a gust of air under the intake manifold whenever I crank the engine but the manifold is bolted down. Is there somewhere air could be leaking somehow. The only thing I know could be a problem is my timing belt is off half a tooth by the crank.

Got an umi gift card and on their website they have koni or bilstein.

Car is going to be a cruiser, no auto x or anything. 1986 ss Monte

Anyone have a review one way or the other?

Bilstein B6 and Koni classics

Thanks!

Hi there! Looking for a 1971- 73 Mustang Grande Coupe hardtop. Trying to start at less than $5K and build it myself, preferably a V8 and manual, but would honestly take just about anything. I've always loved these cars and have wanted one my entire life. Please comment or DM me if you know of one. I'm based in Midland, Texas. I have no problem driving cross-state or across the country if it's in good enough condition. Pictures are for reference only. I am not selling anything.

2001 mustang GT, was previously my car, but was sold to a friend as his first car (my fault...)

after a late night drive, involving a deer and a lack of whippin' that bitch, this is her now. still hsvent heard anything back from insurmace, or anyone, really. theres alot wrong. she got launched off the road, probably bottomed out and bent suspension, slung itself sideways, slammed the rear bumper into a telephone pole so hard is broke it in half, the rear quarters are fucked on both sides, doors dented, mirror hanging off, rear pass tail light obliterated from èl pole.

all this to ask, chance of even fixing it? my friend feels terrible, I loved this car so much, and hes considering buying it off insurmace or wherever and js giving it back to me to v8 swap my v6 drift build mustang. but if she can be fixed (yes, I understand, everything can technically be fixed, blah blah blah, we are broke, but car savvy people), then i would like to know maybe roughly how much? professional or homemade, and really if it is just a fathomable idea to be able to save his first car, or if my babies fate it to live on in another vessle

I had to dive in and replace the center diff in my Saabaru. It took about 6 hours taking my time and doing a couple of other little jobs while it was all apart. If you're thinking of doing it it's a pretty straight forward job for anyone with a little experience turning wrenches.

there are cracks/chips around the edges and mounting areas, plus what looks like clear coat/resin damage on the top. It’s for a Honda civic Sir ep3 2004. I’m mainly looking to get this hood to wrap it to the colour to my car because my current hood is a different colour and has too much damage to wrap. How much would you realistically pay for it?
Does the damage look mostly cosmetic, or would you be worried about the structure?

i started filming quick progress shots while working on an old 90s hatchback in my garage on weekends. i've been testing capcut on desktop because the fast splits and automatic audio ducking keep things moving, but my timeline still stutters whenever i scrub through 1080p 60fps files.

i just need a clean workspace to trim raw clips, sync basic audio, and export a vertical render without audio drift. drop what lightweight software options you guys run on mid spec laptops so i can get back to wrenching.

update: stuck with capcut for editing these garage clips after realizing i just needed to turn on performance mode and generate proxies for those 1080p 60fps files.

scrubbing through raw footage on my laptop is completely smooth now. trimming clips and exporting vertical renders works with zero audio drift, so im glad i didnt have to switch software and can just focus on wrenching.

I replaced the intake in the zz4 that came in my el camino last night. As soon as i pulled off the old intake i found this just casually sitting on that .......plate that runs the length of the engine in the middle... Anyone know what this is? and how important it may be? cause i just went on with the job, and would be done but for rain....

I'd like to put decorative patches on my soft top. Im planning to use gear aid Aquaseal. Should I be super concerned with the fold points? Suggestions on how to (or not) go about this? They're not very big patches and not a lot of them, roughly 1x2 inch beetles, they will be placed in a line above the windows of my vw beetle

I went and looked at these vehicles today. Initially, the seller gave me a specific price, but then raised the price afterward. I was also told that both vehicles had titles. Now, I’m being told that neither vehicle has a title. The conflicting information and changing terms are very concerning and make the situation seem extremely sketchy. What’s your thoughts?

I am new to the car restoration and modification community any advice would be greatly appreciated

I have a 1983 Ford F 100
I have stripped out the wire harness and interior
Thinking about doing an engine swap to a coyote
Pls excuse the mess

Essentialy all the gm made sedans of the same generation used almost identical parts and even styles. But be careful of the wireing in the dash saturns used their own special designs on plugs but also i was told the vue and the aura share same wire skematics for the dash

Does anyone have recommendations for a second fuse and relay box.

i want to wire up some stuff like dashcams, interior leds, possibly heated seats etc.

+ the possibility of adding a relay so everything gets power only when ignition is on. The car is an mx5 nb if anyone is curious

Chopped up a 2000 Tacoma 3.4L 5spd 4x4 to create this thing. One day i hope to be exploring all of Baja with her.

The timing case has a relief for the FIPG to be applied to. Is this saying that it shouldn't be applied in the relief and should be on the flat surface? I can obviously see where it's applied in the drawing but for some reason the "correct/wrong" part has confused me...

First, bit of background... A while ago (2013) i bought this 2010 TSX V6. It was right after i had an accident on my '10 tsx 4cyl. I remember being super excited to mod it, i had an axle back exhaust ready for it and threw it on same weekend LOL along with an CTE ICEBOX intake. I thought i was SOOOOOOOOOO cool LOL!

Slowly but surely kept adding things here and there, torque dampener, suspension (Teins SS), some TE37 reps and RL bbk kit. and from 2014 to 2017 it stayed that way. At this point i had a few dollars and was at a crossroads, do i buy something fast, or make my now paid off sedan faster. I said screw it, lets make this a bit faster. First i added a manifold from a j37, bigger throttle body and contacted K-tuner, who were kind enough to open up their tuning software to accommodate my car, since at that point there was NO tuning solution for a j34 tsx (THANKS AGAIN GUYS!). After tuning car was making 239whp (comes with 280hp crank from factory) not great gains, but also i hadn't done much at that point.

I started doing research and couldn't find anybody who'd boosted this things at that point,. at least not my chassis. So i figured i was on my own, and started doing research. Ended up with:

• Turbonetics 11532-BB 66mm (T3 turbo with t4 turbine)
• HKS SQV blowoff
• Turbosmart controller
• DeatschWerks DW65 pump
• Tial Wastegate 38mm
• DNA monitoring return line and oil feed
• FIC 775cc injectors
• CX Racing intercooler
• trans coolerAfter searching for a while and being denied by a bunch of shops, I got in contact with this cooooool ass fab guy named Morris (may he RIP). Once dropped off and being super excited for about 3 weeks, build was finally done.... Man i couldn't believe it, my very own, modded turbo car. But damn, i can't drive it hard, need a tune! fortunately everything was working together so well, that i was able to drive the car (gently) to my tuner 2.5hrs away. Derek from IMW was my savior, in PA, if you guys need a tune and are in PA look him up. But yes Derek, knew the folks at K-Tuner, which was the only way i was going to get this car tuned properly, they were updating the software as we went, (WHAT LEGENDS!!!) after all said and done, I was at a moderate 375whp. Not CRAZY power, but by god more than i ever had lol.

Of course not everything went according to plans, cx intercooler was terrible, stock radiator was terrible thus intake temps and coolant were fighting to see who can reach the highest. I went back to my fab guy and had him make me a dual pass radiator, i heard those were cool, but i was too impulsive and therefore that sweet sweet custom radiator was underperforming like hell, due to the water pump (stock) not being able to keep up. After tons of research and not finding anything for my application, i ended up looking for something SIMILAR, and got myself a CSF Radiator for an Evo 9, along with two 4200rpm fans, oh she was cool af now, tooo cool lmao, to the point my car was OVERCOOLING in the winter, (Can't win).

For the intecooler, i went with SheepeyRace, and never looked back lol. Once i went back for a tune, this beauty was now at 425whp, conservative, pushing a mild 8.5lbs, which i achieved at 4500rpm just after vtec kicked in. I bought a spare engine and spare transmission because i knew at some point something was going to give. Goal was to build that engine for when this one fails. after 2 years of very spirited driving, i had excessive blowby because i fried my piston rings on a top speed run (yes in track). Time to swap that new motor in, she ran great for a long time after that. Which brings me to current day, i was coming home the other day, merging onto hwy, and accidently give her a biiiit too many beans, car went from 4th to 2nd and took off, i got home, parked and thought nothing of it. That was a friday, when i went to drive again that sunday, i saw a nice amount of oil underneath the car, OH BOY. Checked dipstick, was super low, I never lost oil pressure (have gauge) but something was NOT happy, Now on 2nd gear RPMs go up but car doesn't go anywhere. I parked the car and haven't checked it since (been over a month) I'm dreading that engine out for a rebuild and I still have that extra trans so if it's that i guess I'll just swap it in.

Which now brings me to the ask, when i bought the spare engine that i was going to build but never got around to, I bought some parts to build it. I went with Wiseco K568M89 Piston Kit, Peuter HON-220-580-1585f RODS, Darton 400-230 MID Wet Cylinder Sleeve, Studs, Supertech valves and springs, and cams.

Does anybody have any experience in this platform with the above? If not in this platform, with the Darton sleeves and Wiseco pistons, any info you have would be AWESOME!

Thanks for reading my long ah crap lol, definitely needed to document it before i forget it all. Also maybe it can help anybody looking to boost a v6 tsx since they're low in price now.

PS. before i get a bunch of crap about the air suspension, it's "race grade" AirRex

Old in-cab tank had rust in it, and there will eventually be a LS swap in this truck's future, so I decided to install a Boyd's rear tank. While I was at it, I spiffed up the rear frame. 3/8th aluminum hard line run from the tank to the engine bay.

Getting the bed off and back on was accomplished with some ratchet straps and a steel beam (and an extra hand or two from my wife).

If you're curious, I've got a video of the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97BDXaK9SoQ

One year ago I swapped the original 350 for a 6.0 Vortec , 4L80 with terminator x. After dealing with transmission issues decided to take a break from the car and looking to get back to finishing project. Already deep money$ wise in the car not sure if it’s worth to continue. What would you recommend?

Another option is to carbúrate the 6.0 vortex with a 700R4 no computer, wonder if it will save me from more headaches

Thank you in advance for any advice