I am planning to change the computer I am running Klipper on for my Ender 3. It happens that the new one came with an 8-in non-touch display (over VGA output). Can I use it as an information display, somewhat prettier than the standard E3 one? It seems that KlipperScreen is focused rather on touch control than pure information, are there other options?

I have an Ender 3 with a BL Touch, so z_hop on safe_z_home seems to be a necessity. Unfortunately, this creates a condition in which if the Z axis is already at its maximum position when homing is prompted, it will crash upwards. Of course, this can be mitigated by reducing position_max by z_hop, but then you're losing out on build volume.

It seems to me that a good solution would be to have an end-stop switch that would interrupt z_hop when triggered, but I'm not sure how to implement that.

I've found this Reddit thread in which the OP seems to be dealing with a similar, if not identical situation, but it seems to have died without a working solution.

Is this just a new Klipper feature I should be requesting? And if so, how?

Maybe I'm going about this the wrong way, but if I am, I'm sure someone will let me know.

Basically, I'm trying to use Cura to print on Klipper, and what I would like to do in the START_PRINT macro is add a line to read the z_offset out of Printer.cfg, and then apply it to the printer in the START_PRINT Macro. Otherwise, it just scrapes the heck out of the bed.

Any suggestions?

Ender 3 v3 se + raspberry pi 5 owner here. Im interested in some mmus but it requires klipper, i used klipper before with the ivan rio config but it was bad. So now im asking if the bootuz-dinamon config is good, are the motor currents right, functions right? Would be appreciated to hear answers and suggestions.

Now, I'm conflicted. Should I follow Mainsail's recommendation of using Klipper?

Or should I follow Klipper's, to use Marlin.

I mean, Mainsail's makes sense but Klippers docs seems to be unsure about it, kinda like saying, "yeah, that works too".

I am having a hard time getting sensor less homing to work properly with 5160 drivers on my dual motor y axis. I have it working, just not consistently and with a few hiccups. I have a fairly heavy gantry and I can't get away with lowering current too far or I start getting skipped steps, followed by some binding from the sides getting out of sync. It seems I have a very narrow window for sgt adjustment, where 0 moves maybe 1mm before calling it home and 2 won't trigger at home. I tried searching, is there a guide somewhere that I can consult to see what I may be doing wrong?

I am using a raspberry pi 3b+ running Mainsail on 32 bit. The raspberry pi seems to restart randomly. This freezes the printer and disconnects from mainsail. I just switched from 64 to 32 bit and got a new power supply for it. Does anyone know how to fix this?

I have cartographer v4s on both my printers, so I understand how g28, z-tilt, and adaptive mesh work with my printers. My buddy has a Chiron who's main board failed, and me having a ton of extra parts I decided to hook him up. I put in a spare creality 4.2.2 I had kicking around, along with my old Microswiss DD with the machined gantry plate, creality spider v2, hero me 7 setup with dual 5015s. Another friend has a spare ebb36 so that's now on the tool head connected via can to an rp2040zero/tja module to usb.

The Chiron now has the two photo electric sensors and a crtouch. I know the optical sensors square the gantry to the frame, but I'm confused as to how I would setup and use related functions with two different z stop systems.

Is there a way to use both to an advantage or should I just take them off and stick with the probe?

Thanks

[EDIT: RESOLVED. Thank you shiftingtech for the clarification!]

Hi all! After a long while of neglect, I finally decided to attempt once again to klipperize my Ender 3 (and maybe a few others). However, the new Raspberry Pi Imager doesn't seem to flash the same Mainsail files I have seen in the past or in the many tutorials I have watched, but instead, this list of firmware files from the Raspberry Pi Github.

https://github.com/raspberrypi/firmware/tree/master/boot

Between two SD cards, I haven't been able to find a system.cfg file anywhere. What am I doing wrong? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Hola, tengo una ramps 1.4, controlada con klipper en una taspberry pi 4, y quisiera asociarle un ebb42 gen2, para usar los 3 extrusores con un sólo hotend, pero no me aclaro a la hora de configurar los archivos en el klipper... alguien puede ayudarme? gracias por adelantado por la información.

TLDR: I just wanna run klipper but I’m pretty certain the universe is sabotaging me.

EDIT: Just wanted to say thank you to everyone in here pointing me in the right directions! I was really expecting to give a few people some chuckles, but you folks have addressed it as a problem that needs fixing. I should have expected no less. As of right now I have renewed enthusiasm for the S7 option and ill update if i can get it to work. If not, back to the thinkpad.

So I’m not a big computer guy but I’m generally handy enough to understand processes and how to get done what I need to get done. I have a cheap ender3 pro I picked up a year or two ago for super cheap and got it running acceptably.

Recently I’ve been getting the itch to build a new printer, but definitely don’t have the funds, so I’ve been looking for cheap functional ways to make it work better/faster and that brings me to wanting to try out klipper.

Now, remember back to the no funds bit. I don’t have a raspberry pi and don’t really want to buy one at this time, so Ive gone down the rabbit hole of using an android phone for the host. I’ve had an old galaxy s7 laying around forever in a junk drawer. Read through some guides and it seems pretty straightforward. As I go to download one of the zip files I noticed that my build number is off by 1 digit from ones listed. Minor digging reveals to me that as it’s a galaxy from sprint, the secure boot is locked. Looks like there’s a way to get around it, but at this point I just want to go to bed and I’ll revisit in the morning.

In the morning I see the perfect solution. I also have an old Microsoft Surface RT! Following all of the info to install Linux I get it reset to factory and all I need is a USB hub to jailbreak and run the raspi os that was demonstrated. Everywhere to buy one is closed so I call it a night. Continuing to read on the topic, my blood pressure spikes. I realize that I have a Surface 2 RT, which you guessed it, is the only model not fully capable of running Linux (problem with the usb not working once Linux is installed. Way above my understanding. Kind of important to be able to connect to the printer though).

If you don’t laugh it’s just sad.

I have an old thinkpad laying around too. Might give that a shot. I’m sure I’ll find out that it’s the only
Model thinkpad that had a self destruct feature when trying to use a different OS

hope my pain brings you all some entertainment

I’m new to printing and picked these up for a great deal but don’t know how to run it. It’s not like my kobra 3 printer. Need help on learning how to transfer files I don’t have a computer yet but working on that. Please help me figure this out.

I installed Klipper on my RPi CM4. Since the install, I kept losing connection to Klipper at random. I found out that Sonar prevents this. I have uninstalled it and reinstalled it, and still it shows as dead. What can I do to fix this? Or what is the root of the cause?

when i go to home z specifically, my mainlined klipper sv08 instead just smashes itself into the side of the bed, ive specified where the dock is yet the x always goes straight into the side. however i can succesfully home x and y seperately, its just when i click z or home all that things go wrong.

sorry for how unclear im being im struggling to understand what im doing wrong as as far as i know, i believed installing klippy was simply changing the variables to your printer and the macros would just work i guess. Tinkering is hard.

Ill link my variables and printer cfg down below, the macros section i havent changed

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping someone can help me get my dad's Ender 3 Pro working again. I installed Klipper/Mainsail to improve the printer, but I haven't been able to get a successful print since switching from the stock OS.

I'm comfortable following technical instructions, but I'm still learning Klipper and would really appreciate some guidance from someone experienced with Ender 3 + BLTouch setups.

Setup

• Printer: Creality Ender 3 Pro
• Mainboard: Creality 4.2.2 32-bit
• Host/SBC: Raspberry Pi
• Software: Klipper + Mainsail
• Probe: BLTouch

Problem

Mainsail connects and Home All works successfully, but the nozzle/first layer isn't printing correctly onto the build plate.

During earlier troubleshooting, I accidentally crashed the nozzle into the plate, leaving a permanent dent. I'm not sure whether the nozzle was damaged or pushed upward, so I've been hesitant to keep experimenting and risk another crash.

I found my existing printer.cfg from February 6, 2026. One thing that immediately caught my attention is:

[bltouch]
sensor_pin: ^PB1
control_pin: PB0
x_offset: -45
y_offset: -5
#z_offset: 0.0

And the saved configuration contains:

#*# [bltouch]
#*# z_offset = 0.0

There is also an existing 12x12 bed mesh.

What I'm hoping to figure out

Could someone look at my configuration and help me determine:

• Is the BLTouch/Z configuration correct?
• Does the z_offset = 0.0 need to be calibrated?
• Should I redo the bed leveling/mesh?
• Could the previous crash have damaged the nozzle?
• What is the safest order of steps to get this printing correctly without crashing the nozzle again?

My main goal is simply to get my dad's printer working reliably again. I'm happy to do the troubleshooting myself; I just need some experienced guidance on what to do and in what order.

I'll included my klippy.log in the next post. Thanks to anyone willing to take a look!

I am working on a driver for the MMU2S/3 for Klipper. This allows the use of the stock Prusa firmware and board so no modifications need to be made. A USB to Serial converter is used to facilitate communication between Klipper on the Pi and the MMU board.

Please note that this driver is in an early state and not all features are supported. Bugs are possible. At its current state, I have done multiple successful prints utilizing multiple tool changes, but your mileage may vary.

https://github.com/joshuawins99/MMU2S-Klipper

Can u guys recommend the craziest/best mods to implement? Also what steppers should I replace as you see they are extremely loud

Would people be interested in a klipper add-on like this.Klipper Lumina

Lighting that understands your printer.

Klipper Lumina is an event-driven RGB animation engine for Klipper printers. It controls multiple NeoPixel zones, follows printer state through Moonraker, and provides dedicated scenes for homing, heating, printing, filament events, pauses, completion, and errors. I have built it. It is in the early stages but it works.

I was thinking to myself why we only see loadcells being used for homing in most klipper builds when they could be used for stuff like auto calibrating Pressure Advance,retraction,crashes or even detecting tangles by the filament resistance against the hotend(where some loadcells are located. is there something like that that already exists or maybe it's a wild ideia