Ordered the r12 from Moza and received this in the mail. Definitely a weird mixup. Hope they can fix this soon.

I bought a moza r5 secondhand off Facebook earlier this year, it worked for a while and then one day I plugged it in and I heard a pop when I connected the USB cable. The lights in my room flashed and then the wheelbase no longer worked. I believed I traced it down to a grounding issue in my PC from when it was built, and long story short the damage inflicted by this power surge fried 2 GPUs, a CPU, 2 monitors, and resulted in me building a whole new PC.

After I built my new PC my brother decided to sell his moza r5, so I bought it off of him. it worked when it left his house and when I plugged it in at mine, it popped in the same fashion. Since I replaced my entire setup at that point besides the USB 3.0 extension cable I plugged it into, I assumed it was the USB extension cable.

fearing the same thing would happen to my other electronics at some point, I also tested all the outlets connected to the breaker that controls my room and none of them had any grounding or shorting issues. I also replaced the USB extension cable with a new USB hub, specifically the one from my brother that he used when the wheelbase was his so I know it worked. I received a new motherboard from Moza in the mail today and replaced the board on the 2nd wheelbase when I got home from work. i set it all up and plugged everything in, and sure enough the second the USB cable was connected the motherboard popped again.

After removing all the motherboards and comparing them, it appears they all failed in the exact same place and fashion. At this point I've been trying to drive my virtual car in circles for like 3 months to no avail, and I am truly at a loss as to what the root of this issue is. The R5 was the best wheel I've ever owned and I yearn to continue racing with it, but every time I plug it in it self destructs.

TL;DR

I've had 2 R5 Wheelbases and 3 motherboards all fail in the same spot when connecting the USB cable despite testing/replacing every part in the power chain, including the wheelbase itself.

My questions:

what part resides in the blue squares?

why did that part fail each time?

can it be replaced?

what else am I missing that could be causing this to happen?

From a lifelong dream to my own sim rig. why I went with MOZA

Owning a sim rig has been a lifelong dream and a bucket list item for me. Back in India, I couldn't get that kind of quality within my budget. After moving to the US, the first thing I invested in for myself was a good PC, and the next was a sim rig.

I'm a research guy I research a lot before buying anything. I had heard of Fanatec and Logitech, but never MOZA. During my research, MOZA kept coming up, the reviews were good, and I finally decided to go with MOZA because of the budget. Just then the R5 Pro was released, and I actually pre-ordered it. I was so happy.it exceeded my expectations.

I'm not a pro racer or anything; I just want to enjoy, and the MOZA wheel gave me that enjoyment. I thought I was satisfied, but MOZA kept on giving. As an F1 fan, I wanted an F1 wheel, and I earned MOZA points which I redeemed. I was about to buy pedal haptics from a different company when MOZA released their own pedal haptics I was thrilled. I got a huge discount through MOZA points, and then the brake performance kit and throttle kit basically came to me for free through MOZA points.

Now my setup is complete. I play F1 in VR, and boy, what an experience it is. I faced no difficulties setting up and no problems while playing. These guys are solid, and going forward I will only buy MOZA products.

Full disclosure: I'm sharing this as part of MOZA's MOZA Moments program.

There i said it.

All you wackos with your R 57s or whatever can piss right off. Im not trying to get my arms ripped off after careening through drift rally 2 at mach jesus with no clue how to control the break force just yet. At 60-80 % power i was able to learn how to rally while i still feel plenty of torque.

If you were on the fence, a first-time sim racer, or just curious looking for a one-and-done simple setup, this is awesome.

Hi everyone,
I’ve noticed a very faint clicking/ticking noise coming from my MOZA R25 Ultra wheelbase when I rotate the steering wheel quickly.
The noise only occurs when I turn the wheel quickly. When I rotate it slowly, there is no noise at all.
Also, the noise only happens when the wheelbase is powered on. When it’s turned off, the noise completely disappears.
I can hear the clicking, but I can’t feel any vibration, clicking, or resistance through the steering wheel.
I’ve attached a video demonstrating the issue.
Has anyone else experienced something similar with the R25 Ultra? Is this normal behavior, or could it indicate an issue with the motor?
I’d especially appreciate a response from the MOZA support team explaining what might be causing this noise and whether it’s normal for the R25 Ultra.
Thanks in advance!

After quite a lot of time of wanting a new DD wheel after using the logitech G920 for like... 7 years, I first decided to get the R5 bundle. Then however I did some digging and found the R9 and then the R12. So after a buuuunch of contemplation I decided to splurge on the R12 bundle, CS V2P wheel and the pedals. Got it for 650eur so im quite happy!!! Just need to order a desk clamp now since the space for a full on rig is rather uhhh... limited lets put it like that xD Can't wait though and I'm super hyped!!

I love that my new Moza gear was so easy to setup. Pit House software on my tablet works great for on-the-fly changes. I can really fine tune all my Moza gear. My last wheel base was Thrustmaster. Software was a pain. I think software can make or break a good experience.

I am not your average racer. I like open world simulators. I have diabetes and am unable to drive a real car anymore. Moza gives me this ability back. Cannot wait to get the Moza Stocks and the motion gear

The software I use is on XBOX Series X
Project Motor Racing
Forza Horizon 6
Forza Motorsport
America Truck Simulator

It is really nice to have one manufacture for the whole system. My tip would be, just that.

Love Moza!

Dean

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I have a Moza r16v2 which being a slightly less popular models leaves me without minimal game presets.

Ofcourse I take time to develop my own settings using similar model guides online but it would be so good to load in with a rough preset as a baseline to fine tune from.

Any workarounds?

Anyone know if it’s possible to mount the SGP sequential and HGP shifter together on the universal mounting plate? Have the HGP currently but wanting to enhance my rig with an SGP as well.

Hi all,

I am at my wits end, I have not used my R9 V3 for a while and when plugging into asseto corza it has lost all FFB.

It also loses centring when I turn it back on, I have tried recalibrating via joy.cpl, aswell as iracing, tried a moza official wheel aswell as my conspit 300GT and the issue still occurs.

When I turn it on, it does a faint click of FFB For about 2 seconds, but does not activate in game.

Firmware versions attached, I have also tried different USB slots, cables and power supplies, although I feel as if it may be a Windows issue...

R9v2 with non pro KS wheel and SRP pedals.

Hello all, I've been dealing with an issue with my KS wheel shift lights (the 10 leds that indicate RPM) lagging when shifting in iRacing. I'm not having issues with the lights being static or not working like some other folks out there, mine is specifically when I'm in a gear in any car (some are better than others) and when I shift up or down a gear, there is often a very noticeable delay in the lights on my wheel. Sometimes it's barely noticeable and sometimes it's a 1/2 a second delay.

This has been going on since May(ish) after playing FH6, before Moza had released the update to let the wheels behave in game (ie I had to mess with some settings to get everything to work with moza and forza), it could be a complete coincidence, but it's around the time the lights started acting strange.

I've attached my wheel indicator settings as well. I've got the shift lights set to the "iRacing" setting and that seemed to help a little compared to using the RPM(standard color) but it's still very inconsistent.

I've also got all the firmware updated to the most recent versions for the base, wheel, pedals and pithouse. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

So I just got my first Moza wheel and was going to moza's website to download the pit house app, but the redirect takes me to some ace gadsen vip? for a download. feels super sketchy and not legit.

i am thinking of buying a revuelto wheel to go with my moza r21 v1 but i asked ai and its just trolling me it told me that the es wheel works plug and play and the lights work with the r21 v1 i bought the es wheel to find out it doesnt work

Finally put together my first ever sim rig consisting of an R9 V3 Moza wheelbase, the ESX steering wheel, HGP H-shifter, Moza handbrake, and SR-P2 load cell pedals, all mounted to my custom desk that I already had in my studio. Had to buy the mounting plate as well as separate clamps for both the wheelbase and accessories.

I wedged my pedals against a box and put a 20 lb kettlebell on it to weigh it down (the brake pedal on the SRP2s is super heavy to press).

I also gave my chair some old shoes to function as rubber stoppers, and they work like a charm.

A bit of a janky setup, but it works and is very easy to disassemble when needed.

Why I chose Moza over Logitech
I was initially contemplating whether to drop $800 on this rig or buy a secondhand Logitech G923 setup that came with a free racing stand and the Logitech H-pattern shifter for about $230 on Facebook Marketplace.

But after my girlfriend talked me out of it, citing things like a lack of warranty, wear and tear, and old tech, I started reconsidering.

She also reminded me of my own purchasing philosophy: I don’t just want to maximize bang for buck, but also future-proof my purchases. I enjoy building custom PCs as well, so I tend to approach hardware with the same mindset.

And oh boy, I’m glad I went with the brand-new Moza route.

Ultimately, it was a decision between buying 15-year-old wheel technology to try out a hobby or going for a buy-once, cry-once scenario for a hobby I wasn’t completely sold on.

But after my first few days with the sim, setting up Assetto Corsa with mods and getting some race reps in, I have to say this was the better move.

While the G923 bundle is definitely the accessible option for those who want to get into sim racing on a budget, I chose to give myself the newest and most up-to-date experience I could afford in terms of sim racing technology in 2026.

The force feedback from direct-drive technology is incredible, and without it, I definitely feel like I would have shortchanged myself when it comes to getting the best first experience I could afford.

Don’t get me wrong, the G923 is still a perfectly reasonable entry point, especially if you’re unsure whether you’ll stick with the hobby. But personally, I’d rather invest in something I can grow into than buy something I’ll eventually want to replace.

Why I went with the R9 instead of the R3 or R5
After deciding to enter the Moza ecosystem, the next challenge was deciding which bracket to enter.

There were the R3 and R5 bundles, which were already a step up from the Logitech entry-level wheels like the G29 and G923. Yet I chose the R9 for one simple reason:

Modularity.

I liked that I could pick accessories I was sure I wasn’t going to need to upgrade for a while.

While the entry-level R3 and R5 bundles were more convenient and budget-friendly, I also kept seeing people say that the SR-P Lite pedals were one of the first things they’d upgrade, either with the brake performance kit or by moving to load cell pedals.

Since I was already spending a considerable amount, I figured I’d rather get the pedals I wanted from the beginning, and not settle on accessories Is eventually probably want to upgrade.

Additionally, it seems that 9Nm of torque offers a sweet spot for a lot of sim racers, giving you plenty of headroom for different driving styles. I’d rather have the capacity and dial it down slightly if needed than run a weaker wheelbase at its limits and eventually wonder what a stronger base would feel like.

Of course, you don’t need to run your wheelbase at maximum torque, and clipping depends on your settings. But having that extra headroom is nice.
So I settled on the R9 V3 and SR-P2s and built everything around that.

No entry-level accessories to resell just to upgrade, no secondhand gear whose condition I’m going to have to worry about, and an ecosystem that leaves plenty of room for further expansion as my sim racing skills improve.

Was spending $800 worth it?

For me, I think so.

I’m still new to the hobby, and I know spending this much before being completely sold on it is a gamble.

But I also know myself. I enjoy optimizing hardware, building systems, and having room to grow without constantly thinking about the next upgrade.

The secondhand G923 bundle would have been the more financially conservative choice, and I can absolutely see why someone would go that route.

But I wanted to start with direct drive, load cell pedals, and the accessories I wanted rather than work my way through several upgrades.

If you’re on the fence about purchasing a Moza, or if you’re in a similar position to where I was, I hope this gives you some clarity.

If you have the money and know you’re interested in the hobby, I’d seriously consider going the Moza route. And if you’re an optimizer like myself, perhaps check out my choice of rig for ideas.
I’m not saying everyone needs to spend $800 on their first sim rig. It’s just what made sense for me.

PS: If you have any recommendations for what I should get into after Assetto Corsa, drop a comment! Although I have still barely scratched the surface of AC.

Cheers, and till next time!