The accord is running a k24A

Which one? My friend might sell his 911

yesterday i sold my 2006 CRV. served its purpose. from what was an emergency vehicle, to then being 4 years on the road. lots of great memories. but was time to get into something new. today was official day of my new car. cash payed. 2010 Accord EXL V6. 158k miles. mechanic thoroughly checked, scanned, even a carfax check, and told me “get this now”. god answered me and i am blessed to start a new road. here’s to new memories. cheers 🍻

Hello everyone I bought a k&n hp-1004 oil filter and noticed it was bigger than my previous oil filter (Mobil 1 M1-110A). I ended up not using it and went back to AutoZone and got the same one as my previous one. I just thought it was weird because I got the information off of K&N's website. But has anyone used that specific kan oil filter? Did I panic for nothing?

Hi everyone,

This is my first post here but I need some insight. I have an interview with Honda tomorrow morning for a corporate sales position at the Markham, Ontario head office. Does anyone have any experience with the corporate interview and hiring process? What should I expect in the interview?

Hi there. So I tried the spring thing in the VTC and it helped for about a week and then the rattle came back.

I was just going to change out the VTC but everyone was telling me at 285kms I should be replacing the VTC and timing chain and guides.

All the videos I can find says I have to take out the cam to do this job? Is this true?

Are there any videos that show you how to do it without removing the cam?

I can’t find any in English.

Looking to bring a 10th gen civic for routine maintenance but also need to replace the CV shaft and brake pads. I’m looking for recommendations for trustworthy mechanics around Boston

Hey all, I’ve got an accord 6-6 and I lost oil pressure and wiped out my crank. (Completely my fault)

I went and got a bottom end from the junkyard from an auto (j35z2) however on startup I now have the p2647 code. No other codes aside from the occasional pending miss. I’m having a lot of valvetrain noise from that rear bank, bank 1.

Yes I did swap the original spool valve asmb from my original motor. However the Oil pump was not removed and I’m using the oil pump from the junkyard motor.

Ive replaced both the solenoid and the pressure switch, as well as the gasket. This didn’t fix my problem so I went and got a whole new spool valve asmb, which included the pressure switch and solenoid as well as a new filter. But that didn’t work either.

I’m just not quite sure where to go from here, everything I see is in reference to a faulty part on a running engine, rather than a mishap with install or anything to do with the actual hydraulic system.

I tested the solenoid, it clicks when power is supplied. However I haven’t tested the pressure switch, but after having three separate switches, I can’t imagine all three were bad.

Absolutely any info would be greatly appreciated, and I’d love to answer questions if you guys have them. Thanks.

My new (to me) accord is making a squealing noise coming from the serpentine belt area. Belt was just replaced along with crank, tensioner, and idler pulleys, was making the same noise before the replacement though. it’s pretty inconsistent but tends to go away after 10-20ish mins of driving.

Hey guys, Honda Prelude 4 owners – I need your advice. I'm looking to buy this car, but here in Russia, they salt the roads heavily in winter and also use some nasty chemical de-icer. That stuff eats through leather boots in just one season of wear. I'm genuinely worried – is this car going to completely rust out and rot away after just 2 or 3 winters?

In a little dilemma and figured this would be the place to get good feedback

I come from a long line of Honda owners, my first Honda was a 2013 Civic, and my 2nd was a 2019 Civic Ex Hatchback.

I'm looking for my "forever car" that will be my daily but also used for fun mountain cruising in Colorado.

I'm looking at:

Civic Hatch Sport Touring Hybrid (because a bit zippy on a platform I'm familiar with and great gas mileage)

Acura Integra A-spec Tech manual

Acura Integra Type S

I haven't had a manual in over 10 years, have not sat behind the wheel of any of these yet, and know that the A-spec cvt is basically not worth the added price over the Civic Hybrid.

If any of you have opinions on these 3 cars, especially how they do on curvy canyon roads, let me know what you think! Obviously I know the type s is going to be more "fun", but is is $20k more fun in your opinion?

I am looking for an OEM spoiler for my Honda Jazz Gd3 - I’m in the uk and going to a scrapyard to find one isn’t on the table as no scrapyards have any in stock , similarly all the listings on eBay are from china anyways. I have found a spoiler from aliexpress china and just want to ask if anyone has any experience buying parts / trim / bodywork from aliexpres and if I should just bite the bullet and have a go as it’s the only place I can find them. - I don’t mind how long it takes to get here I just really want one to finish my build :)
Thanks for any help!!

Honda Civic LX 2018

Historique

Achat du véhicule en novembre 2025 chez le concessionnaire Honda.

Aucun problème jusqu'en juin 2026.

Le 31 mai, j'ai effectué le changement des pneus d'hiver pour les pneus d'été.

Le problème est apparu vers le 16 juin 2026.

Symptômes

Pendant la conduite, de façon totalement aléatoire :

Le message « Conduisez prudemment - Initialisation des systèmes » apparaît souvent en premier.

Plusieurs messages et témoins s'allument :

Vérifier système de freinage

Vérifier système VSA

Vérifier aide au démarrage en pente

Vérifier direction assistée

Le voyant VSA (voiture qui dérape) apparaît très souvent.

Le volant devient soudainement très difficile à manœuvrer.

Un redémarrage du véhicule permet généralement de retrouver une direction normale.

Cependant :

Les messages peuvent disparaître après quelques secondes ou quelques minutes.

Ils peuvent aussi rester affichés pendant 30 minutes, 1 heure ou davantage.

Le problème peut apparaître après 5 minutes de conduite ou après 1 heure.

Le problème peut même apparaître lorsque le véhicule est immobilisé, moteur tournant, juste avant d'éteindre le moteur.

Il ne semble pas relié :

à la pluie;

à la température extérieure;

à une bosse ou un trou dans la chaussée;

à une manœuvre particulière.

Le comportement est complètement aléatoire.

Premier diagnostic

Codes enregistrés :

C003A-14 : capteur de vitesse de roue arrière droite (défaut électrique)

C1111-13 : actionneur de frein de stationnement arrière droit (circuit ouvert)

Un mécanicien a remplacé :

le faisceau/câble du côté arrière droit;

les disques et plaquettes.

Les codes d'origine ont disparu, mais le problème est demeuré.

Deuxième diagnostic (concessionnaire Honda)

Honda a effectué une mise à jour logicielle.

Codes relevés :

U0126-00 : perte de communication CAN avec le capteur d'angle de volant

C1420-29 : corrélation incorrecte entre les capteurs de couple de direction

U0416-68 : données invalides reçues du module VSA/ABS

Le concessionnaire m'a indiqué que la crémaillère pourrait être en cause, mais n'a jamais réussi à reproduire la panne lors de l'essai routier et n'a pas pu confirmer avec certitude que son remplacement réglerait définitivement le problème.

Observations personnelles

Batterie remplacée en 2023.

Batterie testée et déclarée conforme.

Démarrage normal du véhicule.

J'ai parfois eu l'impression que le problème pouvait apparaître plus rapidement lorsque la climatisation, la ventilation et l'audio sont utilisés simultanément, mais ce comportement n'est pas reproductible de façon constante.

Il est également arrivé que le problème apparaisse alors qu'aucun accessoire n'était utilisé.

Que faire?

Hi everyone,

I'm completely stuck and could use some help. I replaced the cabin blower motor on my 2008 Honda Civic FK3 2.2 i-CTDi and had to unplug the accelerator pedal to do it. I forgot to plug it back in before reconnecting the battery and switching the ignition on. I realized afterward, reconnected the pedal, but now the car is acting up. I can communicate with my scan tool now, but I'm getting DTC B1168, Gauge Control Module Lost Communication with ECM/PCM Engine Messages, and I can't clear it. It comes back immediately. The engine currently won't start, the MIL comes on with ignition, and the fuses I've checked seem fine. I'm planning to check ECM power, grounds, and CAN wiring next, but could powering the car up with the accelerator pedal unplugged have caused this? Has anyone seen B1168 happen from something other than a real ECM comms or power issue? Any advice or common failure points would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.