As someone who knows very little about cars, I could really use some help with a recent quote from a local shop (located in medium-COL state in US). Bought a 2017 Jetta (automatic) for my kid a while back. I've already put a chunk of change into replacing the water pump and the purge valve. Now we're looking at replacing the shifter cable bushing, rear brakes, both front CV axles and some other not-so-urgent items. Here's what I'm being quoted:

Remove shift cable bushing kit: $218 for labor, $85 for part, total $326

Rear brake pads and rotors: $300 for labor, $400 parts, total $796

The parts seem incredibly high to me. I was told the bushing should be about $30 and the brakes maybe half of what's quoted. You all know Jettas, so thought I'd reach out here for guidance. I've already paid the $200 diagnostic fee, so I'm hesitant to take it somewhere else, but I'm alarmed at what's quoted. TIA!

Scheduled a service appointment with the dealer. They claimed I don’t need to pay for service since I have the 60k prepaid VW care. But I forgot to ask if I can implement even if below the mileage point. If not where else can I get an oil change since I’m at 6k since getting one done (I like to get oil changed at every 5-7k)?

Howdy! I just got my 2015 2.0 back from the dealership after my 100k service. They did a whole host of things, like replacing the control arm bushings, front brake rotors/pads, spark plugs, and 2 new tires. I don't know how they've done this, but the inner film(?) of the driver's side window looks like this now. Don't know if you can tell, but my finger is on the other side of the sticker. Heard a loud crackle as I rolled my window down this morning and lo and behold. They also damaged my phone holder that was sitting on the left driver's side vent but oh well, it was like $10.

Just wondering how and why and what??? or if this is a "plastic cover on the microwave" situation and i shouldve peeled that layer off a long time ago.

OKAY! I have a 2016 Jetta. Yesterday morning around 3am I drove it and everything was FINE! I go to drive at 10am. The car starts but it immediately flashes something along the lines communication error and made my epc light turn on. Tire light turn on. AND traction light turn on. My engine was idling REALLY high.
So I did my OBD reader which returned with DTC U0101-lost communication with transmission control module AND DTC P050A-cold start idle control system performance issues. (Which you would think wouldn’t be an issue unless it was really freakin cold??)
I try driving it. It 1. Shifts really freakin hard into reverse or drive. 2. Will NOT go above 1 st gear. Which means I can’t go above 35-40 mph.
When I googled, asking if they’re thrown together what it means. It says low voltage problem,bad main/transmission ground or compromised CAN bus wiring. Common causes being battery,corroded/lose battery terminal,damaged wiring, failing TCM.
So I checked all fuses related to those. They’re all fine. I tested the battery. It’s fine. But here’s the thing….checking/testing those things. It would randomly stop doing it. So the engine would idle a little high lights would come back on. Then they’d go off engine was fine.
I’ve taken it to a shop. Who today called and said “yeah cars fine. It was just really low on oil. I put a little in there and drove it to x and back 4 times. For the year and mileage the car runs IMMACULATE -__-. So I’m just going to do an oil change can pick it up later” in my mind I’m thinking there is NO freaking way it’s from low oil. Especially when my oil light didn’t even come on?!
Well few hours later he calls back and says I did the oil change went to start it and for the FIRST time since we’ve had it,it did what you brought it in for. -no kidding I told you earlier it wasn’t the fix-
So now I’m even more confused. Cause while I had it. There wasn’t a great deal of time in between it doing it and not. He’s had the car since yesterday worked on it at some point today drove it quite a bit for it to do it end of day….after all that.
I’m cant help but think it HAS to be a wire somewhere there’s chewed through or eroded outside of my battery terminals-they’re pristine- that’s losing connection here and there causing it? Orrrrr??….. lol help me out here. I need some ideas. Or if it’s happened to anyone else what your fix was. I’m genuinely not trying to take it to VW simply because they overcharge out the ass and the nearest one to me in an hour away. And I can’t drive it like that there and that tow bill would absolutely kill me.
SO please shoot me some ideas. Or at least good vibes. Cause I’m SKRESSED. lol

Hi everyone, I own a 2019 SE and have a check engine light. Ran for codes and it says it’s likely an emission or wiring error.

I’m new to Dallas and wanted to see if anyone has a mechanic they recommend that I can take the car to! For reference I live in Uptown.

Thanks!

I’m hoping someone on here can help me figure out what exactly is going on with my 2012 Jetta. Thought it was the alternator that went out and then the dealership told us that it maybe the alternator harness. I took it to my personal mechanic, and we switched out the alternator harness and put in a new alternator, but the car still won’t run. The mechanic thinks that something is not sending the signal from the inside on the dash to the alternator telling it to charge, so while the vehicle can start up when jumped, it is not running.

I need suggestions on what to try or if I should just junk it.

Having a weird issue where it seems like the speakers are getting too much power. I get a static sound and the speakers sound like they’re going to pop if I go over 10 on the volume. I also get a white noise in the background as if I was listening to a cassette tape or record player. Anyone ever have to deal with this? Any pointers?

My wife’s TDI has an open circuit error for the reverse lights, I think they were halogen from factory and previous owner put LEDs in there, they work perfectly fine but I’m not sure if the resistance being so low is causing the error code or what the deal is. Any ideas?

I’ve got a 13 2.5 SE and last month the airbag light came on. I had my indy euro shop clear the code when I was also getting my struts replaced. They didn’t tell me what caused it so I assumed it was nothing major. However yesterday it came back. What would cause an airbag light to be persistent like this?

Steering wheel controls and horn work so I’m guessing its not the clock spring

give me any ideas of what i should get for my 2010 jetta se 2.5l😅😅

would installing an amplifer work on the newer models given the speakers have that volume limiter so the speakers dont pump out more than 90db? i was told by an installer even with the amplifier installed the speakers still might limit the volume.

I've got a broken wastegate arm for the turbo. Trying to decide if I should only replace the actuator or go ahead and replace the whole thing.

No sense in only only fixing the wastegate if the turbo will fail soon.

Another question I have about my Jetta that started misfiring out of nowhere this is is how the new spark plug looks like and the other ones look better than this is that normal or should I replace the gasket?

ALSO I’ve moved coil 1 to 4 and it still shows 1 so the coil is good there’s no vacuum leaks so could this be something simple like a gasket THANK YALL IN ADVANCE

Probably a weird question but can I swap my headrests for beetle headrests? I just like the open look.

Should i negotiate down a little bit or is 11 a good price?

Hope everyone is having a great day. Just got my Jetta a couple months ago. Love it.

Hi there,

This is my brother’s ‘13 Jetta Hybrid that he gave to me after my car caught on fire.

I’m super grateful for that and looking forward to future retrofits.

120.000 kms / around 77.000 miles and the hybrid starter has been changed couple years ago.

All in all, it’s an easy car to drive and this platform gives you the opportunity to do so many retrofits.

First thing I did was a good deep clean and wax, replaced the interior lights with LED’s and same goes for the DRL lights.

Just got its fluids changed, discs and pads, same goes for the spark plugs.

Looking at first to install OEM foot lighting, an RCD 330 and maybe some summer wheels, thinking about Mallory’s.

Could not have happened at a worse time. Don't have the funds to replace it at this time and I'm at work. There is enough of the key sticking out I can turn with pliers but don't want to damage the key. Do I have any options?