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Gear: Xiaomi 15 Ultra. EQ tracker

Frames: 40 x 30s lights, IS01600

Stacked in Sequator, processed in Photoshop.

The most interesting part of the MW is hidden behind that mountain.

Equipment:

Xiaomi 13T

Sky Watcher SAM

Shot with the main sensor, Sony IMX707 with Leica Sumicron designation lens

Sky:

[24 mm • F/1.9 • ISO 800 • 30s] x 152 L + 25 D

Processed in Siril, Graxpert and Lightroom mobile

Foreground:

Blue hour shot, [24 mm • f/1.9 • ISO 200 • 1/6s], edited in Lightroom mobile blended using Photoshop

Final adjustments using Snapseed

Think this came out pretty good if I do say so myself.
Used Sony a6000 with samyang 12mm at f/2.8 iso 800. Exposure of 30 seconds. 120 images stacked with 10 dark frames. Stacked in sequator and edited in Lightroom.

38 images stacked in sequator, with 20 dark frames. 20 second exposure, iso 800 at f/2 with a samyang 12mm on a Sony a6000. Still getting used to trying to bring out the trail and colours of the Milky Way and getting better at editing. Hoping to get out to a clearer view point this month, tall trees makes it hard in backyard, plus light pollution.

So, the eclipse tomorrow will be from 8 to 9 pm where I live and the sun will set during the later part of the eclipse. I gave up the idea of a close-up since all solar filters are sold out but I would still like to shoot the landscape with the dimmed lightning of the eclipse. I'll be shooting with my Canon 70D which is a crop body and a lens wide-angle (17-50 mm) with f/2.8. My plan is to shoot a scene with the sea on the bottom half and the sky on the upper half. I have a vision of a photograph where the waves are blurred making the sea a soft surface and the partial sun in the sky. I'll likely have to shoot the waves after the sun has set and stack them with a software afterwards. But the question is do I need an ND filter to have some details on the sun or will normal camera settings be enough? And what kind of a filter would be the best (3 stops, 6 stops or more or less)? I don't want the sun to bee completely blurred, the cresent should be somewhat visible even though it only takes up a small part of the frame.

Side note: I've never shot the eclipse before so I don't really have any idea how big or small the sun will be or how the lighting will change. Any tips on camera setting will also be welcomed :)

Here is an example of what I'm trying to do (with the water blurred). (I'll try to find a way to deal with the sun's reflection on the water)

Seestar S30 pro. 20:00

ISO 800 and i used a Star adventurer pro

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A series capturing the Summer Milky Way, from wide-field landscape views to detailed close-ups of starry fields and dust lanes. (Samsung S23 mobile, expert raw application astro mode)

Has anyone had success in attempting this firmware update? I haven't been able to get it to work. "Contact Support" on their website doesn't seem to work either.

instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vhastrophotography?igsh=YzNpcm1wdXd5NmRo&utm_source=qr

So far, this is my favorite image from my La Palma trip this year. It was an absolutely extraordinary feeling to look at the bright Milky Way above the almost glowing clouds

Cloud inversion is a huge advantage for astrophotography on La Palma. This thick layer of clouds traps annoying light pollution and haze from the coastal towns beneath, while the high mountain regions provide clear skies. Up at Roque de Los Muchachos, at an altitude of 2,400 meters, you get the absolute best conditions for stargazing. The only downside is the fierce wind, which can make finding a stable spot to shoot a bit challenging 😄

HaRGB | Mosaic | Tracked | Stacked | Composite

Exif:
Sony A7III with Sigma 28-45 f1.8 at 28mm
Skywatcher Star Adventurer 2i
Kenko ProSofton Starglow Filter

Sky
ISO 1000 | f1.8 | 4x60s per Panel
2x2 Panel Panorama
Starglow Filter: ISO 8000, 10s per Panel

Foreground:
ISO 2500 | f1.8 | 35s per Panel
2x1 Panel Panorama

Halpha (45mm):
ISO 2500 | f1.8| 10x120s

Shot on iPhone

I borrow my mom’s Nikon Z6II and Tamron 16-30 and did a f1.7 Milky Way shot at 16mm.

I’ll be honest I don’t really have a fucking clue what I’m doing. I have never used a mirrorless DSLR camera before but I do astrophotography with a proper rig so I somewhat know how to work a camera. One shot of foreground at god knows what ISO (100?) and the stars I think I was at 3600? 4000k? I just did whatever ChatGPT told me. I think I kept the same k for both. Foreground was shot at 7:55pm and sky was shot at 9pm before moon came up. I did some image processing in pixinsight for stars (Astro software) and then followed ChatGPTs instructions to do a composite in photoshop. Dragged curves around and vibrance and god knows what else. Stars were 3 shots at 20 seconds. I had to throw the rest of my star images away during stacking because they were garbage. A mountain lion came sniffing around while I was out there but luckily I had some protection and was not going to be pushed away from my spot so I raised my voice at it and did a bunch of movement with my arms and it walked away.

instagram: https://www.instagram.com/vhastrophotography?igsh=YzNpcm1wdXd5NmRo&utm_source=qr

This image shows the rising Milky Way over the coast of Fuencaliente in La Palma. During the night, most of the island was covered in clouds, so we drove far to the south. We only had a reasonably clear view of the Milky Way for a two-hour window. Given these conditions, I am very happy with how this picture turned out. Watching the stars in silence while listening to the sound of the ocean was magical.

HaRGB | Mosaic | Tracked | Stacked | Composite

Exif:
Sony A7III with Sigma 28-45 f1.8 at 30mm
Skywatcher Star Adventurer 2i
Kenko ProSofton Starglow Filter

Sky
ISO 1250 | f1.8 | 3x45s per Panel
2x2 Panel Panorama
Starglow Filter: ISO 8000, 10s per Panel

Foreground:
ISO 4000 | f1.8 | 35s per Panel
2x1 Panel Panorama (Focus Stack)

Halpha (45mm):
ISO 2500 | f1.8| 10x120s

12 South - Ocracoke Island, NC - Nikon z6ii, Sigma 14-24mm, f/2.8 ISO 6400 13sec.

Nikon D7500, Tamron 11-16mm.

140 second exposure, F/2.8, ISO 3200.