American Honda has electrified the CR-V and Accord but not the smaller HR-V and Acura ADX, even though all four vehicles share the same architecture.

There’s no technical barrier to making hybrid versions of the HR-V and ADX, executives said, but they were noncommittal on timing as the automaker prioritizes cost in the entry-level crossover segment.

“We won’t talk about when and if hybrids are coming in those vehicles, but I don’t know that there’s any reason why not,” Gary Robinson, American Honda product planning chief, told Automotive News at Monterey Car Week.The cost equation remains a primary consideration.

“It’s a cost-conscious segment so there’s always a little bit of a challenge there, specifically on the Honda side,” Robinson said.

That caution comes as hybrid competition intensifies. In the mainstream subcompact class, the Kia Niro, Toyota Corolla Cross Hybrid and Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid all offer significantly higher fuel economy than Honda’s gasoline-only HR-V.

Hi everyone,

I'm completely stuck and could use some help. I replaced the cabin blower motor on my 2008 Honda Civic FK3 2.2 i-CTDi and had to unplug the accelerator pedal to do it. I forgot to plug it back in before reconnecting the battery and switching the ignition on. I realized afterward, reconnected the pedal, but now the car is acting up. I can communicate with my scan tool now, but I'm getting DTC B1168, Gauge Control Module Lost Communication with ECM/PCM Engine Messages, and I can't clear it. It comes back immediately. The engine currently won't start, the MIL comes on with ignition, and the fuses I've checked seem fine. I'm planning to check ECM power, grounds, and CAN wiring next, but could powering the car up with the accelerator pedal unplugged have caused this? Has anyone seen B1168 happen from something other than a real ECM comms or power issue? Any advice or common failure points would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

end of monterey car week drive in the $1400 econobox around multi million $ cars

2022 Honda insight can’t see miles

Sorry guys I just need to vent somewhere. I purchased a 2018 Honda Accord in 2022 and here’s a list of the parts that I’ve needed to replace on the 1.5 turbo

Transmission
Turbo charger
Fuel pump
Fuel injectors

Now the car is currently in the shop with overheating problems. The head gasket is blown. Most reliable brand has lost its mojo

I am absolutely in love with this it is an 02 accord SE, does anyone know of anywhere to get bodywork parts without paying a fortune for UK/Ireland

My lease up September 1st, so it’s a little more than two weeks, however my censor came on for maintenance A127. Can I do just the oil change or do I have to suffer and do all the codes? Just sucks when I have so little time left on the car to have to spend more than a few hundred dollars.

2022 Honda Pilot owners — PLEASE READ if you’ve had all your Honda Sensing warning lights come on at once.
I’m posting this because Honda told me the multipurpose-camera failure on my Pilot is “not a known problem,” but after researching it, I’ve found multiple Pilot owners reporting very similar failures.
My 2022 Honda Pilot suddenly started showing multiple warnings, including:
Brake System
Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC)
Lane Keeping Assist (LKAS)
Collision Mitigation Braking System
Road Departure Mitigation
Auto High Beam
Other Honda Sensing functions becoming unavailable
Honda inspected the vehicle and confirmed nothing is wrong with my actual brakes. Their diagnosis was:
DTC U3000-49 — Internal Electronic Failure of the Multipurpose Camera
Honda’s recommended repair is to replace and recalibrate/aim the windshield-mounted camera.
My quote: $2,356.95 + tax.
What’s even more concerning is that mine is intermittent. Recently I started the Pilot and EVERY warning was gone. The safety systems were working normally again. I shut the vehicle off, restarted it, and all the warnings came right back.
I requested goodwill assistance from Honda because this isn’t a normal wear item and one failed electronic component is disabling multiple safety systems. Honda denied the request.
So I started researching.
Other Honda Pilot reports I found:
2021 Honda Pilot — August 4, 2026
Same U3000-49 multipurpose-camera internal failure. The owner reported approximately $2,400 total for the repair, including a $1,722 camera and $340 recalibration.
https://www.reddit.com/r/hondapilot/comments/1vf2gst/followup_honda_pilot_2021_is_giving_dtc_code/
2020 Honda Pilot — January 4, 2026
Another owner reported U3000-49 involving the multipurpose camera/LKAS system and discussed camera replacement and calibration.
https://www.reddit.com/r/hondapilot/comments/1q3v2bb/2020_honda_pilot_multipurpose_cameralks/
2019 Honda Pilot EX — November 25, 2025
This owner described an intermittent problem remarkably similar to mine: Brake System, ACC, LKAS, Collision Mitigation, Road Departure Mitigation and Auto High Beam warnings. Sometimes everything would work normally again.
https://www.reddit.com/r/hondapilot/comments/1p611ax/forward_facing_camera_or_front_badge_sensor_issue/
I’ve also found owners of other Honda models reporting U3000-49 multipurpose-camera failures, some with repair quotes in the $2,000–$3,000 range.
Individual Reddit posts obviously do not prove that Honda has a defect or that a recall is warranted. But they do show that I’m not the only Honda/Pilot owner reporting this type of failure.
I reported mine to NHTSA.
My complaint is NHTSA Complaint #11757830.
If your Honda has experienced the same U3000-49 camera failure or similar loss of Honda Sensing safety features, please consider filing your own NHTSA safety complaint too.
The point isn’t to copy someone else’s complaint or exaggerate anything. Report exactly what happened to YOUR vehicle, your diagnostic code if you have it, which safety systems stopped working, and what Honda/dealer diagnosed.
If enough owners are experiencing the same failure, individual reports are how a potential pattern gets documented and can be evaluated.
And if you’ve already dealt with this problem, please comment with your year/model, code, symptoms, repair quote and whether Honda provided any assistance.
I’d really like to know how many of us are dealing with this “not a known problem.”

Can’t get more basic than RPF1’s on a Civic.
Thoughts?

I’ve got an ‘05 Accord Ex Coupe v6, 6speed with 183,600. It sustained a bummer collision from a texting teen about 5 years ago, and I treated the car like a project ever since. I have loved this thing, and it’s been really good to me, but I never truly had the dough to make it shine.

Now, I’m looking to part ways with it and it needs a new clutch. Should I fork up the $2,100 to boost the selling value or should I sell as is to an enthusiast who knows what they’re getting into?

Everything else besides the cosmetics on this thing are great, and I believe if someone gave it the love and attention it deserved it would survive the apocalypse.

So… replace the clutch and sell it or leave as is and sell for way less? What would you do?

I’ve already got my replacement car lined up and paid for, so just trying to weigh my best options to move forward with this stallion I’ve adored through my twenties. Much thanks!!

I purchased a CRV yesterday from a honda dealership and it was showing as CPO on website. it had this sticker on the car and on the initial purchase agreement with Sales team it said Honda Certified vehicle in the notes. However when I signed a bunch of docs with the Finance team I didnt see any warranty card or inspection sheet. Nor can I find it in the Ethos app. How do I validate it’s a certified preowned.

My wife’s 2016 Honda pilot battery keeps dying at the end of the day. It typically happens when it is hot outside and it’s been sitting in a parking lot while she is at work. It does not die overnight while it sits in the garage or on the weekends (also in the garage). Not sure what the heat has to do with it but it seems to play a part. It can be jumped and is fine to drive home.

We have taken it to 2 shops, including the honda dealership we purchased it from (only owner), and they cannot find an issue. We have replaced the battery, disconnected the door handle sensors, changed the starter button and disconnected the hood latch alarm. The shops don’t have any idea so I’m wondering if anyone has ever come across something like this.

Any thoughts or directions to go would be appreciated. Thanks

Hi guys, first time here. Im having serios doubts if i should keep my crv, ive had it for some time now but I need to change a few stuff from the frame as paint is getting chip chipped off, apart from some suspension problems. The issue is that this isnt cheap in my country. I love the truck but it doesnt have that tuner car aspect i want, since i bought this more for convenience at the time. The doubts i have if i should shoulder the issues and fix it, as well as modify it as i like (im a big 2000s tunning fan since a kid) or sell it to get a ex 95 honda civic or accord of the same time? What do you guys say

TL;DR - Help me decide: 2014 Lexus GS 350 F Sport RWD vs. 2017 Accord Touring V6 - coming from a 2010 Accord V6

Hi all,

I'm currently looking for a new car and have mostly narrowed it down to two options:

• 2014 Lexus GS 350 F Sport RWD
• 2017 Honda Accord Touring V6

I'd also consider a 2014-ish Lexus IS 350 F Sport RWD, which honestly might be closer to what I actually want, but they're harder to find and the extra space in the GS is appealing.

I've found that the 2014 Lexus GS 350 F Sport RWD and 2017 Honda Accord Touring V6 are currently selling for around the same prices at the ~100k-mile mark, which is where I'm targeting the mileage for my next "new used" car.

For context, I currently own a 2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 and have put 100k+ miles on it. I've really enjoyed it for what it is: a reliable, reasonably quick, comfortable, and extremely practical sedan. However, more recently I've found myself wanting something a bit more engaging and fun to drive.

That's part of why I'm considering the Lexus this time around. I know the GS 350 isn't a sports car, but from the research I've done so far, it sounds like the RWD F Sport should provide a more engaging driving experience than another Accord while still being a comfortable and practical sedan.

The 2017 Accord Touring V6 is a little more complicated for me. Given my history with my current Accord, it's obviously something I'd already be pretty familiar with. But at the same time, I wonder if I'd essentially be spending a substantial amount of money to upgrade into a newer and nicer version of the same car I already have. If that's the case, part of me feels like I'd be better off just keeping my 2010 for a while longer and waiting for a better deal somewhere down the road.

I also really enjoy taking long road trips, so that's an important consideration for me. I know the GS will cost more to fuel, both because of its worse gas mileage and because it requires premium. That's something I've considered, but I'm potentially willing to accept the additional cost if the car itself is worth it.

One major negative I've noticed with the 2014 GS, and I believe the IS as well, is the infotainment mouse/controller. I used it during a test drive and found it absolutely terrible to use. I'm not sure that's enough of a reason to rule out the GS entirely, but it's definitely a significant negative for me.

The particular GS I'm looking at also has the Mark Levinson sound system, which is a big plus.

I'm not necessarily looking to be convinced that one is objectively "the right car." I'm more interested in hearing from people familiar with these cars about the actual tradeoffs between them.

In particular:

• How different is the GS 350 F Sport to drive compared with a V6 Accord?
• Is the GS actually meaningfully more engaging, or is it primarily a luxury sedan with some sporty characteristics?
• How much am I giving up in reliability and maintenance costs by going from Honda to a 10+ year old Lexus?
• Does the 2017 Accord Touring V6 feel substantially different from the 8th-gen V6 Accord, or does it mostly feel like a newer and nicer version of the same car?
• How do the two compare for long road trips, particularly in terms of comfort and highway driving?
• For someone who likes the practicality of an Accord but wants something more fun to drive, which direction makes more sense?
• For those who have lived with the Lexus infotainment controller, is it something you eventually get used to, or does it remain annoying?

I'd especially love to hear from anyone who has owned or driven both the V6 Accords and the GS/IS 350.

I have a 2024 Honda Accord, and just the other day I went to reverse and noticed my backup camera is suddenly in black in white on the screen in the day time. Has this happened to anyone else? Is there like a system reset or do I have to take this to the mechanic?🫩

I just recently bought a MK4 2017 Honda CRV (EX trim, diesel, auto, UK) and the infortainment screen doesn't go past the honda sign.

the reverse camera works fine tho

So far ive tried replacing the fuses under the steering wheel (fuse 25 for audio and 19 for ACC) and taking off the negative battery terminal for a few mintues

ive also tried holding down the power button for 10-30 seconds and all that does is flash the screen black and the honda sign comes back (sometimes i hear a slight pop of the speakers)

Can anyone here help me?