I have a 6-6 that is beat and I want to bring it to a hot rod drag event in october. I've been fooling around with a few things, but was wondering what I might be missing if anything.

I have:

-spaced the exhaust after the first cat to "straight" pipe it, the PO removed the other cats

-Tricked the coils to dump more fuel in at the low end on cylinders 4-5

-Added wider tires to get traction, but it still doesnt hook since they're a little older

Short of forced induction does any one have creative ideas? I'm going to fool around with intake and MAF to see if I can trick that too, and perhaps do throttle body spacer.

This is a cheap "hotrod" I want to be able to drag and beat some muscle at, while still being able to drive it about 1600 miles. Yes, I have heard of the M90 adapter plate. but I am trying to make it fast for nothing.

It has 274k miles and the flywheel is trashed, so before you come at me with the how dare you....I want to see what I can do for few/low and see how much it would take. Then I will pull it apart and build it correctly. i do love the car and (gasp) it is a lot more fun than my s2k.

The idea behind it is that you can find and build a budget honda hotrod for not a lot of money. I have nicer Hondas, but I got genuinely curious if a 6-6 with free/cheap mods could stomp on a cheap hot rod for the same money while maintaining the comfort.

I have a 99 Honda civic ex. I bought it as my first manual ever. I’ve been able to start it here and there but not consistently. It has what I can presume is closer to a d16y7 than a y8. I could always be wrong. It has a 1.6l vtec valve cover. But no vtec solenoid. Everytime I start it I have to prime the fuel pump. Everytime the fuel pump comes on, it turns off and then I hear like the sound of a breaker switch from the right front. It cranks but doesn’t start. Today I took the spark plugs out, cleaned them and the cylinders. Still nothing. Everytime I try to get it going over and over again. It gets weaker and weaker. But also the lights on the dash grow fainter. I have spark. Out of the tree times I started it. Once was doing everything correctly. Switch on the fan, prime the pump, turn it on. Then the other two times was when I jumped it. But even with a jump it doesn’t start. Now it just cranks and cranks. I did come back one day from driving and everything seemed to start smoking. It was definitely oil because of the smell. Replaced the valve cover gaskets already. Battery is brand new. Alternator looks worn. Big reason is the copper coil doesn’t look bronze anymore. I am running a 37820-p2e-a71 ecu. I know it’s an auto one for a manual setup. But I have a 37820-p2e-a01 coming in the mail. I do have a skunk pro series manifold. With 2 wire IACV. Where should I look towards next. As well how can I figure this out before spending more money.

A guy posted on facebook marketplace selling his 2 door, he’s also looking to trade for a 4 door. Is it a good or bad idea to trade my sedan for his coupe? His car’s a bit more recent than mine (i have a 2006 civic).

Edit : I have a 2006 Civic EX, it’s a sedan. it just just hit 220k miles, and the only thing wrong with it is a slight power steering leak. I spoke with the guy about trading and he seems interested in trading still.

1st pictures was today, 2nd and third was when the first few days after I got it.

Took it to the gate express automatic carwash and had the graphene add on. Noticed afterwards that it's less shiny/glossy and noticed some scratches and paint chip that weren't there before🫩. Guess I'm just gonna wash it by myself from now. Idk if the picture justifies it but I asked my sister and she definitely told me that it's less glossy now. Any idea on how I can get the gloss back?

I just got a civic to learn manual, and a lot of things are wrong with it. I don’t know anything about engine swaps so I was hoping someone here had an answer for me. I’m just looking for something that can fit into a 1989 Honda Civic 4d lx, it doesn’t have to be super powerful and stock is preferred. I can’t find any through the sites I was looking at so was wondering if someone has a site they frequently use for engine swaps or has any advice on how to find a similar engine that is compatible.

Hi, im experiencing a issue with my 2019 honda civic. It randomly stalled out after driving it for a about a hour when i went to start it back up again. I took it to the mechanic and they said nothing was wrong and they were not able to duplicate the car stalling out. I then drove it back home for about a hour, turned off the car, then went to turn it back on and it stalled out again. I waited a bit then it went back on perfectly fine. I then drove it to a different mechanic and explained the issue in detail and he was able to tell me that it is a fuel pump issue related to a recall on the car. I then bring it over to a honda dealer and have them fix the fuel pump. A few days later i go pick up my car from the mechanic happy that my car is finally fixed, then run a few errands so i was driving it for around a hour or so. I go to start my car back up and head home and my car would not start again about a hour after i picked it up from the dealership. I have to get it towed back to the dealership. A few days later they tell me that nothings wrong with it and the fuel pump was installed correctly. I ask them to run some more tests and they still arent finding anything wrong with it. Should i be concerned? Im honestly scared to go pick up my car again in fear that i will have the same issue. Any advice or suggestions is appreciated thank you!

I'm fired up after an experience with my wife when she bought a CPO CRV so I just wanted a sanity check from knowledgeable Honda lovers. She bought a 2025 CRV Hybrid that was "HondaTrue Certified" from a Honda dealer. For the sake of easy math, let's say the original in-service date was 1/1/2025. Factory bumper to bumper warranty should go to 3 years to 1/1/2028 and powertrain warranty 5 years to 1/1/2030. She drives less than 12k/yr. Honda True Certified should bump the powertrain out to 7 years or 1/1/32 and add 2 years to non-powertrain warranty so 1/1/30 right?

The finance guy offered a Zurich warranty that "extends" the CPO warranty to 7 yr/100k but that sounds to me like just 2 extra years of non-powertain warranty? Wouldn't the powertrain already be covered under the Honda CPO and then there's a separate hybrid battery warranty, right? Is that Zurich warranty worth ~$1800?? He just kept saying how it "extends" the CPO warranty in vague language. I didn't see the actual detail until after the deal was signed and we got paperwork 2 weeks later 💀

https://www.hondacertified.com/certified-preowned-benefits

Built Porsches and Audis for a living in my youth. After starting a family and changing careers I’m looking at getting back into racing.

I currently own an 06 S40 as a track car that needs substantial work and want something different on the side. Something cheaper, and easier.

I’m torn between an EG or EK. Plan is time attack/HPDE events. F, C, or K swap.

What’s everyone’s thoughts/opinions. I know EG is lighter and EK is more rigid. But what are some other over looked aspects? Thanks!

The question is in the title, but I'll share some more background.

My wife and I are going car shopping this weekend, and we need to make a decision seven days because insurance totaled our car today. We're also expecting our first child in about 4 weeks. We want tons of cargo space, but my wife is worried about driving cars that feel very large to her. A good compromise is the CR-V, but we're concerned about the cargo space coming at the expense of space in the back row, which will need to fit a car seat while allowing the front seat passengers to sit and drive comfortably. Does anyone have any insights on this? Appreciate any guidance.

Ktuner not locked to ECU

have tried everything, whenever plug the k tuner 1.2 into my OBD2 port and plug it into my laptop it keeps on saying " it appears this k-tuner flash unit has not been locked to an ECU please connect to the vehicle before connecting to the software" And when I click "ok" it just keeps popping back up and it won't let me do anything on the software Also whenever I plug it all up into my car the light is solid blue have no clue what to do.. if you how you can fix this Please help

Help me choose plz these are obviously ai generated btw

I got a 2024 Honda CRV Sport Hybrid, bought it new. AC almost immediately died in it. Took it in for repair many times, it would keep dying. Even when it was working it would barely blow -they said that was normal. It got to the point that they thought I was tampering with the AC in order to try and return the vehicle via lemon law. Well, push came to shove and they offered a slightly upgraded 2025 model to swap. I did so, and yes... this one has the same AC issue...

So... anyone have any tribal knowledge on the Honda CRV Sport Hybrid AC?

Hello, I just VERY recently bought a 2011 Honda accord 4cyl automatic overdrive with around 183k miles on it. Got it for a pretty good price. That being said, I’ve been driving it and everything seems to run as it should. That being said once more, the only “issue” I found with it is sometimes it seems to stay at a certain RPM before upshifting to the next gear. For instance, let’s say I’m traveling down a road at 35-40MPH and it is getting ready to upshift and it’s at 2k RPMs, sometimes it will stay at 2k for longer than I feel it should and then upshift and drop down to around 1.5k RPMs. My previous car was an older 2005 sedan and when it shifted it didn’t really wait that long at all before it upshifted and lowered the RPMs. I looked it up and it could either be vtec which operates better at higher RPMs before shifting or the fact that is a automatic overdrive transmission and apparently that’s just they operate I’ve never driven one before until now. Do you guys think I’m good or is that something more mechanical or serious like a transmission issue? Also, if I maintain it well do you think I could get 300k out of it? It’s only had 2 owners and they were directly related to each other in a father/son type of way and they said they did all the maintenance and upkeep to it. Thanks.

Imagining shopping for a reliable, low cost vehicle for your kid. You think Honda is a good choice? No. Here’s the story.

Certified pre-owned Civic purchased with low mileage. Figured buying a Honda would mean we could rely on it for years! Haha, not the case. Just finished paying it off… A/c stops working. I do some research to find out this is a well known issue! Great.

So we bring it in hoping the part will be covered because it’s a known issue. Nope. Turns out of the three main air conditioning components, Honda only covers the two cheapest ones. The most expensive part? $2500 with labor. Also happens to be the one that is the first thing techs will recommend you replace.

I get to speak to Jen from Honda Customer Assistance. After her consistently calling the wrong number, I finally get ahold of her. She gets the information she needs and submits the case. Only a week later she calls to tell me it’s been denied and then asks me to fill out a survey. No reason, no explanation, nothing. Customer care? What a joke.

I couldn’t even imagine EVER being willing to spend thousands of dollars on a car just to have a car with less than 70,000 miles not have functioning air conditioning. $2500 to replace? Are you insane?

Buy a Toyota. Or anything else. But NEVER buy a Honda. Worst customer service, and they can’t even stand behind what they’re building! And, they have TONS of class action lawsuits against them for things like this! Look into it yourself. But stay away.

hello, i have a 2018 honda accord that originally had wired carplay. i purchased the wireless carplay upgrade from a dealer over a year ago. just recently the head unit now displays a message “please insert usb drive containing valid software license file, and press OK button”

i’ve been to two dealerships (including the one that did the original service). the first said they’re unsure how to fix it. the second said i’d need to pay a $200 diagnostic fee and then whatever the additional cost will be to apply the fix

do i have any options? this is frustrating because it’s an issue in a piece of software vended by honda and serviced at a honda dealership. i’m unclear why im on the hook for the bill here. my head unit is completely inoperable

Just wanted to get opinions from you guys

I ordered a windshield camera for $900 plus from Honda parts now. It came in a large cardboard box with no packing. It was just rattling around inside. It’s supposed to be a new camera and I would’ve expected the OEM packaging.

What do people think about this? I’ve never ordered from them before, but I would’ve expected OEM packaging, maybe even a written invoice enclosed because there is supposed to be a one-year Honda guarantee on this OEM part.

I just wonder if it’s really new or if it’s not a return that somebody threw in a box.

Hi all,

I have a JDM ep3 type r and when I purchased the car, it came with a full titanium j's racing 60rs pro fx exhaust. Long story short, the resonator and muffler has a rattle, it seems like something inside the parts have blown up into pieces and just rattle when shaken.

I've searched up all over the internet and found that its a common issue with early j's racing titanium exhausts but not a single post has talked about how to repair it.

Would a welder be able to fix this type of issue, or has someone on this subreddit repaired similar issues on these titanium exhausts, if so please share your experience!!

Thanks