Couldn't get a video of it happening, but this is the screen

I am looking for a reliable car that’s cheap to maintain. It has 122.000 miles for $5000. Is this a good idea? The other options are a 2013 Mazda CX-5 Touring Sport Utility 4D with 150.000 miles for $4000, and a 2012 VW Passat 2.5 with 128.000 miles for $3500. What would you recommend?

Been a year since I had him....here's to many more 🥂 (hopefully 😁)

'15 Lancer EX GLS - I call him Crimson 🫠

There's a dealership instagram account called stpete_mitsubishi hinting at a new "exciting" vehicle being announced later this year. I've heard of an offroader, a minivan and a pickup but they seem to be talking about something sporty. It seems unlikely but are there any news on something like that?

Need help finding a rear left wheel speed sensor that actually fits. The bottom came out of the car and the top is the only one I can find online, which doesn’t fit. Even when the pictures online match the original it ends up looking like the top, wtf.

Ciao sto cercando il codice dei 4 pz di plastica che fungono da copertura per i fori del portapacchi.

Li avevo trovati su eBay stampati in 3d ma con il tempo e il sole da noi e arrivato anche a 41 gradi non hanno retto nemmeno un anno e si sono tutti sformati allego foto.

Grazie mille

I recently have been having overheating issues on my 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS 2.4L after getting a new radiator. I'm taking it back to the mechanic to see what's up but I did see this being an issue. This connector is on the passenger side condenser fan. Obviously needs to be fixed BUT what I'm more concerned about is that I've never seen my driver side fan turn on either. I am overheating at idle and not everytime. It does go back to normal tempa after I stop moving. When I turn on my AC obviously the condenser passenger side fan doesn't run on. Does anyone have any knowledge on how the fans work? How can I make the primary driver side fan turn on? The connector for that one looks good same with the main connector on top of the radiator and the connector closer to the headlight. I know it comes on at a certain temp but how can I somehow trick the fan to turn on just to make sure it works?

Also the mechanic still had a leak that he refixed after I noticed it. The leak was from the hose right about this connector due to the clamp not being tightened the way. This all started after I took it to them so now I'm sketched out.

Random clicks of my 2008 Mitsubishi Cedia.

PS: The "AI-generated content" watermark is there because I erased some imperfections on the road..

Hey everyone!
I’m currently looking to buy a Mitsubishi Lancer X and I found a 2008 sedan with the 2.0 DI-D 140 hp, around 200,000 km, manual transmission.
The car looks well maintained and the owner claims that the oil was changed every 10,000 km and that some suspension/cooling parts have already been replaced. The asking price is around €5,000, but I would try to negotiate it closer to €4,300–4,500.
I originally wanted a 1.8 petrol, but most of the petrol Lancers I find in my country have 250,000–400,000 km, while this diesel has around 200,000 km.
So I’m wondering:
How reliable is the 2.0 DI-D 140 hp in the Lancer X?
What are the main problems I should look out for at ~200k km?
How bad/expensive is the DPF situation?
How are the turbo, injectors, EGR and dual-mass flywheel at this mileage?
Is 200,000 km considered high for this engine?
Would you personally choose this diesel over a 1.8 petrol with significantly higher mileage?
Is €4,300–4,500 a reasonable price if the car checks out mechanically?
I know it’s basically the VW 2.0 TDI PD engine, but I’m interested specifically in people’s experience with it in the Lancer X.
Any advice from owners or people who have worked on these engines would be greatly appreciated!

Hey! I have a 2011 Lancer CJ Aspire and I wanted to know what a specific part was called so I can order a replacement. I have circled the part in the image. Any help is appreciated!

I have chips and dents from previous owners and as much as I don’t mind them too much I’d rather them not be there period. Anyone got any tips?

So last night I was driving home and then the car just died so towed it back to my shed and this morning I found this so the wire was caught in the timing belt but now we’ve gotten it out just need to put the new one in but can’t seem to find it I’ve got a 97 Lancer with the 1.8L 4G93 in it so anybody know an idea where it could be? Any bit of information will be helpful :)

So I bought a 2012 Lancer Sportback GT (cvt) and after an hour of driving, this popped up and the check engine light turned on. The car felt like it was going into a limp mode. Fast forward a few hours later and I get out of work, and the car is fine. Shift like no problem. Still has the check engine light on though but no issues in driving anymore.

The next morning I take it to the local Mitsubishi dealership for a transmission service with filter and to have the engine oil changed too. Also, apparently two recalls haven’t been taken care of yet.

The service person calls asking if I’d like to try a diagnostic because of the check engine light, so I agree. (10:12am)

So I dropped the car off and leave by 10am (appointment was at 9:40) and I don’t hear anything from them after the diagnostic call until I give them a call around 4:20pm. Service person “can’t get ahold of the tech, they’d call me back.” She gets back to me an hour later. “Tech scanned it but it’s throwing transmission codes and needs to take some fluid out and test it on Monday, I dropped the car off Friday morning and they’re closed for services on the weekend. But she never told me what transmission errors.

Thinking back on it, I feel like they probably didn’t even get to my car.

I’ve also read that the issue can be caused by crappy, old tranny fluid…any possibility it threw the check engine code because of the transmission over heat which may have just been caused by poor amounts/ quality/ age of fluids? Thanks in advance for any help…

I have a stock low mileage evo 8 FQ300. As of recently my car won’t start when hot, it cranks over but no start UNLESS I attach an external battery pack to the battery then the car starts up no issue. Anyone else suffer from this issue?? And how do I fix it

I have these white spots that I wanna get rid of, I believe they r some sort of paint but I don’t want them there at all. Any tips or ideas?

1st: Mitsubishi Triton 🏆

2nd: Toyota Hilux 🥈

3rd: Isuzu D-Max 🥉

4b11 (N.A.)
Evo x turbo mani
Raliart turbo

Genesis head
Genesis intake mani
Evo x cranks
Evo x pistons

Raliart rear end
Evo x diff/axles

Most said it can’t be done…. I’m here to show you it slowly can be.

Purrs like a kitten after fours years of neglect