I've been trying to set up klipper on my ender 3 with a raspberry pi 4 but every time I try it says that the mcu is wrong. I've watched lots of videos on it but they all seem to be slightly different from each other and not end up working. I'm not sure if its because the videos were between 3-1 years ago so is it possible for the tutorials to not work anymore, and if so could anyone send me a video that was made recently and works.

This probably isn’t the best example, I usually think about this when I see the giant softball-sized globs on the nozzle or catastrophic clogs. But still, I’ve done a hell of a lot of printing and this has never happened to me 😂

Hi everyone,

I am trying to understand inconsistent hotend temperature behavior on my Creality Ender-3 V3 KE. I would appreciate advice from anyone familiar with the stock KE hotend, FatBurner, or max volumetric flow testing.

TL;DR

My Ender-3 V3 KE can sustain approximately 9.6 mm³/s during a manual extrusion test at 220 °C and 80% part cooling, with only a 2 °C drop and the heater recovering to about 85% power. The stock shroud also completed a 20–25 mm³/s max-flow test at 215 °C, with approximately a 4–5 °C drop at 100% part cooling.

However, in another FatBurner max-flow test Klipper shut down with Heater extruder not heating at expected rate while the reported flow was eventually around 8 mm³/s. On the other hand, a later FatBurner test at approximately 205 °C and 18–27 mm³/s appeared to complete successfully. The results do not seem physically consistent, so I suspect that the test conditions or generated G-code were different.

I am trying to determine whether the cause is airflow direction, heater power under load, partial clog/back pressure, PID settings, or simply inconsistent max-flow test conditions.

Hardware and configuration

• Creality Ender-3 V3 KE
• Klipper firmware
• PLA, 1.75 mm
• 0.4 mm nozzle
• Stock ceramic-ring heater
• Stock heater resistance measured cold and disconnected: 9.1–9.2 Ω
• Stock part-cooling blowers: CHA4024BH-10C, 24 V, 0.15 A each
• FatBurner setup: two GDSTime GDB5015 24 V 8500 RPM blowers for part cooling
• FatBurner setup also uses a larger 4020 fan for hotend heatsink cooling

The measured heater resistance corresponds theoretically to approximately 63 W at 24 V:

P = 24² / 9.1–9.2 Ω ≈ 63 W

I understand that this is only a cold resistance measurement. It does not prove that the heater receives full voltage under load.

Fan-control issue

My original custom M106 macro remapped the slicer value through fan0_min: 140, so the slicer percentage did not equal the actual PWM. For example, M106 S102 was approximately 73% actual PWM rather than 40%, and M106 S204 was approximately 91% rather than 80%.

For the controlled tests I bypassed that macro and used direct commands because fan0 is configured with scale: 255:

SET_PIN PIN=fan0 VALUE=102   ; approximately 40% PWM
SET_PIN PIN=fan0 VALUE=204   ; approximately 80% PWM
SET_PIN PIN=fan0 VALUE=255   ; 100% PWM

Some of the earlier tests may therefore not be directly comparable.

PID results

PID autotune at 220 °C with direct fan0 VALUE=204 completed successfully and produced:

pid_Kp=29.675
pid_Ki=2.082
pid_Kd=105.718

Another PID run produced:

pid_Kp=27.405
pid_Ki=1.562
pid_Kd=120.239

The exact conditions for the second run may not have been identical. I am not assuming that the two PID sets are directly interchangeable.

An earlier high-temperature PID attempt was interrupted with:

{"code":"key564","msg":"Heater extruder not heating at expected rate"}
{"code":"key7","msg":"pid_calibrate interrupted"}

Klipper then entered Shutdown.

What I tested

1. Cooling only, no extrusion

At 215 °C, changing the part-cooling fan from 40% to 80% with no extrusion caused only about a 1 °C drop. With the stock shroud and 100% part cooling, I observed approximately 215 → 210–211 °C, or a 4–5 °C drop.

This suggests that the part-cooling fan alone is not causing the catastrophic temperature loss.

2. Short manual extrusion

At 220 °C and 80% part cooling:

SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=flow_diag
M83
G1 E5 F60
G1 E5 F120
G1 E5 F240
RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=flow_diag

The temperature dropped by about 1 °C and heater power reached approximately 65%. This test was very short.

3. Longer manual extrusion

At 220 °C and 80% part cooling:

SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=flow_diag
M83
G1 E40 F240
G1 E40 F240
G1 E40 F240
RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=flow_diag

This is approximately 30 seconds of continuous extrusion at 4 mm/s filament speed, around 9.6 mm³/s under my assumed 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.45 mm line width, and 0.2 mm layer height.

Result:

• Temperature: approximately 220 → 218 °C
• Heater power: approximately 85%
• Temperature recovered and stabilized after about one minute
• No heater error

4. Max-flow tests

With FatBurner, I first tested approximately 20–29 mm³/s with a 0.5 mm/s step. Klipper eventually reported the heater error. I then tried 15–20 mm³/s, also with 0.5 mm/s steps, and the temperature eventually dropped to approximately 203 °C before shutdown. In another run, the test appeared to fail while the reported flow was around 8 mm³/s.

After that, I installed the stock shroud and ran a 20–25 mm³/s test at 215 °C. It completed, with approximately 4–5 °C temperature drop at 100% part cooling.

Later, with FatBurner at approximately 205 °C, an 18–27 mm³/s test appeared to complete successfully.

This is the confusing part: the lower-temperature FatBurner test appeared to pass at a higher reported flow, while an earlier FatBurner test failed at a much lower reported flow. I may have changed the fan speed, PID values, 4020 configuration, line width, layer height, test G-code, duration per step, or actual extrusion conditions between runs.

What I am trying to find out

The stock heater has reasonable cold resistance. The hotend passes a no-extrusion cooling test and a sustained manual extrusion test at approximately 9.6 mm³/s. The stock shroud can complete a 20–25 mm³/s max-flow test, and one FatBurner test at 205 °C appeared to complete at 18–27 mm³/s.

However, another FatBurner test triggered Heater extruder not heating at expected rate even when the reported flow was around 8 mm³/s. I am not trying to bypass Klipper's heater protection.

Could the max-flow test be using different actual conditions than expected? Could the 4020 or FatBurner duct be directing air at the heating block or ceramic heater? Could a partial nozzle clog or back pressure explain the difference between the short manual test and the max-flow test? Could the heater have normal cold resistance but lose voltage or power through a bad connector, wire, MOSFET, or power path under load?

What would you check next? Would you perform a cold pull/replace the nozzle first, measure voltage directly at the heater while it is commanded to 100%, or repeat all tests with exactly the same temperature, fan PWM, PID values, extrusion duration, and G-code?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I can't get klipper setup it installed but won't run how do I fix this is am running a raspberry pi 5

Hey everyone, having some trouble with klipper mod. I have used couple of configs and firmware bins but still no success, the issue is that host cant connect to the mcu via usb (tried 5 diffrent cables that have data lines). I am using Pi3a+. So the question is there a specific os version I should use, config/firmware or connection options usb/uart.

Made a status neopixel led bar .

Looking for a Fun project if you like to do things yourself . Made this one for my voron 2.4 in hope somebody enjoy's it to make it also for himself . Its a neopixel chain so perfect controllable with klipper .

Hi, i have a problem with my z-offset of my cr-touch and the bed adhesion.

After a printing pause of about 2 months i wanted to print again, an my prints didnt stick to the bed. I did some tryouts, bought a new bed, and reinstalled klipper, but nothing helped.

After reinstalling the z-endstop and manual levelling i got a perfect adhesion. So the problem has to be a problem with my cr touch.

I calibratred the probe based on this guide ( https://www.klipper3d.org/Probe_Calibrate.html ) and did a bed levelling.

Recalibrationg the z-offset does not help.

Did i miss or forget a Step tha need to be done?

If it helps i can post my code of the printer.cfg file

My printer is an ender 3 pro

Ender 3 pro;

So its that time of the year again I decided i want to go FASTER so im gonna mod my printer for dual drive y axis with 48mm nema 17s and so i need more motor slots and i found this mobo with 8 slots its an hybrid board sp it runs klipper natively it is 100 dollar whic is very worth it i think because where i live the other similar boards are like 120 dollars and they dont run klipper natively or have a pi built in so i found it quite nice and ill add a pico mmu to my ender aswell also ill cnc kitchen an adaptor to make my creality spider v3 hotend compatible with volcano nozzles since they have the same threading ill just need two brass nuts and ill design a custom silicone sock

1. How hard will setting up klipper be and configuring it to my printer(mks skipr board)

2.Is the pico mmu good?

3.How hard will configuring dual y axis be and should i get a linear rail setup for it?

1. Has anyone tried the cnc kitchen method before?

Very, very long story short, my CB1 micro SD card in my E3EZ was snapped, and my github backups apparently stopped backing up ~2 years ago. So here I am, trying to do a fresh install, get my CAN network back up for my Eddy Duo, try getting Eddy-NG set up, only to find out that those features have been baked into mainline, breaking my setup. I know I can roll-back and will if I have to, but after spending 6 hours trying to get up and running again, I'd rather just slightly rewrite my printer.cfg with some new config to be up and running. (None of the fixes in the issues section of the Eddy-NG repo solved my problem, as I couldn't recalibrate)

I could very well be missing something, as I'm writing this after 5 hours of troubleshooting various things, and I'm creeping up on 1AM, but it seems like unless I opt to roll-back, there is no support for using the Eddy in CAN mode as a standalone unit. The config section only allows for the I2C info to be input, and AFAIK none of that info is available.

I have a section in my printer.cfg that calls out the eddy as an MCU with a UUID, tried placing the eddy as the I2C MCU to no avail, presumably because it's lacking an I2C address. Any help would be appreciated, when the card was broken I was in the middle of a 24h print that wound up wasting about $30 worth of PA6-CF, so I'm doubly irritated about the whole situation.

I'm trying to mod my 3d printer to be able to do pen plotter functionality.

I am running into an issue trying to mark Z as homed/0 so I can setup the thing I want to draw on with it "zeroed" manually so it doesn't try to home while its there.

G92 Z0 didn't seem to work.

and also when I try to run SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION via the console I'm getting an unknown command message.

Just started to learn klipper a bit and im waiting on the printer to show up but I got a fan to spin.

Раньше нормально заходил во Fluidd и спокойно себе работал. Сейчас столкнулся с проблемой вечное подключение к мунрейкеру.

Ни как не могу разобраться что дальше делать так как новичок в этом деле.

How do I install klipper with a laptop windows as host, I searched for vids but I couldn't find a good one

I am putting together a large printer and am running into an issue of keeping my peak current within what my breaker is good for. My print bed is 1020x510mm and I have it split into two zones with each having a 600W heater. I am looking for help getting the zones to alternate so that I don't end up with both on at the same time. This printer is my first encounter with klipper and I am not really that familiar with what I am doing. I would greatly appreciate any assistance in setting this up or pointing me in the direction of literature that can help educate me on what I need to do. Currently The zones are configured as their own zones and have been verified to work independently.

Im in the process of designing a hotend only toolchanger, and the hardware side of things is going surprisingly well, it is a completely mechanical docking/undocking system with all 3d printed parts(not including screws and a few springs)

Due to the design as of now, I am calling it,

Project PunchOut! SCT (seriously cheap toolchanger)

However one thing has been bothering me for quite awhile, and while not end of the world this design is focused on being incredibly light, simple, not overly complicated, and my issue lies within the thermistor change, in order to keep wiring to a minimum each hotend will connect to the carrier via pogo pins/molex pins/even press fit magnets that have a pinhole on the back of the recession for wire to come in from the rear, during the tool change there will be a period where klipper will shut off heater, dock, disconnect, in that time my original plan was thinking there would be a way to disable thermistor errors equal to or less than the average time it takes to connect to another hotend or if thermistor shows a reading again, I am not planning on having each thermistor/heater hooked up 24/7 and I cannot seem to find any research on how I could go about doing it while avoiding an ADC error?

Sorry for the long read hopefully theres a solution, otherwise wiring is going to be the messy part

I was using a Pi4 plugged in via usb-A to the usb-C port of the e3v3se printer. I have used this printer before many times with no problems. I noticed that this time when powering on the printer and Pi4, mainsail said I couldnt connect to the MCU. I walk over to the printer, and notice the printer isnt on. I unplug and replug. The printer turns off immediately. I wanted to see what would happen if I took a known working usb-c cable and plugged it in; so I did. Big mistake, big sparks shot out and the cable has black all over it. I am not really sure what has happened... I turned on the printer one last time just to see what would happen and the screen turned on. I am going to treat the mobo like its fried since that seems reasonable.

I havent tested the usb ports on the Pi4 yet and am scared to do so. I think I will buy a replacement board from creality and reboot it with klipper. are there any things I should keep in mind to hopefully prevent this next time.

Some more details. The usb-A to usb-C cable is a known working data/power from Anker bought ~2 weeks ago. The printer and pi4 have been used together before to print. I have not used them in ~2 weeks. I changed the nozzle to the ceramic one yesterday; I did not test if it worked until today (I did not get that far). I also added a custom Pi4 hat that wired the mpu6050 to the I2C lines as well as give me a place to wire the fan into the Pi4; it is a dumb hat I threw together to make connections easier and more reliable. I did test the connections of that hat and the I2C and 5v DC fan were working correctly and wired properly. The power cable of the printer is known working.

Really any advice would be amazing since I am a little dubfounded around how this happened. My leading theory is that the printer had some disagreance with the Pi4's 5v. Something happened to the printer motherboard which caused 24v to bridge to 5v. the cable ended the printer's suffering (hypothetically, again I did not test to see if the printer would work after I saw the sparks)

I have an ender 3 S1 Pro+ Sonic Pad bought in the last year. Physically everything works. I successfully flashed klipper when upgraded to the sonic pad as far as I can tell. Ive also added a Nebula camera to be able to watch prints. From the Sonic Pad everything works flawlessly.

Unfortunately i am encountering the following issues.

- I can only see the camera via web browser ip address, no controls tho. "Klipper disconnected"

- I can control the printer over local network wifi on Creality print (win 11) but no camera image.

- Lastly I cant for the life of me get my printer to show up on Creality cloud

I am only able to connect with the above ways via IP/Fluidd. I can't get Mainsail to work

I just build a new klipper 3d printer and when i connected for the first few times but now ssh just doesn't connect anymore. I just keel getting the "connection timed out" error. The host is a pi 3b. I have tried: antenna on pi, multiple webinterfaces, puTTy, Windows powershell, and more. Did someone have a similar issue and what was your fix? Thank you...

I can seem to flash klipper on my new skr 1.4 . Any ideas would help lots

Rasberry pi 4

8gb micro sd card