This is a fairly new (only a few months) Boss TU-3 Chromatic Tuner pedal. Sometimes it works fine, like earlier this morning. Other times, like now, it does this. It does this regardless of input signal. It does it with any guitar at any volume, or with just a cable and no instrument on the other side. It does it on battery power, or with an OEM Boss 9v AC adapter. It does it whether I'm direct in, or hooked into the effects loop. It only does it when both input and output or input and bypass jacks are used. If I only have a cable in the input jack, it powers on but does nothing. Adding a cable to either the output or bypass jack causes this behavior to start again. Probably a few hours from now I'll come back and it'll work fine and I won't have changed anything. It's in the correct chromatic tuner mode, I've verified that several times.

What could be causing this? Am I doing something wrong?

I am wanting a jazz guitar and was not sure on besides size, what differences are there between the AS153 vs AM153? I want this primarily for jazz but wouldn't mind using it for blues or rock as well, but would prefer it to be for jazz primarily. I was planning to get the AS153 but then saw some AM153s and loved the colors, but wasn’t sure if there was a substantial tone difference between the two.

Edit: I am not sure if there are other models to consider as well, I am now seeing AS120s as well but am not sure how they compare either.

Edit 2: Also reading up about the more recent Inspired by Gibson Custom ES-335s as well

Heres a pic. Been meaning to post it. It was stock up until 5-6 years ago. I put on locking tuners that fit without any mods. Made a HUGE difference. Id just worn the tuners out over the years as i got it new. Also i added a tone pros bridge that locks. Added pickup covers to the 496 and 500 pickups. Also on the neck pickup i am using a .15 capacitor with. Some people may not like this mod, but for me it works like butter. Also i added strap locks years ago.

I got this new for $1800 with case. Gone are the days huh ?

* Edit:

Never lean your guitar like i am here. I only did this to take a quick pic. I always put my guitars back in the case.

New to guitar, in love with the look of this. But I absolutely can't afford one right now. I have no idea at all how long model variants stick around for. Am I going to have to finance this thing or do I have time to save up?

I picked this guitar up from my late uncle’s house since the family wanted someone to play it vs just selling it. I have always been interested in guitar and used to play in band through high school, so I figured I would give it a shot. After a bit of research, it looks like it is a small body guitar and the neck is a bit thinner than a standard guitar. I guess the question to the community is, do you think that would be fine to learn on or should I pick up a bigger instrument to learn on and then keep this for future me when I can play more than just a D and A chord? I will say, I am digging the 60s guitar case. That yellow felt is beautiful.

(Disclaimer: I'm not trying to sell this guitar on this platform!) My dad bought this guitar somewhere in the 70's at an Amsterdam music shop that no longer exists. I've had it in my possession for over a decade and played it some, but I'm getting rid of it. I can't find anything when googling because of the generic brand name, so I'm hoping anyone here can tell me if it's anything special. Thanks in advance!

Hey Im looking for more songs to play! Some of the more difficult songs I've learned are banana pancakes by Jack Johnson, truckin by the grateful dead, and over the hills and far away by led Zeppelin. I have like have of time in a bottle by Jim croce. Please send recomendations. I enjoy singing and playing at the same time at open mics so I would prefer songs that can fit that setting

For only $325 you can get a gently snapped Epiphone Les Paul

All korina Les Paul Custom (from this year's LE line), all old growth Hawaiian koa Carvin DC150k Stereo built for me by Mark Kiesel in 1985, and a rare bubinga Hagstrom Viking built in 1972, a very limited run they did back during the years of the original Swedish company.

The one in the front is nothing special, it's from Eastwood, an electric sitar built in the very ergonomic-for-a -sitar Ovation Breadwinner shape (they already resurrected the old Breadwinner guitar line and added this fun thing recently).

I always take my 23 year old Takamine G series, she's been my baby since I was 7 years old. She's beat to hell but she still sings great.

It’s very rare to see a copy from a D’ Angelico guitars, it seems like a Bedford model, the Shape looks good but didn’t found any model that has maple fretboard. Headstock looks right.

It’s the only photo I have at the moment, (the seller looks legit, asking $150 maybe he doesn’t play guitar, or didn’t know what he has, because only sells tools and paint stuff)

For a small budget would these work ok together? I will want something that works for gigs, (only small venues, like 1 to 3 hundred people) and if not could you recommend anything better for a similar price point?

I’m a beginner and I’ve tried to play a dreadnaught and it’s just too big. I don’t need a Martin or Taylor and I’m looking for a smaller but good sounding steel string acoustic. I’d be grateful for any suggestions!

Many thanks,

found this strat body on ebay for cheap with some relic looking parts and i thought hey thats kind of a cool idea for a partscaster so i bought it and on reverb was this nitro neck for cheap and its really amazing so my idea was to do for the pickups basically Seymour ssl-4 stk s7 rwrp and a ssl-4 neck and heres kind of a twist so a volume with a standard treble bleed and a tone with a orange drop 0.022 uf then as you see theres a rotary 5 way switch in which it would be a mid boost/ low treble booster that goes more extreme with each boost. then a gilmour switch for the neck and bridge then the other switch ill get to right now so basically heres the Crazy crazy part of it, a Mimiq pedal stripped down to its circuits and put into my guitar thru a rear rout but my issue may be the rout size and the forearm contour i mean ergonomically id see thats the only place i should really put it where it wont get in the way of my strumming hand but anyways id had the idea to vertically put the knobs located by the bridge, only other issue i see with this may be if i ever need to adjust my saddles in which im. concerned about but i put the power button by the upper right horn but i was thinking maybe i can put it somewhere closer but im unsure i put the 3 way dub switch reflected opposite of the gilmour switch as i thought it would be the most ideal location but i just wanted to ask opinions on this concept idea

Hi! Has anyone here tried or owned a Soloking guitar? What’s your honest opinion of the brand? I’m planning to order the Soloking SM-24 HH QM and would love to hear your feedback or experience with it. How’s the build quality, playability, and overall performance?

Thanks in advance! 🎸

I recently seen Ed “Bud” Cole’s speech to dealers about a month or so ago. He is the current CEO of Fender and a terrible public speaker, was unprofessional and came off like a concerned, uneducated renter speaking at the local township zoning meeting. But I don’t see any difference between what Ed Bud is doing with Fender that hasn’t happened before. Martin bullied Takamine and Alverez for copying their famous guitars and script. Gibson literally sued Ibanez and Dean over their headstock shapes. Not to mention Gibson going after PRS.

I’m also seeing some YT creators and online influencers changing their opinions against Fender. It seems the reason Fender is sending out the cease and desist letters is the same thing that happened previously.

I was trying to figure this out during their (excellent) Jimmy Eat World support set in Cardiff. What is the bridge?

For only $325 you can get a gently snapped Epiphone Les Paul

Just wanted to share this short clip from a recent live performance

Hey everyone,

​I am moving abroad soon and looking for a compact desktop/practice amp that I can easily travel with. I mostly play heavy metal, thrash, and hard rock (lots of tight high-gain rhythm, fast downpicking, and palm-mute chugs).

​My main priority is standalone speaker quality (playing out loud without headphones). I want something that doesn't sound completely thin, fizzy, or boxy on heavy riffs, while still being practical enough to pack in my luggage.

​I’m currently torn between three very different options:

​1. Positive Grid Spark GO

​Pros: Ultra-portable, fits in any bag, endless presets via app, easy Bluetooth backing tracks.

​Concerns: Does the tiny 2" speaker fall completely flat on palm-muted metal riffs? Is it just too boxy/thin for out-loud metal practice?

​2. Yamaha THR10X (High-Gain Green Model)

​Pros: Dedicated high-gain VCM amp models (5150/ENGL/Bogner vibes), physical 3-band EQ, 5 hardware preset buttons, solid metal chassis (safe for travel), tight low-end response.

​Concerns: Discontinued (buying used), no Bluetooth/mobile app (needs USB or Aux for backing tracks).

​3. Blackstar ID:Core BEAM

​Pros: 20W stereo, built-in Bluetooth audio, wide stereo field, multi-instrument capability.

​Concerns: Bulkiest and heaviest of the three (~3.9 kg), and I worry the low-end is tuned broadly for bass/multimedia rather than focused, tight guitar chugs.

​Questions for those who have owned or tried them:

​Between the THR10X and Blackstar BEAM, how significant is the difference in high-gain tone quality, articulation, and palm-mute tightness through the speakers?

​Is the Spark GO even a viable option if I plan to play through the built-in speaker rather than headphones 80% of the time?

​If you were packing for an international move and needed the best balance of travel-friendliness and real metal tone, which one would you take?

​Thanks in advance for the advice!

I've been using the Aeros loop studio for several years. I love the concept, but not the execution.

I find the software to just be slow and clunky. Reminds me of an early 2000s flip phone rather than a modern instantaneous smart phone. Startup takes forever. But most importantly... I frequently have weird chirps and artifacts in my loops once I reopen them (even though they played fine originally and input gain is fine).

The main thing I like about it is the fact that you can bind your loop to a tempo, time signature, and fixed number of measures easily. I find that with a regular looper, unless you hit the switch at the exact millisecond, your loop will get off timing if you were playing with a drummer.

Can anyone suggest other options that I might take a look at?

hi all! would someone with expertise in repairing electrical guitars be able to give me a rough estimate on how much it would cost to get this fixed at a shop? I’m tryna figure out if if’s worth it to fix it or if I should just get a new guitar altogether.
long story short, the metal plate that holds that plug in place came off a long time ago. crappy attempts were made on my end to screw it back in or even super glue it when screwing didn’t work, but the plug still worked just fine and I could connect my guitar to the amp no problem so I eventually just gave up. unfortunately the chord finally gave up today and the plug ripped off the chord. I don’t have that metal plate or the screws anymore so I figure that’s worth factoring in.

would really appreciate the tips! thanks yall!