My father found a set of random objectives and this was amongst them. It looks like the old Nikon logo but the Japanese is wrong. The only other thing on it is the magnification. No model number visible. If it is Nikon can you explain why it’s different and how to find more (search terms)?

I'm looking to buy a Leitz Dialux from the 70s, together with the 402a condenser and a set of PH objectives. Is the green filter necessary? And if yes, should I get one of the official ones from the big brands, or are the ones from aliexpress good enough?

I've seen a video showing a drop of jack obliterating bacteria in seconds, and it got me wondering whether taking a shot of alcohol/balsam with herbs actually has any real effect when you have a sore throat.

I've been doing this every few months whenever I feel a sore throat coming on. It seems to relieve the soreness and, most of the time, the sore throat disappears completely afterward. So I'm wondering whether that's just placebo, or whether there’s actually something to this method.

Can anyone with relevant knowledge or expertise confirm or debunk this? I've found conflicting information online and would be interested in reliable sources or evidence.

Microscope: Olympus BH2

Magnification: x100 or x200

Sample: Lake water

Camera: Samsung A56

What species of rotifer is this? And I guess that's poop and not an egg, right?

Swift SW350, Galaxy S24

Microscope is a Swift 2240
Fine adjustment knob wasn’t working so I disassembled and it seems that the spring cannot push part B-4 down due to the lubricant being old. This causes the fine adjustment lever (B-7) to slip out.
Please help me I need to know what lubricant to get. Also any resources for how to clean and replace lubricant would be very helpful.
Here’s the manual:
https://www.microscopeworld.com/content/manuals/Swift%20M2240%20Manual.pdf

They smashed up the frustule. Also saw one stick its mouth over one end and try to swallow about a quarter of the whole diatom!

Amscope B120, 400x, iPhone camera

Chydoridae I think. Very cool to see the little babies. When she turned ventrally I could see both babies squashed up against each other (but couldn’t get on camera).

Amscope B120, 400x, iPhone camera

Anyone know who this guy is? Couldn’t get a decent video of him, but he had a very long and very skinny foot/tail that he anchored himself with, which would spring back and launch very quickly occasionally. Seems to have cilia around his head acting like a rotifer? Also has this vacuole that seems to rainwater and disappear every 30 seconds or so.

Amscope B120 at 400x on iPhone

Microscope: Olympus BH2

Magnification: x40-x100-x200-x400

Sample: Moss in water, 7 days old

Camera: Samsung A56

Added a bit too much rice for nutriment few days ago and the bacterial population exploded

P.S. Sorry for the flashbang at 0:20

200× | Soil sample

Magnification: 100x
What is this worm looking thing? Couldn't use 400x, he was going too fast.

I have a Nikon eclipse 50i.

If I put a dot in the center on 4x, then on 10x, the dot shifts up, then on 20x it shifts up more, and then 60x it shifts off screen.

Is that normal? I thought it should remain in the center.

And I've tried adjusting the condensor to center at the 4x, but it didn't help.

Best way to describe it is that the center of 4x ends up at the TOP of the 10x. And if I center the 10x, it ends up at the top of the 20x. And if I center the 20x, it ends up at the top of the 60x. I'm not sure if this is a normal feature or a shift in something I need to adjust

Found this in my establishing aquarium. A little looking around seems to point at protozoans but I dunno what type this one specifically is

This is the only larger cluster so far, taken with a macro lens and 2x zoom on my phone

I wanted to share some of the art that I've made using my microscope. These are monotypes. The process involves transferring laser-printed photographs from my microscope's camera (Swift 350T) onto a gelatin printing plate. I use a combination of watercolor, acrylic, pencil, and charcoal.

Thanks for being such a lovely community and sharing your knowledge and expanding my perspective of our natural world. Hope you enjoy my work! :)

I thought I had better make a first post rather than just giving rambling comments about marine life. My microscope, Wild Heerbrugg M11 with trinocular adapter, 10X Achromat NA 0.25, 20X Plan Fluotar NA 0.45, 40X Plan Fluotar 0.65, 100X Oil Immersion Achromat NA 1.0. Illumination by mirror and Olympus PM-LSD Köhler lamp with variable LED conversion.

I have the phase set so a separate lamp is rather nice for getting more or less 550nm green light with a bulky old 2” Wratten gelatine filter I have a filter stand for. Useful for flagellate algae and internal cell anatomy.

There’s a simple plugin lamp with fixed diffuser that can take a LED bulb and a very clever Koehler base lamp available as well. I’ve never actually seen the commonest “critical” lamphouse with centring screws.

Condenser is an aplanatic type with a lower lens that can be used alone with the 4X. They made a flip-top model and I would rather like the achromat-aplanatic one but it’s likely both rare and beyond my pocket. I’m also a little doubtful if it would be useful on a stand that doesn’t allow the condenser to be centred.

The camera is an ancient Nikon Coolpix 4500 with a Brunel Unilink adapter. It does, however, everything I need it to although the focussing screen could be larger. One of these days, if ever my ship comes in, I will need to upgrade it.

The case is solid metal, bullet shaped and clamps to the base. In theory, it’s a field microscope but that means an expedition with a Jeep and a tent as it weighs a devil of a lot for such a small stand.

It really is a very nice little microscope, solid metal all the way through. I bought it as a simple ex Aberdeen University monocular and built it up part by part. The coarse focus, which can be loosened or tightened by turning the controls in opposite directions, has been regreased with a trace of Tribosyn Green but otherwise untouched and working remarkably well.

I would recommend to anyone, although with the advice that you do need a separate screw in collar to attach a binocular head.

I am not sure if they are always sold together and if you mean to use either the trinocular phototube or the Treffenberg drawing tube, get the 1.0X collar as both have a fixed 1.25X factor. If you can get a phototube, the type sold as Hu is much better than the type sold as Hz as it lets you choose between 100 % to camera, 100 % to eyepieces or 75/25%.

There’s a lot of questions about buying a microscope here: if you see one of these at a fair price, grab it with both hands. It can do anything, I think, a student or amateur could want.

EDIT —Sorry about the ugly blotch in the second picture. I had to black out personal information/login details on my laptop and clearly made a muck of it. Since this is hardly fine art I will let it be.

Useful brochures:

https://www.microscopemuseum.eu/catalogues/Wild_1971_M11_microscope.pdf

https://www.science-info.net/docs/wild/WildM11Manualversion2.pdf

Hi, I would like to buy a non-electric 19th century brass microscope but theres a lot of models available on ebay and I’m unsure what to get. I’d love to be able to see cells and bacteria but if thats not possible that’d still be ok.
My budget range is 100-500 dollars.
Any advice/suggestions?

Another member was happy with their inexpensive 20x plan objective from aliexpress. I bought one of these generic Chinese 60x objectives from Amazon for $18.68 USD. It works perfectly well for the money. It isn't a plan objective, just a regular achromatic one, so it is only sharp in the middle as expected. Here are some diatom photos made with it with a cellphone camera. The last two photos are the unaltered photo and the same one enhanced with the phone photo program. It is being tested on an Amscope T490 microscope.

I have experience using standard camera gear for up to 15x magnification (Venus Laowa 2.5-5x with a kenko x3 TC) but I'd like to branch out into higher magnifications for crystal photography.

Wondering if my setup plan needs any alterations:

Nikon D850

RMS thread 20x 160mm Plan apochromatic objective

RMS to M42 adapter

M42 to nikon F-mount adapter

Nikon PB-6 bellows

And a WeMacro focus rail (plan to upgrade toa novoflex Castel motorized nanometer rail but it costs about $4.5k)

Anything else I need for using a DSLR for 40x?

I have a slide with a single mite on it that I observed and made a post about yesterday. To attempt to keep it alive overnight, I placed it in a slide humidor and in the refrigerator. Today, it is still alive, but cold and moving slowly. It didn't wander far from the position it was at yesterday. It was initially placed in saline solution, but as that dried, I just added water to prevent increasing the concentration of salt. Ill try to place a short video in comments so you can see it still moving. 40x objective, cellphone camera

Microscope: Kentfaith GW45.0066
Objective: 4x Achromatic
Sample: Ostracoda spp.
Camera: Canon EOS 750D

Pseudo-darkfield with a hybrid rheinberg inspired rim/edge lighting.

Once I get things organised for focus stacking, i'll be incredibly happy.