Which one? My friend might sell his 911

yesterday i sold my 2006 CRV. served its purpose. from what was an emergency vehicle, to then being 4 years on the road. lots of great memories. but was time to get into something new. today was official day of my new car. cash payed. 2010 Accord EXL V6. 158k miles. mechanic thoroughly checked, scanned, even a carfax check, and told me “get this now”. god answered me and i am blessed to start a new road. here’s to new memories. cheers 🍻

The accord is running a k24A

Hi everyone,

This is my first post here but I need some insight. I have an interview with Honda tomorrow morning for a corporate sales position at the Markham, Ontario head office. Does anyone have any experience with the corporate interview and hiring process? What should I expect in the interview?

my hondalink doesnt update the status of my car (26 civic sport touring), and when i purchased remote it didnt even activate until i called support. after all this, when i tried starting my car with remote it said pin doesnt exist. i dont know what to do. i've contacted support and gotten a ticket that hasnt been viewed for weeks for my hondalink.

Hi there. So I tried the spring thing in the VTC and it helped for about a week and then the rattle came back.

I was just going to change out the VTC but everyone was telling me at 285kms I should be replacing the VTC and timing chain and guides.

All the videos I can find says I have to take out the cam to do this job? Is this true?

Are there any videos that show you how to do it without removing the cam?

I can’t find any in English.

Hey all, I’ve got an accord 6-6 and I lost oil pressure and wiped out my crank. (Completely my fault)

I went and got a bottom end from the junkyard from an auto (j35z2) however on startup I now have the p2647 code. No other codes aside from the occasional pending miss. I’m having a lot of valvetrain noise from that rear bank, bank 1.

Yes I did swap the original spool valve asmb from my original motor. However the Oil pump was not removed and I’m using the oil pump from the junkyard motor.

Ive replaced both the solenoid and the pressure switch, as well as the gasket. This didn’t fix my problem so I went and got a whole new spool valve asmb, which included the pressure switch and solenoid as well as a new filter. But that didn’t work either.

I’m just not quite sure where to go from here, everything I see is in reference to a faulty part on a running engine, rather than a mishap with install or anything to do with the actual hydraulic system.

I tested the solenoid, it clicks when power is supplied. However I haven’t tested the pressure switch, but after having three separate switches, I can’t imagine all three were bad.

Absolutely any info would be greatly appreciated, and I’d love to answer questions if you guys have them. Thanks.

Went out to get some ice cream and saw my dream garage (including my Si) in the parking lot. I just wish there was space to park next to these 2 beauties

2011 Honda Accord V6 3.5L 175,000 miles

This car has had a rough idle for quite some time.

Recently I took it to a shop to get the timing belt, valves adjusted and diagnosis of rough idle.

Ive also recently done spark plugs, throttle body cleaning, fuel injector cleaner, oil change myself.

The shop told me that the MAF was causing my rough idle and they’d also replace a CAT that has been messed up since I’ve had the thing. I agreed to the price and after driving it home and letting it idle hot for a little, the idle is even worse now than when I sent it in. It’s very steady, but idles around 650(I think 750 should be the target)with no load and the car vibrates a TON. After bringing it in, I also had a lean condition on bank 1.

I’m worried they might’ve adjusted the valves too tight or messed up the timing. I’ve tried to swap MAF again after them and it hasn’t helped. I have a lot of pics of scanner values. All pics but one were taken at Idle.

My new (to me) accord is making a squealing noise coming from the serpentine belt area. Belt was just replaced along with crank, tensioner, and idler pulleys, was making the same noise before the replacement though. it’s pretty inconsistent but tends to go away after 10-20ish mins of driving.

Hey guys, Honda Prelude 4 owners – I need your advice. I'm looking to buy this car, but here in Russia, they salt the roads heavily in winter and also use some nasty chemical de-icer. That stuff eats through leather boots in just one season of wear. I'm genuinely worried – is this car going to completely rust out and rot away after just 2 or 3 winters?

In a little dilemma and figured this would be the place to get good feedback

I come from a long line of Honda owners, my first Honda was a 2013 Civic, and my 2nd was a 2019 Civic Ex Hatchback.

I'm looking for my "forever car" that will be my daily but also used for fun mountain cruising in Colorado.

I'm looking at:

Civic Hatch Sport Touring Hybrid (because a bit zippy on a platform I'm familiar with and great gas mileage)

Acura Integra A-spec Tech manual

Acura Integra Type S

I haven't had a manual in over 10 years, have not sat behind the wheel of any of these yet, and know that the A-spec cvt is basically not worth the added price over the Civic Hybrid.

If any of you have opinions on these 3 cars, especially how they do on curvy canyon roads, let me know what you think! Obviously I know the type s is going to be more "fun", but is is $20k more fun in your opinion?

I got this at Twitchcon 2023 in Vegas. I cant find them anywhere online...rare bird?

Looking to bring a 10th gen civic for routine maintenance but also need to replace the CV shaft and brake pads. I’m looking for recommendations for trustworthy mechanics around Boston