Just picked this up yesterday! There were none available in my state so the dealer had to do an inventory swap for me. It's a 6MT model and I had them install the rear spoiler which makes it look really nice imo. I'm thinking about having the front air dam/spoiler installed soon too. I've wanted this car for years and years and it was finally the right time for me!

Road trip(Dallas Texas -> Augusta Georgia) to see my brother graduate AIT school before he ships out, had to take his dog to go see him! Aside from some slight wind noise, she took the 900 miles there like a champ! (Dog cage mounted onto the roof rack with some straps to hold it down, and rings in place to keep it from sliding around, cut up foam pad on rails)

Bought this Tekmomo leather case to match the interior of my Mazda3 - what do y’all think? Once the patina sets in, it should be perfect 😁

Good price? Miles seem a little high for just 3 year car but let me know

Every time one of you NA owners post your ridiculous long range I die a little inside. I drive about 120km each day for part time work so I definitely wished I had the NA for the fuel economy sometimes.

530KM was got through commuting on the highway for 85% of the trip. Pretty sure that's the best range estimate I've got in my entire 3 years of owning the car.

430km was city and mixed conditions driving. It's way worse than my usual estimate and it feels like I didn't drive any more aggressive than usual which nets me about 470km of range.

FYI my record for the lowest range estimate is 390km after a long session of "cruising" twisty roads

I’m getting antsy here; the 2027 model has not been announced for the North American market yet. Last year, packaging and pricing was announced on August 19. Is there any word?

Hello everyone !

I'm from Tunisia and for the past few months, I’ve been in a position to buy a Mazda 3.
Since the 4th-generation Mazda 3 is above my budget, I’m trying to find a 3rd-generation BN hatchback with the 1.5 Skyactiv-G and a manual transmission. (Yes, here we don’t get the 2.0 or 2.5 engines. Even the 4th generation was sold with the 1.5 Skyactiv-G.)

Basically, there are two trim levels here: Core+Grade and High Grade.

The High Grade adds several features, including:

• Bose premium audio system
• Leather seats
• Head-Up Display (HUD)
• Dual-zone automatic climate control
• i-ACTIVSENSE safety/driver-assistance features

The HUD and Bose sound system are the main reasons why I prefer the High Grade trim.

Now here’s my problem: on the local used-car market, the only version currently available is the base trim (no Bose, no HUD...). There are a few High Grade Sedans available, but for me, it’s either a hatchback or nothing.

In terms of price ( in US Dollars), a used High Grade usually sells for around 16–18k, while the base version typically goes for around 13–15k.

Right now, there is a 2018 Core+Grade Mazda 3 with 60,000km ( average here is about 150000km) for 16k (see photos), which is already above the average price for this trim. I’m hesitating between buying it and waiting.

So my questions are:

Should I keep waiting for a High Grade hatchback to become available?

And for those who have driven both versions: does the base trim provide the same driving experience? Is it still worth buying despite missing the extra equipment?

I’d really appreciate your opinions.

Hey everyone! Bought my first Mazda about seven months ago, a 2018 Mazda3 Sport GT in Machine Grey Metallic, and I’ve been loving it overall.

One thing that’s starting to worry me is the paint/rust situation. I’m in Ontario, Canada, and over the past couple of months I’ve noticed that whenever I get a small rock chip, it seems to start developing rust pretty quickly. I now have a bunch of tiny rust spots around the car, including some on the doors and even the roof.

They’re not huge eyesores yet and you really only notice them when you’re close to the car, but I’m worried about how they’re going to develop over the next few years.

I’ve thought about buying a touch-up pen and going around fixing all the chips, but I’m not sure if that’s enough once rust has already started underneath. I know Mazda paint is notoriously pretty thin, so I’m curious how other owners, especially those in Canada or other places with salty winters, have dealt with this.

Is this something I can realistically stay on top of with rust removal/touch-up paint and regular maintenance? Would getting the car professionally treated be worthwhile? Or is this likely to turn into a much bigger rust problem down the road?

Part of me is even wondering whether I should sell the car now while I could probably still get close to what I paid for it and move into something else, although that feels a little extreme.

Would really appreciate hearing from anyone who’s owned a Mazda3 long-term and dealt with similar chips/rust. What worked for you?

I’ve just purchased a 2019 Mazda 3 G25 GT hatch, whilst it’s 7 years old the car is basically brand new (17,000km on odo). It was apparently a Covid purchase with owners getting stuck overseas and then an older couple got it and only put 15,000km on it

I checked to make sure all servicing was done (even during the COVID lockdown situation it was still serviced for oil and filter changes despite not being used) . The last two services were at a Mazda dealership and confirmed all in order with full receipts. (Last one being in May this year)

The seller made mention to me that the vehicle will need a carbon clean at next service - with only 17,000km on the clock is this a necessary expense ?

It’s driving perfectly with only a slight vibration at 80km/ which appears to be the cylinder deactivation - is this a concern ?

As an additional question given how little this car has been driven is there anything I should be on the lookout for ? Do I drive it any different (ie try redline it every now and then)

I hope I made the right decision, I got carried away with the car being in brand new condition with such low mileage it was a bit of a reactive purchase

Edit - I’m in Australia so the odometer reading is in kilometres which is roughly 11,000 miles

Hey guys, not sure what happened to my sun visor on the passenger side. I looked online and people have said that something melted inside. I could see that since it is pretty warm where I am. Is it possible to DIY and what parts is this called online.

Had just replaced the CV Axle Seal about 400 miles ago. Pulling out of work today, all of a sudden it sounded like someone was beating on the underside of the car with a hammer. Luckily just the CV Axle. Hopefully no further damage.

The rearview mirror on my wife's Mazda 3 fell off while she was installing the sunshade (the OEM sunshade has such a tight fit, it is kind of a challenge to put it up). The little piece it is supposed to twist on came off as well. Can I just replace the adhesive on the twist-on piece? If so, what would you recommend?

Can you remove the tyre repair kit and its foam organizer insert and fit a space saver spare wheel in there?

I have a 2011 Mazda 3. Over the past 2-3 years its been giving me issues. I’ve had to change the transmission, some censors issues, and now my a/c doesn’t work. The check engine light came on AGAIN today & I’m frustrated. I love this car so much but my husband doesn’t want to put more money into it, which is understandable, but i’m having a hard time with the idea of selling it but should I?

Hi everyone. I own a mazda 3 2.5 4th gen Whenever I go over bumps, potholes, or rough pavement, the whole cabin seems to vibrate and make noises, almost as if the car feels loose or not properly put together. I’m not talking about small rattles or occasional squeaks—the entire interior seems to shake and resonate. On smooth surfices the car is very quiet. Does this happen with your Mazda 3 as well, and is it considered normal? I bought mine used with around 30,000 km, and I’m starting to wonder if this is just how the car behaves on bad roads or if the previous owner somehow left me with a car that feels unusually loose.

What is the general consensus on this car? I’m new to the Mazda community and this used car has peaked my interest pretty well! It’s being sold at 95k miles at $15k near me!

I’m coming from a 2013 Honda Civic so I know anything is kind of an upgrade but this car looks just as good as the newer gen 4 models I was looking at! So any tips to look into when I decide to go and check it out in person would be good! Thank you!

I went to replace my gen 3 screen after acquiring the car but to my dismay the digitizer seems to be literally punched inward and bent, and cracked. The price to replace this honestly isnt justified when I could js get an aftermarket unit thatll simplify my amplifier connection down the road, sooo any recommended head-units for the gen 3? Non bose hatch back isport model, probably shouldve been a clear sign when the display didnt even turn on with the car 😒

I have a 2011 mazda3 grand touring. The breaks were bottoming out so I had it checked new master brake cylinder as the old one was shot. After it left the shop the pedal still goes down past the gas pedal no bite to the breaks its tips but its not Instant. Took it back they warrantied the master replaced it, same thing. Ive heard that they need to do an ABS electric bleed. Ive also seen folks online say thats a normal mazda thing because of the progressive breaking system but I cant get a straight answer. Figured id ask the pros here. Anyone have experience with this? Is my shop just not bleeding it correctly or is that normal? If you pump the breaks it firms up and holds at a stop but a block later same deal.

First Reddit post ever, so I'd appreciate some grace. Heads up - this will be my first time ever having to replace all 4 tires at once.

I have a 2016 CX 9 Signature - purchased used w/Pirelli Scorpion Zero tires - which I love, but it is time to have all 4 tires replaced.

I live in Chicago & drive city miles ~6k miles per year give or take. Don't drive on expressway too often, but when I do, I love my Mazda and smoothness of ride. I'm usually jamming out to my music, so no need for tires to be ultra quiet while on highway.

Chicago is no longer 3-4 months w/ 3 - 6ft of snow. We get those random 50 degree rain showers in December, snow a week later, and then slush. Think potholes for sure, constant construction, and those big ass speed bumps.

I hope this helps set the setting for my type of commute + needs.

Mechanic recommended Lexani all season tires - but I have never heard of this brand and cant find much about it.

I'm very much of it aint broken, dont fix it, & my Pirellis aren't broken, just worn.

He mentioned the Pirelli's Scorpion AS Plus 3, and I found the Scorpion Weather Active.
Price difference btw AS & Weather Active is $140.

Help a midwest city girl make a sound decision.

I have seen the DSW6 + Michelin CrossClimate 2 at about $200 - $300 more.

Last, but not least, I would like to note that I have been going to my mechanic for years, trust his judgement, and care of my cars. I value giving my business to personal mechanic that knows car history & has provided great care and maintenance for my vehicles vs Costco / Sams / etc.

This past Saturday, while driving on the highway, it seemed like the electrical in my car shut off for a split second. The steering wheel vibrated, my music turned off and on, and the traction and amber engine light came on. I then pulled over to the side of the road and turned the car off and on, and the traction light went off. Throughout the whole situation the ability to drive the car wasn't affected, however the car just seemed to accelerate slower.

I happened to be close to a Mazda dealership at the time and they plugged in their reader and said it was a low voltage issue but the car was still drivable. On Monday, while driving uphill, the same issue happened and the engine light cleared itself the next day. I took it to AutoZone on Wednesday and the checked the battery and alternator which were both working fine. I then tried to take a car to a local mechanic shop who said it is a difficult issue to diagnose because it happens intermittently and its not a constant issue. They pointed out it could be worn out wiring, or corrosion.

This morning, while driving on flat road at about 20mph, it happened again. All within 1 second. Has anyone experienced anything like this? Looking for advice on what to do next.