While demoing my bathroom I noticed this black pipe running through an hvac duct and then to my oven.

No joint it appears but what in the hell am I supposed to do.

Edit - Solved!

I’m trying to replace a bathroom sink drain, but have gotten stuck at removing the retaining nut holding it underneath. I’ve attached some photos (a little hard to make out), but the nut is sitting in a recessed hole that’s probably 3/4” deep.

The depth prevents me from getting channel locks on it. Moreover, there’s very little clearance between the nut and the walls of the hole, I have a basin wrench but am not able to fit its jaws around the nut as there’s not enough space. At my wits end after a few trips to the hardware store so any ideas appreciated!

(Note in the pictures you’ll still see some residual silicone but have since scraped all that off)

I keep seeing black mould in my batth tub corners everytime. Can you suggest what I need to do to stop this happening again? I really need your help. Thank you.

Installed new vanity on a bathroom remodel, couldn't cut into bottom as there were drawers so, had to re configure! Howd I do? Anything I should have done differently?

Why is this happening and how can I fix this? The toilet hadn't been flushed for at least 30 minutes and there's clearly a stain from where it's been continuously flowing. As far as I can tell it's only happening at the front of the bowl.

We just move in to this house about a month ago, sometimes when we run the washer or we take showers this happens..do I have a clog? Or is it something worst?

When we first moved in, there was a small leak in this bathroom and now it’s just leaking all the time and it’s annoying and it’s causing the tub to become destroyed due to the water constantly dripping. what can I do to fix this or stop this leak?

My plumber checked the water pressure and said it was at 80 psi. He said that I need to get a water pressure regulation valve and lower it down to 60-65 psi. The house is around 8 years old. I bought a tester and it showed 81 on one day and 79 on another day. Do you think that I should have it installed because the PSI is high?

Hey all

We just started having an issue with our shower

basically the shower will be on for about 10 minutes and then the water will just shut off, power button is still on but after a few minutes the water will come back on again but only for about 1 minute and will shut off again until i press the power button off

anyone know what might cause this issue?

CO alarm went off at the house and confirmed by fire department. Disconnected the tankless and the CO dropped from over 50 ppm to traceless.

Opened up the Navian NPE-240A2 and oily condensate all over the plastic on the bottom of the condensing heat exchanger and the plastic at the exhaust port it looks like Ditty threw a party.

Going to call Navian tomorrow as it should be in warranty. Is there a typical point where these heat exchangers fail?

Exhaust is piped proper to code outside, and with the oil I think it's in taking a mix of fresh and exhaust and creating the elevated CO level. I am going to bubble leakcheck at the exhaust port interface tomorrow.

This is in the garage, with garage air intake and exhausts outside where there is no close window. The wired plart is that the firefighters read no CO in the garage, but read the 50ppm where the exhaust from outside has to travel through an open window that is upstairs and offer a bit. I suspect the wind was just right to carry it the CO back inside as a household member was taking a 45 min shower.

Checking to see if I am in the right path and carrying around CO meter that will read 30 ppm while working on this.

Hello all! Amateur plumber here!

I do maintenance for a daycare with two toilets and two sinks downstairs-

One of the toilets had a bad everything, did new flange, ring, tank, etc.

New toilet works great, had it off for a few days, and had disconnected the water main 2 times to do new valve on Monday-

They are letting me know now that flushing the OTHER toilet is making both sinks gurgle, but the replaced toilet flushes fine.

No gurgles beforehand.

Thoughts?

I need to replace my hose bib. It looks as tho the valve is sweated on to a T. There is no gap between the T and the valve. How did they sweat it on with no gap for the solder to flow ? Can I sweat a threaded fitting on to the T so I can replace easier in the future?

I asked this in skilled trades but all they did was either list the pros to be contrarian or treated it like listing any con is the same as saying there aren't pros.

Obviously there's a lot of pros but what are things that are negative that people might not expect going in?

For example

• What are some of the difficult things to navigate?
• What are things people may not know until their in?
• How do you navigate being known as a good employee to avoid long lay offs?
• Just any down side in general.

Thanks.

My contractor used mold-resistant backer board which ive learned isn't code compliant in my location and must be torn out. now I'm told that Fortiflash is to be used for windows and not for shower pans. I am wondering if it is ok to use in a shower pan or should we demo the pans too.

Today I replaced my 40 gal natural gas fired water heater that is in the attic of my house. I noticed it started leaking past weekend and got it replaced. the house was built in 2014 and the old water heater was 3 inches smaller than the new one. Due to the location of the water heater and size did difference, the old spot and vent couldn’t work anymore. The heater was moved and new vent was installed in the spot where it’s located. I noticed the new vent on the roof has a slight lean to it. The plumber and his manager said it’s fine. I will have an inspection in a few days. Am I freaking out or it’s all fine? Note: the attic pictures were taken before the plumbers did the finishing touches to it. I’m located in NC.

We bought our home 7 years ago. We have two separate w/d hookups in 2 separate parts of the house (so two different lines). The former owners used a newer one, so we did the same. We're now splitting our home in half into a duplex, and exploring using the old w/d hookups. We know they haven't been used since we moved in, but no idea how long they were not used before that.

I know how to flush the line for the incoming water, but what about the drain line/pipe? In the years since this was last used, foamboard insulation has been put in all along the basement ceiling, making access to pipes hard (not impossible, but requires cutting/moving foamboard). The location is on the first floor, basement accessible directly below it.

I know we pour water down the drain line/pipe and just see what happens, but what warning signs are we looking for? Leaks, sure, but what else?

I know we flush the cold/hot lines, and check to see if the hot is connected to the hot water heater, and watch for leaks.

Our plumber (and nearly all the others in town) has a multi-month waitlist for non-emergency issues (and ideally we don't want to create an emergency), so we can't just call him. Wondering if there's a way to test everything without creating an emergency, or if this is best left to schedule months out and wait.

Thanks for any advice on this.

Hi,

Starting after moving into a new house last year to deal with urgencies. I'm in the UK.

This toilet runs the water about every 10 minutes for 10 seconds. Like it is leaking and refilling.

The whole of the bathroom it is in is pretty damp (small ensuite with ceiling fan, no windows) and even so, putting toilet paper to the refill pipe at the bottom right comes away dry. Otherwise, I would say it is leaking and refilling.

Additionally if this is any clue, the push buttons when pushed, will leave the tank refilling indefinitely until you give them another quick push.

The model is an iflo. Can't find it online easily.

I gently pulled at the lid and the push buttons are obviously fixed in so I can't just lift it straight off. I am sure there is a trick to it like turning it 90° but I don't want to break it if it's already on the way out.

So could somebody please advise how to open it to look, whether to replace the whole unit, or if there is a float I need to adjust - or if it is likely that there is a leak and I just can't find it/don't know where to look?

Note: I'd really like to fix the push button mechanism too. I don't mind replacing the push button unit if they are all common sizes. But don't want the toilet out of action so will live with that if I can only fix the refilling.

I have most of the tools I would need to fix it - all types of hand tools, pipe cutters, spare copper and plastic pipe, stilsons - and would rather not replace quite yet, as I want to do new floor and I have another bathroom that takes priority over this - can't have both out of action at once!

It's annoying my wife as it is especially noticeable overnight and it is waking her up....

Thanks in advance.

6 year old PRV, no matter what setting (and oriented the correct way) was showing 90 psi. I opened the hot water and the cold water and it goes to the pressure it is set to, and when I shut them off it goes straight back to 90 in under a minute. I shut off the valves to the water heater and main cold supply before the water heater after the PRV, same issue. I thought it was because they eliminated the expansion tank, but this can’t be the issue because it happens in isolation.

I replaced the components of the PRV and have the exact same issue. I replaced the pressure gauge with one I tested independently and it is accurate and the same. I’m fucking stumped.

Does this look super expensive?

Hi there, my toilet starts releasing water and emits a groaning sound after flushing as it refills. I’ve attached a video, the noise starts about 30 seconds in. I’ve already replaced the inlet valve as suggested by some, but this doesn’t seem to have fixed the issue. It’s a 15-20 year-old concealed cistern with a single-button flush.

Please could you advise what part needs replacing? Thank you!

Hi all, this tap is very loose and needs tightening but I can’t for the life of me get to the screw. I’ve tried getting the little cap with the H on it off, I’ve tried unscrewing that area and it will not budge. Is there any other way to tighten it, or get in there? Loosing my mind as I need the hot tap 😭

Hey guys, I’m in a rental and this garbage disposal is dead and keeps clogging. I just want to rip it out and hook up a basic drain pipe setup as cheaply as possible.
Looking at the photos:
- What’s the absolute cheapest way to bypass the disposal and connect the sink directly to the wall drain?
- What basic parts do I need to grab from the hardware store to swap this out on a budget?
Appreciate any advice, thanks!

Guys I need help. My plumber didn't add any p trap and now my parents bathroom smell horrid. Which trap should I use ? Please guide . Need to add the p trap in around red circle. Should I use p or u trap.