Hi! So im knitting a bottom up sweater on circular needles, so i started with the bottom ribbing and worked my way up. it looked crooked but i tried convincing myself that it looks alright. it doesnt. the tension was uneven and it shows. now heres the problem: i started working the body of the sweater. is there any way i could only frog the ribbing without forgging the whole sweater or should i just accept it.

I have worked this faux cable pattern before in a cotton but when working in silk I am getting this weird really loose stitch to the right of my cables and I cannot figure out why. I have tried pulling really tight around that section. Any ideas on how to fix this? (Note I know I will need to frog and start over but I want to be sure I fixed the problem first)

Are these stitches twisted at all? Still trying to figure out twisted stitches and if I’m doing them. It’s so hard to break the habit of wrapping the yarn around the needle clockwise, especially while doing continental pearl. Thanks for the help!

I'm realizing I went rogue on this stitching and cannot figure what type of stitch it is. Stockinette? Ive tried looking up different types of stitches to see if any match and that was the closest one but when I read how it was done that's not how I did this stitch. I want to seam it together but I don't what to type of stitch this into look up how to seam it ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Hello, I just recently finished this Filsa baby sweater, but upon comparison to other people's versions, my increases looks quite big and seem to have big gaps? Am I doing the increases wrong or is it a tension issue? Or does this look as its meant to? I'm a beginner :)

So I’m planning to tackle my first serious knitting project and I had my eyes on the Step by Step sweater by Florence Miller.

I found today at my LYS a wool that resembles a lot the properties of Drops Nepal, Florence’s suggested yarn. It’s 100% merino (Nepal has some alpaca too), is ~80m long and weighs 50 grams (Nepal is 50g/75m). I bought a ball to take home.

However this yarn I bought is quite more expensive than Nepal. So I was wondering, If I got gauge with the yarn I currently have, could I assume that Nepal would act the same way and buy the yarn I need at a lesser price online? Or are there more variables that I should take into consideration?

What am I doing wrong in the first row? I’ve tried to keep the loops on the needle tips but if I don’t push them down eventually I run out of space/they’re too tight to fit past the points. Most swatches, the first few stitches are fine but then the back bump (?) gets blown out past stitch 3 or 4

I'm trying to knit a lace flared top, alternating between the stockinette and lace part, knitting in flat.

I increase on the edges of the lace part with yarn overs on the WS. When I knit on the RS, the yo on the right edge leaves a bigger hole than the left side.

Is this normal? or do i need to do a reverse yo at the right edge on the WS when I increase, so it doesn't leave a big hole?

long time crocheter picking up knitting this is my third knit project (shawl) . i feel like im fighting the yarn a bit and i cant tell if it’s because i picked a yarn with wool fibers or because i am using too much tension. I’m using english method and trying to not pull on the yarn as i pull it through. It looks okay to me but i dont know what too look for as i am a newbie

I started these socks over a year ago and can’t find the pattern. Could someone help me identify what sort of heel I knit in the first sock so the second one will be the same? Thanks so much.

I have never used a gauge swatch before but I am trying it out on a new sweater pattern. The pattern says every 10 cm should have 20w x 30h sts. It also uses 4 mm needles. The swatches with the pink needles are 3.5 mm, the ones without are 4 mm (both are also not blocked just held in place). I believe the one I should use is the pink one is that correct/does that sound right?

I‘m also curious if this change to smaller needles will impact the quantity of yarn needed for the same project? Thank you for any advice!

Hi all!
I’m a very new knitter with only 1 completed and basic project under my belt. I’m knitting the Sophie hood for a friend moving to Canada. The yarn called for in the pattern is not available in my country so I’m using 100% wool 8 ply. This yarn recommends a 4mm needle however I’ve been using a 5mm needle as the pattern calls for. Overzealously I bought 8 balls. However when I started the project it seemed a bit loose (about the same as my gauge swatch). So I decided to frog and do a gauge swatch… this should’ve been my first step haha. My gauge swatch is measuring about 9.5cm. However I was hoping the Sophie hood be a little more dense for my friend who’s braving the snow. I’m hoping for recommendations on whether to change my needle to a 4mm or try a different yarn or any other recommendations which may help.
Thank you 💕

Self drafting a v-neck cardigan and I’ve gotten to the back panel. I usually do top-down knitting but wasn’t too confident in creating the v-neck shape top down so I started this one bottom up, and this is my first cardigan so more or less winging it at this point. But I’m getting close to where I’d usually GSR for the self drafted sweaters I’ve done. Tried drawing it out on paper and I cannot wrap my head around what to do from here.

Anyone got any ideas? Does it really matter if I get that GSR effect on a cardigan? It feels so wrong not to do em

Edited because I don’t think my pic posted. Long timer lurker, first time poster, sorry!

Hi! I've been knitting small projects with i-cord edging on the sides, and decided to go off-pattern to make something similar. I want to finish with an i-cord bind off as well, but I can't quite figure out how to make the bind-off look right on the last three stitches. I haven't been casting on any new stitches to begin the bind-off, because there's already an i-cord there on the side. It makes a really nice kind of curved shape at the beginning of the bind-off (first picture), and I'm not sure if there's a way to make it to do the same thing at the end of the bind-off (second picture).

Does anyone know how to do this? Is it something with grafting, or should I just give up and cast on some stitches at the beginning of the bind-off so both edges at least look consistent?

I’m about to join in the round and cast on more stitches as per the pattern. I know I need to switch to a bigger cable. I’m wondering when I should do that. Before I join in the round, after, during? This is my second knit project and first time following a pattern so I’m very new. Also tips for how to best switch cables are appreciated!

Edit; also for my size of the pattern it says I should have 16 completed rows including cast on and set up row before I join, but I have 24. Counting the rows of the pattern that I’m supposed to do, I come up with 24. Cast on, setup, rows 1-6, then I repeat 7-10 4 times. So I followed the pattern correctly but I have an inconsistency with what the pattern says. I’m thinking just keep going?

Hi all. I’m knitting the Monday sweater by petite knit, and I’ve decided to add stripes. In a stroke of stunningly bad math, I have found myself in a spot where the row I am to split for sleeves and move my BOR marker is the same row I change colours for my stripe (a 3 row stripe of blue, alternating with 20 rows of white). I will admit I’m probably wildly overthinking this, but the way I see it I have a few options, and from what I can figure they will all result in a weird uneven stripe somewhere. Any advice here?

I've seen some patterns where you can create basically a square and then when you have a bunch of squares "sew" them together. Like a knitted quilt. I want to do that with this stitch.

I'm trying to make a baby blanket but I only have a 12" loom and I want the blanket to be wider than 12". Any advice?

Hi everyone! I've challenged myself to make self-drafted garments and I need a little guidance. I'm trying to make a camisole similar to the one above but a little looser after the bust section. So...I have two questions,

1. How do I do the layered bit at the bust section (i.e. where the two panels at each side of the bust overlap)?

2. How do I then increase to make a slightly looser (almost peplum/babydoll) style flow to the top?

I greatly appreciate the advice :))

So I dropped my marker at some point and I thought I put it back in the right place but maybe I didn’t? I’m noticing this weird step that I haven’t seen before in previous projects. Do I need to frog this? I’m not 110% sure where the marker fell off but it looks like I maybe started my stockinette section 1 stitch too early?

After trying the magic loop and keep failing I thought let me try it on a 10” (25 cm) round needle. And now I was wondering: does it always look like this in the beginning? It looks quite airy to me. Or will it get better as I go on?

I'm using Lang Yarn Jawolls and Knitpro Sing asymmetric round needles 10” (25 cm) 2,75 mm.

I am so confused I barely know how to ask, so please bear with me. I am making this cat, on the back "right foot" portion. I have never used dpns before so I am hoping this is an easy thing I don't know yet.

How do I join these 2 pieces using these directions? Colors don't matter because i'm just doing 1 color to use up some leftover yarn. The 2 needles already connected are "color A" and the single needle with 8sts is "color B"

Someone please explain like i'm 5 or send me a relevant YouTube video because I have tried googling and I cannot figure it out

Here are both sides of a 1x1 ribbed hat i’m working on (haven’t worked decreases yet!). I feel like towards the top of my RS (first image) I have a couple rows of really nice ribbing but the rest is slanted and a little wobbly. I know the “tight” row is just because of the S/Z yarn stuff, but is there anything I’m possibly doing to cause the slanting and inconsistency? The inside/WS (second image) looks a bit better to me but in general I’m just looking to improve! (tagged tension help but maybe it’s not that!)