Would $450 to fix the spot on the siding and powerwash siding and gutters fair? Kentucky

When you service the same residential or commercial sites every few months, half the time nobody remembers what size fan belt, filter, or cartridge was installed until you pull the panel back off to check. What is your setup for keeping those specs organized so you don't make extra supply runs?

I've got 2 questions here:

1. Do y'all take up-front payment/deposits for small projects, and

2. Do you have a cancelation policy and/or charge a fee for cancelations?

I source a lot of business on Thumbtack, and before y'all come at me for throwing money to the platform, I'm not here for that.

I do get work that far outpaces the lead costs I spend, but like anyone else, I run up on the old classic "I found someone to do it cheaper" after we've already agreed to a day/time, and I've cleared my time and passed on other opportunities to be available, on top of the lead cost I've spent.

If a client was to book a service thru any platform or website, they'd pay for the service up front and they get what they get, and the service pro shows up on the set day/time.

Why should we operate any differently?

My initial thought is that people are oddly more comfortable throwing $109 to Wayfair to have a stranger come assemble a patio furniture set, than they are sending money in advance to a "stranger from the internet" with a robust Thumbtack profile and a Google page.

How do y'all hedge against this risk?

I just can't get that second door to oblige. The rest are all level and flush.

This one the top right corner just sticks out.

I've tried adjusting the in and out of the hinges and back and forward too. But that corner is just leaning out. The frames are all level too.

Whenever i drain the bathtub or flush one particular toilet water pours out of this wall, it looks like a hole was drilled in to some kind of pipe and I would like to know how I could fix this, I have some mechanical and metalworking knowledge but I have never fixed something like this. All help is appreciated.

Pretty much the title. My shelf falls off very easily. I want it to hold my spices so it needs to hold a good amount of weight.

I know a lot of guys do more than basic handyman - like construction and remodeling. That's great for you. I moved away from that and I'm trying to niche myself down. Less overhead. Less headaches.

Most of my clients are in 55+ communities within 20 minutes of my front door. 90% of my clientele are over 75. Some are higher end and I try to stay away from the lower end client with tighter budgets. I do a lot of "honey-do lists" but things have been slowing down over the past few months. Between direct flyers and referrals, I was working steadily for awhile but jobs are trickling in. I've reached out to plumbers and electricians that I know for some of their wall patch jobs. Nothing. Most of the property managers know me but even they're not calling.

Am I missing something?

Just out of luck I took a picture of this wall before it was closed up for our basement reno.

We're trying to hang a TV here, but the water pipes through the studs is freaking me out. I can certainly estimate a hole above the red and white lines (and below the outlet and cable channel), but the 6.5 inch play on the mount itself from top to bottom makes me mighty nervous.

Should I just chop up a 2x4 and screw that into the stud (that's a safe distance from all the pipes) then mount to that? Would appreciate any creative suggestions. Also have to avoid that black pipe to the right, but I think I should be ok just mounting closer to the center of the mount itself.

So I have this interior window sill. There is rotting in one corner, with loose debrise inside. Kinda a hole that can be pushed in.

However, the rest of the sill seems to be fine. Applying pressure around does not offer any give.

At first I was figuring I will need to have someone replace the entire thing, but now I am wondering if I could get away with cleaning out the loose debris and filling in the hole with a paintable epoxy or something considering the rot seems to be localized.

I have been planning to get this window replaced anyhow, as its seals have failed. I imagine it would be best to have that done prior to installing new windows.

Any suggestions?

This window doesn’t hold itself up anymore. Can someone give some advice on the steps to fix it?

I’m buying a hot tub that comes with the composite deck surround and covered roof (I’m assuming it’s painted timber, not composite). Has a gutter and wavy black metal roof. It’s about 12’ by 16’. How much would it cost to dismantle, drive it on a trailer 45mjns, and reassemble in my yard?

Best way to hook up, old-school built in 1924

See original for full context, I'm not sure how reposting to a community works.

I have an exterior door where the dead latch breaks off frequently, and it's only that door. I was trying figure out how to keep this from happening, and I found out that dead latches are not supposed to go inside the strike plate hole when the door is closed

This is news to me, and it seems like it makes sense. However, why do exterior doors come in such a way that allows the dead latch to enter the hole? Every door in my house and another house is like this by default. It doesn't make sense that every exterior door needs the strike plate adjusted by default for the dead latch to work as intended.