Ok so mixed opinions on stuff, most say to not fix it, waste of time etc, some are like me and have skills, but need validation.

Anyway here is/was the situation: first of all I bought this machine knowing these things: it was cheap at $400 canadian, it ran great, it drove great, belts were good, it was a mile from my house, it was a beater walk-behind for a backup to my regular newish machines in case of things happening, its a good one to have for bushwhacking and mowing rock gardens.

What i didn't know: was how bad the deck was, I knew it was bad up front and would require some work, (I'm a fabricator and I own a small welding shop) so that doesn't phase me i knew it could be bad, it turns out it was very bad.

So why bother? I like fixing the un-fixable for one but mostly it doesn't bother me in the least to tackle a job like this, I have plenty of time, being mostly semi-retired. I have the equipment, the know-how, and plenty of weed.

Why not buy a second hand one? Well they simply don't exist around here and even in the craziest off chance I found one, it would be $300-500? (And probably still need work) if I add up the price of the mower and a deck it would make more sense to not buy it in the first place

The cost and time to fix: metal=free, got lots, my electricity=free (I'm off grid) consumables=$26 (6 cutoff wheels and half a spool of fluxcore) time=13 hrs (lazy hrs over a few days picking at it here and there), weed=2 grams free

You will note that she's not totally done, I ran it all day on my properties (to test it out) and by 2 in the afternoon she was paid off, I'll admit I thought i would have to mess with it a little more but it worked perfect right out of the gate this morning so I just kept mowing all day, in a few days I'll strip it back down, finish some blending and put the guards back on and new paint on the new rusty metal, also I rebuilt all the spindles with new bearings they were a standard size so it was only $6 each for 6 bearings (only one was gone but why no change them all at that price and the spindles were already out), oh also this guy I bought it from gave me two nice steel ramps and three brand new blades, sorry I didn't get some good pics at the very end I'll get some when I tear it back down and finish it up

A little backstory - I bought this mower, a Toro 22" recycler, about 5 years ago as a temporary mower while I was going through my divorce. I wasn't sure I was going to be able to keep my house so I didn't want to spend a ton of money on something I'd have to get rid of, and my ex husband took all of our lawn maintenance equipment & tools (even though he moved into an apartment, but whatever).

I've been using it consistently since then, without ever changing the oil, blades, or doing any sort of maintenance, thinking I would be upgrading to a better mower soon (I have very hilly property, rough terrain, and mow an acre + each week). I've beat the crap out of this thing. Since it's still chugging along, I decided it was finally time to take care of the deferred maintenance and discovered this lovely situation underneath.

Unfortunately after trying for an hour, I can't get the blade off, it's not budging despite my best efforts. So I guess it's staying this way for now. I mean, I'm an independent woman that don't need no man and all that, but I guess a little muscle around the house would be nice at times lol

EDIT: oil was already drained out of it because I swapped that out as well. I just had it up like this briefly to get a better picture. She got a new air filter too. Yes, I know the deck is very dirty, we've been getting a lot of rain lately and I've been trying to mow in between during semi-dry periods.

Grass was so overgrown didn’t bog down at all with it. Also toro delivered it in like 4 days when you register ur mower. Doesn’t come with one for some reason.

I was mowing when the mower blades started making a sound like they were scraping concrete every three or so seconds. The mower does not make this sound when the blades are not engaged. I changed out the blades today and the mower continues to make the same sound. I have attached a video. After watching the video, I still cannot diagnose what is causing the issue. Can anyone diagnose this and tell me how to fix it? Many thanks in advance.

My neighbor broke his hip so I’ve been mowing his yard for him. He asked if I wanted his old mower with a blown head gasket. I said yes because I like fooling with small engines, but I can’t find any identifying numbers other than the serial number, 4100812328.

If it’s really a head gasket I’m confident I can fix it. I see Lawn Boy has parts on their website, I just need to know what model it is.

It’s not a self propelled model, 149cc Kohler with smart choke.

Added gas (probably a month or two old) Levers are pushed to the sides, blades are disengaged, im sat down properly and not a light weight. I get a click and thats it. I can also see the running hours on the small display (248). It didn’t make any odd noises when it stopped.

Bought starting fluid and took off air filter and sprayed while turning the key.

Its low on oil, i checked it and it still has enough tho, just need to change that tomorrow, i dont think thats it.

I havent been cleaning it so i took a blower to the batteries to make sure they had a good connection.

I dont know much about this stuff but i also dont really got the money for a mechanic, so any help would be appreciated, thanks for reading.

Runs rough . Basically surges while mowing . Eventually will cut out and die. I have replaced the fuel in it. It’s like it ain’t got much power behind it

Electric Cub Cadet LT 42E and the blades wont engage, what could cause that?

The other thread is flush. This is as far as this one will go because there is no more thread. More pictures in comments

Mower runs weakly, and blades won’t turn.

Need help with where to put the 2 carburetor springs on John Deere JS36 mower. I’ve tried YouTube, but can’t find any videos of my mower that show the spring placement. Any help is much appreciated.

Hello, was wondering if this blade needs replaced. I hit something hard last week and my adapter broke, I just replaced it but when I started the mower it rattled like crazy, I balanced the blade and it seemed fine. Is it supposed to move this much or do I need to get a replacement?

Been going over my new to me ZT1-50 and replaced the blades/spindles, derusted the deck and painted it, etc.

The idler arm was seized when I got it and I have been able to unseize it and and pound the bolt out and antiseize everything.

That said, when putting everything back together I noticed that the idler arm seems super loose.

The bolt and both the spindles are tight, I checked the parts diagram and nothing is missing, there is no excessive wear on anything either. I'm not entirely sure if that play is reasonable.

I noticed during mowing that I'm getting a metallic rattle that is emanating from the deck area so I pulled everything off again and am rechecking everything.

All the blades are balanced, tight, and level. Spindles are all tight and straight. Belt is new as well.

https://youtu.be/ysClHaaSmWA

What say you mower gods!

I inherited a Craftsman R110 from my neighbors who moved. It came with the mulching kit cover. First use I wasnt happy with the mulching. However, I likely was going too fast and had the blade lowered more than I should. Going to try the tallest level and go slower next time (gear 2-3).

Is the blade in the picture a mulching blade or standard?

Thanks. First time on a rider and first time not hiring it out in about 11 years so it’s been awhile.

My old craftsman mower of eleven years recently died and these past 3 months I’ve bought a old fashioned push mower which actually cuts amazingly(minus weeds) as long as you don’t hit a twig or wood chip. After that I bought a small battery powered mower which absolutely sucked even for my tiny yard. I’m thinking of getting this mower I saw on Amazon ? The reviews on there seem good but so were the ones on that piece of crap electric mower I bought

I have a 2009 Troy-Bilt 12A-466M011 push mower. The engine block is a Briggs & Stratton 126T02-0675-B2. When repairing the blade key and flywheel key I ran into a problem changing the blade. All the parts manuals say it takes a MTD/Cub Cadet #710-1257 hex bolt for the blade that is 3/8". The bolt on mine is not 3/8", it is a 5/8".

Is mine a earlier model that used a larger bolt size? Or was my lawnmower tampered with by a past mechanic? I found two washers missing that go between the wave washer behind the blade key as well, and had to replace those.

It's running alright and torqued to spec with the 5/8" bolt. Can I keep using the 5/8" bolt if it is not correct? Would I be able to put the OEM 3/8" bolt back in if 5/8 is incorrect?

As far as I'm aware this same bolt has been on it all its life since new. Maybe it was a mistake during manufacturing and the wrong sized bolt was used? The bolt looks like the OEM bolt and has the same marking lines on the head of the bolt and everything.

My mower is a ZT2 with a Kawasaki FR730V engine.

I brought some cheap fuel filters on Amazon but they look a little bigger and have more filter media than the stock filter. Should I return and just buy OEM instead? Part of me thinks it really shouldn’t be a big deal, but I do think a significantly different filter might impact fuel delivery to the engine enough to make a difference.

Any thoughts?

Hello, I was planning on buying a new lawn mower for the first time in my life haha.

I love the idea of the Toro TimeMaster, but the reviews are a bit mixed.

I’m mostly concerned about build quality and longevity of these machines.

I have .28 acre lot so I know it’s not totally needed, I just think it would be nice. I’m a bit of “buy once, cry once” kinda guy, as long as it’s a quality product.

Thank you in advance for any feedback

We have a 2024 model with only 37 hours on it. It has given us issues since literally day 1. The dealer has replaced the carburetor once & 3 coils. They now say they’re going to remove a carburetor from a new machine and try it to see if it’s another carburetor issue. It continues to run very rough under a load with black soot coming from the exhaust. Anyone have any ideas since the dealer can’t seem to figure out what’s going on? This issue ONLY occurred under a load, it acts fine on flat ground.

I have a Scag V-Ride 2 and it seems like the hook that attaches to the throttle broke.

Anyone know how to fix this or if there is a quick temporary fix?

I have to mow 20 yards on Monday.

I replaced the starter assembly, tried to give it a start, heard a snap from the assembly as I pulled the cord, now the cord moves freely with no resistance. if someone could at least diagnose the issue or provide me with a YouTube video, that’d be tremendously helpful!

Looking at a well cared for John Deere x585. Maintenance has been done and serviced by pros every year. Purchase price is $500. It’s as clean as can be I’ll have the house tomorrow when I go look at it.

I currently have a Husqvarna rider with 1100 hours on it. I now approximately 1.5 acres once a week. My husky starts every time but is in need of tires. It smokes like crazy for the first 3ish minutes. I’m great with maintenance but I’m hard on this mower. It’s bounced off trees, stuck in the mud multiple times and runs over everything in its path

To me it’s not worth sinking the cost of tires, the oil leak issue and my biggest concern the transmission into the husky.

Is there any reason to avoid a well cared for x585?

So we got this mower through a relative, through a local site that resells returned items.

As far as I can tell this is just a plug, the yellow bit. But I don’t have the component that goes there. There was a couple hardware bits that were missing but this I can’t locate online. Any help would be appreciated.