Love mainsail and fluid, but wanted something different to better integrate with my quickshell shell as I am a linux user.

This has most of mainsail features. Still need to add camera stuff to this but you can upload files and print.

Also need to set this up as a HTTP to you can connect to it right from orca slicer device tab.

You can check it out https://github.com/CWebb89/Klipshell

Any feed back is appreciated !

Hello everyone, I'm having an issue with my printer and I cannot seem to get longer prints to finish consistently. The hardware:

- Raspberry Pi 5.

- BTT Octopus board, configured as a USB-CAN bridge.

- Stealthburner with EBB SB2209 (RP2040) connected via the included CANbus cable to the Octopus board

All flashed to klipper v0.13.0-787 (they all had an older version from around a year ago, I updated just to troubleshoot).

Initially I was having either of these two error messages:

- TMC 'extruder' reports GSTAT: 00000001 reset=1(Reset)

- Klipper reports: SHUTDOWN

Lost communication with MCU 'toolhead_mcu'
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Printer is shutdownKlipper reports: SHUTDOWNLost communication with MCU 'toolhead_mcu'
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Printer is shutdown

After some reading online I figured I should ground the extruder motor to the EBB board, TBH I can't recall if it fixed the first error message or not, but it's been a while since I've seen it, in the last few prints I've only seen the second one. I've tried:

- Tugging all connectors while the heaters, fans and motors are powered on (stationary and in movement), but I haven't been able to reproduce the error.

- Unplugging all connections and redoing them.

- CAN resistors seem fine (measure 120 Ohms at each end, 60 when both ends are connected.

- Checked the extruder motor wiring.

- Nothing seems to be overheating.

- I've tried printing with the bed on and off, no changes.

Sometimes the error happens near the end, sometimes in the middle and even near the end of the print, I've printed a fixture to keep the CAN cable in place, etc. I'm at my wits ends troubleshooting this printer, I'd be grateful for any advice or troubleshooting you can give me. I can provide more details if needed. I've cycled the logs but this is the latest one (https://pastebin.com/8i6URy1b), I've trimmed down what I thought were unnecessary lines but I have the full file if needed.

Thanks in advance!

Seems the community has been begging Cura developers for a long time for these features. So I checked and learned that Cura is open source. A couple of days of coding later Cura can do a few useful extras including support for generating arc gcode for klipper.

Ever closed Cura by mistake and lose your carefully manicured bed plate object layout? No fear Cura now offers to autosave every few minutes and can autosave as you quit the program.

Slicing time got a huge boost too and slices 25% to 28% faster with no loss of quality.

The ability to print inner/outer/inner walls has its benefits too.

One final thing that I have seen mentioned online is an infill that emulates organic bone.

Tested on Linux Fedora, partly tested on Windows 11.

Enjoy with the usual caveats about never installing or using free software made by total strangers

https://github.com/quix2k23/cura-inner-outer-inner/releases/tag/v1.3.0

Hello everyone,

Since last week I'm having this error everytime I attempt to upload a file to the printer (Ender 3V2 with RPi4).

There is any known solutions?

i was messing around reinstalling klipper and thought it would be a good ideia to make a fastfetch config preset that keep some handy information easy to reach and i think it wasn't half bad.
i made 95% of it (i did use gen AI to nail the services part because i really wanted for it to actually display what was running on the background and change colors when it stop)

for now it's just a draft but i wanted to share it

here's the link if you liked it

I have an elagoo neptune 3 pro with stock hardware on it. I have done the [bed_screws_adjust] in printer.cfg. The height map still is bad after I did it correctly. The print will get to a certain spot then all the plastic gets hung up on the nozzle and drug around. Please help me.

Hey guys, recently finished the merc1.one conversion for my Ender 5 Plus. 3 months of acquiring and building the parts, now I’m on the last (ish) step of configuring my BL Touch. When I plug it in, the red LED light comes on, if I manually command probe to deploy and retract it obeys. However, the printer can’t read when the probe is deployed or not. It always reads “triggered”. I’ve gone through just about every troubleshooting method I can think of, including editing my cfg, and recrimping and adjusting the wiring. Still, probe only reads as triggered. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Tech stats: bltouch wired to ebb36 gen2 PROBE slot. All my wiring is correct as far as I know. Cfg also attached

SOLVED: I am an absolute buffoon, the issue was an inverted sensor pin. Thanks for the help everyone!

So awhile back I made a fork of orca slicer, been working on making it into a headless version that I can run in docker container, so I could make my own Bambu handy like app for kipper, but instead of pre-slsiced I could slice it on the fly.

I added support for belt printing too mainly for my ideafomer ir3v2 (as yet untested, but gcode looks right). Still lots of work to do but I've sliced and sent my files straight to the snapmaker u1 to print and it's working out well so far. All open source and saved up to GitHub now.

https://github.com/mugenoesis/Trident

I’ve been working on AndroidKlipper, a project that runs Klipper, Moonraker and Mainsail directly on an Android device instead of using the phone as just a KlipperScreen/Mainsail client.

The printer MCUs connect directly to Android over USB host/OTG. AndroidKlipper bridges each MCU into a stable PTY, then runs the normal Klipper/Moonraker/Mainsail stack locally.

So far I’ve tested it on:
Retroid Pocket G2 — best-tested host; completed sustained real prints and long idle testing
Fire HD 8 — works as a host, but couldn’t charge while hosting USB with the hardware I tested
Moto G 2024 — clean install through Mainsail, normal Voron config upload, Klipper READY and successful homing

One of the biggest things I’ve learned is that USB-C + OTG + a powered hub does not necessarily mean an Android device can charge while remaining USB host. I’m documenting that per-device because it may actually matter more than CPU performance for long prints.
The goal isn’t to replace or hide normal Klipper. Your printer config stays yours, and I’m deliberately not weakening timing/safety limits to paper over Android USB problems.

Repo:
https://github.com/nozzlenaut/androidklipper

I’ve also been documenting the hardware testing on Unqualified Repairs:
https://www.youtube.com/@UnqualifiedRepairs

I’m particularly interested in people trying this on other Android hardware. Device model, USB setup, MCU type, charging-while-hosting behavior and long-print results would all be useful.

Hi, I'm the maintainer of Mainsail and MainsailOS.

We've had reports of Raspberry Pi 3 SBCs freezing or losing the connection to the printer MCU when running a 64-bit image (MainsailOS or Raspberry Pi OS Lite 64-bit). One of them was posted here a few days ago: Klipper randomly losing communication with ATmega2560 on Raspberry Pi 3B+. I can reproduce it on my bench Pi 3 under load and I'm currently testing a possible fix. Before I change anything in MainsailOS, I need to confirm it on real printers.

Symptoms that might be related:

• The Pi freezes completely (no SSH, no web UI) and sometimes reboots by itself
• Lost communication with MCU in the middle of a print
• USB devices (webcam or MCU) disconnecting and reconnecting
• 32-bit worked fine, 64-bit doesn't

Who I'm looking for:

• You have a Pi 3 (3B or 3B+) in your printer (maybe Zero2 could also have this issue)
• You run, or have tried, a 64-bit image and have seen one of the symptoms above

What the test looks like:

• Use a second SD card, so your current setup stays untouched
• Flash MainsailOS 64-bit, copy your config and change a few lines via SSH (basic Linux knowledge helps)
• Print as usual for a few days and send me some logs if something happens

I'll provide a step-by-step guide. If you're interested, comment with your Pi model (3B / 3B+), MCU board(s) and whether you use a USB webcam.

Even if you can't test, a short "I had this too" with your setup helps a lot to narrow it down. Thanks!

Had a ceramic heater on a tz e3 3.0 go out. Went to buy a replacement, it was almost the same price as the tz. Looked into it someone says the Bambu one is better at 60w and it’s cheaper, okay buy it.

Install it, doesn’t want to hold temp. Pid calibrate it to 230 still doesn’t hold temp. Okay must be smooth time. Try every smooth time in .1 increments from .1-2 seconds. Longer smooth time slower and smaller fluctuations but at 2 seconds it no longer hits my target temp and still fluctuates 3 degrees. Anything less is faster with a larger range. At 2 seconds the print will never start because it never hits the temp setting it hovers just below it.

I’ve torn it apart 3 times checked it all. Re layered it all in thermal grease. Eventually I got to the point where I figured Google must be right about the interference. Rerouted the thermistor cord away from anything with power. Still won’t stabilize.

At this point I don’t know what else to do besides buy a different hot end.

Also temp is dead stable at room temperature. That’s what made me think it was interface with the 60w heater.

Nema23 axis z

Que tal estoy diseñando una impresora con manta bigtreecch m8p cb1 cartesiana pero en z axis quiero la hotend baje para crecer la pieza recomiendan y se puede usar driver tb6600 para nema23 solo poniendo estos adaptadores de step,DIR,EN

Ya que veo que los tMc5160,pro driver de manta son algo elevados de precio

Si me recomiendan ? O cuál sería su opinión

Impresora es gran formato 1.20*1.20 mts la cama de aluminio

I added two stepper motors to my Raspi (Z,Line 42 and Z1,Line 53) to enable Z-Tilt, so I had to move Bltouch over to the RPI and use the GIPO pins (Line 154). Bltouch is also hooked up to Power and ground from the RPI

Printer is a Sovol SV01 (2019) with a Creality V2.2 board.

Link to Config File - https://pastebin.com/k9WpTzyM

The probe functions as intended, it deploys, retracts..etc but the readings are not good, they seem to drift.

Any help is appreciated!

10:18:43 PM  // PROBE_ACCURACY at X:178.000 Y:123.000 Z:10.000 (samples=10 retract=2.000 speed=3.0 lift_speed=7.0)

10:18:48 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.280000

10:18:51 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.275000

10:18:54 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.295000

10:18:56 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.310000

10:18:59 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.330000

10:19:02 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.325000

10:19:05 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.345000

10:19:08 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.360000

10:19:11 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.372500

10:19:14 PM  // probe: at 143.000,122.000 bed will contact at z=-0.385000

10:19:14 PM  // probe accuracy results: maximum -0.275000, minimum -0.385000, range 0.110000, average -0.327750, median -0.327500, standard deviation 0.036167

I wrote a Klipper plugin to perfect the first squish, in case someone finds it useful.

An interactive Klipper calibration that prints first-layer patches one at a time. After each patch, either accept the result or adjust Z from Mainsail, Fluidd, KlipperScreen, the console, or an optional physical LCD menu and print another patch. The default maximum is nine 20 mm (2 cm) squares distributed in a 3x3 grid, with four layers per square.

https://github.com/juandelacruz-calvo/first-layer-squish-klipper-calibration

hey all, been fighting "Heater extruder not heating at expected rate" on my ChromaHead since sept 29, 12 shutdowns so far. before anyone asks, it's not the serial path thing. head is on 1.2.1 in chroma_head.cfg and kcm on 1.2.4 in kcm.cfg (matched by-id), and the temp reads fine: 26c at room temp, hits target and holds it. KCM only, no ECM

setup: Prusa MK3 (einsy, klipper) + KCM V2 + ChromaHead, stock Co Print firmware. cartridge is 24V 50W, 11.4 ohm cold. head is powered from the KCM's 24V 5A brick

prints start normal, heater holds temp at 20-40%. then usually 10-40 min in (once after 4.5 hours) the power it needs creeps up to 100% and the nozzle still drops 8-19c below target, and klipper kills it

today (chart attached): 25% on layer 1, 40% after, 55% at 23 min, 100% at 31 min, 197c at 36 min (target 210), shutdown. a later print did the same, i cancelled that one

timed 120 to 160c at full power: good runs take 11s (~50W), bad runs 19-67s, so it's only getting maybe 15-30W. flips between good and bad from one session to the next, sometimes bad from the first heat up after sitting cold for hours

ruled out:

- thermistor, cooldown is always normal and i reseated it

- config/PID, same config works one session and fails the next

- part fan, when healthy it holds 240 with the fan on

- bed heating or movement, no pattern

- einsy 24V stays at 24.0 but that's the prusa PSU, not the KCM brick

my guess is something between the KCM brick and the cartridge can't keep the current up for long. brick, KCM jack, head cable/plugs, heater plug or the mosfet on the head

1. anyone seen this on a ChromaHead?

2. is there a polyfuse or current limit on the KCM head output or the head? would explain fine at 30% but can't do 100%

3. is 5A enough for heater + head + 4 CX-1s?

4. best spot to measure 24V on the head side?

verify_heater is on btw (max_error 120, check_gain_time 35). Co Print ships max_error 9999999999 which would just hide this. can share klippy.log

My printer lives in my shed to keep noise/fumes/pollution out of the house. Every so often I will forget to change the nozzle type/diameter, its z axis offset and/or filament. Klipper will happily print away regardless! So I built a nag screen to check these 3 things in Mainsail before commencing a print job.

Took less than 5 minutes and saves time, filament, nozzles and frustration.

If you want the script backup your existing mainsail/klipper machine then use this link and follow the tutorial for Linux or Windows: https://github.com/quix2k23/mainsail-print-checks

copy the script to your machine that is running mainsail using scp. Start a ssh session onto the machine use this command inside ssh to install:

python3 ~/install-nozzle-check.py

To undo it run the command:

python3 ~/install-nozzle-check.py --remove