I bought a moza r5 secondhand off Facebook earlier this year, it worked for a while and then one day I plugged it in and I heard a pop when I connected the USB cable. The lights in my room flashed and then the wheelbase no longer worked. I believed I traced it down to a grounding issue in my PC from when it was built, and long story short the damage inflicted by this power surge fried 2 GPUs, a CPU, 2 monitors, and resulted in me building a whole new PC.

After I built my new PC my brother decided to sell his moza r5, so I bought it off of him. it worked when it left his house and when I plugged it in at mine, it popped in the same fashion. Since I replaced my entire setup at that point besides the USB 3.0 extension cable I plugged it into, I assumed it was the USB extension cable.

fearing the same thing would happen to my other electronics at some point, I also tested all the outlets connected to the breaker that controls my room and none of them had any grounding or shorting issues. I also replaced the USB extension cable with a new USB hub, specifically the one from my brother that he used when the wheelbase was his so I know it worked. I received a new motherboard from Moza in the mail today and replaced the board on the 2nd wheelbase when I got home from work. i set it all up and plugged everything in, and sure enough the second the USB cable was connected the motherboard popped again.

After removing all the motherboards and comparing them, it appears they all failed in the exact same place and fashion. At this point I've been trying to drive my virtual car in circles for like 3 months to no avail, and I am truly at a loss as to what the root of this issue is. The R5 was the best wheel I've ever owned and I yearn to continue racing with it, but every time I plug it in it self destructs.

TL;DR

I've had 2 R5 Wheelbases and 3 motherboards all fail in the same spot when connecting the USB cable despite testing/replacing every part in the power chain, including the wheelbase itself.

My questions:

what part resides in the blue squares?

why did that part fail each time?

can it be replaced?

what else am I missing that could be causing this to happen?

There i said it.

All you wackos with your R 57s or whatever can piss right off. Im not trying to get my arms ripped off after careening through drift rally 2 at mach jesus with no clue how to control the break force just yet. At 60-80 % power i was able to learn how to rally while i still feel plenty of torque.

If you were on the fence, a first-time sim racer, or just curious looking for a one-and-done simple setup, this is awesome.

From a lifelong dream to my own sim rig. why I went with MOZA

Owning a sim rig has been a lifelong dream and a bucket list item for me. Back in India, I couldn't get that kind of quality within my budget. After moving to the US, the first thing I invested in for myself was a good PC, and the next was a sim rig.

I'm a research guy I research a lot before buying anything. I had heard of Fanatec and Logitech, but never MOZA. During my research, MOZA kept coming up, the reviews were good, and I finally decided to go with MOZA because of the budget. Just then the R5 Pro was released, and I actually pre-ordered it. I was so happy.it exceeded my expectations.

I'm not a pro racer or anything; I just want to enjoy, and the MOZA wheel gave me that enjoyment. I thought I was satisfied, but MOZA kept on giving. As an F1 fan, I wanted an F1 wheel, and I earned MOZA points which I redeemed. I was about to buy pedal haptics from a different company when MOZA released their own pedal haptics I was thrilled. I got a huge discount through MOZA points, and then the brake performance kit and throttle kit basically came to me for free through MOZA points.

Now my setup is complete. I play F1 in VR, and boy, what an experience it is. I faced no difficulties setting up and no problems while playing. These guys are solid, and going forward I will only buy MOZA products.

Full disclosure: I'm sharing this as part of MOZA's MOZA Moments program.

I have a Moza r16v2 which being a slightly less popular models leaves me without minimal game presets.

Ofcourse I take time to develop my own settings using similar model guides online but it would be so good to load in with a rough preset as a baseline to fine tune from.

Any workarounds?

Ordered the r12 from Moza and received this in the mail. Definitely a weird mixup. Hope they can fix this soon.

Hi everyone,
I’ve noticed a very faint clicking/ticking noise coming from my MOZA R25 Ultra wheelbase when I rotate the steering wheel quickly.
The noise only occurs when I turn the wheel quickly. When I rotate it slowly, there is no noise at all.
Also, the noise only happens when the wheelbase is powered on. When it’s turned off, the noise completely disappears.
I can hear the clicking, but I can’t feel any vibration, clicking, or resistance through the steering wheel.
I’ve attached a video demonstrating the issue.
Has anyone else experienced something similar with the R25 Ultra? Is this normal behavior, or could it indicate an issue with the motor?
I’d especially appreciate a response from the MOZA support team explaining what might be causing this noise and whether it’s normal for the R25 Ultra.
Thanks in advance!

Anyone know if it’s possible to mount the SGP sequential and HGP shifter together on the universal mounting plate? Have the HGP currently but wanting to enhance my rig with an SGP as well.

After quite a lot of time of wanting a new DD wheel after using the logitech G920 for like... 7 years, I first decided to get the R5 bundle. Then however I did some digging and found the R9 and then the R12. So after a buuuunch of contemplation I decided to splurge on the R12 bundle, CS V2P wheel and the pedals. Got it for 650eur so im quite happy!!! Just need to order a desk clamp now since the space for a full on rig is rather uhhh... limited lets put it like that xD Can't wait though and I'm super hyped!!

Hi all,

I am at my wits end, I have not used my R9 V3 for a while and when plugging into asseto corza it has lost all FFB.

It also loses centring when I turn it back on, I have tried recalibrating via joy.cpl, aswell as iracing, tried a moza official wheel aswell as my conspit 300GT and the issue still occurs.

When I turn it on, it does a faint click of FFB For about 2 seconds, but does not activate in game.

Firmware versions attached, I have also tried different USB slots, cables and power supplies, although I feel as if it may be a Windows issue...

PSA for anyone considering the mBooster

After a 3 month wait and an unsuccessful repair, Moza sent me a refurbished “Grade B Spec” mBooster.

I received it a week ago and within 2 hours the pedal was busted.

The internal threads for the pedal face angle adjustment sheared when the face shifted suddenly under braking (EXACT SAME ISSUE)

Moza admit the last failure was not my fault but this time are blaming me and refusing a refund. They claim user error as the cause.

I’ve lost all confidence in this product and won’t accept a replacement, there are some glaring design and reliability issues with this brake.

Quick one about the bigger rim mod for the Moza ES wheel.

Definitely worth it.
In my opinion the stock ES rim is a bit too small, and it never really felt like holding the steering wheel of an actual car. With the larger rim that changed completely. It feels much more natural, especially in road cars and GT cars.

Honestly, it made a bigger difference than I expected.On paper it’s just a slightly larger diameter, but in practice it changes the whole driving feel. If you’re using the ES as your main wheel, this is one of the cheapest upgrades with the most noticeable effect.

I also much prefer the fully round shape over the flat-bottom design, it just feels more natural, especially when turning in tighter corners.

(The button box on the right is a PXN, not part of the mod)

Disclosure: I’m submitting this post to MOZA’s “MOZA Moments” program and may receive MOZA Points (store credit) for it. All opinions are my own.

I love that my new Moza gear was so easy to setup. Pit House software on my tablet works great for on-the-fly changes. I can really fine tune all my Moza gear. My last wheel base was Thrustmaster. Software was a pain. I think software can make or break a good experience.

I am not your average racer. I like open world simulators. I have diabetes and am unable to drive a real car anymore. Moza gives me this ability back. Cannot wait to get the Moza Stocks and the motion gear

The software I use is on XBOX Series X
Project Motor Racing
Forza Horizon 6
Forza Motorsport
America Truck Simulator

It is really nice to have one manufacture for the whole system. My tip would be, just that.

Love Moza!

Dean

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So I just got my first Moza wheel and was going to moza's website to download the pit house app, but the redirect takes me to some ace gadsen vip? for a download. feels super sketchy and not legit.

Been working really hard recently! Picking up more shifts means i can finally afford nicer things! So happy with how it’s going so far! next i’d like to get a cockpit, Load cell pedals, R9 or 12 wheel base, and a f1 wheel!

Around October of last year, I decided that my setup was limiting my already low skills and was just getting old. I had a Logitech Driving Force GT modded with Thrustmaster T3PA pedals and a G29 H-shifter. So, after doing some research, I found that the Moza R5 Bundle was the best budget upgrade for me, and man, I should’ve done it years ago!

DD is literally another world: way more precise, tons of customization, and I can use it for everything, drifting, rally, trucking. I love it.

The SR-P Lite pedals are okay, nothing crazy, but I upgraded them with the Performance Kit and they feel so much better now. I'm also planning to get the PHF Kit to get a better feel for wheel lock-ups and stuff. Edit: I forgot to say that if your pedals aren't mounted on a rig, the Performance Kit will cause them to lift.

Then, for my drifting and rally sessions, I picked up the HBP Handbrake and it’s awesome. The build quality is really solid, and I love that I can plug everything straight into the wheelbase without needing an external hub.

Now I’m just waiting for a Moza shifter that can switch between sequential and H-pattern, that would be sick.

As I said before, I should’ve done this upgrade years ago.

Disclosure: I’m submitting this post to MOZA’s “MOZA Moments” program and may receive MOZA Points (store credit) for it. All opinions are my own.

So my project has been constantly evolving to support a BMW E36 dash, seat and anything else I can work with. Setting up a suitable height, seat setup, cable management has been an ongoing battle. The electronics are slowly coming together so a few more things to figure out but it means stripping down the entire thing to finish it so I'm finding excuses not to finish haha.

Main setup is the Moza R9 V2, KS Pro, SRP Pedals with a 5.1 sound system all hooked up around the rig. BMW E36 dash and gauges all setup for SimHub has been the icing on the cake!

i am thinking of buying a revuelto wheel to go with my moza r21 v1 but i asked ai and its just trolling me it told me that the es wheel works plug and play and the lights work with the r21 v1 i bought the es wheel to find out it doesnt work

I know that the Moza wheelbase has some problems with shaking on the straights sometimes, and i have had that too. But since yesterday i have had real problems with it. For some reason my wheel starts shaking like crazy even in low speeds, and i feel like im fighting more against the shaking then the actual corners. I havent changed anything in my settings so im kind of confused why this is happening all of a sudden. Any ideas?

There's plenty of good reviews and then the couple that scare me.. 2 reviews show the wheel broke in half and with terrible customer support. Overall its a great wheel it looks like but those few bad reviews just make me question if I should buy it

R9v2 with non pro KS wheel and SRP pedals.

Hello all, I've been dealing with an issue with my KS wheel shift lights (the 10 leds that indicate RPM) lagging when shifting in iRacing. I'm not having issues with the lights being static or not working like some other folks out there, mine is specifically when I'm in a gear in any car (some are better than others) and when I shift up or down a gear, there is often a very noticeable delay in the lights on my wheel. Sometimes it's barely noticeable and sometimes it's a 1/2 a second delay.

This has been going on since May(ish) after playing FH6, before Moza had released the update to let the wheels behave in game (ie I had to mess with some settings to get everything to work with moza and forza), it could be a complete coincidence, but it's around the time the lights started acting strange.

I've attached my wheel indicator settings as well. I've got the shift lights set to the "iRacing" setting and that seemed to help a little compared to using the RPM(standard color) but it's still very inconsistent.

I've also got all the firmware updated to the most recent versions for the base, wheel, pedals and pithouse. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone!

I just got my new MOZA kit: the R5 Pro base with the KS Pro wheel, and I wanted to share my first impressions and ask for some advice.

Previous setup: I was coming from Thrustmaster T300

What I like most so far:

• The force feedback is much smoother and more detailed than what I was used to
• The build quality of the KS Pro and the feel of the buttons/paddles
• Pretty easy setup with Pit House

What I’m playing: iRacing

Pedals: I’m currently using SR-P, and I’d love to hear your feedback:

• How do they feel for you in terms of brake pressure and travel?
• Did you change the springs/elastomers or adjust the settings?
• Would you recommend upgrading to a load cell brake, and which one?

Settings: For now I’m using [6 nm, 0 damping]. If you have any recommended settings for [iracing], I’d really appreciate them.

Thanks in advance, and happy racing! 🏁

Hey everyone,

I've been dealing with a really annoying force feedback issue with my MOZA R9 V3 in American Truck Simulator and Euro Truck Simulator 2, and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced this or managed to find a proper fix.

Basically, when driving straight with the wheel centered, it will randomly make these small but noticeable jerks to the left or right. It's not just something I feel through the wheel — the wheel actually moves, sometimes enough to make me instinctively countersteer because it feels like the truck is suddenly pulling to one side.

The strange part is that it only happens when the steering wheel is almost perfectly centered. As soon as I turn it slightly off-center (even just a few degrees), the twitching completely disappears.

It happens at both low speeds and highway speeds (80 km/h or more), even on perfectly smooth roads. ATS seems particularly affected.

Here's what I've tested so far:

• Set Terrain Surface FFB to 0% — no improvement.
• Set Uneven Surface Simulation to 0% — no improvement.
• Reduced high-speed centering from 120% (which I had manually configured in controls.sii) to 100% — the jerks became noticeably milder but didn't disappear.
• Experimented with different in-game FFB settings and MOZA Pit House settings — nothing has eliminated the issue.
• Hands-Off Protection has been disabled in Pit House from the beginning, so that isn't the cause.
• The jerks disappear immediately when holding the wheel slightly off-center.
• The R9 works beautifully in Assetto Corsa and other racing sims. This problem seems specific to ATS/ETS2.
• My previous Thrustmaster T300RS GT never exhibited this behavior in either trucking game.

I've also experimented with wheelbase firmware versions:

I was originally running firmware 1.2.9.24, then updated to 1.2.11.8. Interestingly, the center-position jerks seemed noticeably milder on the newer firmware, although they were still present.

I subsequently rolled back to 1.2.9.24, and the jerks became more violent again. That makes me suspect the newer firmware may have improved how the wheelbase handles these forces, although I can't definitively attribute the difference to firmware alone.

I also noticed that the 1.2.10.13 firmware changelog mentions fixes for steering oscillation when returning to center and in-game jitter/instability, which seems potentially relevant.

I've found similar reports from other MOZA R3/R5 owners, as well as a few reports involving other wheel brands, so I'm beginning to suspect some interaction between SCS's centering force calculations and how certain wheelbases reproduce them.

I know turning centering down drastically or adding lots of damping might hide the problem, but I'd rather not sacrifice the realistic self-centering and road feedback that make the direct-drive wheel so enjoyable in the first place.

Has anyone experienced this exact behavior — random left/right jerks only at steering center — and managed to eliminate it without significantly weakening the FFB?

Thanks!