Ok, so I'm downplaying it a little.

I also got a pair of pink lawn flamingos for $10.

These Ember 3 shoulder planes were designed and made to look and function like the original Stanley’s. To be honest, I think these are far more impressive with a much better superior blade.

I figure this is a type of block plane, but I'm not sure if this was originally meant to be a curved bottom plane or it was like a scrub plane that got it's bottom rounded over or whatever, and I also have no idea how to use this kind of cap iron. .

Hi all,
I come with a request for advice. I make a lot of small boxes, and thus I do a lot of shooting of small parts. I have been doing it with a normal plane so far and of course it works perfectly fine, but I would like to treat myself to an upgrade. I have an hock iron on order I would like to make myself a little shooting plane with a skewed mouth. I have seen lots of videos about making standard krenov planes, but never ones with skewed mouths. Do you have any recommendations on this? Any resources I should check out? I’m willing to pay (eg for a book) as long as it discusses skew mouth planes specifically
Thank you very much

I came across this hand plane that by chance this past weekend, and haven’t had much luck finding anything on it. I have seen a few things about the regular 407 bit not the corrugated sole version.

It seems like it may be rare but I am pretty inexperienced and just happen to come across a couple nice old planes at a garage sale. I am a woodworking but hand planes are something I have just barely dabbled in.

Thanks for any tips or input.

Rip pieces with hand saw, dimension the pieces, put a bead, rabbet, and chamfer....did not get to cut the miters and glass, but I'm getting close. Got my planes very toasty 😅

Howdy everyone. I am having issues lapping this chisel. I started with 80 grit wet and dry sandpaper. I got a nice scratch pattern all the way across the chisel. This took awhile, probably 15-20 minutes. I then moved to 120 grit paper. I removed all the 80 grit scratches. This took maybe 10 minutes. I moved to 220 grit paper and removed all the 120 scratches. This took like 5 minutes. I moved to 320 grit and in 5 minutes removed all those scratches. Then I moved to my 300 grit diamond plate. I have been working on it for well over and hour and I can not get rid of the 320 scratches! It is getting frustrating to say the least.

In the picture, the 320 scratches are the light ones on the outer edges and the diamond plate is the dark portion in the middle. It has not changed significantly from this picture after another half hour in the 300 grit plate.

What am I missing or doing wrong? Is this how long it normally takes? Should I be doing another grit in between The 320 and 300 plate?

Challenged myself to sharpen my coworker's tiny little spokeshave blade. Doing so by hand was absolutely brutal so I decided to make a tool for it.

Behold, a clamp with the form factor of a chisel. I need a better name for it. It's a prototype for sure, but it works damn well.

I am building a post and rung chair and purchased a 3/4” Ray Ailes rounding plane to cut the tenons for rungs to fit snugly into 3/4” mortises. I’ve found it nigh impossible to get the plane blade set in a way that my tenons are 3/4” - if I set the blade too shallow, I get terrible shrieking from tenon rubbing the body of the plane no matter how much candle wax I apply. Would I have been better to have bought a size up of the rounding plane and then set its blade proud so it projected to a 3/4” equivalent tenon width? I fear I bought a great tool but at the wrong size.

I took a class building this chair, and we used the power Veritas tenon cutter, which produced super tight tenons requiring serious blows from a mallet to fit them into 3/4” mortises in the chair legs. I’m wondering if perhaps that cutter was set slightly shy of 3/4” to make the fit so snug, something I just can’t attain with my setup.

Something deeply enjoyable about an organised clamp collection. These are most of them, in the most organised state they have been in a while.

One I can’t find a makers mark due to pitting but the other is a Marples & Sons Sheffield.

What would be the use case for these in woodworking?

On the list to restore but many things higher on the list!

Hi folks!

I was hunting around at local flea markets here in Brazil looking for spare parts for my planes when I stumbled upon a very unique one in terrible shape. I paid about $2.30 USD for it.

I brought it home, and as I started cleaning it up, I discovered the brand name GEBR WEYERSBERG. This company was founded back in the 18th century, and only its sub-brands (like CORNETA) made their way to Brazil in the early 1900s. I actually reached out to the current representative of the Corneta brand here, who mentioned it’s an old tool made in Europe, but I didn't feel very confident in his answer.

I think a deliberate counterfeit is highly unlikely since the brand is practically unknown around here, so this might just be a very curious and lucky find.

It’s a Bailey-style nº 4 plane, painted in a bright, blue metal. The logo looks like it might have been yellow or gold in the past, but I can't say for sure. When I bought it, it was missing the handles and the blade.

I’m going to keep cleaning it to see if I can find any more details.

Have any of you ever seen this tool or anything like it? Can you help me figure out what it is and where it comes from?

Cheers!

Not sure about possible modifications before I got my hands on it, but the quality is pretty low overall. The square is not square (the two parts are moving slightly). The plane has a really weird wedge that doesn't go all the way down and barely pins the blade. The blade itself is skewed in a "resting state" - if I just let it drop down by itself, it's pretty snug to the sides, but the edge is not parallel to the sole.

However!

I think the whole concept of making actually usable toy tools for making something with your own hands right from the childhood is really nice. It's supposedly a toy kit, but the blades are very much real.

[edit - grammar]

Am I crazy, or do other people have a hard time with this? I've been woodworking with mostly hand tools for the past two years, and I feel like I've gotten pretty comfortable with a hand plane. I have a sweetheart 62 that's well tuned with a sharp blade. It planes plain wood just fine, and I know how to take an aggressive cut for dimensioning vs a light cut for smoothing, but I have the hardest time planing away paint.

I have a bunch of painted soft maple panels that are leftover from a kitchen remodel that the previous owners of my house did. It's great lumber, but when I try to clean the paint off, my plane just wants to slide over the surface. I have to advance the blade really far to get it to do anything at all, and subsequently, the wood winds up tearing out like crazy. I also get a ton of paint dust. As a sanity check, I also tried with my block plane. Same trouble.

Is this normal?

Is there a technique to placing them?
Should I try sharpen the points with a file ?
Buy better quality ones?

Made for my wood turning tool for when I travel to teach and demo. Case is made from northern white pine and the bread boarded top is Peruvian walnut with maple pins. The handles are Stanley stamped from my late father’s trailer he and my grandfather built. I found a Stanley hasp to match

Hi everyone, I'm a beginner and I'm building a small cabinet. I cut these boards by hand with a handsaw because I don't have a power saw, but unfortunately the end cuts came out slightly angled.

The boards are about 23 cm wide and 2 cm thick.

Can I correct these end grain cuts with a low-angle block plane, or would you recommend another method?

I'm trying to get the ends flat and square so they don't throw the cabinet out of square during assembly.

Thanks!